DaveRow
-
Posts
677 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by DaveRow
-
Robin and Jud, I do not really know what color the glass was on the 1770's Endeavour for sure. Can either point to a definitive source. ? I did a bit of looking about to when navigational lighting on ships came into effect. Establishment of British legislationIn 1840 appeared the first rules on lights and traffic at sea. The 19th century also saw the first regulations on navigation at sea. Around 1840, with the earliest steamships, a number of nations became concerned about what steps could be taken to avoid collisions and shipwrecks. At the time, each of them acted separately. No ships carried navigation lights, except warships travelling in squadron by night. Whenever two vessels approached each other, it was customary to show one's presence by hoisting a flag or lighting a flare. British ships applied the signalling rules proposed by W.D, Evans, regarded as the father of present-day regulations. Source: http://www.imo.org/en/KnowledgeCentre/ReferencesAndArchives/HistoryofSafetyatSea/Documents/P.%20Boisson%20History%20of%20safet%20at%20sea%20extract.htm#_Toc516043734 Red usually means danger, if I was riding up to red light at night at sea, I'd be watching out close to see what it was or keep clear. Dave R -
Dash, I have much the same, although after reading Shardlow report, Steel's Rigging, AOTS, Parkin, other MSW build logs, the Replica build, I came up with below. Will review after I get the main hull done(before the mast/rigging stage) Dave R
-
Shipyard Design Time. If you have a look at my Build Log Post # 286, you will see the case for a 10' longer Bowsprit for the Endeavour. I won't go into all the details, though it dealt a report Mr Ross Shardlow(artist) prepared some time ago(1994) relating to the Replica of the Endeavour. It put a forward “a case for a Taller Mizen Mast” and also a case for “a Longer Bowsprit”. It as all covered back in this Build Log #286. I believe Mr Shardlow was correct, the evidence indicates the Endeavour had an ~ 44' Bowsprit, during Cook's first Journey of discovery of Australia. Well me and the team have been working on how this can be implemented. The plan below shows the outcome(what we will aim for) - somewhat away from the AOTS in a couple of ways. 2 x Bob-stays will run up to the 2 Forestay psoitions(like on the Replica @ AMM). Why have a backup Forestay and not a Bobstay ? The 2 x Fore-stays are further forward, anchored to the Bowsprit, so that they are in line with the "Main Topmast Stay"(so the longitudinal forces are in line, no vertical force to the Fore Mast if not in line) Will be working out how the Jib Boom can be run back and housed in a conventional manner ~ 13 feet and miss Fore Stays(rigging). This apparently was done in bad weather so the Jib Boom was not snapped off - as it hangs out a long way. Other aspects remain similar, cleats, blocks etc. Lets get started. PS. In sailing terms, moving the fore sails out/away from under the blanket of the Fore-Mast sails makes sense. Feel free to add your thoughts. Dave R
-
Dashi, You mentioned "Next is to briefly soak and shape each channel to match the curve of the sheer strake and then decide whether to butt them on the sheer strake of check them into it?" I made a set of wider channels with new chain plate positions as well. I also built a a rebate into the sheer stake to let the channels in, much stronger than butting. Since you have already "thinned" them down, you may not want to reduce further as the stays may not be far enough out from the side to miss the top rail. Decisions ? Coming together well in your shipyard. Dave R
-
Hi Mike, Let know when you run out of desk space for your build. I extended my space 3 times now, so much bits and bobs gathered for the build. And that is not counting the shed machinery. Dave R
-
Hi Bryan, Just found your log on the Victory Bow section. What a fabulous effort you have put in. How you got all the decks fitted out ? magical. Dave R
- 77 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- cross-section
- hms victory
- (and 2 more)
-
Hi Mr Dash, Deck fit-out coming along very well indeed. Particularly like your hatch covers. Dave R
-
Great effort Ron, Some really great details and overall looks like she would sail on water. Have a deserved break, then into another ?? Dave R
-
Welcome aboard the Endeavour Shipbuilder's Club Mike. My best advice, that I received at the start of my build, was to see what others have done. Search the "Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS" for HMB Endeavour, and go through other logs. You'll pick up a lot of info, tips and instructions and "how too's". Don't hesitate to contact us. Will always try to help out. Dave R
-
Stern window detail looks good Chris. Are you planning shutters over them ? Dave R
-
Quick Shipyard Update. Added the 5 smaller Airing Ports to both Port and Starboard sides of the hull. Fiddly little items("U" shape ones), been dreading making them and I was right(so fiddly). Starboard Side: Dave R
-
Looking fantastic their Ron. Will seem all worth it soon, when the final touches are added. Dave R
-
Someone has crafty hands. Excellent workmanship. Dave R
-
Back in the Shipyard. I started assembling the Rudder tackle, just by fingers, and the first 3 pulleys took me hours to complete. So I decided to construct a Rigging Station. I must thank Pat(Banyan) for showing us all his station in his log, as it has provided me with inspiration and ideas for my own. It enabled me to quickly assemble my blocks for the rudder steering tackle. I was planning on using some small rings I had purchased, but when I tried to weld them closed, too thin and not a good result(only managed 1 good one out of 4 so gave up). So I made my own out of copper wire(I will use the best circular ones, a couple not the best) The completed assembly of the rudder steering tackle on my Endeavour. I have gone away somewhat from the AOTS, in so far I have attached the tackle back from the raised tiller. I believe the steering tackle is best behind the chimney stack to ensure it does not fowl such. The raised arm on the end of the tiller,(as indicated on the drafts) existed, however was probably their for the crew to manually assist the rudder(to push or pull as it is at a height to do so) movement. I also added extra purchase on the rear line. This would, IMHO "ease" the load on the steering wheel, via the pulley purchase. Dave R
-
Hi Clogger, I have enclosed a document on the planking on the Australian replica Endeavour. Probably too late for your planking, but you can see how traditional 2nd planks were run. As Allan has mentioned, there are great planking tutorials on this site that will help you as you gain experience. Also search on this site through the logs, and have a look at how other Endeavour builders have done there planking. Before I do any design/building, I search to see how others have done things, decide if I will do similar, or alter for my own design. Dave R Bluff Bow Planking.pdf
-
Stern Lantern, My Endeavour's Lantern is going to be black with red light panels. To carry on from the previous Lantern post. Over the last couple of days the shipyard cleaned up the "gold" kit lantern by filing off as much of the gold plating as possible(very fiddly and took hours), fitted the 6 red light panels(each was different as the casting was not consistent) and re-aligned the top hat piece(that was glued on lop sided). Some touch-up paint at a later stage required. Another item out of the way. It has been just on 2 years since the laying of the keel. I had aimed to have the "hull" completed in this time frame, however close, there remains a few more features for the shipyard to complete before the rigging begins. There seems to be no end of "things to make". As the avid model boat builder will know, time is of no consequence when the attention to detail and scale is paramount to the end product. I hope I am achieving this. I was gifted a birthday present(that my captain/wifey) of Lennarth Petersson's "Rigging Period Ship Models", which I am sure will aid in the tasks ahead. Back to having fun. Dave R
-
Exactly. Although "in the block" they were pretty good blackened, I painted with enamel. So to be consistent, I will enamel paint all the metal on my Endeavour, earlier items and those to be made. Dave R
-
Hi Chris, Blackening: Same process that I have seen here in MSW by others. I clean up the metal with Hydrochloric Acid(50% pool acid). Sometimes I use a small file to clean up glue or rub off other paint etc to a bare metal surface. I dip the metal item/s into a small amount and roll them around. Let them sit for a couple of minutes. Wash in water and dry. Then dip in the Birchwood Casey Brass Black for a few minutes. Clean the item up and dip again few a few more minutes. Sometimes if first dip is good enough, I touch up with a cotton bud the areas not transformed so well. Clean up in water and rub the blackened areas bets as you can. However even though all the above may work well ?; - sometimes a soldered area does not take the blackening well. - I get pitted or small areas that does not take the blackening(probably not originally not cleaned well enough) - due to fitting an item, it gets scratched. So I usually thin some Matt Black Enamel paint, and apply over the blackening with an even coat as best as possible. If I miss a bit, hardly shows up, as blackening is under it. Good thing is, any fine edges that are blackened, I don't paint and get a pretty good finish overall. Cheats way ? Some of my early blackening, I just did one dip and is shotty. Slowly going over these with the enamel method. Recent blackening is getting better. The last lantern frame was pretty good, except the brass washers didn't take the blackening(probably because I CA tacked them on the rod, and glue doesn't take to the blackening at all - surprised not). And the rod I used was piano wire, that took the casey's brass black really well, but I painted it over to give it a good cover being ferrous iron metal, not brass. Sins I hide. Sometimes I think making it all evenly black, it is fake, should of left it just blackened and slightly varied. Time will tell if the enamel will flake off, hope blood..y not ? Bit of a ramble, but fessed up to what works and not for me. Sleep time. Dave R
-
Thanks Greg, Still getting the hang of working the resistance welding kit. Though I am happy I can get a decent metal to metal joint now. Flame and hand soldering wasn't cutting it. Dave R
-
Today, Maybe not the place here(sorry Admin), however here in "Aussie"(and New Zealand), it is ANZAC Day, to commemorate the day the Australian and New Zealander's landed on the Gallipoli Peninsula on a small beach we now call ANZAC Cove. The day is also a time to remember all those who have given the ultimate sacrifice to afford the freedom we today live under. Lest we forget. After attending a couple of services this morning, my Shipyard is back at it. Been working on the Lantern support frame, > has been forged at the foundry, some rod and tubing to make a frame to mount the Lantern from the Kit. Not sure the 'Kit' Lantern is the right one too use, as I see many different types on the Endeavour models. Started out with a set-out of the upper arms welded to a tube(to house the Lantern) Set-out: Welded: Forgot to take more pictures.... Trial fitting to see how the frame looks in position: Blackened and painted frame with Lantern to see how it all looks. Just not to sure if I have it all right though. May of made the frame hang too far back? The supplied 'Kit Lantern' is: - pretty big, but seems to be comparative to the AOTS size. - the Lantern is a different design(hexagon not octagon) to the AOTS and has "red glass". - and the lantern cap/top is at an angle(if you look close). Typical of a lot of the kit supplied items, rough as... May need to bash it about to see if I can make it look half decent ! Some things to sort out. Dave R
-
Pat, I'm still learning the art of Resistance Welding. Main thing is to have clean, very clean tips to make the metal contact. Then the surfaces to be clean. Working on the solder to use. Dave R
-
Hi Chris, Nice, really nice work on the planking. No painting below the wales, I didn't on mine, comes up good with clear and shows the those joints that took so long to 'cut in'. Keep up the great work. Dave R
-
Hi Pat, Those spares look really good mate. Something for us other boat builders to go by. With winter coming on, plenty of time for 'indoor' work on the boat. Dave R
- 517 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
