DaveRow

An update to work on the stern Flag Boxes(I believe they are called) Probably used for storing flags and assorted attachments. I thought I'd run a bit of a log on the process I use to make the hinges through to end. I don;t know how some of you modelers make things so small. This is how I do it. Lets start with the plan on the rear deck, the starboard flag box highlighted(from the AOTS): Create and fix in place port and starboard box frames for the lids to fix to: The lids; I made the lid/frame from left over 1mm planks: Selected a purchased hinge to bash into a smaller version for this application. Hinges bashed - grind and filed thinner. The end of each curved to allow a thin bar(actually a model railway pin - so very thin) to pass through as a hinge pinion(is that the correct word?). Blackened and CA/glued to hatches. Make some very small pins(from the railway pin heads) Craft some eyelets(fairly rough but you do not see them in the end really) Loose fix the pins & eyelets to the hatches: After touching up the black, gluing in place, ended up like.... A couple of coats of clear, should bring the timber grain out and onto the flag pole fixtures. Updated - coat of clear. Dave R

Progressing well Chris, Glad you are going to the trouble of dropped and splined planks. Makes the planking look original, and after sanding + clear, will look a treat. Dave R

Chris(Cabbie) Only 7 pair, you must be nearly finished. I have plenty to do mate. Thanks for the offer though. I still have the rear corner deck lockers and the smallest light port hinges on the port and starboard side of the hull. They are very small. Will have to do them before my eyesight fads, the way I feel with all the detail ahead of me. Back to rustle some feathers in the shipyard. Dave R

Hi Mr Slog, I had not forgotten the quadrant bracket, I had enough of this little item, spent so many hours on it, called it quits. Dave R

Hi All, Well my shipyard has finally started back from the Xmas break. Has been into action constructing the Companion Hatch. At the scale of 1:60, sure is fiddly timber work and fabricating more hinges. I laminated the sides, to have side cut-outs(red boxes). Unfortunately, the pictures do not show how close the arms of the capstan mix(just clash) with the top hinges. I'll probably lower the lower hatch a bit so it clears. Onto ?, always something else to build. Dave R

Going well mate. Gets more interesting the further the planks go up. Dave R

Dashi, I believe you may be referring to the planking going past bulkhead 10 to the bow ?. It "covers" runs past the small set of stairs each side, between the mid and aft decks. If this is right, just run the 2nd planks past and add lime planks inside later. Trim with the gunwhale. Thats what I ended up doing. run them past longer than you need and trim back. Dave R

Hi there Mr Dashi. You have made a good start to the model. The planking is a challenge, esp. to the bluff bow. For details check out other Endeavour logs. Plenty on this site. I'll be looking in from time to time to see how your shipyard is performing. Dave R

Hi guys Remember their are no exact plans of the HMB Endeavour. Whether the actual vessel had a 44' or 34' bowsprit ? By posting the above, I am interested in others views or other information available to support a bowsprit length. I am inclined to construct a 44' bowsprit because: a) I have not done the rigging yet in my limited knowledge of the period, I can only go by evidence available c) Functionslly, design wise, a 44' bowsprit would be likely d) but the bowsprit may of been shorter for a reason we do not know about. I wouldn't go changing it it was already built. I am fairly sure I will go for the longer, as my build is my interpretation of the Endeavour. Dave R

Good start on the 2nd layer planking Chris, After I tapered and beveled the edges of a plank... oh memories.... I used steam after soaking for a lot of my 2nd layer planks. I held the plank in place while it cooled down, worked good enough for me. Dave R

Hi all Model Endeavour shipbuilders. My shipyard has not started back to work yet in 2016. Something about, school has not started back yet. However I have been reviewing the documentation I gathered some while ago on the Endeavour, related to the masts/rigging. I found a report a Mr Ross Shardlow(artist) prepared some time ago(1994) relating to the Replica of the Endeavour. It dealt with “a Case for a Taller Mizen Mast” and also a case for “a Longer Bowsprit”. Whilst the report Ross prepared related to what some may say "shortcomings" of the Replica, it does way into some interesting design aspects of what we all construct. And I like details.. Have some of you seen this report. ? “a Case for a Taller Mizen Mast” I have no doubt most of the models we are constructing have the taller Mizen mast – some 10ft taller than the Replica. The Mizen cap is at approx. the same height of the Main top. This is what is indicted in Karl Marquardt ‘s “Endeavour, Anatomy of The Ship”. “a Longer Bowsprit”. The sketch below shows the Endeavour Replica with a 34’ Bowsprit. This is similar to that which Karl Marquardt indicates in the “Anatomy of The Ship”. The AOTS takes the Woolich Yard bowsprit length as measured from the Fore topsail sheet bits forward to the head. I believe that is correct. However the run of stays forward to the bowsprit are not straight. Ross however puts a case forward for a longer Bowsprit of 44’, whereby the jibboom can be run and housed in a conventional manner. We are also told there is a relationship between the bowsprit and Jibboom with ships of the erea. So the Sailplan with a 44’ Bowsprit would look like. Ross Shardlow mentions a couple of possibly reasons why the bowsprit is at 34’. How the bowsprit spare was possibly measured from the knighthead or rot around the stem head. However the compelling facts for a longer bowsprit for me are: 1. Having the ability for the jibboom to be housed fully on the bowsprit Fig 22; 2. Steel’s list a 44’ bowsprit, matches the 19 5/8” diameter of the Woolwich Yard bowsprit diameter; 3. The run of stays from the main topmast crosstrees, through the foretop(foremast) to the bowsprit is the conventional arrangement Fig 27. 4. A longer bowsprit is indicated in several engravings and depicted by Sydney Parkinson in his sketches; 5. The headsails would be further foreward, better for running with the wind. So what to do ? A 43’ Bowsprit (an extra 10’ = 50mm at 1:60 scale), this may not be too bad. Dave R

Ca.shipwright Those deck plank joints are "hooked scarf" joints. I made a good template of the joint, then used it to cut with a surgical scalpel each joint. Dave R

Thanks Greg/Pat, I meant that the position where I have set the bumpkins up is where they are fitted. Agree I need to set them up so they can be removed for Anchor work. As always, thanks for your valued comments guys. I am away over in the west, "Fremantle" for a week, plan to look in on the Maritime Museums over there. Dave R

Hi Greg, The bowsprit just clears over the bracket. I curved the end(today) so it clears. I should of had the bracket a little further forward. Where the bumpkins are, they stay, already grooved the vertical timber. I laid them in like on the AOTS deck layout. But I see your point, the anchor ropes may foul them.? Dave R

Hello ca.shipwright, Look at my post #90 it shows a number of them on the deck. The AOTS has them indicated on one of the deck plans in the book. Also I visited the Edwin Fox in Picton(NZ) March 2015, and saw original internal hull planking had the same scarf design. I nearly fell over backwards when I saw it. I had a mate of mine with me, he is a boat builder and he says he knew of this type of joint, he had never had to make one in his carrier. Dave R

I try to tinker every day or 2 to keep her moving along. All the best for 2016 Dave R

Hi Pat, Congratulations on the step to retire. A well earned cold one Not an easy decision these days to retire. May your shipyard, shipbuilding provide much enjoyment. Push the Endeavour along and get her finished, she looks great. Dave R

Nice detail mate. Nothing better to do over the Xmas break eh! . Dave R

Latest shipyard update: Decided the mid hatch would be a simple hinged flat one over the opening. I added a combining about the outer edges, give it some functionality, maybe it did have an outer edge so things did not roll off. One of the larger section raised for the crew to slip under decks. Dave R

Shipyard Update. The 2 bumpkins made and in place. I laminated 2 pieces of flat timbers then rounded each for final shape. The end housing on the deck is from: - timber base - cardboard inverted "U" over and - brass boxes(for the ends to fit into) I wound some rope around the end to stop the bumpkin sliding back. Hope I got it all right. May have the deck block a bit too far back though - fouls the/a straight bowsprit ? If I curve/bend the bowsprit will just clear over it. Dave R

Hi Steve, I have no doubt there was an "arch" on the end of the tiller, as the draughts indicate. I had a look at several other builds, most vary to some extent. Some appear that the rope would fowl the vent. I agree the tiller/blocks like the AOTS would not work. A quandary. Dave R

Merry Xmas all, To mark the occasion I commissioned the shipyard to stain the hull bottom, below the waterline. The effect to show the hull in contact with the the water in a brown-ish color. Dave R

Out of the Shipyard talk. I got sidetracked and went down to the stern to make: 1. platform over the rudder tiller. 2. the rudder tiller. The Platform did not take too long to make, but I did want it to clear the tiller - just. I blackened 5 brass stanchions which will all be glued in place, rope strung when all the deck "goodies" are done and a massive "fitting day". The Rudder Tiller took longer to make/fit, well to mortise into the rudder. I reckon it took a good 2.5hrs to widdle, drill, shave, my way through to get a firm fit, and doesn't move when fully in. And by some luck sweeps up/tapered just like in AOTS. Very happy with the out come. I am really struggling with the practicality of the "arch" on the end of the tiller. We can see that the "arch" was probably added to extend the tiller over the fireplace flue. For extra leverage ? or maybe to exclude access to the flue when hot ? However, by attaching the tiller ropes to the "arch" end, I can see the ropes fowling the flue when the tiller is hard over either way. The ropes would need to be high enough to clear over the flue, and kept taught enough. I am temped to not add the "arch" and have a double purchase at the end of the tiller. Ray Parkins book, it is not consistently shown. What to do ?? So by my reckoning, I am am on target to have all the deck finished by the 2 year anniversary of the build - that being 28 April 2016. Dave R

OMG so so cool Alexandru. I'd go blind working all that detail in. Dave R

Hi Chris, I believe you're on the right track. My first planking layer, I dropped planks as in the picture below. I had never planked a model when I did my first layer, so as you have, tried it out for practice for the 2nd layer. Some of the 1st layer I just tapered, but it did provide what I was in for with the 2nd layer. So the second layer I ended up with dropped and steelers, as the shape chnages to the stern. I rebated the planks into the keel, so it(keel) remained at 5mm - I think it is. Keep the good work up Chris, coming along nice. Dave R