Jack12477

Making more progress, although it's small stuff.
 
I got the holes drilled for the eye-bolts in the cap rail, and trimmed them to size and placed them.  They are chemically blackened, so don't show up in the pictures very well at all, so I didn't bother why photo's specific to them.  I still have the eye-bolts in the outside the the hull to place, and the ones around the base of the mast.  I am going to wait on those until I have the mast made and can test fit it so that I get the bolts placed correctly rather than relying on the plan location.
 
I permanently place the eye-bolt with rings on the deck for the gun haul-in tackle.
 
I stained the cleats with red oak stain, and placed 18 of them on the bulwarks and bow cap-rail.
 
I opened up the bow-sprit opening to fit the bow-sprit, and to do that, I cut down the dowel for the bow-sprit to the proper maximum diameter where it goes through the hull.
 
I cut the hawse holes, but still need to paint them.
 

Thanks Nigel.   I'm still trying different things but repeatability is going to be the key.  Debbie and Charles are working on their solution.  
 
E&T,
Thanks for the insight.  I believe they all have their quirks being optical systems.  And that test cut idea is a great one. 

Thanks for your review, Mark. I'm lucky enough to regularly use a 60 watt Epilogue laser cutter available for use at  a local library. The unit is consistently maintained and adjusted by professionals and I still have issues with it.
 
The best advice I can give is to use a test cut or two every time you use the machine, even if you are cutting the same materials and thickness. I usually just cut a 3mm strip off the edge of the material I'm cutting, and this helps me calibrate the speed, power, and ppi.  
 
With the 60 watt machine, setting the correct speed and power is critical, and on everything I've cut, including 1/4 plywood, I've had to keep the speed and power quite low to avoid charring (10 or 20 speed, 35 - 40 power). I keep a logbook of settings for every cut I make, recording the different materials and thicknesses, and this helps me avoid too much waste. 
 
But I find the most critical step is the test cut - it's saved me a lot of ruined material. The mirrors and tubes in these machines constantly shift and degrade, and even planks from the same piece of wood have slightly different densities, so you never have the same cut twice, even with a professional quality machine.  
 
I cut some stern timbers on swiss pear last week - which reminds me that I'm behind in my posts!

I am kind of idiot, Mark, not able to remember names
 
Name is written on C-plans for literate people ...
 

 
 
I obviously need glasses
 
Or patience
 
Or geriatric spice
 

I don't know right name, Izzy
 
I think this will be sweet detail
 

I'm in!!!

An easy solution to insulating the poured concrete half wall under the windows - get a few sheets of 4 x 8 x 2inch foam insulating sheets (pink or blue) and use construction adhesive to attach it to the concrete.  The 2 inch was readily available in central KY, but here in Norfolk 1  inch seems to be it. 

I wasn't around for MSW 1 either so I will pull up a barrel and sit and watch

Good question - I've got a contractor visiting to give me an estimate. I'm just wondering can I leave the ceiling as is - for now if I get a dust collection system ? Obviously I've got a lot of expenses right now between the new house and the twins.

Yes Michael, it takes time.  It took me four months to get set up after my last move and I don't have nearly as much as you have.
 
So, Pete, Michael, SOS and all those who follow me, I have decided to build an "International Dragon Class".
 
Click on it below under current build.
 
Bob

I've been reading and re-reading those tutorials as well as the Jim Roberts' book on planking.   And I should add.. Dan's wisdom has helped immensely with this.
 
I don't have issues, at this point, with the lining and spiling, or the bending and fitting of planks.  What has been giving me fits until I started sketching out the area is where the stern ends of the planks start to come around the end of the hull to start landing on the transom.   There's a fashion piece that covers the counter and the ends of the hull planks.  After re-studying, re-thinking, the Licorne drawings just weren't detailed enough as I was cutting the fashion piece short by about 1/8" or so.  Just enough that I was seeing gaps and not a happy camper with the appearance.   I've delved into a couple of French frigate monographs and have sorted out that that the lower end of the fashion piece and plank ends are hidden by the quarter gallery drop. 
 
The solution was simple once I figured out what was needed...  
 
Now that the laser cutter is sorted out, I'm focusing on finishing up the wide planking... sanding... and hopefully pictures in a couple of days.   After this, it's the garboard strake and then lining off the rest of the hull for the narrow planking.   A bit of the pain to have several different widths of hull planking but it's sorting itself out.

Used my jig and located all the eye bolts with the rings in the bulwark and deck. I then decided to start the two long guns which I am in the middle of building before I move onto the cannonades.
 
I was not satisfied with the quality of the wheels so I turned some out of brass and while I was at it I also turned the axles as well, which are two different sizes.
Here are pictures of the axles; I use the blue marker as a reference point to turn to while in the lathe. Square stock requires a 4 jaw chuck in the lathe.

 
I then turned the handles for the quoin; this is when the Sherllne lathe tolerances are great in doing this small stuff. I started with 1/16" dowel. The wedge has a hole drilled into it to receive the pin on the handle.

Here the quoin is setting on the gun bed.

I could not resist doing a test fit into the bow gunport.

 
The cast gun barrel needed quite a bit of cleaning up before priming. Now back to finishing up the long guns.
 
 
 
 

Tom, the whole reason I mentioned anything at all was because I was under the impression you were going for the 1812 version. So then I took a look at the pics I had found someplace when browsing, and noticed the open-hatchway was indeed the way it was.
 
I wish it was my model, but sadly, no. But I do have another 6 pics of her. It is magnificent. Jim Byrnes is also building a contemporary version of the same era. I'll try and locate the site I found these at.






 
 

Now that I see more of the model I recognized it as a 1797 version built by Mark Antczak at 1:48 scale. The site is at.shipmodel.com

Oh, thanks George for the pictures. You had me second guessing myself. Especially since I glued those on last night before I saw your first reply this morning.   I really appreciate your help and for keeping me honest, so to speak.

I think you're right about that Tom. After looking at these two pics of a 72" version of the 1797 config, that's exactly what I'm seeing.

And maybe even lace curtains for the First Class cabin windows/portholes
 
Nice work Popeye !

Congratulations Mark! Your last fix made quite a difference between dropping the passes while holding the power and increasing speed. New carving looks great. Hopefully your new learning also helps Debbie and Charles.
 
Hope you can now just enjoy using your new tool!
 
Cheers!
 
Nigel.

Days?  So far, it's been two weeks.    :)   One would think that they would have all their crap in one bag, right?  I think I'm lucky.  Debbie got a turkey of a machine.  I wouldn't have tried as long as her and her husband did after the first two weeks and no progress.   Anyway... I'm going to go back to planking and figuring out how to do some things like rail carvings, watchkeeper's bench,  gun carriages, and hopefully, the ship's boats.   There's probably more but I'll have to fiddle and learn as I go.

I think.. I hope... this is final test post of this review unless I do something really stupid or find some additional info somewhere.  I'll be glad to answer any questions, however and share any knowledge I've gleaned. 
 
The lens holder did have issues.  The hole down the middle was burred badly at the top (laser light input) and off-center at the bottom (laser light output to lens) which seems to be a common problem with Chinese made machines.  There were scorch marks on the burrs and on the inside indicating that it needed to re-machined and made perfectly round.  The unit is aluminum and about 2" inches long.   Ok... aggravation time.  After a some "calm down and focus" time, I chucked it into the lathe and fired it up.  Using a boring bar, I took off about 0.010 inch of material and got the inside perfectly round from top to bottom and the top was de-burred.   The beast was then reassembled and tested.
 
I noticed that the kerf is a bit narrower and that it's cutting deeper into the wood.  For example, what took a speed of 12, power level of 9mA, and 4 passes to cut some of Jason's fine euro boxwood that 3/32" thick, I managed to get up the speed to 16, keep the power the same, and only 1 pass.   Similar results on 3/16" thick Castello (not the euro) and for the first time, I managed 1/4" Castello.  Took 4 passes but it I was happy since previous tests, I gave up after 6 passes at a slower speed and higher power.
 
On a side note, Boxwood is the toughest wood to cut from what I've seen.  Euro box seems harder to cut than Castello with a laser.  Maybe in the next couple of weeks, I'll try some ebony which should be interesting to say the least.   BTW, basswood cuts like butter now.
 
Here's a picture to compare to the previous one at post #24.  Less charring and a cleaner cut.  I went for broke on the photo and using the super macro setting went for the biggest image I could get to challenge this fix.
 

 
 
Final Thoughts:
 
I'm still not recommending it.  There's only been two reviews out there.. this one and the one by Debbie over at Sawmillcreek.org.  I'll be adding mine there also.
 
If I had known the challenges I would be facing, I would have looked at a different machine AND a different company. 
 
Since my scale of choice is 1:64, I seriously doubt I'll have to cut 1/4" wood but 3/16 is very likely and doable.   If my Licorne and the ships I have planned are any indication, mostly it'll be 1/8" and thinner.  
 
If anything else pops up.. I'll post it.
 

you think I was finished with those railings?????   ohhhhhhh noooooo,  this kit isn't through running me through the ringer yet     I found out that there are two other parts that go along with the bow and stern railings.   the railings were cemented on the bow section.......minus the tip of the railing.
 

 
on with the stripe.........the hull was masked and redied for paint.
 

 

 
man.....I pressed the living crap out of the tape.....to insure that the plastic's detail was sealed away,  to give me a good line.
 

 
and then my heart stopped!   since it was such a small area to paint......I figured that I didn't need to mask up the entire hull.
     I think this should be a warning to those who are just starting out with their airbrushes.......never misjudge over spray!
 

 
I put into action,  a technique I used to do long ago.   got a clean rag and some thinner and gave it a gentle wash over. 
   the bottom paint has been on there about a week now.......plenty of time to cure.   the yellow overs pray is new and hasn't cured yet.....as long as you don't scrub,  it should come off very easy.   gentle strokes in one direction and move very fast.......don't dwell on any part of the hull,  this is what it looks like now.
 

 
the stern railings were cemented in place at this time.   you can see the section that's missing at the very aft
 

 
there is some repair and touch up to be done with the stripe.   I tried so hard to get the tape to stick completely.   I made the stripe a wee bit wider than it probably should,  but I think once it's touched up and the deck / bulwark assemblies are in place,  it should look OK.
 

 

 
I left the name plates at the bow open for the name decals.

These things take longer than we think they will. I am doing a little model work, just not on boats at the moment.
 
Michael

Continuing the saga...
 
I discovered (from another webite... sawmillcreek I think it was) that the lens holder may have issues like the hole between the mirror and lens being too small or off center. It's too narrow or off-center (seems to be a common problem) then the beam hits the sides and power is dissipated and the beam distorted before hitting the lens.  Well... mine is off-center about 1/32" or so.  I'll be firing up the lathe and re-cutting the opening with boring bar. 
 
My late father-in-law who was doctor before he retired, used to say that a good challenge is excellent for keeping the mind sharp.  I'm now thinking he meant a "challenge on the golf course" instead of something like this.   
 
And for the record,  I got an answer back from MM...  no inference that they mislaid or ignored the first.... anyway, here it is.. verbatim.    I've found lenses on line if I suspect that's what I really need at this point and the water temp is doable without adding ice to the bucket..
 
There are no lens options available, only factory replacements of the stock lens that comes in the machine.
 
There is not a manual for the CorelLaser program.
 
The ideal water temperature is between 70 -75 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature should not be allowed to go much over 78 degrees. Cool water can be slowly added into the bucket with the laser powered off and the pump still circulating.  To prevent thermal shock and damage to the laser tube be sure the water being added is within 10 degrees of the water temperature in the bucket.
 
Thank you for your feedback, I have passed your comments on regarding improvements to the LaserKnife manual and asked that our quality control check that the laser lenses are properly installed.
 
Micro-Mark Technical Service Department

Hi Mark,
 
I have been tossing with the idea of getting one of these cheapo units, but your experience really put me off becoming an 'early adopter'. There is a lot of potential in laser-cutting, but as with every tool you get what you pay for. Also this experience seems to confirm the wisdom that these Chinese machines (whether manufactured to foreign specs or direct imports) should be rather considered an assembly of parts in an advanced state of machining … a starting point for a project 
I may come back to this, when my eye-sight gets too bad for working on small parts - hopefully in another couple of decades or so.

I used the "Recent Unpleasantness" as that's what some wonderful 'older' ladies I've met down in South called it.  Kinda' weird in some ways since they were volunteers at several museums and battlegrounds I visited.   The younger ones just called it the Civil War or in one case:  "The Uncivil War".  
 
If you look at the trouble Lincoln had with Generals (the usual politically connected ones), there was some (much?) with the Navy by inference.  The only reason the incompetence didn't come out in the news of the day was there were no major battles fought on the blue water.  The rivers, as you say were the Army's turf and they had issues.  Things got messy when the Confederates were on the cliffs overlooking one of the rivers as they could never bring guns to bear.  Part of the issue was procurement for the guns and mounts... run by politics not by the guys who knew what they needed.