Jack12477

Brief Update:
 
Planking this model is a real challenge. The plans do not show much detail regarding the planking other than the small pictures below;  The instructions call for the planking to start 3 mm below the top of each bulkhead bow to stern with each succeeding plank tight against the previous. Installation of the gar plank is somewhat obscure but it would appear from the written instructions (very sparse I might add) and the small picture that it is installed straight across bow to stern with no curvature.  At any rate the first two planks have been installed on both sides.  I've been using Chuck's method of edge  bending using a hair dryer bending it edgewise and length wise.  Slow and tedious but so far so good.
 
The plans:


 
Planking the first two planks:
 

 
 
 
There are some light refreshments over on the side bar for those in need of nourishment during the intermission.

Stay tuned

A brief update:
 
Planking of the false deck is now completed. However, when I went to install the false deck to the former and bulkheads the design of the stern piece (see post #9 photos 3 and 5 above) prevents the deck from sitting flush to the former and engaging the slot in the stern deck with the post on the former. The deck has a concave curve bow to stern and convex curve port to starboard; with this stern piece in place (triple checked for fit before gluing) the deck would not align correctly - so out came the isopropyl, Q-tip, knife and some deconstruction took place. See the last two photos below for the stern re-do.
 
Second issue was the lack of clamping ability due to the shape and curvature of the bulkheads.  More improvisation needed. Took a long piece of 1/4 inch sq basswood, cut it into short blocks, then glued the blocks to the top of each bulkhead, flush to the top edge and back from the outer edge.  Let them set up for about 36 hours.  My usual spring clamps didn't have enough clamping power to pull the deck down tight to the bulkhead outer edges, so the black machinists parallel screw clamps were used to pull the deck down tight.
 
You'll notice the already "weathered" look to the deck planking (this is a working tuna fishing boat) !  That's my new "innovative design"  
 
The deck is now secured to the former and bulkheads. The stern piece is temporarily attached with a clamp, when the glue cures I will re-glue it in place.
 

 
 

A brief update:
 
All of the bulkheads are now glued in place. I use small 1" square machinist squares I got from MicroMark to get the bulkheads square with the backbone.
 

 
Next step is glue the planking to the false deck - the decking material is 0.6 mm thick x 5 mm wide ramin veneer. Too thin to edge bend so I plank in a straight line and trim the excess. I have not been successful using  a pencil along the edge to simulate the between planks caulking so instead I use Elmers glue for dark woods (shown below) which seeps up thru the joints, it also has a tendency to randomly darken the planks for a somewhat weathered look. I put the glue down with a small stir stick in very thin coats.
 

 
Once the false deck is planked it is then glued to the bulkheads. I think while I have the deck flat on the workbench I will jump ahead and add the walnut coaming around the open hatches as well. After the false deck is glued to the bulkheads I can start fairing the edges to accept the hull planking.

George, Mobbsie, Thanks ! 
 
George, yes the original is not much clearer than the scanned copy I posted  - the detail is unreadable.
 
Mobbsie, I think your solution will work.  I've probably been over thinking it.

George, Mobbsie, Thanks ! 
 
George, yes the original is not much clearer than the scanned copy I posted  - the detail is unreadable.
 
Mobbsie, I think your solution will work.  I've probably been over thinking it.

Update:  I've run into a small snag on the build.  The only instructions on the chain plates is the following photo; the plans do not show how the deadeye and chain plate are attached to each other, they only show placement of the chain plate/deadeye on the model. The parts list calls for a 0.3mm thick x 2 mm wide x 20 mm long piece of flat brass (part 50) and a 3.5 mm deadeye (part 51). 
 
I tried putting a loop in one end of the brass plate but still can't figure out how to attach the deadeye.
 
Photo of picture book instructions: The "detail" [if you can call it that] is in the small inset at the top of the larger photo. [ignore the strike outs that just my way of keeping track of what's been installed]
 

 
 
My interpretation:
 

 
Any suggestions ?

Thanks, Ken
 
I have the larger Xacto one also.  The mini came from MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/micro-miter-box,11565.html  Buy the saw and blades separately. The blade is a double edge razor blade cut with micro-fine saw teeth.which cut with little effort. But if you get one, make yourself a small jig to hold it.

yes sir........so many options.  I thank all of you for your suggestions.   I do have a couple more to try,  before moving on to one of them.   I was talking on the phone with a friend of mine,  and I began to doodle,  taking the gray scale print of the netting and coloring in the facets.   lots of uh huhs and one word answers....bet he thought I was being cryptic  
 

 
when I was finished with the phone call.......I took one of the windows and gave it a try
 

 
I kinda like it........but coloring in the rest of the netting would feel very tedious.   but what would it look like with a light behind it?   I haven't tried it yet,  although I did get to see what it would look like with a light inside.   I saw packages of these battery operated tea lights...they even flicker.   I bought a two pack.........they had a six pack,  but the admiral thought it would be a waste.   setting them up.......it looked pretty cool,  imagining that there was a roof on the house and I had both front windows in place.   then one of them fizzled out........cheap piece 'o %#@* !   since it would look better with two in there,  I'm going to get another package.....unless I see another brand that looks that it might be of better quality.   I will try and get a shot of this for you.   we headed out again today.......more errands,  which took us near a Michaels craft store.   we had no luck finding anything that might work as a backing......not even in the doll house section.  poking around in the scrap booking section,  I came across something else that might work.  I'll let you know how it goes with trying it.   I did manage to begin work on the roof.......framing out the bottom.   
 

 
now to decide........peak or flat  
 
 

Update:  I've run into a small snag on the build.  The only instructions on the chain plates is the following photo; the plans do not show how the deadeye and chain plate are attached to each other, they only show placement of the chain plate/deadeye on the model. The parts list calls for a 0.3mm thick x 2 mm wide x 20 mm long piece of flat brass (part 50) and a 3.5 mm deadeye (part 51). 
 
I tried putting a loop in one end of the brass plate but still can't figure out how to attach the deadeye.
 
Photo of picture book instructions: The "detail" [if you can call it that] is in the small inset at the top of the larger photo. [ignore the strike outs that just my way of keeping track of what's been installed]
 

 
 
My interpretation:
 

 
Any suggestions ?

Hello Jack,
 
My solution would be to make a loop of 0.5mm wire, place your deadeye into the loop and tighten with two twists, the loose ends after the twist I would pass through the loop of the chain and pull thight, these can then be glued with resin or soldered. Cut off the remaining wire.
 
Just my meanderings mate, hope that helps.
 
Nice boat rack by the way.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

It's hard to make anything decisive out of the photos in the plans, but if it were me, I think I'd solder the strop, or drill a hole for both ends of the strop, for the deadeye right onto the chainplate.

Update:  I've run into a small snag on the build.  The only instructions on the chain plates is the following photo; the plans do not show how the deadeye and chain plate are attached to each other, they only show placement of the chain plate/deadeye on the model. The parts list calls for a 0.3mm thick x 2 mm wide x 20 mm long piece of flat brass (part 50) and a 3.5 mm deadeye (part 51). 
 
I tried putting a loop in one end of the brass plate but still can't figure out how to attach the deadeye.
 
Photo of picture book instructions: The "detail" [if you can call it that] is in the small inset at the top of the larger photo. [ignore the strike outs that just my way of keeping track of what's been installed]
 

 
 
My interpretation:
 

 
Any suggestions ?

Thank you all for the comments and likes.  They help a lot in the post holiday doldrums as i try to get energized for the work ahead.
 
Druxey, the head height under the forecastle beams is only about 4'6".  The height in the lockers is closer to 5' but with the step over coaming the door height is also about 4'6".  I'm sure dragging the anchor chain over that unidirectional winch from under the forecastle was no fun.
 
Frank, you are quite right about my desire to have a process nailed down beforehand and I try to work that way once I have a process that works well.  However, each process takes at least some development and that usually involves an iteration between work and redrafting - and often some scrap.  For example, for the past week or so I have been working on the two capstans.  They are different from the usual 18C  Admiralty types and smaller than those on the Naiad model s there has been a lot of trial and error - and a drawing revision about once a day.  Hope to show these soon.
 
Crackers, from trying to comment on so much of the great work on MSW, I know it is often hard to keep finding nice things to say.  Its much easier to hit the like button, but I do appreciate the comments and the time taken to make them.
 
Ed 

Thanks, Ed. I guess to get in to either the locker or the head, one would need to crouch over like Igor. "Walk this way."

“...Sobbing, Sam took another step..."




Very very very thin last layer of putty mixed with acrylic. Next is exclusive use of 400 sandpaper only and acrylic for final painting

Nice work, Bob! Now that the holidays are over, it's full steam ahead, as you said. Needless to say, I'm looking forward to what you've got in store next.
 
All the best!
 
Patrick

A nice , workmanlike black!  Looking forward to seeing her grow now that the holidays are over.
 
John

Finally the holidays are over and I can get back to modeling.  In painting the hull I messed up the rivet band so that had to be redone.  Plans are to paint the bulwarks and deck, install the rail and start on the cabins.  Here are the pictures for now.
 
Bob     
 

 

I cut and sawed the spar deck shoulders for the cargo areaand then primed and painted them. The jeweler saw made short work of cutting them.

Next I glued them in place. If I had to do this again I would install them before adding the side wall to the gundeck. But since the bulkheads are not in the correct positions to complete the framing I will just do the shoulders. Here they are in place.

Next I turned the three main hatch deck supports on the lathe using hard maple. Hard maple holds detail much better than basswood when turned. Here is a sequence showing the process.
 



 
Here I used a triangle needle file to form the bow with the reference cuts to the shoulder. This is small enough for the file to work with great results.


 
Once one was done it was easy enough to transfer reference marks by indexing and aligning the square end into the chuck next to the one to be cut.

 
Now back to making more hatches and ladders for both the gundeck and spar deck based on what can be seen through the main hatch opening and others.

Great job on the ladders. I really like the detail and the way you explained how you did it. Always looking forward to more progress

Ken your doing a great job!
 
Greg H.

Ken, nice job with those deck beams. It makes all the difference having them match the grates.

George, I am not familiar with any ; but I am sure if you contact the Weller Tech support they may be able to provide the information that you need or point you in the right direction.

Very nice work Ken.  I can foresee using your techniques for the gun-deck and main-hatchway construction when I get to mine, - if you don't mind of course. 
 
On a side-note, do you know of a soldering station that will work for the Weller W100P-3? So far I've only been able to find the 40 W variable ones, or will that work for lower-power jobs using the 100 W iron?

Just found your Fantastic build Grant, it's really a work of art. Looking forward to seeing the new monograms applied