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mort stoll
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Everything posted by mort stoll
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It still looks great. Most of the planks are covered in plating and the ship is going to be painted. Keep up the great work. Mort
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If it were me I would match the hull to the instruction book and the plans you intend to use to build the ship. Make sure both the plans and the instructions match. Hope this helps, Mort
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I assume you made all of the furniture in the Captain's cabin yourself. It looks great as does the rest of the model.
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Very sorry to hear that. I look forward to your new log. Main thing is that the model is still an undamaged work of art.
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Mark, Am very sorry to hear that. I've been following since the beginning of the build and always look forward to your posts. I'll be praying for you. Mort
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Hi everyone, Have just mounted the rudder. I used dome headed pins to simulate the rivets and added a rudder coat as per Longridge. I used .50 tan thread for the rope line to the mizzenmast channel. I couldn’t organize the stopper knot properly so I fastened the rope to a medium cleat. Happy Thanksgiving to all. Stay safe and well, Mort
- 60 replies
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Yes I believe they curve upwards slightly. Could you make a copy of the plans and rubber cement the strip of the gun ports to the hull where they should be and then cut the ports out? Hope this helps. Keep up the great work.
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Hi Paul, Amati and Mantua on the CMB site have heart and violin blocks. A few years ago I bought bullseyes from Model Shipways. Hope this helps.
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This diagram is on page 121 in “the Anatomy Of Nelson’s Ships”. Hope this helps’ Keep up the great work.
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Thanks Ian. That,or .75 was what I was thinking.
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Perfect. thank you. What size rope did you use?
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Hi Paul, I've a question concerning an earlier post, #89 on 11-19-20. Where does the rope between the rudder chain and the mizzen channel lead to, and what size rope did you use? Thanks and keep up the great work, Mort
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Hi Ted, Where did you get the netting for your hammock cranes? It looks great. Thanks, Mort
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I followed the "Hull Construction Manual" which I supplemented by following various other Victory builds - paulb, Robert29, Charter33, Gil Middleton, Heinz746. You're off to a great start. Mort
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Yes David, That's how the ports are constructed and how the lids are installed on my Victory and it worked out fine. Mort
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Quick update. I’ve completed and mounted the channels, their dead eyes, gunport lids and just finished installing the cannons with tampons. I made my own lids as I wanted the hull planking to be visible along with the lids interior planking. I used #28 wire for the second ring on the lids and as PaulB did I used 2 eye bolts and a piece of wire to mimic the latch on the lids inner side. Stay safe and well, Mort
- 60 replies
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I would send Caldercraft an email. Keep up the great work, Mort
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I've always used either Elmers Wood Filler or Water Putty, and then I sand the hull in order to smooth it out. Mort
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I would contact Model Shipways. I wouldn't be surprised if they replaced the subpar fittings. Mort
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When I dry fitted my bulworks they were not the proper height. I had to trim the lower edge of my inner bulwork in order for the guns to be properly aligned. I believe I had to trim 3-4 mm from the lower edge. Mort
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I had to add a another gun port to both the lower and middle gun deck at the bow. Count the gun ports on the template and the plans, sheets #2 and #5. Plans show 16 ports, templates only have 15 cut out. Mort
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Finally completed the stern and quarter galleries. Definitely for me the most difficult part of the build so far. It was difficult to shape those baluster patterns and the decorative brass strips. I still have to varnish the stern and quarter galleries. I also just finished the side entry port and steps. I added rope lines to the steps even though the kit doesn’t show them as I couldn’t imagine those older admirals being able to climb those steps without them, Stay safe and well, Mort
- 60 replies
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PS Keep up the great work.
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