hof00

Hi Peter
Thanks for your comment  
yes I am finally raising the masters - it is almost 2 years since I started doing the masters  . - but it is something you do when you have time and mood so there have been long breaks along the way.
 
Cheers
Jens

Hi Denis
Thanks for your comment   
cutty sark in the window sill is artesania latina. i built it approx. 2010- 2013 it is a fantastic good kit with high quality material selection. I built it half after instruction and half after pictures of C.S.

Cheers 
Jens

None! They are currently quite static

lmao. That was superb.
 
Alan

If I may say so Sir, Awesome Work!!
 
Cheers....HOF.

I think of a Maiden as something from the 17th/18th century.... or, well before? Call me old fashioned.
I think these days it's Miss, Ms or Mrs?
 
Cheers.... Harry. (HOF)

Well Just because Mark is such a wizz getting his helicopter done, as usual I have not been so prodigious in my progress. Even though there has been a considerable amount of work since I last updated my log it is not all that visible. With only a couple of things left to go I finished the pilot chairs, determined their proper location and glued them into position. I will add the shoulder harnesses after the pilots are fully painted, and add the collective and cyclic controls at the very last so that they won't be broken.
 
I have been spending most of my time on the jump seats. Getting them assembled in a way that they could be strong enough not to fall apart later. The rear bench and gunners seats were especially problematical and I eventually had to come up with my own way to make them fit and, (Hopefully) look right. I am not a 100% happy with it but I can only alter them so many times and still have them work at all.
 
So at this point it is mostly getting the seat belts installed, making a few more repairs to the deck, and a lot of painting. Mostly on the pilots who have to be in position before installing the overhead, but the over all interior also needs a lot of paint and will be easier to do it now rather than wait until later.
 
So here are the pictures. They don't really show the back and forth and constant redoes but you just need to be aware what you are looking at is just the latest rendition and far from finished.




Thanks for looking in

Wahay!!! We have stanchions and propellers!
the walnut strips I got were completely wrong. Ended up finding mahogany ones eventually.
I found it tricky doing the holes for the propeller shafts. Using rolled up sandpaper definitely worked the best.

Hi well I've got the latrines and the latrines pump done, this is such a major undertaking I can see at least another 2 yrs in this kit.

Stayed up late and worked on detailing the deck and gluing Cabin and scratch built compartment under smokestack to the deck. 1st haul for Forest - 'there's no shrimp'! Toilet seat, rain boot and misc. crud. Scooper against bullwark. Small box added to lower right. Oil barrel and stack of cans added behind the cabin. Still need loads of line on deck but almost ready to install the outriggers and try net.

I think of a Maiden as something from the 17th/18th century.... or, well before? Call me old fashioned.
I think these days it's Miss, Ms or Mrs?
 
Cheers.... Harry. (HOF)

From Google the correct Ornithological term is "Hen" but is acceptable to call the female a "Duck."
 
The Drake looks especially slick....
Maybe call it "Sir Frances?" 🙂
 
Looking forward to seeing it on the water.
 
Cheers.... HOF.
 
 

I think of a Maiden as something from the 17th/18th century.... or, well before? Call me old fashioned.
I think these days it's Miss, Ms or Mrs?
 
Cheers.... Harry. (HOF)

I think of a Maiden as something from the 17th/18th century.... or, well before? Call me old fashioned.
I think these days it's Miss, Ms or Mrs?
 
Cheers.... Harry. (HOF)

From Google the correct Ornithological term is "Hen" but is acceptable to call the female a "Duck."
 
The Drake looks especially slick....
Maybe call it "Sir Frances?" 🙂
 
Looking forward to seeing it on the water.
 
Cheers.... HOF.
 
 

From Google the correct Ornithological term is "Hen" but is acceptable to call the female a "Duck."
 
The Drake looks especially slick....
Maybe call it "Sir Frances?" 🙂
 
Looking forward to seeing it on the water.
 
Cheers.... HOF.
 
 

From Google the correct Ornithological term is "Hen" but is acceptable to call the female a "Duck."
 
The Drake looks especially slick....
Maybe call it "Sir Frances?" 🙂
 
Looking forward to seeing it on the water.
 
Cheers.... HOF.
 
 

From Google the correct Ornithological term is "Hen" but is acceptable to call the female a "Duck."
 
The Drake looks especially slick....
Maybe call it "Sir Frances?" 🙂
 
Looking forward to seeing it on the water.
 
Cheers.... HOF.
 
 

It's not glued up yet just in position and the electric motor will be double sided tape in place once ready.All for today had to work on the truck and baseball tonight MGM Ball Park my Nephew's(HCoach) team MSU against Texas Tech,"Hail State". Kevin
 
(17)MSU-6 and (4)Texas-3 hooray! tomorrow me and two of my neighbors go in the DOB
(17)MSU-3 and (4)Texas -2 Hooray!my neighbors enjoyed the game alot. Kevin

Chris, are you going to build the kit, or just do a review? Hope you build it. I'd love to see it going together.
 
As for the Bremen Cog review, I'm thinking there is enough there to tell people what they want to know. 
 
One thing I'll add here, and as a disclaimer I should point out that this is kind of a plug for a company that I do some work for, but I kind of talked the owner of Ages of Sail into carrying the two laser-cut cog kits, plus a big order for their new wooden kit.  So if anyone is considering building any of these, please consider buying from Ages of Sail!
 
Now, on to the build...
 
To start with, I used a scalpel to cut the needed parts from the laser-cut sheet. The instructions show a double-edged razor blade, but that seems a little dangerous. The scalpel works quite well.

It is interesting that they laser-cut scarf joints. They look great, but they will get covered over later in the build. At this stage, I used simple Elmer's wood glue for these parts. It allows me some adjustment of the parts before the glue sets. In the photo above, it's a bit hard to tell, but the bow end is on the left side.
 

The next step was to fit all the bulkheads and hull stiffeners into place. All the parts slip easily into place and no glue was used at this stage – I wanted to test fit everything first. Plus, I love how quickly the hull takes shape at this early stage.
 


As you can probably see, once I was happy that I got everything into the correct places, I started adding glue to the joints. The close spacing of the bulkheads already gives the model a very solid feel, though the bulkheads at the ands are very delicate and they will buckle very easily, so a lot of care is needed in handling it yet.
 
The above photo doesn't show the vertical stiffeners that are added next. There are two on either side of the keel. You can see the slots for them in the bottom of the bulkheads. There is also a piece that is added to the outer edge of the lower bulkheads. You can see the notches for them in the edge of the bulkheads below the lower deck. You'll see this in later photos.
 

With the bulkheads all glued into place, you'll notice an interior space taking shape. This will be deal with in my next post. This takes me into page 6 of the 52-page kit instructions.
 
The instructions here discuss their method of painting to give the model a wood-like appearance.
 
Clare
 
 

Bob - The acrylics seem to allow more versatility when it comes to scrubbing, wiping away, using steel wool to create the weather effects. Using several underlying colors also gives the illusion of years of built up paint. 
   I plan to hide the small coin battery inside the base. I'm still toying with ideas for my base. The on/off switch will be on the back side of base.
   Wood would have worked but I had a lot of different sizes of Evergreen styrene sheets in my stock. Here's a test run with one Pico light that I did in the dark. 
* the cabin's top deck is not glued to cabin
 

Until this build, I have always used rattle can sprays and either Testors or Model Masters enamels in jars. My wife does a lot of crafting and she turned me on to using acrylic craft paints from HobbyLobby. For this kit, I basically am using an Oyster White, AC Flesh and Khaki Tan for most of my weathering by brush. Two brands are Delta Creamcoat and DecoArt Americana that come in 2oz. containers and are very inexpensive.
   With that said, here is the start of my cabin. I'm sorry I did not show all of the pieces but they consist of four panels and the top deck. I had to do some sanding in order to get all of them even for gluing. I then went about weathering the cabin to match up with the hull. The cabin sits over a large opening in the deck. A gentleman by the name of Don Stauffer put in a floor for the front of his cabin. He has some fine models and great work! At this point I decided to borrow his idea and create a total floor and cabin furniture for some interest. Almost all of this will never be scene but I had a good time putting it together. I also decided I would add lighting to the inside of cabin.
   For my lighting, I am using a 3v Pico size warm white light and coin battery with on/off switch by Evan Designs. His products are so easy to work with and produce great results. I highly recommend checking out his sight!
   The floor, bed and desk were created with Evergreen styrene sheets and rods. The stove was created by using a plastic safety covering over a computer plug. I doodled around for a couple of weeks and finally completed everything. Again, most of this will not be visible. Here is what it looks like at this point.
 
 
 
 

Taped off upper hull and used water and salt once again before spraying red oxide to lower hull. After drying, I then brushed off loose particles of salt. I sponged dark grey on the springer rail. Added a little more rust weathering to the hull. I also added the Jenny name plate to both sides of the bow.
 

I washed all of the parts with soap and water and let dry. I sprayed all parts with grey primer. After watching a couple of videos on youtube using hairspray and salt techniques to create weathered paint, I painted some blotches of yellow, bluish green, and brown on the hull. I sprayed a layer of hairspray and then sprayed a thin layer of flat white paint over the hull. After drying, I scraped the surface with a toothbrush to expose the under colors. 
 
I wet the entire surface of hull with water and sprinkled course salt and let dry. I then sprayed another coat of flat white paint and allowed to dry. I then went in and used a toothbrush to remove the salt crystals.
 
I'm sorry that I did not take any pictures of piecing together the cabin structure. The cabin roof is not glued nor is the cabin structure to the deck in these photos. The deck was weathered by brushing blotches of the yellow, bluish green and brown over the primer and then spraying the deck with flat white. I then used a stiff bristle brush and a little steel wool to remove some of the white to expose the under colors.
 
I used enamel spray paint for primer grey and flat white and decided to use acrylic craft paints purchased from HobbyLobby for brush work on my boat.
 
 
 
 
 

Masking the hull plates. I’m not going to weather this heavily so it will be quite subtle