mort stoll
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Everything posted by mort stoll
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Hi Gil, I used Micro-Glaze on my Mamoli Connie and had no problems with it. I just followed the directions on the container and all went well. Mort
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I used simple black thread to serve my lines, right from the thread counter. Nothing fancy, just simple thread. Mort
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Well done my friend, very very well done. Mort
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Hi Stergios, I used all of the ropes included within the kit. I kept the rope as tight as I could just by keeping it hand tight as I served the ropes. you will see it is easy. Hope this helps, Mort
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I have always wanted installed belaying pins - glued to the pin rails - before the standing rigging is installed. The entire area is exposed and for me it is easier to install. When the time comes I prefer to belay the rigging line to a secure belaying pin as opposed to a loose one. I put a pin in each hole. If I have any pins that do not have lines belayed to them I usually wrap coils around them. A ship I feel would had extra coils close on hand for emergencies. Keep up the great work. Your build is great. Mort
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I used basically the same thread as Jason and I used Elmer's School Glue. Worked out very well. Mort
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Hi Jason, Hobbymill is a great source for your wood. Just an FYI if you should need any in the future. They supplied me with wood for my Rattlesnake and it was great. I have maple on order from him for my Diana. Mort
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Yes I did. Mort
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I used a double block. Mort
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Thanks. Mort
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Thank you, it really does look great. Mort
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Hi Ray, Great job as always. Been meaning to ask did you use the kits wood to plank your hull? It looks really great in the pictures. Thanks, Mort
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Sorry I forgot to add that I think I would have used the kit supplied dowels were I to have not painted the masts and yards. Mort
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I painted my masts ochre and the yards black. I think if I were to do it again I might paint the mast bands black instead of the ochre for a bit of contrast but this was not a fancy boat. She was a working "girl". Mort
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welcome back. You were missed. Mort
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We have all been there. I have many many times more then I want to admit, but the bottom line is that I am much happier with the redos than the initial do. Your build is great. I enjoy it very much. Keep up the nice work, Mort
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Hi Kevin, No, I was just curious. Everything looks great. Thanks, Mort
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I voted foe an American 74. Mort
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Hi Kevin What size line did you use for your cannon breaching cables? Thanks, Mort
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My pleasure my friend.
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Hi Stergios, There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will. Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor" Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models" Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War" Take your time and enjoy the rigging process. I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful. Mort
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I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them. On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail - the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts. I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays. There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time. The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down. Hope this helps, Mort
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