Jack12477

And ... can it be/have it be more precise?
 

 

I found this glossary very handy as my mother-tongue is not English either:
Illustrated Glossary of Ship and Boat Terms and you can find here https://www.oxfordhandbooks.com/view/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780199336005.001.0001/oxfordhb-9780199336005-e-48
Hope it helps for you as it does for me 😉
 

Just to mention ... long ago, I downloaded as *.pdf George Bidddlecombe`s book Art of rigging  (1848) with 70-80 pages of nautic dictionary with terms and drawings, also book "Nautical terms for modelship builder" puiblished by www.modelshipbuilder.com, with 80 pages of terms and explanations ... and optimisticly started with learning ... but ... one to me unknown term is definied with  another one or two or more terms which are also unknown to me, so, digging for that one or two additional terms, I found them but ... explained with another one or two unknown terms ... etc etc 
So I gave up

Just a quick point on this bit NenadM, dont knock your knowledge on this subject. I come from an Island nation famous for its naval history but there are very few people in this country, including myself,  who would not have the faintest idea what a Trestletree or Crosstree is, let alone a bunt line or deadeye without having to research the subject first.
 
This is a language all of its own that was known to a select few and even that fell out of use over a century ago for the most part, so you are not alone in needing a very specific type of dictionary and thesaurus to get to grips with the task ahead.
 
Simon 

Thank you Craig and Ken for the comments.  I do appreciate it.  And thanks to all for the likes.
 
 
Hello Keith
 
Thanks for following my projects and for your helpful and supportive comments - it's always great to have your views, insights and encouragement.  
 
This diorama is indeed getting close to being finished. There are several things yet to do; the ceiling, “outside” lighting, an overhead hoist and a few other minor details, maybe a couple of weeks worth – maybe more.  It's been a fun and relaxing build.  Looking ahead will be another New England fishing vessel, this time an Eastern-rigged boat. I have purchased copies of the original drawings from which three individual vessels were built in the 1940s and 50s.  It is larger than the Stonington boat I finished last year, almost twice the length and more detailed, so at my slow modeling pace it will be a multi year project.  But I might build another short term model first, not sure. I've had this itch to scratch a Holmes 750 wrecker and plop it on a military truck that's living a second life in civilian use, or a farm tractor or a Whitehall pulling boat, or . . .
 
Thanks again.
 
Gary
 

Update... somewhat.  I have the starboard side, sanded, filled, and I think ready for paint though painting is down the road a ways.    Starting the other side of sand-fill-sand-fill... ad infinitum ad nauseam. I'll clean up the stern all at once after the port side is done.   Here's pics.... 

Thanks for looking in and your comments.  For the most part, I'm taking the day off from sanding.  Need to clear sinuses among other things.  

Continuation: Garnet tackle - Palan d'etai
In the meantime I have finished all the components for the garnet tackles.
The pendants were hung up on a specially made mast collar with a thimble. I made these hooks with thimbles using my own method. For this purpose, an 18 mm long brass rod with a diameter of 1.2 mm was turned off with a needle file on the Proxxon fine grinder so that the thickened areas were created at the corresponding points on the hooks. I made the thimbles in the tried and tested manner from brass tubes.

 
The next picture shows the finished hooks with thimbles, not yet blackened.

 
The other two pictures show all components of the 3 garnet tackles:
- 6 double blocks, 3 of which have swivel hooks for the tackles
- 4 single blocks for the guides, 2 of them with hooks
- 2 guide elements
- 2 mast collars (one tackle was lashed directly to the stay with an eye)
- ropes ø 0.46 mm and ø 0.67 mm (original ø 32 mm or ø 22 mm)
- 3 pendants ø 0.90 mm (original ø 43 mm)

 

 
Sequel follows …

Your experience resonates with me bug, but even if you can’t quite maintain the accuracy strake by strake as the second layer is applied, those linings and tIck marks do provide a guide to follow.
I find that even after one or two strakes the planks start to run out of sync with the tick marks along the hull. Even with what should be the simplest line marking at the central bulkhead with full width planks the match is invariably off after a few planks are applied. A combination of width variation in the kit planks, and inaccuracies in marking the ticks all contribute to the situation.
I work on the basis of running the planks as best as I can down to the required number for the banding, and then re-assess what is required for the remainder.
Once I complete the second banding I will remark the strakes and work up from the Garboard. Hopefully the final spiled plank  won’t be too weird in shape and will lie below the round of the hull, as does yours.
I think you have achieved a good result, and those stealers and spiled planks will be covered by the copper.
 
B.E.

I started joining some of the deck sections using tabs made of scrap deck pieces. Out of curiosity I used a couple of drops of Tamiya plastic cement on one of the tabs and got a fast and strong bond with the deck piece to be attached. I was quite excited thinking I had found a simple and clean way to build up the superstructure and deck fittings. I find epoxy to be a bit imprecise and messy to work with as well as the nuisance of needing to keep mixing small quantities of the adhesive. I try not to use CA glues as I think I get a reaction to the fumes so this looked like a good option but when I tried to use plastic cement to edge join the walls of the chartroom it would not bond at all so I'm back to five minute epoxy.
Printing continues with some of the smaller parts. In spite of occasional frustrations with the vagaries of the printer I am still fascinated by the parts it produces. Today I was working on the ships boats and ventilation cowls.

The right hand boat is still in its supports and so is the white ventilator. These are easily detached and discarded.
I think I am suffering from filament degradation. I am using a couple of reels that have been open for a while and the print quality is not good with poor adhesion between layers and very poor finish. I have cooked the white reel in a drying box for six hours and that seems to be printing very nicely again so hopefully the other reel will also respond to treatment. Looks like something to watch. The reels are about four months old and stored in sealed plastic bags.
Alan
 
 

You did some nice work in that "office". Show it to everyone.😁

open my friend, there is no other answer... (but, it is up to you, it is your creation)

Hi,
I bought the Tamiya flat clear XF-86 and sprayed it on the entire model. Fortunately, it seems that the red of the decals did not fade further:

 
The Tamiya flat clear gives a finish which is not completely dead matt, but leaves a satin shine. Although additional matt effect can be added to it, I like this finish which is like an 'egg shell' type of matt finish.
 
Finally, after long, I can start removing the masked areas. This is one of the most awaited step of aircraft modelling. Starting with the jet pipe:

 
Removal of the brakes:
 
The canopy, which was kept in place by drops of masking fluid, was pulled out and the cockpit could be seen again:

 
The masking of the windshield piece was removed:

 
The masking of the canopy was removed and the canopy posed in place (shall I glue it closed or open?):

 

 
That's all for now, refining weathering and touching up of the paint will follow.
Thanks for following,
Dan.

Gary, I almost reacted with a 'sad' emoji because with the lights going in, it means this is just about the last chapter of this build. Each completed project is absolutely amazing but the journey with you creating a build is so very rewarding. 
 
 This one isn't even finished and I'm already on the edge of my seat in anticipation of your next project. Any hints? 

That patina matches the look of the station lighting in the interior of the train station my club lives in, in Hendersonville, NC. The building is 119 years old. The club has been in there since 1992. Really like your work, Gary. 👍

Great tutorial Gary!

Hi all,
after the gloss paint, I tried to bring up the surface details with art oil colors. The underside was treated with Payne's grey which has a shade of blue in it:
 

 
For the upper surface, I used Burnt umber which is a very dark brown. This is a picture taken after brushing the color. This is when you hope that chemistry really works as promised:
 

 
After cleaning the oil color:
 

 
I realized that I run out of flat clear paint, so I am driving now to the LHS to buy some.
See you soon,
Dan.
 

Thanks so much for all the wonderful and generous comments - you folks are so kind.  And as always, thank you for the likes and for stopping by.
 
 
How do you know I'm not 3/4" tall?
 
 
Interior lighting Prep Work
   
This posting is a bit tedious - I apologize in advance.
 
I put LED lighting on some but not all of my models. There has to be some justification for the effort and the subject needs to call for it. These little dioramas don't just call for it – they scream for it. But in the same way that bright colors can sometimes make small scale models look toy-like, so too can bright lights (or too many of them.) This diorama would be difficult to view without lighting and it will add greatly to the ambiance providing I don't botch it.  There will also be “daytime” through-the-window” lighting which I'll explain in an upcoming post.
 
In addition to the drop light under the vehicle, there will be four pendant lights hanging from the ceiling and a single bench lamp. The pendant lights hang off conduit that roughly scales to a little larger than 1” trade size pipe. The “pipe” is stainless tubing and has an inside diameter of .013”. As you can see in the image below it is quite small and yet if I had something smaller I would use it.
 

 
 
The problem in using small tubing is that there are no prewired LEDs with fine enough wires that will fit through such tubing. Here is a prewired #0805 LED (the size I will be using) and clearly it will not fit down that tubing.
 

 
 
So I solder my own using a simple process that makes soldering fine wires easy and almost enjoyable in a deranged sort of way.  LEDs can be bought in strips that were cut from reels for literally a cent or two apiece, so when I smoke one, it doesn't bother me in the least.  Here are the sizes I use. From left – 0402, 0603, 0805, 3528 and 5050.  The 0402 is small enough that it could be used in an HO scale headlight.
 

 

 
 
LED code numbers refer to the standard SMD (surface mount device) package dimensions and don't indicate a level of brightness. They were designed to be wave soldered onto printed circuit boards, not hand soldered. And confusingly, they are sold by both their metric measurements and their imperial measurements. So a metric #1608 (1.6mm x .08mm) references the same device as an imperial #0603 (.063” x .031”.)  If that isn't confusing enough, there is a metric 0201 and an imperial 0201, but they are not the same device and have a completely different footprint. Same is true for 0402 and 0603. I can solder an imperial 0402, but it would take a wizard to hand solder a metric 0402. Point being – buyer beware.
 

 
I use #39 magnet wire that has a .0038” diameter including insulation and is adequate for feeding a single LED. The insulation is an enamel coating and is better to burn off than to try and scrap off, which damages the underlying copper. With a ball of freshly applied solder on the tip of my iron (almost about to drip off), I quickly insert the wire into the drip before the all flux burns off. This burns off the coating and tins the copper in one step. So after cutting the wires to length, I burn off a 1/4” section about 1” back from the end. This 1/4” section is what gets soldered to the LED connection pads.
 
I place the LED onto a strip of double sided tape and then position the wires over the top and stick them down to the tape on both sides of the LED. This keeps everything in place during soldering. I position the wires so the insulation comes right up to the LED on the right hand side as shown below. I don't care about the other end because those wires will be clipped flush.
 

 
 
I then place a drop of “no-clean” electronic liquid flux on the LED followed by a split second touch with the iron in one hand and solder in the other applied simultaneously. No more than a second. One wire at a time with a cleaned iron tip and a fresh drop of liquid flux for each wire. I've had no luck going back to correct a bad solder joint because the solder becomes thick and clingy and the device can't survive the additional heat. It's a fast one shot thing – not difficult but takes a steady hand.
 

 
 
I use Kester 951 no clean liquid flux, Kester 83-7145-0415 electronic silver solder (.02” dia.) and a Weller 25 watt pencil iron with 1/16” flat tip. This little 1/2oz. syringe type applicator is handy for the flux.
 

 
 
First the desk lamp is made by annealing the stainless tubing and bending it into a gooseneck. The lamp shade is 3/16” diameter aluminum and the base is 1/8” dia. brass. The LED is a 0402 warm white.
 

 
 
The pieces are assembled and the underside of the shade gets a drop of “crystal clear” Gallery Glass to insulate and hold the LED in place. It will dry clear and shrink down flush with the shade or close to it.
 

 
 
The completed lamp is just over a 1/4” tall, 2 scale feet.
 

 
 
I cut four lengths of the tubing for the pendants and work a tiny flange onto one end of each. This mushroomed end will hold the shades and was made by reaming/wallowing with tip of a dressmakers pin.
 

 
 
The aluminum pendant shades are from Ngineering.  I center drill the domes with a #77 drill bit which makes for a tight fit allowing the flange to hold onto the shade.
 

 
 
The shades are primed in and out.
 

 
 
The tubing is pushed through the shade and the 0805 LED wires slipped in. The LEDs were encapsulated with clear Gallery Glass after they were soldered and allowed to dry. This insulates the bare connections so I can push it back into the shade without fear of shorting it out.
 

 
 
Then another drop of Gallery Glass to hold it firm.
 

 
 
The shade tops are painted a heavy acrylic wash over rust colored primer. It looks like oxidized copper (serendipitous and not what I was aiming for, but I like it and must write that down.)
 

 

 
Thanks for looking.  Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

good evening everyone
 
please dont laugh
my first decent attempt at spray painting
not a complete disaster the green is far to light, it will act as a base coat,  i wont be using the chipping method on here, but use the sponge method (even though i have no idea what i said there lol)
 
grey primer 

 
 
Lifecolor  metal LC-7001
 

i didnt like the results

 
lifecolor dark IDF LC-UA437 to light i will add brown on the top coat
 

A short update on my progress.
 
Figure 194: The wall accessories sorted in cups.

 
Figure 195: Headrests and the wall ornaments installed for compartment #1. Note I also painted the walnut strips in mahogany color, as in instructions. This color surely fits better than walnut here. I had mentioned above that I also bought mahogany strips to use here, however I think the mahogany paint over walnut looks better. So, I am not thinking of using mahogany at the moment.
 

Hi Ekis. I just looked up Japanese red cedar, which is very common in Japan and probably what was used to construct Atakebune. It's the type of wood that seems to have been used predominantly in wooden boat building in Japan.
 
It turns out that the trees can have trunks up to 4 meters wide, and I know that certain Edo period riverboats had hulls that were supposedly made from individual planks that were close to 2 meters wide. I didn't know if I really believed this, but now I think it makes sense.
 
You will, of course, need to make your own decisions on things, but I think 2 meter wide boards would not be at all far fetched. 
 
As for Korean turtle boats, I wouldn't think there would be much connection there. Different shape, different construction style, different traditions.
 
Also, one last point to consider is that the Japanese typically use calking between planks on their smaller boats, only at the chines, if they used it at all. This makes seams between adjacent planks pretty hard to see. At 1/100 scale, it would be invisible.
 
In fact, when I think about it, I only use separate planks on models at 1/10 scale. Even at that scale, you can only tell that the planks are separate parts because the grain and figuring of the wood is slightly different between the two. Without that, you'd never know.
 
 
This is a really good and important topic, and I think I'm going to continue it on my Atakebune build log here.

"I'm  Back"
 
So after putting my Hawk on the back boiler  - I decided to have another bash on this,   if you remember I was struggling with  rattle can painting it,  so I decided to give it a bash with my airbrush,   I mixed up some Nato Green  in my airbrush cup  with 50%  water and started several coats all over my wokka, drying it before turning over to paint the bottom.
When finished  I also sprayed the tail gate.
Think it has painted up quite well.

Hey Bob - I ordered the soldering paste from a website called wirejewelry.com.   They were pretty prompt with the order, so I was happy with them.  Not knowing the metal requirements, I ordered one each of soft, medium, and hard as well as some spray flux.
    I already had the torch - it's basically just a culinary torch I bought years ago from a department store.
 
   I watched a handful of silver soldering videos on YouTube, then It took a little getting used to.
 
 

My supplies from a jewelry supply place came in - thanks @Blue Ensign for the tips on silver soldering!   
 
    
 
      After some playing around a learning the ropes - I made my first attempts at it to create the pump cranks!
 
 
 
 
 
     As B.E. mentioned, the trickiest part (at least for me) was getting everything held in place and held still for soldering. I blackened the pieces subsequently.  All of the posts and pumps (and capstan) are temporarily placed and will get some touching up prior to final placement.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I only have metal files, no diamond files. For the PE I just used a strip of 400-600 grit Emery paper glued to a Popsicle stick to smooth rough edges.