Jack12477

Yes, That's about what I paid back when.

Marc, you can get the PC program and related supplies that Denis is talking about here at DecalGear You can also get the decal paper at Hobby Lobby as well as the Decal Bonder. I used this on my Marie Jeanne to create the ship's name and ID plus the Coat of Arms decal for the sail.

Welcome back Glenn, your weekly posts have been missed. Beautiful work on the roof, chimneys, pawls and window glazing.

Yea, I can attest to that. I have a AL Morgan Whale boat that I built some 20-25 years ago. All the harpoons, cutting knives, oar locks are made from some type of soft white metal (probably lead based bismuth or something) - all have become brittle, cracked and broke under their own weight. I've tried gluing them together with CA but another section will break off in time.

Thanks for the explanation, Russ

Short Update: After struggling with the white metal casting turnbuckles provided in the kit and busting thru one of them I was left with one usable turnbuckle of two, so I had to improvise. Making shackles at this size is not fun. First tried 26 GA black wire, then 24 GA silver wire, while both were probably within correct scale neither of them could hold up under tension, so I switched to 20 GA (or maybe it's 22 GA - the paper label fell off and got lost). The next struggle was with the "scale chains". Yikes ! They gave me three different sizes of scale chain to use to attach the bowsprit to the hull. "3/8" = 1' 0" scale model: Chain links per inch: 5/8" = 16, 1/2" = 20, 3/8" = 25" The 5/8" scale chain is usable; the 1/2 " barely usable, only 26 GA wire can pass thru the links; none of my jump rings are made from small enough diameter wire to pass thru. The 3/8" is totally unusable IMO. Not even 26 GA wire nor Chuck's smallest rope will pass thru a link. I'm all for scale appearance but when the actual item becomes so small it is unusable why bother including it. The plan directions are strange also. In the detail view of the bowsprit tip it says "port view" and shows the mid-size chaining running along the port side and rope running along the starboard side back to a point just under the wales, but in another top view it shows just the opposite - port and starboard are reversed. Oh well ! I went with the detail view. Of course the way the parts are, there is no way to tension the chains properly (reason why I tore thru one of the turnbuckles - pulled the O-ring thru the hole). So the main chain droops a wee bit. Here's photos of the progress. My attempts at making shackles: No jig was used. Done free hand. Eye-balling it. The improvised solution: The black wire attached to the upper bow chain is temporary - it's holding the chain up until the mast is installed and the forestay is rigged thru the bowsprit and connected to the chain.

Caution Ken, since MSW is hosted in the US not UK it's the US Copyright Law that governs what can be placed on this site. And, yes, it is a minefield.

Ken, you could try directing your question to the US Copyright Office for clarificantion their website is https://www.copyright.gov/help/ I think what you are planning to do, if I understand you correctly, is allowed under the US Copyright Fair Use Law but check with them for clarification.

Nah it's still within my range of focus - yards aren't a problem.

Or be like me and just remove the regular glasses entirely and hold the object closer.

Nigel, the way I thin the gesso is to pour some onto a pallet (I use the plastic ones from Michaels that have dimples like a deviled egg platter), dip the brush in water and swirl the brush in the gesso to thin (repeat as needed till you get the consistency you want) - don't get it real watery. You want some thickness to it. It will raise the wood grain slightly - but okay - lightly sand with 400 grit when it dries - leave dry overnight for best results.

Hi, Nigel, nice work on the model. I use gesso on my boat hulls (Marie Jeanne and Willie Bennett) to seal the wood before painting. Works fine for me. Thin it down a bit with water first. Try it on some pieces of scarp first before committing it to your model.

Hmm, can barely read the etching on the glass "The Famous Grouse" <???> - Hmm, must be a new Dutch solvent for washing off potato chips/crisps Yes, Carl, the swing is most relaxing

Hi Carl, just found this build. Hanging the hammock chair to a sky hook in back row. Ken, that amber liquid is antifreeze!

Thanks, Russ, Denis, Mark for the compliments and all who clicked the Like button. Decided to hang the dredges off the side of the boat at the stern. Hung the push boat from the stern davit but left the ropes long and loose in case I need to remove the pusher from its davit during later construction. For now the ropes are wound around the cleat with friction holding them fast. Some progress pictures.

I too have enjoyed your carvings. That is a fine set of carving tools you have.

Small Update: I finished the winch and A-frame; wound the cable around the winch's two drums, then attached the pieces to the deck with medium CA (gap filling). Used a drop of CA to hold the ends of the cable so I could wind them onto the drum, then another drop to hold the end of the wrap in place so it would not keep unwinding on me. To attach the cable to the dredges I used 2 mm jewelry crimps to crimp the cable into a loop around the eyelet on each dredge, For now the dredges are just placed on the stern deck until I decide how I want them to be permanently - on deck or lashed to side. Photos follow: Comments, critiques, suggestions always welcome.

Carl, it is 7.9 mm

Denis, Carl, Mark, the welder's apprentice thanks you for your compliments. And also all who visited and clicked the Like button.

Happy New Year everyone. I hope everyone has a happy, healthy and prosperous 2017. Been distracted from the build with other interests, like ice boats, but I did manage to finally get the brass pieces soldered and painted. I definitely need more practice at soldering. Photos of the progress so far are shown below: Next challenge is getting the wire for the dredges wound around the winch drums in a realistic looking manner - so far that has been more a challenge than expected. But we will persevere.

Aperature and F/stop are synonymous terms for the same thing; as is the terms ISO and ASA . It's not so much the camera is dumbed down as much as it has taken over control from the photographer and made the photographer the dummy . Somewhere on your camera is a dial with settings for different shooting modes or styles, example P, TV, AV, M and icons for Portrait, Scenery, Movies, etc; usually on the top of the camera. On this dial Look for P for Program mode, AV for Aperature priority mode or TV for shutter priority mdoe (takes it off of AUTO mode); these settings will allow you to manipulate the other settings via the display screen on back - not sure which camera you have so you may need to hunt around or dig out the manual. Set the camera to AV. AV will allow you to set the camera at an specific Aperature and the camera will then choose the shutter speed depending on light level. (TV allows you to choose a specific shutter speed, e.g. 1/500, and the camera will choose the aperature. When you select AV there should be a dial on the camera back that changes the aperature setting (pop-up window). You can also adjust the sensitivity (i.e ISO) settings to allow it to work in lower light levels. The higher the number the smaller the lens opening, lower the number the bigger the lens opening (i.e diameter). There is also a setting for daylight and tungsten light source which affects the color of the picture. If Mike is coming to your shop soon, have him walk you thru your camera's settings. Most of the P&S digital cameras can be "smart" cameras also. I have the Canon PowerShot SX130 as well as a Pentax DSLR. Reminder - when done shooting photos of your model, return the camera to AUTO mode for any family stuff you want to shoot.

Chuck. if your point and shoot camera has a optical zoom, try backing away from the model and use the zoom to fill the picture frame. Use the smallest f/stop (i.e aperature for example 8 or 16) to keep you depth of field. Use a tripod or solid surface to support the camera. I have the same problem with the macro focus on my point & shoot. Beautiful model !

Professor, try Barnes and Noble http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/model-building-with-brass-kenneth-c-foran/1107898888?ean=9780764340048 That's where I got my copy.

Count me in also, Dave

Very nicely done, Jay. And a Merry Christmas to you also.