Jack12477

In the fisheries I'm familiar with ice for fish holding is flake ice. Block ice doesn't provide enough fish surface contact and crushed ice is too rough and dimples the skin/flesh of the fish. Flake ice is made at the processing plant and is normally provided free of charge to boats/skippers who fish for the processor. 

If we recall, I used served sewing pins for the futtock staves on the lower masts, providing something a bit more firm than just a served line.  The futtock staves on the upper masts are smaller in circumference however, so instead of pins I opted for #28 beading wire - which worked quite well.  I did have to put a very, very thin coat of tacky fabric glue on the wire before I served it however to get the thread to stay put instead of just having the wire rotate with the thread doing it's job.
 
 
 
Next step was measuring the length of the stave for the given mast - which ended up being 7mm for the main and 5mm for the fore mast. This small size was quite tricky to work with - so I coiled a knot on each end first, then attached it to the shrouds.  As a note - I touched each end of the stave where it was cut with a black sharpie to cover the exposed wire.
 

 
The staves were attached just far enough below the sister blocks to allow for the two foremost shrouds to be pulled apart a bit and all four shrouds to be evenly separated as they have a tendency to overlap where they come together in the limited space below the heads.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

It's an ok rendition of probably the greatest racing engine ever built... but there were three that came before it, the Offenhauser, the Miller, and the Peugeot... All considered the greatest of all time... All 4 valves per cylinder DOHC...
 
The Cosworth is legendary...
 
Today, Honda is trying to make it up on that podium...
 
I'm in... 

I guess the likes indicate a yes.  I bought this kit a couple years back from ebay.  This is the original version of the kit.  In hindsight, I overpaid as you can now get the re-issued kit for about 125 bucks, with PE parts.  Oops.  At least the version I have includes the "John Player Special" decals as it was produced just around the time tobacco advertising was being banned in a few places, but not all over.  The current kit is referred to only as the "type 78" on the box and I assume does not have the JPS decals, though they are available from third party suppliers.
 
I've just started a bit on planning the build and started assembling some of the body parts in preparation for painting.  As with other older Tamiya kits, I am expecting a few fit issues and there are also some rather nasty ejector pin marks to deal with.   I'll likely build it mostly out of the box, with some third party seat belts, braided steel lines instead of the kit supplied rubber hoses, and maybe a few other things.
 
And this will be the third time I build a Tamiya Ford DFV engine, as I have already built the Lotus 49 and Lotus 72D. 
 

What ever you use for ice I would add some broken pieces of mica to the top surface to give the sparkly look of ice.

Neat little jig Gary, and your usual eye for detail. Enjoying this very much.

many thanks Roel and Keith,
 
I learned a lot from your input with ref. to duty on lightships
 
Nils

Not really my main interest, but I'm keeping an eye on this one for quite a while now.
It's a funny hull shape and brilliant planking job! 

Druxey - thank you & a good suggestion, I didn't consider that.
 
Keith, thanks also - the effort to set up interlocking frames was an interesting exercise & enforced accuracy. It also worked well with the available drawings on the boat, just the full sized lines - it's a quirk that the boats built to the design are not the same, they do vary but most keep to the concept of the underwater lines from the original design. 
 
John, thanks - I knew I'd heard that phrase before...now I just need 50,000 'volunteers' to assist on the build.

Looking good!
 
What are you using for the rigging?

Empennage is done. I can't give this kit high marks for number and quality of diagrams, not for sufficiency of internal structure. I had to muddle through the former and scratch-build some of the latter, but it turned out okay, I think.
 

 

 

Any interest out there in a build log for another Tamiya 1/12th scale F1 car?

Greetings Fellow Modelers
 
Thanks to all for your fine comments, for the "likes" and to those watching quietly.
 
 
More Fish Hold Stuff
 
Continuing on with the fish hold, the next step was to build the back walls of the bunker partitioning.  In the drawing below, the hold is defined by the yellow cross-hatching and the back wall partitioning by the green lines.  The back walls are individual bunker partitions, but for this model I've simplified it as a single one-piece wall.  The blue dots are the vertical posts used to segment the hold into individual bunkers/pens.
 

 
 
To begin, I created a paper template of the area to be walled.
 

 
 
Planking was glued directly to the paper template.
 

 

 
 
Styrene channel was glued on at each post base location. The proper depth channel needed for this is not manufactured, but I found an “H” column that was close enough once modified.
 

 

 
 
The back wall pieces were then glued on.  A corner torn from a Post-it note makes a hands-free right-angle square.
 

 
 
At this point, I became aware of two errors that needed to be addressed.  First, the height of the perimeter partition walls, and the bulkhead end walls were too short.  This would allow a view through an open hatch to see above the walls.  It would be an extreme angle view to be certain, but a deck mock-up proved to me it was possible.  The second error is that the forward bulkhead end wall was placed 12 scale inches forward of where it should be. That's a problem because it interferes with the proper placement of the mast, which is unacceptable.  So, a second end wall was installed 12” aft of the first one.
 
In the image below the new (taller) end wall is on the right.  One would now expect that the two forward bunkers are 12” narrower than the other bunkers, but they are not.  The post spacing is correct from the aft bulkhead forward and only the forward wall was misplaced.  Indeed, I caught this error because the forward bunkers appeared to me a tad wider than the others.
 
Extra work caused by working carelessly.
 

 
 
Next, the four-sided posts for the bunker partitioning were made.  They are a five-piece styrene construction.
 

 
 
 
A construction jig is assembled. The styrene is modified “H” columns and strips from Evergreen.  Solvent cement keeps the posts from being inadvertently glued to the jig.
 

 
 
A channel is placed into the jig.
 

 
 
A flat strip is cemented on top of that. Two of these channel/flat piece assemblies are made for each post.
 

 
 
The center rectangular strip is added to one of the above assemblies.
 

 
 
Then both assemblies are cemented together.
 

 

 
 
The posts are glued onto the post bases.
 

 
 
One of the back walls is heightened, a channel extension is glued on, and a partition is installed.
 

 
 
The partitions are cut from blanks of edge-glued wood strips. A paper template of the partition is placed on the blank and the shape is cut free. They are stained with chalk and alcohol. I use alcohol to liquefy and apply the chalk because it penetrates the wood and evaporates off quickly leaving no time for the thin wood strips to warp.
 

 
 
I used “super thin” CA to glue these partitions in.  With the partition already in place, a drop of the CA at the top of the post races down the channel and glues most of the plank ends.  I have an extension tip on my bottle to help control the flow and I use the watery glue infrequently and cautiously.  I feel there should be a “skull and crossbones” on the bottle.  If you must use it, keep a can of fresh acetone at the ready.  A mishap will glue your fingers together instantly with the possibility of a trip to urgent care.  Am I exaggerating?  Not really.
 

 
 
The partitions are all in.  I'm considering partially filling a few of the bunkers with ice.  What do you folks think and what would make a convincing 1:48 ice?  It would have to be a non-soluble material.
 

 

 
 
I've installed 8 surface mount LEDs (one over each bunker) to light up the hold.  That seems like a lot, but they are small and their output will be adjustable.  Two wood strips holding four diodes each are assembled.  These LEDs are SMD 805 warm white and are attached to the strips with a clear (when dry) version of Gallery Glass.  For scale, the grid on the mat 1/2” (12.7mm)
 

 
 
Both strips attached over the bunkers.
 

 
 
Thanks for stopping by.
 
Be safe and stay well,
 
Gary
 
 

Re - above 
The full crew of each lightship was two officers, who served alternatively one month on the ship and one in port, and nine men who were divided into three classes – seamen, signalmen and lamp trimmers, who each served two months on board and one on shore. Seven of the crew were actually engaged at any one time aboard the lightship. One officer and three men were always ashore, where they were employed in the Trinity House depot or to make the relief boats when required.
More detail here:- https://friendsoflv50.org.uk/history/life-aboard/
I particularly liked this extract:-
In the summer-time, when the weather was fine and the days were long, the crew, though there was always plenty of work for all, often employed their spare time in the construction of model ships, rugs, boxes, toys etc and many of the men were extremely expert at that pastime. 
 
Sounds like a pretty relaxing job.

Roel
 
Many of those activities are also required in off shore lighthouses which had 3 keepers. 
The interesting comment is "It was an extremely demanding and dangerous profession, and it would take 15 to 20 years of service to be promoted to master." This seems to imply more substantive activities than just maintenance. I think I will do a little more research.

Haha very good thanks Egilman. 

oh sorry, got confused with Keith's Trinity House lightships. 
Propulsion or no propulsion doesn't make that much of a difference in this case when it comes to shipboard activities.  
You also stand a higher chance successfully fighting a fire with 11 or 12 than with 3... 

Too funny. 

I remember reading a long time ago that some very early paper models have survived surprisingly long times in museums. As for my models, they will probably survive until I die, but after that all bets are off!

Chris, what is the life expectancy for a paper model? I asked Mr Google but he didn't know diddly. 

Added the pilot's headrest and windscreens. The kit provide neither interior frames nor glazing templates for the latter; I made photocopies and used those as templates.
 

My priorities are in perfect order -- they just don't match my wife's priorities!

A little bit of progress made over the past few weeks on the gears and tracks and in putting together the diorama base that comes with this kit. I’m wondering if they included a base because the tank itself is so small that it needs elevation.  A minor annoyance with this kit is that the numbering on the spruces is printed in the same tan colour as the parts and so one must check and recheck part numbers often because of the glare of the working light makes it difficult to see the numbers.   My son has finished his lego x wing, leaving me behind in the galactic dust 😆
 
Scott
 

Hi Roel,
 
the propulsion was done with a 650 PS MTU / MAN diesel engine
 
Nils

I would assume there was quite some maintenance. Although there was no propulsion, they'd still have generators (need to keep that light on), which then means they'd have a fuel system, starting air system, fresh water production (or bunkering), sewage system, etc. All of that requires maintenance. 
Additionally I'm not sure if they had pneumatic chipping hammers, if they didn't, they'd have to chip with manual chipping hammers, which really takes a long time to do properly (in fact also also with pneumatic hammers). Cosmetic maintenance would therefore also take a lot of manpower. 
Additionally there is taking provisions, spare parts, bunkering, communications etc. 
Pretty sure they could keep themselves busy, although it would look to me like an end-of-career/retirement job considering the lack of prospects and for local people the idea of working closer to home.