Piet

Thanks everyone for your comments and likes.  Comments and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.  
 
I think I have a plan for the soldering process and will show it when I'm all set up for it.  It won't be a "lazy susan" kind of fixture though, although that sounds intriguing.
 
Thanks Hans for your accolades.  Yes, I know you love these types of ships and so do i.  Your comment on the paint is right on.  I had already in mind changing it to a more fitting green from that era.  I have learned a few things since I put this model aside in favor of finishing the O19 model.  I'm now 2 1/2 years further from the point I stopped.  What I learned is that most of the exterior green was "Spaans groen" (Spanish green).  I have no clue how that looks like but I'll come up with a nice mix or ready-made color.  I have plenty of Grumbacher oil paints and will try to match the old green color.  Somewhere I have do have a print-ou tof the color that was prevalent in the mid to late 17th century.  The final paint type will most likely be in acrylic polymer because that's what's on there now.  
 
No, we didn't have the time to visit the Batavia Werf and several other things I was looking forward to like Enkhuizen, Hoorn and Durgerdam. 
 
Well, today I spend more time in making hardware and drilling holes to cement the hardware in.  I'll use the slow curing two part epoxy cement for this.  That way I can mix a batch without it timing out on me.  I'm also getting prepped on making the single and double sheave pulleys.  No, I'm not going to buy them, maybe later when I have to make a gezillion of them for the running rigging.
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Thanks everyone for your comments and likes.  Comments and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.  
 
I think I have a plan for the soldering process and will show it when I'm all set up for it.  It won't be a "lazy susan" kind of fixture though, although that sounds intriguing.
 
Thanks Hans for your accolades.  Yes, I know you love these types of ships and so do i.  Your comment on the paint is right on.  I had already in mind changing it to a more fitting green from that era.  I have learned a few things since I put this model aside in favor of finishing the O19 model.  I'm now 2 1/2 years further from the point I stopped.  What I learned is that most of the exterior green was "Spaans groen" (Spanish green).  I have no clue how that looks like but I'll come up with a nice mix or ready-made color.  I have plenty of Grumbacher oil paints and will try to match the old green color.  Somewhere I have do have a print-ou tof the color that was prevalent in the mid to late 17th century.  The final paint type will most likely be in acrylic polymer because that's what's on there now.  
 
No, we didn't have the time to visit the Batavia Werf and several other things I was looking forward to like Enkhuizen, Hoorn and Durgerdam. 
 
Well, today I spend more time in making hardware and drilling holes to cement the hardware in.  I'll use the slow curing two part epoxy cement for this.  That way I can mix a batch without it timing out on me.  I'm also getting prepped on making the single and double sheave pulleys.  No, I'm not going to buy them, maybe later when I have to make a gezillion of them for the running rigging.
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Thanks everyone for your comments and likes.  Comments and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.  
 
I think I have a plan for the soldering process and will show it when I'm all set up for it.  It won't be a "lazy susan" kind of fixture though, although that sounds intriguing.
 
Thanks Hans for your accolades.  Yes, I know you love these types of ships and so do i.  Your comment on the paint is right on.  I had already in mind changing it to a more fitting green from that era.  I have learned a few things since I put this model aside in favor of finishing the O19 model.  I'm now 2 1/2 years further from the point I stopped.  What I learned is that most of the exterior green was "Spaans groen" (Spanish green).  I have no clue how that looks like but I'll come up with a nice mix or ready-made color.  I have plenty of Grumbacher oil paints and will try to match the old green color.  Somewhere I have do have a print-ou tof the color that was prevalent in the mid to late 17th century.  The final paint type will most likely be in acrylic polymer because that's what's on there now.  
 
No, we didn't have the time to visit the Batavia Werf and several other things I was looking forward to like Enkhuizen, Hoorn and Durgerdam. 
 
Well, today I spend more time in making hardware and drilling holes to cement the hardware in.  I'll use the slow curing two part epoxy cement for this.  That way I can mix a batch without it timing out on me.  I'm also getting prepped on making the single and double sheave pulleys.  No, I'm not going to buy them, maybe later when I have to make a gezillion of them for the running rigging.
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Thanks everyone for your comments and likes.  Comments and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.  
 
I think I have a plan for the soldering process and will show it when I'm all set up for it.  It won't be a "lazy susan" kind of fixture though, although that sounds intriguing.
 
Thanks Hans for your accolades.  Yes, I know you love these types of ships and so do i.  Your comment on the paint is right on.  I had already in mind changing it to a more fitting green from that era.  I have learned a few things since I put this model aside in favor of finishing the O19 model.  I'm now 2 1/2 years further from the point I stopped.  What I learned is that most of the exterior green was "Spaans groen" (Spanish green).  I have no clue how that looks like but I'll come up with a nice mix or ready-made color.  I have plenty of Grumbacher oil paints and will try to match the old green color.  Somewhere I have do have a print-ou tof the color that was prevalent in the mid to late 17th century.  The final paint type will most likely be in acrylic polymer because that's what's on there now.  
 
No, we didn't have the time to visit the Batavia Werf and several other things I was looking forward to like Enkhuizen, Hoorn and Durgerdam. 
 
Well, today I spend more time in making hardware and drilling holes to cement the hardware in.  I'll use the slow curing two part epoxy cement for this.  That way I can mix a batch without it timing out on me.  I'm also getting prepped on making the single and double sheave pulleys.  No, I'm not going to buy them, maybe later when I have to make a gezillion of them for the running rigging.
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Thanks everyone for your warm welcome back messages, and then all the likes, it's really appreciated very much.  Yeah, it's been what, almost 3 years since I last worked on her.  As yuns know I kinda concentrated on the 019 build.
 
Well, here we are and trying to spend some more time on this ship.  I finished four of the eight cannon conversions except for some final detailing, which includes adding the bolts that hold the pivot straps.  I made the straps from paper that I painted flat black.   I'll wait with all that till all eight are completed, no sense in prepping the paint twice.
 
Then there is all the hardware yet, with the ropes.
 
Here are a few pics of what was done today.  Yes, it was rather warm in the dockyard (garage), 33 C!  But I love it though.  
 

This was how I left it last evening.  So, this morning I started dunking the wheels in brown dy so they could dry out for later assembly.  I also painted the axles flat black.
 

Here is the bunch from another angle.  I decided not to polish the canons but leave them somewhat rustic.  Gives a better impression of time at sea 
 

This shows only two of the 32 wheel securing pins.  Yeah, they are still in the rough state but before I installed tem into the axles they were dressed a little better.  I decided not to glue them in the axles in case the crew needs to change a wheel 
 

This shows the four cannons placed in their position on deck.  You can now see that the smaller size fits a lot better without running into the hatch coaming at recoil.  It also gives the crew some space working around the hatches.
 

Here is an overhead view.
 

Here is a close-up of one of the cannon assembles.  This is probably the roughest cannon of them all but I kinda like it and it's not noticeable when placed on deck and ready for action.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Hello everyone, Piet's back in the Surabaya shipyard!  I have accumulated a few more tools and 0.5 mm brass tubes for the canon lid hinges.  I have to redo all the lids already done because the 1 mm tubes are just too much out of scale.  There are no 0.5 mm brass tubes available here in the US but Remco offered to get them for me from Holland.  Thanks again, much appreciated.
 
In the meantime though I started on converting 8 of the 18 pounder canons to 12 pounders.  I cheated and bought a bunch of precast cannons that would fit my scale of 1:80 for 18 pound canons but on the upper deck they must be 12 pound.  The are too large to make them look good.
 
I also had to modify the gun carriages for the modded canons.  
 
I cut the barrel from the gun in front of the pivot pins and shortened that piece a 1/4 inch and did the same at the breach end where I cut about 1/8 of an inch off.  Drilled holes in the three pieces and cemented the gun back together using steel finishing nails as reinforcement.  A little filing and presto, I have a 12 pounder.
 
Actually it wasn't all that simple because the castings were not round but oval.  Fortunately this was mostly at the barrel end.  I had to first file the barrel round before cutting the canon pieces.  Not doing this first would give me all kinds of grief when cementing them back together again.
 
Drilling the holes for the pins was also a tedious job because I had to go slow other wise the metal would melt and jam the drill bit.  I think I lucked out in that all the holes were very close to center and wound up with straight looking guns.
I used 5 minute epoxy to cement the three pieces together.  A little fine tuning and cleaning and then a coat of flat black paint.
 
The gun carriages are still not finished yet.  I only made one for now and will use that as a pattern for the other nine 
 
I also started to make the wheel / axle securing pins.  Micro work, to say the least.
 
Well here are a few pics of the progress so far.  This'll be slower going then with the work I did on the O19 but it has to remain fun.
 

This shows the difference after I converted the first gun.
 

This shows the barrel end removed from the gun and in proces of shortening.
 

This shows the same treatment with the breach end.  I used a grinding wheel in my electric hand tool to shorten it that 1/8 inch.  I had to go slow to prevent the metal from melting and clogging the stone.  The final treatment was with a file to make the cuts square to centerline.
 

Here I have laid-out all the parts to be cemented back together again.
 

This shows the result of all my work for just one gun.  All together i estimate about 4 hours or so per gun.  I didn't check time so it could very well be longer when counting all the time i spend in dressing the gun.
 

This shows the completed gun on its carriage with the next one in line to be done.  All that's left is painting. and attaching the hardware for the ropes.
 

Here you can see the axle / wheel pins.  They too still need to be dressed some more - - - carefully, because they are fragile.
 
Cheers,

Thanks everyone for your comments and likes.  Comments and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.  
 
I think I have a plan for the soldering process and will show it when I'm all set up for it.  It won't be a "lazy susan" kind of fixture though, although that sounds intriguing.
 
Thanks Hans for your accolades.  Yes, I know you love these types of ships and so do i.  Your comment on the paint is right on.  I had already in mind changing it to a more fitting green from that era.  I have learned a few things since I put this model aside in favor of finishing the O19 model.  I'm now 2 1/2 years further from the point I stopped.  What I learned is that most of the exterior green was "Spaans groen" (Spanish green).  I have no clue how that looks like but I'll come up with a nice mix or ready-made color.  I have plenty of Grumbacher oil paints and will try to match the old green color.  Somewhere I have do have a print-ou tof the color that was prevalent in the mid to late 17th century.  The final paint type will most likely be in acrylic polymer because that's what's on there now.  
 
No, we didn't have the time to visit the Batavia Werf and several other things I was looking forward to like Enkhuizen, Hoorn and Durgerdam. 
 
Well, today I spend more time in making hardware and drilling holes to cement the hardware in.  I'll use the slow curing two part epoxy cement for this.  That way I can mix a batch without it timing out on me.  I'm also getting prepped on making the single and double sheave pulleys.  No, I'm not going to buy them, maybe later when I have to make a gezillion of them for the running rigging.
 
Cheers, 
 
 

thank you Bob,
 
I highly appreciate your kind comment. With this build many things are developing as their sequences are due. But still now and then there are things to keep in mind for improvement along the journey...
 
Nils

Seriously fine work. A joy to behold.

a Little update...
 
Build log part 17
 
 
the first Saloon and cabin wall section I start with is in the aft waist area, one deck lower. This has to be done now because the Long Promenade deck (when put on) will not allow Access to this part afterwards.
The metal sections of the superstructure will also be plated. The procedure is to produce a smooth wooden surface, and plate with ponced resembled "riveted"  metal surface.
Then cut free the positions in the foil where the port holes are to be drilled. Dry fit the brass handrails, then take off the handrails, primer the cabin walls, paint the surface, let dry, and then insert the "preglassed" portholes and the handrails again. Secure the handrail stanchions at the inner side of the walls with a drop of CA
 
Nils
 

 
a clean circular cut through the foil and a good centering in the wood enables the hole drilling in best possible way
 
 

 
this part takes 30 portholes and six doors
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
here the first handrail piece is dry-fitted
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
this is a liquid quick drying filler / primer that gives a wonderful surface to the white dull silk finish paint
(a Gunze / Sangyo, Japanese product)
 
 

 
this is the bulkhead for the step to the poopdeck, primered and painted
 
 

 
dry fit on the ship.....
 
 

 
four srews will later help hold this section securely in place

Thanks everyone for your comments and likes.  Comments and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.  
 
I think I have a plan for the soldering process and will show it when I'm all set up for it.  It won't be a "lazy susan" kind of fixture though, although that sounds intriguing.
 
Thanks Hans for your accolades.  Yes, I know you love these types of ships and so do i.  Your comment on the paint is right on.  I had already in mind changing it to a more fitting green from that era.  I have learned a few things since I put this model aside in favor of finishing the O19 model.  I'm now 2 1/2 years further from the point I stopped.  What I learned is that most of the exterior green was "Spaans groen" (Spanish green).  I have no clue how that looks like but I'll come up with a nice mix or ready-made color.  I have plenty of Grumbacher oil paints and will try to match the old green color.  Somewhere I have do have a print-ou tof the color that was prevalent in the mid to late 17th century.  The final paint type will most likely be in acrylic polymer because that's what's on there now.  
 
No, we didn't have the time to visit the Batavia Werf and several other things I was looking forward to like Enkhuizen, Hoorn and Durgerdam. 
 
Well, today I spend more time in making hardware and drilling holes to cement the hardware in.  I'll use the slow curing two part epoxy cement for this.  That way I can mix a batch without it timing out on me.  I'm also getting prepped on making the single and double sheave pulleys.  No, I'm not going to buy them, maybe later when I have to make a gezillion of them for the running rigging.
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Hey Piet,
 
You know I like these kind of ships - and you are making a pretty nice one! Allow me though to make a small (positive mend) remark:
The green color you have used on the Surabaya is quite "vivid" - maybe a bit to much. I don't know if you are planning to redo some paintwork on the hull, but think about making a more grey-green for the upper hull. 
 
I guess you haven't visited the Batavia on your trip to Holland this summer (due to your tight scedule), but she has quite the green color which would suit your VOC-lady very well!

If we stop learning... we're dead.  Here's to learning for a long time... and to having fun doing it.   

No matter how old we get Nenad, we never stop learning and adapting, but the main thing is to have fun doing it. 

Eh, George, if I had this approach from begining, I probably had less problems now. Man learns until he is live. These are 3D structures, and card simulation means a lot, and help me to visualize whole thing

Right now it dropped to my mind that I have to take care also about heights of another two deck houses, and how higher aft deck house corespond with main deck house height. And how it coresponds with wrong longitudinal curvature of my main deck. This will be interesting !!!!! Probably " divide and spread mistake" method


And it is fun

It's good you are taking a scientific approach and testing with card-stock Nenad. 

Testing my AI drawings, drown exactly over my rescaled C-plans.

Hmmmm ... My mess thing again visiting me

Horizontal layout and proportions are ok (seems to be)

But vertical ... It seems that my bulwarks are a bit higher than them have to be, and them are now almost the same height as aft deck house.

Mounting deadeyes I noticed that them are in scale with my bulwark, even they are drastic enlarged comparing to their exact rescaled size (see table couple of posts earlier). I noticed that, but didn't realise what it means... Until tonight

Comparing with attached photo, house is almost double height toward bulwarks height. And consideribg that height of house is correct toward C-plans, that means that bulwarks are raised to the sky

(lost line issue, once again)

To remake bullwarks - no, thank you!

Not in this life

Must continue to play with AI, to try to enlarge a bit height of deck house. only for 1-3 mm, I think it will be enough.

Devil is not black as it seems. This will leave a bit more space for windows and surrounding moldings, but I have to be carefull to keep visual look and proportions of front and rear entrance, also not to overlap height of wheel box. Roof molding on deckhouse is a bit wider than a house, and it can visualy mask extra height

Nenad,
Your decks and dead eyes look great!
Sorry i missed the garden party.  I love BBQ!
Marc

Well I said I let you know when I spotted those programs on the History Channel Dennis. There's 4 programs on back-to-back, from (9:00 AM to 4:00 PM) all about Titanic. 
 
Cheers

Nice planking on the bulwarks JesseLee.
 
Cheers,

Thanks everyone for your comments and all the likes, it's much appreciated!
 
I probably could have gotten away with leaving the guns as is but it would have been rather obvious that there wouldn't be enough room for cleaning and loading them.  The recoil would also cause them to run into the grating structure when fired.  Redoing some of the previous work is not a big deal right now because of my rather long absence to the ship.  It's kinda like a new project and am loving it.
 
Okay, I have a very minor update.  I made 3 new gunport lids so that I have a total of 10.  8 for the starboard gun deck and two for the stern chasers.  This ship is equipped with 18 pounders on the gun deck and 12 pounders on the orlop.  That's why I bought so many of the larger size guns.
 
I also started with recycling the lid hardware.  I pre-made enough in a rough state and are fortunately long and wide enough to do so without running into a soldering problem with silver solder.  I'll be using the opposite end for the silver.  Yeah, I soft soldered the first batch but it'll work out just fine this way.
 
Well, that's about it for today.  Tomorrow I'll continue with the gunport lids and the hinge hardware.   I think that I'll be switching back and forth between the gun hardware and gun ports.
 

This shows two of the three lids being glued up.  I was fortunate in that I still had two of the hul planks left over and gut three pieces to the same width as the port opening.  The light colored piece is for the inside of the lid.  
 

This shows the raw hinge hardware with the original 1 mm tubes removed.  The one lonely pice on top right is the first hinge bracket cut to size.  I used a standard pair of shears to cut the thin brass sheet.  The wide end is 1.7 mm and still long enough to be trimmed to the correct length.   This also means that I now have to make hinge tube also 1.7 mm or to fit the width.  I'll be using 0.5 mm brass tubing for the hinges and 0.3 mm brass rod for the pins.  
 
Cheers, 

Nice planking on the bulwarks JesseLee.
 
Cheers,

Nice planking on the bulwarks JesseLee.
 
Cheers,

Hey Carl
 
The cake stand idea-Now that's "thinking outside the box"....and a pretty nifty one, too.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Piet,
 
As with all the repetitive work, it takes time, but you could train your brain muscle searching for ways to make that solder production line. You might use a revolving cake stand a low one, I found one in marble ... put a soldering stone on top, maybe another in between to dissipate the heat and you're on your way ....