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DaveRow

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Everything posted by DaveRow

  1. Thanks Fernando, Pat and Rod for looking in recently. This rigging stage is quiet testing on the hands skills, and I just do a bit at a time.
  2. Shipyard Update: Main & Fore Main Yards Been a little while for a post. I made the Main and Fore yards, what seems a long time ago. I added the studdingsail booms and game each a coat of clear varnish. Set each up with the Parrel. Also added the Outer Tricing Line now, to cut down the "tweezer in the air" duel. Hoisting the Fore Yard up into position. Used a electrical clip to hold the Parrel rope ends tight while the glue dries. Added the Lifts in this Pic. Back of the Parrels (Main ones in this shot/Pic) Fore Mast Yard: Bit tricky, but I got the Jeer halyard through the Sheeve in the Bit. The hole and sheeve I had allowed some years ago, was just big enough. I ended up using CA on the end 10mm of the halyard, let it dry then tapered it so I could feed it in through the bit shaft. Was then able to pull the halyard though. Main Mast Yard: Jeer halyard through the Sheeve in the Bit.
  3. Shipyard Update: Lifts, Braces & Reef Tackle to the Upper Yards Main and Fore TopGallant & Topsail Yards Mizzen Topsail & Crossjack So the boys in the shipyard have been busy adding the Lifts & Braces to the above, along with some Reef Tackle pendant & falls(to the Topsail Yards) Some blocks were already on the mats(e.g. for the Main Topsail braces on the Mizzen) Many have been added by making single or double sets in 3mm, 4mm or 5mm blocks. The Topgallant in 3mm Topsail in 4mm and the Main Yards will have the 5mm blocks. Below are 4mm and 5mm sets Below are various shots of the recent additions: Fore Topsail Yard with Lifts, Reef Tackle & Braces back to the Main Mast, Main Stay Main TopGallant braces back to the Mizzen Main Topsail Yard with Lifts, Reef Tackle & Braces Mizzen Topsail yard Lifts in the background. Mizzen Topsail Yard with Lifts & Braces back to the end of the Gaff. Gaff with Lift. Main Mast Cross Trees: 3mm single blocks added for the Fore Topgallant braces which run down the Stay to 2 more blocks(below shot) 2 x 3mm single blocks added to the Main Topmast Stay, where the Fore Topgallant braces run down to cleat - on side of Bell Belfry. Fore Topsail Braces back to the Main Mast, Main Stay Main Mast, Main Stay blocks(in RED) 4mm for the Fore Topsail braces. Additionally have already added(in Blue) a 5mm for the Fore Yard braces. Mizzen Mast: over the Crossjack are the pendent for the Main Topsail braces(in RED). Crossjack pendent blocks(in BLUE) for the braces(in GREEN) which run froward to the Main Mast rear Shroud Mizzen Topmast, 2 x 3mm blocks added to forward shroud for the Main TopGallant braces to run down. Fore Mast TopGallant Yard braces back to the Main Mast, Stay blocks. Port Main Shroud Cleats: Braces are tied off to the cleats on the shrouds. Bit messy, a lot of cleanup to do down the track. I added another set of cleats on the rear(6th) shroud for the Crossjack Yard brace. Starboard Fore Mast shrouds: Cleats for braces. I added another set of cleats on the rear(6th) shroud. you can see the different lashing used. Bottom of the Mizzen Mast, cleats filling up. Next will probably add the 2 Main yards.
  4. Hi Blacky, Looks pretty dam good that 2nd planking. A sand should bring it up nicely. Looks like you will glue the Wales over this layer ? Not sure for the OcCre Kit, the channels on my Corel kit(not that it was that great for details) and AoTS show a thicker timbers, the same depth as the channels, in line for the 3 x channels per side. How you going to attach them ?
  5. Shipyard Update: Top Gallant Yards for Main and Fore Masts. Got the boys to hoist the Top"G" Yards. Each had: - brace arm at each end with a toggle hole - Sling Parrel: the "loop" end was lashed onto the yard before the fitment to the mast-top - one of the horses was attached both sends(onto the sling-parrel loop and outer yard end) - the other horse just to the outer yard end, the inner end of the horse attached to the lashing end of the sling-parrel - the halyard with double block run through the back of block under the hounds Above: Fore Top Gallant Yard in place Above: Main Top Gallant Yard in place Above: Top Gallant Yard - middle of the yard with Sling-Parrel, horses and halyard attached. Above: Top Gallant Yard Halyard - each as a block and tackle, 3mm double block attached to the lower end of the halyard, tackle with a 3mm single block with hook at the bottom to an eye bolt into the Mast Top. the tackle rope down to Mast Bits. Above: Halyard Belaying - tied off to the middle of the Mast Bits(Main and Fore) to Belay Pin. What a job that was. Onto Main Yards. Had them made months ago, time to get them on I suppose.
  6. Shipyard Update: After some time fiddling about, I came up with Anchors, Bumpkin and Fish Davit on the Starboard Bow - below. All just sitting there, not glued in place yet, as not sure or happy with the layout. And I'm confident I can postpone the final arrangement, continue rigging and fit this lot later on towards the end. So all coming off and going into storage. Move onto the Main and Fore TopGallant >> Yards.
  7. Thanks for looking in Pat, Not sure about "nearly there now". So many more blocks and ropes to go.
  8. Shipyard Update: Change of tack. Back in early to mid 2016 I made the Anchors and Bumpkins and Fish Davits. Before I potentially "lock myself out"(access), thought it time to fit the above on the bow area before ropes and other work is done. So Rope added to the Main anchors and a final coat of matt varnish. Will be attaching the above to the Bow next, along with the smaller 2 Anchors.
  9. Shipyard Update: Mizzen TopSail Yard. Previously I made reference for the above as the Mizzen TopGallant Yard, which was wrong. I had also made the yard as a TopGallant, which has been rectified. Below are pictures of the new fit-out. Fitting the blocks and ropes to the Topsail Yard. Above: Left to Right > Yardarm Lift Block, Tye-Block(Clew blocks at sides), Parrel being added. TopSail Yard in place with Yards and Tye lifts. Main TopGallant brace Blocks added, tied to the front Shroud(either side) Plenty more for the shipyard to get no with. Chop Chop.
  10. Blacky, Their is a saying the final paint job is only as good as the preparation underneath. So my suggestions are: - Check the hull is fair, all even curves - no dips as these will show up on the final skin - fill any dips, sand any highs if enough "meat" to fair it out - plan out how you are going to lay the planks from bow to stern. Lining out the widths and where you are going to show the joins - their is a lot of tapering of planks, dropped strakes(planks at bow) and new ones to add in(Steelers, usually aft) - do not force a plank into place, each should lay in the space - bevel at least one(1) edge(top) so no gap exists when they laid down Confused, ? i was, but plenty of reading, prep. will help and get you their.
  11. Shipyard Update: We have moved onto the Mizzen Gaff and TopGallant Yard. The Gaff has a number of blocks and slings on it, all providing the hoisting, Vang, bracing to the TopGallant yard, Brails to the sail. Below is Gaff nearly ready to hoist to the Mizzen. Below picture of the components added to the Gaff: Fitting the Parrell to the Gaff beak. Top the 4mm JeerBlock and below the 2 x 3mm Throat Brails Mid and Peak Brails Blocks 3mm Derrick Block(4mm) Gaff Paek; a lot of ropes and blocks attach to the end. Mizzen Topsail Yard Braces(2 x 3mm) topside Fancy Line blocks(2 x 3mm) underneath Vangs Slings(2) Peak/Derrick halyard(1) - single lighter rope on top Derrick 4mm DoubleBlock is lashed to the Mizzen-cap Halyard through the Derrick Blocks(4mm) JeerBlock(4mm) with sling, around and under the Mizzen Cap. The AoTS had a fixed sling for this. I replaced it with Jeer Blocks like the Replica has. Made sense so the Gaff can be raised more easily. Vang - lower 4mm blocks with hooks Vangs(2) falls fitted to end of Gaff to eye-bolts in the quarters TopGallant Tye fall: top end rope runs through a hole under the shrouds with a 3mm double block(top red arrow), lower end 3mm block hooked into an eye-bolt(lower red arrow) The Mizzen Mast base - Halyards and Jeers running through blocks Bit of tidying up to do, but nearly their. Add the Fancy and Brails lines. All up it's taken me a couple of weeks on/off to get it all together.
  12. Thanks for looking in Rod, I have learn't so much during my build, with many thanks go to others who have shared ideas and techniques. To give back I do the same, in hope it is worthwhile for others for their builds.
  13. Hi Rod, Your Endeavour is coming along very nice indeed. I keep an eye out for updates all the time.
  14. Hi Vin, Just found your build log. Going well. Will keep a sailors eye out on it. Sent you a PM re the blocks.
  15. Hi Blacky, I can see the planks appear not to have any tapering in them ! Being the first layer, not really have to be. However in my opinion by staggering and running the planks bow to stern, the model will get a nice even hull shape. A couple of articles for interest I gathered, explain the planking techniques used if you wish to have a read whilst on holidays. The "Bluff Bow Planking" is actually an article based on the build of the Australian replica of the HMB Endeavour. The others, a general how to plank. My Endeavour was the first time I had planked a hull. So I used the first layer as a trial run, before the second planking layer. Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf Planking Project Beginners.pdf Bluff Bow Planking.pdf
  16. Hi Blacky, Although still working on the hull, you are probably at the point of considering on what your model is going to look like when finished. Whilst some timbers are left clear varnish/lacquer, other may be painted blue, yellow, red or black seem to be the most common for the Endeavour. For my Endeavour: I stained the underside of the hull to waterline, applying a coat of clear lacquer. It is great to show off one's workmanship and leave some items timber grain/color, maybe with a touch of paint. Some timbers painted black, as long as the grain is tight, comes out looking nice. Some doesn't matter as they are painted over with a scheme of colors. I purchased extra timber strips to make a lot if items as they wore not provided in my kit. For inspiration. Have a look at other Endeavour's on the site, see what finishes have been used. Hope you don't mind my rambling on.
  17. Hey Rod, I used to use a lot of CA glue on the rope rigging. But it does dry brittle. Can be dissolved with Acetone, but tricky to use. I now use mostly a 50/50 PVA/water mix. It tales a little while to dry, but looks better. Still can dissolve with water later if needed. Build coming along nicely.
  18. Hi Blakey, Good to see another Endeavour underway. Lots of other builds to refer too on this site if you need help with the finer details. Will pull up a chair and keep an eye on your build log. All the best.
  19. Very neat work on the Anchors Pat. Your skills are really been honed on this this project.
  20. Shipyard Update: The shipyard has been on a go slow. Too many distractions for the owner(me). Managed to get the Top Gallant Shrouds and Backstays on Fore and Main Masts. Pre-rigged the above onto the Top Gallant mast sections. Then fitted onto the respective Top Masts. Below: 1 set of two(2) Top Gallants for Main and Fore Masts. Below: Pictures of shrouds tied to Top Mast stays. Below: Mast Backstay Tackle Also have now rigged all 4 of the Top Mast Tackles to the channels. Each Picture has location on it. Next to finish the Fore Top Gallant Shrouds. So much fun tying these in mid air, keeping the mast vertical and shroud tensions the same.
  21. Shipyard Update: The shipyard has been at it again. Some progress that is. We have started the Fore Top Mast Backstay Tackles. Below: Mast Backstay Tackle from AoTS: Above: is the diagram from the AoTS, depicting the bottom of a Mast Backstay > can be tightened via a tackle attached to 2 Dead-eye below the channel. And below the tackle setup for the Starboard ForeMast Backstay Tackle. These Backstays have been hanging about for several months now, waiting to be finished(tackled !!) off. Not sure of the knots to the dead-eye below the channel, used half hitch on the front and bowline on the rear. A couple of pictures of making the blocks. Tackle: I used a Double Block for the top, only as the rope starts from the bottom block up and goes that way twice. Tackle: The lower block I used a single bock with a loop in the rope around a rod to simulate a "thimble" to attach the tackle rope. 3 more to go.
  22. Shipyard Update: The shipyard has been a little busier. We have fitted the Fore Top Gallant Shrouds, but lower ends not tied off yet. Same for the Main Top Gallant Shroud lower ends. Just cannot get into it at the moment so... Fore Top Gallant Stay: I made the Stay off Mast, Top end Loop larger to fit over the Mast Cap Above: Using 0.45mm rope I made the Loop which goes around the TG Mast, above the Shrouds. I leave a length of the wrapping thread to close up the gap to the mast. See below. Above: Stay in place with further wraps of the thread to close the gap to the mast, then 50/50 PVA water over the lot. Above: Stay to the end of the Boom Jib. Above: End is lashed between 2 thimbles as per above, detail from the AoTS. Need to get the left thimble tied around the Fore Stay Boom Lashing. Above: Lashing under & between the red arrows. Above: Which, with a bit of luck managed to sneak a rope under and attached to Thimble. Above: ForeTopGallantMastStay end lashing. Tip: take the stay loop end(top) off the mast and do the thimble end lashing before fitting it all. Lots more to do.
  23. Thanks Greg. Feels like it may be a long way off yet. Hoping it will all be dusted by end of this year.
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