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Jack12477
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Everything posted by Jack12477
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Looking good Jay. Two things you might consider to hold your work, first is the rubber honeycomb shelf liners, they're easy to cut, about 1/8 inch thick available in most kitchen gadget stores and some grocery stores (at least here in the states) and the second (which I prefer) is a bench hook like the one in my post # 12 above - last 3 photos. It's a piece of 1/2 inch cabinet grade birch plywood about 12 inches square. Not the notch cut in the back piece and the short block on the left, these allow you to angle the piece and the opening between the block on left and back panel allows the shavings to be cleared out easily. You can make the bench hook any size you want - I have several in various sizes for woodcarving, general woodworking and model ship building. I use both; I put the shelving liner under the bench hook - protects the "furniture" and keeps the hook from moving around. No clamps needed. Of course the bath mat works also. -
Guidance, Encouragement, or just a Sanity Check
Jack12477 replied to RFP's topic in Wood ship model kits
I agree with everyone ! Go for it ! I'm 75 now but did build the Morgan a few years back for a friend. It's a challenge but looking at your Constitution model you are definitely up to the challenge. Open a build log so we can all follow along. -
I also have their chisels and the full set of miniature planes and they are excellent - also have the Kell chisel guide from Garrett Wade and use it a lot on my smaller chisels.
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Don't understand the observation ! I am right-handed and the way the knives are depicted in Ken's photo is the way I lay my knives down with the blade pointing away from my hand. A leftie would presumably point the blades to the right away from his/her left hand. When you reach for the knife you don't want to accidentally grab the sharp blade with your hand or worse stab yourself in the hand reaching for the knife..
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Ken, check HIPEXEC's build starting around here He did some really nice cloth hammocks.
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Came out really nice, Ryland.
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Michael, would this Citrus based (CitrisStrip Stripping Gel) paint & varnish remover work for you? We've been using it to remove paint and varnish from a 104 year old bronze end cap from an ice boat we are restoring.
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- albertic
- ocean liner
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Pulling up a chair also Mike. This is great !
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Dockyard is gone but I understand that Ramelson picked up their micro chisels line - See Woodcraft catalog - the Ramelson chisels look an awful lot like the Dockyard ones. Also The Woodcraft Shop in Iowa still has Dockyard chisels in stock (till they run out)
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Beautiful little boys, Ken; enjoy Grandpa duties.
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Word of caution with blades that have two cutting edges : One carving technique is to use the thumb of the opposing hand to help "power" the blade along; most carvers who use this technique place their thumb on the back edge (spline) of the blade. Double edged blades can result in some very severe cuts - doesn't take a lot of force to cut yourself with these carving blades. I know - had a few accidents myself. So be careful.
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Ken, nice looking knife - hope they told you it is a chip carving knife. It'll work for what you're doing but just be careful. Good luck and welcome to carving 101
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Frank, thanks for the answer. I'm really enjoying your build.
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Frank, I notice you are using a milling machine to mill your jigs in Corian. For those of us not fortunate enough to own a mill, do you have any suggestions on how we can duplicate your fine jigs? Will a Dremel with its router attachment and a straight edge guide achieve the same results? Thanks.
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It's called a Bench Hook here in the States. I have several of them all of different dimensions. I have one for carving, one to hold the sharpening stone, and several miniature ones. They come in handy even if you have a standard workbench. An example of one of mine is shown in the last 3 photos of this post in the Woodcarving Group Project.
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No, never seen it in Lowes or Home Depot. I get it from my local woodworking shop, Warren Cutlery, in Red Hook. A full roll is about $60 but he sells it by the foot also, ($2.50/ft) so I get a linear foot at a time of each grit (120, 240, 320, 400). A foot section lasts me over a year, sometimes 2 years, before I need to resupply. Try a local woodworking shop near you, Mark.
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I finished sanding mine off with 400 grit dry paper. Then soaked them in isopropyl for a couple of hours, and like Chuck said, they just floated free from the base. The smallest one suffered some damage but the piece can be glued back when needed. Likewise one of the crown's suffered a small break and curled on one leg of the "R". After photographing them I put them in a safe container for later. I still have a 2nd set which I will save for a later time. Here's my results:
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Nice carving Toni. Like the gold leave effect also.
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When I was doing plastic model building, I took a 1/4 thick piece of birch plywood cut to about 18" x 24", lined the bottom (table side) with peel and stick felt to protect the dining table, tacked 1/2 sq rails around 3 sides and used that as a work surface. Those self-healing green mats in JoAnn's or Michaels work well also. The nice thing about the plywood work surface was that it was portable.
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I find that if I strop my #11 blades I can keep the sharp edge longer. As too re-sharpening, haven't tried to.
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Welcome to the carving project, Ryland. Good to see in the shop again.
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Not sure if I want to take any more off of these without damaging them. Altho under macro photography they do seem to show knife marks still. Used sanding sticks and my 400 grit sanding "cloth" . Seems my camera is better at magnification than my headpiece. 400 grit sanding cloth - made by Mirka called Abranet. comes in grits from 80-600. Mesh material, never clogs, just tap on hard surface to clear sawdust (or use a toothbrush). - last almost forever. I have pieces I've used for almost a year without wearing it out. Has Velcro like "fuzzy" on backside so it attaches to Velcro sanders. Comes in 4 1/2 inch wide rolls, but I just buy a linear foot at a time for my uses.
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In addition to what Gaetan and Joe recommend let me add a good ceramic stone, usually white in color, roughly 1200-1500 grit. Do not need lubricate, sharpen dry, clean with Comet type powder cleanser and toothbrush when they get really dirty (actually it's metal deposited on the surface) - they do not clog like other stone and put a nice edge on any knife or chisel. Use them all the time on my carving knives.
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Very nice Toni. Welcome to the group.
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