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Jack12477

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  1. Jack12477
    You can still use the old fashion method, I discovered the new method while doing plastic armor models. Now I use it all the time.
  2. Jack12477
    You need to coat the sail area where the decal will go with Gloss coat first. Then apply decal.
  3. Jack12477
    Marc, the answer is YES with a caveat. Decals adhere best when applied to a glossy surface, but they can be applied directly to painted wood or any painted surface. There is a set of products produced by Microscale Industries which are recommended for all decal work. The products are Micro Gloss - clear glossy finish for models Micro Flat - clear flat finish for models Micro Set - Setting solution for decals, softens the decal so it adheres to uneven surfaces better, Also used to remove decals Micro Sol - Setting solution for decals - similar to Micro Set but not used to remove them. The way I use them is to prepare the surface with Micro Gloss and let dry; apply the decal, using Micro Sol to get it to "snuggle down". Then let decal dry. After that apply either Micro Gloss over the decal to seal it and give it a shiny finish or apply Micro Flat to seal and give it a dull/flat finish. You can also spray the decal with Testors Dulcote spray but keep the spray at a distance from the decal. I've even applied decals to cloth sails, Marc, see my Marie Jeanne for an example. Most Hobby stores carry it. MicroMark may also carry it altho I have not checked their catalog lately to see, since I have a local source.
  4. Jack12477
    Shep Paine wrote a number of books on detailing models and building dioramas. While primarily aimed at the plastic modeler, specifically armor, his techniques are applicable to all forms of modeling. Kalmbach Publishing carries a lot of his books, they also publish Finescale Modeler magazine, mostly plastic, but the articles on weathering apply to wood as well. Used them as a reference myself for years and still do.
  5. Jack12477
    Hello Rob, just checking in to see how your model is coming along.
  6. Jack12477
    WOW ! Does that ever look real! Fantastic job, Ken!
  7. Jack12477
    According to the packaging Sculpey (I spelled it wrong above) is baked in oven. Can't remember the brand name I used prior to Sculpey but it did not need to be baked; just air dried. I have not used Playdough so can't comment on that one. You could also use blocks of balsa wood covered in fabric. I think if you wander around a Michaels or Hobby Lobby (or the Canadian equivalent) you should be able to find a suitable clay at a cheap price - maybe an artist supply store (as in Fine Art artist) altho they tend to be pricey (at least down here they are). Another source would be fabric (as in sewing) remnants cut into narrow strips then folded over many times, tied into bundles with Chuck's scale rope and glued with the 50-50 mixture. Another technique I use, mostly in my woodcarving pieces, is to collect dead twig size branches that fall off your trees in your yard. The can be split into quarters so they look like split fire wood and stacked. Most of the ones I use are about the diameter of my pinky finger. Leave the bark on them. A sharp stiff Xacto blade will split them easily. Glad I could help.
  8. Jack12477
    You can simulate bags of grain or bales of cotton using a modelers clay, such as Sculptey brand, shape it by hand to the size and shape desired, then wrap it in tissue, such as Kleenex brand, or gauze, such as Band-Aid brand. Use a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water with 1-2 drops of dish detergent (again "wet" water) to set the tissue/gauze in place. The tissue will give a finer weave while the gauze will give it a more coarse weave similar to burlap. Once set it can be brush or spray painted and weather to get the appearance desired. A trip to your local pharmacy will get you a good supply at a reasonably cheap price. For this purpose I'd use the "no-name" brands. I used this technique to make simulated folded tarps, sacks and other "bundles" for my 1:35 scale armor vehicles.
  9. Jack12477
    There are two reproduction Fokker DR I aircraft in the collection of the Olde Rhinebeck Aerodrome in Rhinebeck NY (USA). The first was built by founder Cole Palen in 1967 and was flown in their Sunday airshow (May-Oct) for 20 every weekend for 20 years before being retired. The 2nd DR I was built by Hank Palmer and Louis Wilgus (well-known restorers of early aircraft) in Florida; Cole Palen purchased this 2nd aircraft in 1987 and flew it from Florida to NY. Cole Palen's DR I http://oldrhinebeck.org/fokker-dr-1-triplane-2/ Cole's 2nd DR I http://oldrhinebeck.org/fokker-dr-1-triplane-3/ Olde Rhinebeck Aerodrome website http://oldrhinebeck.org/collection/world-war-1-aircraft/
  10. Jack12477
    Here's a technique you can try - one I used to use on my N-scale RR structures - make a jar of "wet" water (i.e 8 oz of tap water with 1-2 drops of liquid dish detergent added, example, Dawn brand) - paint a scrap of the wood you are using for the model the same color as the model - let dry a day or two. Using a paint brush apply some pastel dust to an area, move it around with the brush till you get it where you want it, then using an eyedropper take some "wet" water and drop a few drops onto the dust, let it run down the wood. When satisfied, stop. Let dry completely, then spray with an artist quality fixative (acrylic usually) to set it permanently. It will look like rain over time has washed, streaked and/or faded the wood. The water will flow more naturally than you can do painting it on. You only need a drop or two of wet water - don't get too heavy handed with it. It's called "wet" water because the detergent breaks down the surface tension of the water molecules and allows the water to flow more freely and evenly. You can also do this to a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water plus a couple drops of detergent.
  11. Jack12477
    You could also stop by a good art store (as in artist supply) and pick up some pastel chalk in various tones. You can apply with Q-tip as above or scrape them with a razor blade to create a fine dust - then using a clean dry artist paint brush apply them when you want. The chalk dust gives it a nice texture as well as color.
  12. Jack12477
    WOW ! Very nice, Ken. Those fire extinguishers look real. Actually everything is excellent. Beautiful model
  13. Jack12477
    PM is Personal Message - click on the user's avatar or screen name it will open a dialog box for that user's profile - in the center of the top line is a label "send me a message" Click on that to send that user a PM. I believe Canute is located near Ashville. Contact him via PM.
  14. Jack12477
    Thanks, Carl, always good to have an extra pair of eyes looking at something. The 2nd drawing (photo 2 above) had me confused; couldn't tell if it was 90 degrees to the plane or not. Easily fixed - see photos below. Re-checked the plans and the chain plates do go over the wales (or bend as they call it) on this model. Jack iron - redone Chain plate drawings:
  15. Jack12477
    Since the east coast is experiencing a Nor'easter all day today, I decided to spend some time in the shipyard. <our area is getting mostly rain today; overnight we had about 3 inches of snow/sleet, temps are hovering around 35 F all day >. Worked on getting the chain plates made, and the dead-eyes hooked up. Not to keen on MS' dead-eye metal strops tho, the bottom of the strop band is too flimsy and doesn't want to hold well in the chain plate . Ended up using a drop of medium CA to ensure they would stay installed in the chain plate loop. Plans called for a "jack iron" - weird looking loop - wasn't too hard to shape and solder. I've been accumulating a bunch of jewelry making small pliers with various "pointed round tip" that have come in quite handy for this kind of bending. Photos below: Jack Iron <as shown on plans> and my interpretation of it. Chain plates and dead-eyes: Before creating the loop in the flat piece of bar stock, I took a small file and thin the width down a bit on each edge; then bent it around into a loop. The holes were drilled by hand without my Wecheer micro drill tool; it actually went faster and easier than with the power tool.
  16. Jack12477
    Denis, now you know fancy rope is never in the plans It's just something sailors do when they are bored
  17. Jack12477
    Very nice. I like the weathering effect, very well done and very realistic.
  18. Jack12477
    Could it be related to the marksmanship of the ship's gunners ? You know if you put enough lead into the air you are bound to hit something sometime. :D That's how the US Navy's new Phalanx system works against incoming missiles.
  19. Jack12477
    Looking nice, Marcus.
  20. Jack12477
    Thanks everyone for the comments and likes. A small bit of progress on the main mast and boom. I decided to leave a small personal touch on the boom, some fancy rope, which all sailors seem to enjoy creating. I'll leave it to all of you to find and identify it. I left the "tails" on the blocks until I determine what other things need to attach to the block. Then I'll clip them off flush to the block(s). Soldering is still a major challenge for me. I used Minwax Ipswich Pine to stain the mast and boom then gave it two coats of Minwax Gloss Poly spray to seal it.
  21. Jack12477
    Looks nice Mark.
  22. Jack12477
    Hmm. something is wrong - I can get the pop-up every time on any post in your log. You got any tech savvy friends close by who can come look at your PC. I assume you're doing this from a PC or laptop and not a Tablet or Ipad. Correct ? I'm working from a Windows laptop.
  23. Jack12477
    Rich, place the cursor directly over the #1 in your first post, then right mouse click on it without moving it. A popup window should appear with a list of actions, select the one labeled "copy link location" and left mouse click on it. That will place the link into your clipboard. Then proceed as above.
  24. Jack12477
    Rich, first go to the top of this build thread, right click on entry #1 and select "copy link location", the go to your profile and edit it as you did to create the signature. highlight the entry "USS Syren" etc in your signature, then click on the link symbol in the full editor window (center block, 2nd line to right of B I U S symbols - 3rd box over) when the window opens, select it and right click again, select Paste, the close windows. You can also at the same time select the Bold symbol to highlight it in bold face type. Hope this helps/.
  25. Jack12477
    Yes, That's about what I paid back when.

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