captgino

I used a few times a CA debonder to remove some parts,just in case if you used CA and have to remove those bulkheads.

 

Zoltan

 

image.jpeg

Never used this. But I will definitely add to the shopping card. Does it work on any CA or just the CA for the same brand?

If you used wood glue, just use water and/or alcohol to soak the joint, and it will soften the glue and you can pull them out, then you just need to file/sand either the false keel, or the notch in the bulkhead a bit at a time until they drop down to where they are flush at the top.  That will be a lot easier than trying to sand and shim both top and bottom, and I'm not sure how that would come out to be honest.

 

If you do decide to shim the bottom, the basswood supplied for the decking is the perfect width, and will bend nicely around the curve of the bulkheads.  If you look at my AVS build log index you should be able to find the spot where I showed shimming the bottom of some bulkheads, but that was after getting the tops even.  

 

The alignment of these bulkheads is really one of, if not the most important parts of the build, since everything you do from here on out relies on how these are all aligned.  It's worth the time to unglue them and get them right.  All of the bulkheads should align as close to perfectly as possible with the false keel at the tops.

 

Good luck!

 

Edit: It also looks like you will probably need to shim the next bulkhead forward along the bottom, as the gap between the bottom of the bulkhead and the top of the keel appears too large.  The gap should be just wide enough to accept the planking (the basswood first layer plus the walnut layer) into it.  This also is the width that should define your rabbet thickness where the planks come in near vertical to the keel.

 

Edit 2: It also looks like your first bulkhead forward of the mast slot is not at a 90 degree angle to the keel.  You can probably fix that with reinforcement blocks between the bulkheads like I did on mine, but if you do that you'll probably want to put them in from one end or the other all the way through so that the tension from the block on that bulkhead isn't being solely supported by the next bulkhead without any other support.  Hopefully that makes sense - I documented that pretty well in my build log, and there should be an index link in the first post to get you pretty close to it in the log.

Thanks Brian!

These are some great advises!!Thankfully,  I did not use CA but Wood glue. That said,  Titebond II is a pretty solid glue so ...I am hoping get the 3-4 bulkheads detached without any damages.

I also reviewed your build on a computer this time and saw what you were referring to about fillers and rabbet. I will very likely rework some of that as well. Thank you so much for the great pictures.

It is so difficult when doing your first true ship with bulkheads to understand these initial and critical steps based on the directions and the plans. I am so thankful for this site and its members' experience and kindness to get me some assistance.

It looks like you are correct. I have a few of them higher than the other ones. It looks like I'm going to have to sand them down and add some fillers.

How do I know which angle I need to try to reproduce on the bulkhead? Should I look at the figure on the sheet number 2?

Bulkheads on.

Hi Brian,

There is a few sections where my rabbet might be a little too deep. Overall, I think as you mentioned i should be able with fillers to get the planking in a nice and proper angle.

Worked on the rabbet and bearding line

Beautiful work as always!!

I will be watching your build with attention.

JP

Excellent work, Congratulations

 

I am done !! long hours involved , a lot of learning lesson, mistakes along the way but a lot of fun building with ship. It is a bittersweet feeling to be done.

Below is their version versus my take on it. Ready for my next build

Thanks Elijah!

I am very excited to complete this built. I am getting eager to focus my attention on my  AVS.

Almost there!

Last night, I was able to finish the jibs and achieve a good look with the furling. I am pretty pleased with it.

A few more lines and it is a wrap. I could have added more details but with the lack of historical information and poor planning on my part it is too late.

Again this a 'training' ship for me to test and learn about ship modelling.

Beautiful work!

small update. Worked on boon this evening. Great to work on her again.

Nicely done Ulises!!

A nice steady pace . I am looking forward to your next post.

MAGNIFIQUE!!!

Beautiful ship, you have done an amazing work on it. I love the authentic, worn look you gave her.

Well Done Frank!

Foresail furling and setup on the fore mast.

Wow!

You did an amazing work on the standing rigging. I cannot wait to see the next 'chapter' with all the intricate running rigging. 

Small update. I have been extremely busy at work.

Hopefully, it is the weekend and I might some time to work in the shipyard.

Wow, awesome ship! Congratulations for completing this build, you have done a outstanding job!

Hi Joe,

Thank you for the kind comments. I am happy to hear that the information I posted was useful to you.

You are doing a fantastic job on your build. Looking forward to make postings!

Meanwhile, I will continue furling away...

Yay!! Some cutting and building in progress

Looking forward to your next post...

Thanks Elijah!
There is no sail attached to the bottom spar in this type of ship. That been said, all other sails will be furled.
I am unfortunately more and more unhappy about my ratlines.I used the rigging supplies from the kit and they are horrible. All the additional work on the sails is highlighting the mediocrity of the ratlines implementation.
Taking them down and redo that would be a major project and I am not sure it is possible physically and mentally (sort of speak)

JP

Continued the sail Furling production.

Awesome! A big milestone has been reached.