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DaveRow

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Everything posted by DaveRow

  1. Chris(cabbie), Plenty of ways to build things. One just has to get there head around how they want the end result to look, and work at how the get there. For instance: the main and for jeer bits, the AOTS shows sheaves in the posts. I used 2 different thickness timber strips(laminated) around the 2.5mm sheave/s. By the time they are painted, you would not know this. And the paint will hide the sins/errors. Happy construction. Dave R
  2. Hi Greg, The brace you mentioned. Only item I could see that may be the brace you mentioned is the highlighted frame in the enclosed. ? Yes ? Easily missed. 2 of them running to the fore jeer bit/foremast partner. I'll be adding cleats as well. Another item to make now. Thanks heaps Dave R
  3. Novelty what novelty. For the love of god and country we do these crazy things.!
  4. Thanks to all that have been looking in on the build. I was on the replica on the 6th Oct, took plenty of pictures to assist in details. Windlass Update, I have spent hours on this baby so far. The side Standards & Bit Pins are glued in place now. This allowed me to fit the pin rails to the Pawl Bits(the bell tower !) The barrel is 95% complete, fitted and turns in place between the Bits(pin & cheek) complete with brass bolt and nut to lock in place - for final lockup. Neat eh! Made up some pawls - bit rough but at this scale lucky to get them. Need to trim them back a bit. Still more to go - the belfry cap to finish off. Then onto more bibs and bobs. Dave R
  5. Michael, I have found the Corel Kit, well let's say has many differences to AOTS(by K.M.) I've bashed my Endeavour to look as much as I can to the AOTS. The Corel plans and notes, I don't look at them. Dave R
  6. Some progress on the Windlass. I turned up the barrel on my home made lathe. The Bit pins & cheeks(ends) come apart to house the barrel, the cheek bottom held in with a brass bracket, the top with a brass bolt. Took a while to finely tuned the fitting to get the barrel to turn. I was surprised the figure heads came up fairly well I reckon. Only 2 days work. ! Next to add the pin rail, whelps, brackets etc. make the bell tower thingy. Mine will be something based on the replica, 2 posts. PS. I have yet to trim the ends of the barrel off, left them on for now. Dave R
  7. Michael, As the "Earl of Pembroke": 81' 3/8" was the length of the keel for tonnage. This is recorded in Ray Parkin's book "H.M. Bark Endeavour" Also noted: Length of the lower deck from the after side of the rabbit of the stem to the foreside of the rabbit of the post: 97' 7" Hope that helps. Dave R
  8. Hi Michael, The filler blocks. front or back run them all the way to the keel, so it is tight and square to start from. Too late now. I am leaving my keel 4mm thick, paint it brown probably, then it is same thickness as the rudder. The rudder, I tapered it slightly to the rear. Pics in my log if you want to see. June this year. I cut all the light ports out after the second plank layer. The thought being the planks lay truer when drying, cut out later. The Corel plans are full of mistakes. I completely remade the stern, threw the metal window thing and their design to the wind. Have you got yourself Karl Marquardt's "Anatomy of the Ship", a lot of the guys building the Endeavour use this as a definitive source of what the ship was most likely like. Up to you though. Dave R
  9. Hi Greg, Will concentrate on the deck items from now. All makes sense. I did push on over the weekend to get the Quarter Badge Deadlights made and fixed in place on the hull. I started the badges in April this year. I love making very small hinges , did I say that ? I am over them. I rebated the hinges on the deadlight so they did not stand out so much. At such a small scale, I found it difficult to make them smaller. At least the deadlights open, when all the glue is fully dry will snap a pic, post, then close them for the remainder of the build. The deck awaits the shipyard. Dave R
  10. Hi Pat/Greg others, I agree, will have to leave the items that are loose/swing off to the end. Anchors, Boats, Cannons(maybe fit them up and glue in place ?) I should start to move onto the deck items next/soon. Get these tucked away in place then back to the outside/mast bottoms. Dave R
  11. Hi Ron, Going well I see. Oh man, the rigging is going to be a tough one to tackle for me. Seeing what you and the others are doing, going to be a challenge. I have spent some time already looking into the rigging. Was definitely going to go black on the standing rig. Tan on the running. Dave R
  12. Greg, Had thought to leave them off, however got to go on sometime. They are glued on with 2 Pac epoxy, like the rest of the whole ship. Very solid joints. Time will tell how they stand up. Phil, The CA glue(I used PVA, is that the same ?) was BANYAN(Pat) advice, and for now just left the card unpainted. It is a slightly different shade than the painted post. I follow a lot of the guys build logs to get ideas how things are done and see if can come up with other ways to construct parts. Good fun and rewarding. Dave R
  13. Swivel Gun Stocks. Well the shipyard pushed ahead and has completed the Port & Starboard Swivel Gun Stocks. Although in the haste, forgot to drill the holes in the top to mount the little cannon. Bad boy ! I'm happy they have come up ok. Pat. thanks for that PVA glue tip. I used a 50/50(PVA/water) mix that disappeared quickly(absorbed), and dry quickly. I have not painted the cardboard. Onto making the hinge sets for the aft cabin side shutters. Then will glue the decal on. Slow and steady... Dave R
  14. Hi Michael, Great progress, going well. One thing that I really regret in the early stages was NOT paying attention to the exact alignment of the frames, to make sure each was 90 deg to the keel, not twisted. e.g. some of mine were just a wee bit out(twisted) makes a difference to the hull shape, and later I noticed this when taking dimensions of them. If I were doing another hull, at the stage you are at, I'd place "blocks" between each frame equal to the distance at the keel. I did a quick sketch to show this. Picture better than words sometimes. They would also stiffen up the hull. The transom on my Corel Endeavour was out 1mm out as well. I didn't notice it till well into the planking. Not very noticeable, but peeved I did not pick it up earlier. Hope the planking goes well. Dave R
  15. Had the shipyard working on the Swivel Gun Stocks. The Starboard ones made and fitted. I used black card(idea from another post) to simulate the metal straps. Each was Super glued to the stock, as each wrapped around. I will follow on after the black painting by impregnating the card with the Super Glue to harden it up(hopefully from deteriating). Well I hope that will work. Dave R
  16. Hi All, I made the trip to Sydney early this week to see the Endeavour at the Maritime Museum at Darling harbour. I had planned/booked to join the Endeavour as crew for the 10 day Sydney to Brisbane Voyage, but the trip was cancelled. So having the flight booked. I flew down and spent quiet some time on board, taking pictures, talking to the volunteers and generally getting the feel of the boat. It was a weird feeling, as after building the model to date, I felt at ease on board, that I was kind of home. Weird eh! Had a great visit. Dave R
  17. Welcome ca.shipwright to the Endeavour builder's club. You will find many logs of the Endeavour on this site. I am well into the HMB Endeavour Corel Kit 1:60 - well the hull at least. My log is in this forum, have a look if you like, I have posted a lot of pictures and steps, as have others. I was not too impressed with the instructions or the metal parts in the Corel Kit. Basically tossed them and using Karl Marquardt's "Anatomy Of The Ship " and crafting the wooden parts from scratch. Happy to chat how your build goes along the way. Dave R
  18. Hi Greg, I lost track of the hours on the ports. And still to make 10 of the smaller vertical hinges for the last lot, well I need to get my head in the right spot to do them. The mid sized ones should open. However since I didn't/haven't "pinned" the flaps to the timber, the glue joint comes apart if too much pressure applied. So they look like they open, they should, but I won't try them. Hi Jason, I had a couple of earlier problems with the Walnut splitting, esp. the tight bends. Lots of wetting and steaming was done. Just used what was supplied in the Kit. Dave R
  19. Bit more work at the Shipyard. Chess Trees added. I could not source a 3.0mm dia. 1mm thick sheave, so filed down a 4mm dia. to suit. The first picture I previously posted showing the laminated CT. Other 2 Port & Starboard on the hull. Dave R
  20. Back on deck SMs. One left hand coming along slowly after the cut(Carpal T). Just takes time to heal, otherwise raring to go. Had to do something though: Installed the Airing Ports I had made some time ago. Very fiddly work being so small. Dave R
  21. HOF, The decking has come up a treat. Nice looking treenail system. Dave R
  22. HOF, What no treenails(pegs) over the deck.? The build is looking good mate. Dave R
  23. PaulV, Went fully under. Split next week. Hope I am not out of action for too long. Dave R
  24. Thanks for looking in on the build log from my shipyard guys. Your likes and comments encourage me. Not much going on this weekend, I have a volunteer job at a canteen I a run for a Rugby carnival. Then Wednesday have a Carpal Tunnel Op on the left hand. That may slow me up a bit for work on the Endeavour for a while as well. Plenty of time to plan work ahead though. Dave R
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