Force9

Lads...
  I've been laboring away at the build but haven't taken many photos along the way... And some that I have taken have gone missing in the nether world of my old hard drive.   I'll pick up here with my progress and get the build log up to snuff.   Firstly, I decided that my original location for the main sheet sheave holes was too far forward.  They really should've been positioned aft a bit - centered in the gap between the main and mizzen shrouds.  So I filled in the first version and laid in a new row of inner planking with rivet detail, etc. and painted it all to match.  Then I redid the sheave holes and moved the cleat.     You'll notice the addition of more cleats along the bulwark.  My understanding is that halyards were NOT tied off to pin rails... Those tie off to cleats or bollards at the ends of the pin rails.  I used the guidance from Olof Eriksen to position appropriate cleats to tie off the various halyards on either port or starboard.  The cleats were quickly fashioned from Styrene I-Beams from Evergreen using the handy Chopper:     Once sliced off of the stock piece, one end would be snipped and the remainder filed to shape and glued into a hole drilled almost thru the bulwark to maximize the surface area for holding power when glued.  After the glue dried, I came back and painted with wood brown.   Deadeyes:     I've got the deadeyes all primed and painted to resemble wood with iron strops and light tarring (just smeared them with a dark wash).  I wanted them to be wood-like- not entirely black.   I've reamed out the holes in the channels and test fitted the initial batch on the fore channel.     You'll also notice that the forward most shroud will lead to a triple block instead of a standard deadeye.  (I've got a test version mocked up for now and should have something in place after I put the solder iron to work on the wire strops.)   The Hull model in the Peabody Essex museum clearly shows the triple blocks fitted on the forward shrouds on the fore and main channels.  The mizzen does NOT have this block - just the standard deadeye.       This contradicts the guidance from Larry Arnot in the BlueJacket kit manual, but Mr. Eriksen confirms this approach against the Brady Naval Apprentice Kedge Anchor (Ed. 1841)  Apparently these first shrouds would be eased or tightened as the ship changed tacks.  As such, Eriksen refers to these as "Swifters" - although that term is a bit ambiguous to me.  I know, for example, that the aft most shrouds on a channel were often referred to as the "Swifters" - they are not paired with another shroud when rigged and seem to have evolved from some sort of backstay in an earlier time.   All part of the mysteries of rigging as I venture forth.   Sorry for the delayed update and thanks again for all the Likes and interest.   Evan

Lads...
  I've been laboring away at the build but haven't taken many photos along the way... And some that I have taken have gone missing in the nether world of my old hard drive.   I'll pick up here with my progress and get the build log up to snuff.   Firstly, I decided that my original location for the main sheet sheave holes was too far forward.  They really should've been positioned aft a bit - centered in the gap between the main and mizzen shrouds.  So I filled in the first version and laid in a new row of inner planking with rivet detail, etc. and painted it all to match.  Then I redid the sheave holes and moved the cleat.     You'll notice the addition of more cleats along the bulwark.  My understanding is that halyards were NOT tied off to pin rails... Those tie off to cleats or bollards at the ends of the pin rails.  I used the guidance from Olof Eriksen to position appropriate cleats to tie off the various halyards on either port or starboard.  The cleats were quickly fashioned from Styrene I-Beams from Evergreen using the handy Chopper:     Once sliced off of the stock piece, one end would be snipped and the remainder filed to shape and glued into a hole drilled almost thru the bulwark to maximize the surface area for holding power when glued.  After the glue dried, I came back and painted with wood brown.   Deadeyes:     I've got the deadeyes all primed and painted to resemble wood with iron strops and light tarring (just smeared them with a dark wash).  I wanted them to be wood-like- not entirely black.   I've reamed out the holes in the channels and test fitted the initial batch on the fore channel.     You'll also notice that the forward most shroud will lead to a triple block instead of a standard deadeye.  (I've got a test version mocked up for now and should have something in place after I put the solder iron to work on the wire strops.)   The Hull model in the Peabody Essex museum clearly shows the triple blocks fitted on the forward shrouds on the fore and main channels.  The mizzen does NOT have this block - just the standard deadeye.       This contradicts the guidance from Larry Arnot in the BlueJacket kit manual, but Mr. Eriksen confirms this approach against the Brady Naval Apprentice Kedge Anchor (Ed. 1841)  Apparently these first shrouds would be eased or tightened as the ship changed tacks.  As such, Eriksen refers to these as "Swifters" - although that term is a bit ambiguous to me.  I know, for example, that the aft most shrouds on a channel were often referred to as the "Swifters" - they are not paired with another shroud when rigged and seem to have evolved from some sort of backstay in an earlier time.   All part of the mysteries of rigging as I venture forth.   Sorry for the delayed update and thanks again for all the Likes and interest.   Evan

Ahoy...

Apologies for the long interlude... Had some computer issues and had to upgrade my system to get back on track.

I have made some progress on cleats, dead eyes and such and will post some pictures soon. In the meantime, I had a nice visit last week to the US Naval Academy museum... They have the other set of the Michel Felice Corne paintings of the Constitution vs Guerriere battle that were commissioned by Captain Hull. These are exquisite and I think I stared at them for at least 30 minutes:

The series is hung in a bit of a jumble, but very visible.








Here are some details of the stern. The ventilation ports under the counter are clearly visible - I'm glad I added those to my version.




Rigging detail:



Here is a detailed view from the Corne painting of the Tripoli campaign:


The basement of the museum contains the gift store and the model maintenance workshop. It turns out that if you stare through the viewing window long enough (it helps to have a forlorn puppy dog expression as well) someone in the workshop will take pity and invite you inside for a tour. Jack was extremely generous with his time and showed me all the projects and some of the terrific tools - including a very nice rope serving set up and a clever/inexpensive micro-torch he built for detailed solder work.

At some point I mentioned my own "learner's" project on the Revell Constitution and I was invited into the Curator's office to have a look at a "small Constitution" model kept on top of a file cabinet.





It should be readily apparent that this is no ordinary model. In fact, this is a Donald McNarry masterpiece showing Constitution's early appearance. The pictures don't give a true perception of the small scale... I'd think it is 1/192 or thereabouts (less than half the length of my project) and each element is executed with unfathomable detail. The guns, boats, wire rigging, etc. are all incredible. I urged The curator to find a way to get it on the display floor, but he explained that there is not much room in the current display area for all of the incredible models in the museum collection. Gawd only knows what the thing is worth - especially after the passing of Mr. McNarry.

The museum is a true treasure trove of American history. The collections include the original "Don't Give Up The Ship" flag, the actual table (and tablecloth) used for the Japanese surrender on board the USS Missouri (it was a mess table quickly adapted for use after the beautiful wooden table provided by the British turned out to be too small for the surrender documents), and the spur that snapped off the boot of John Wilkes Booth when he leaped off the balcony and got caught on the flag bunting - breaking his ankle on the landing.

Folks should make the effort to visit Annapolis if at all possible - well worth the side trip from DC!

I'll post some more project pictures later this week to catch everyone up on my progress.

Thanks
Evan

Lads...
  I've been laboring away at the build but haven't taken many photos along the way... And some that I have taken have gone missing in the nether world of my old hard drive.   I'll pick up here with my progress and get the build log up to snuff.   Firstly, I decided that my original location for the main sheet sheave holes was too far forward.  They really should've been positioned aft a bit - centered in the gap between the main and mizzen shrouds.  So I filled in the first version and laid in a new row of inner planking with rivet detail, etc. and painted it all to match.  Then I redid the sheave holes and moved the cleat.     You'll notice the addition of more cleats along the bulwark.  My understanding is that halyards were NOT tied off to pin rails... Those tie off to cleats or bollards at the ends of the pin rails.  I used the guidance from Olof Eriksen to position appropriate cleats to tie off the various halyards on either port or starboard.  The cleats were quickly fashioned from Styrene I-Beams from Evergreen using the handy Chopper:     Once sliced off of the stock piece, one end would be snipped and the remainder filed to shape and glued into a hole drilled almost thru the bulwark to maximize the surface area for holding power when glued.  After the glue dried, I came back and painted with wood brown.   Deadeyes:     I've got the deadeyes all primed and painted to resemble wood with iron strops and light tarring (just smeared them with a dark wash).  I wanted them to be wood-like- not entirely black.   I've reamed out the holes in the channels and test fitted the initial batch on the fore channel.     You'll also notice that the forward most shroud will lead to a triple block instead of a standard deadeye.  (I've got a test version mocked up for now and should have something in place after I put the solder iron to work on the wire strops.)   The Hull model in the Peabody Essex museum clearly shows the triple blocks fitted on the forward shrouds on the fore and main channels.  The mizzen does NOT have this block - just the standard deadeye.       This contradicts the guidance from Larry Arnot in the BlueJacket kit manual, but Mr. Eriksen confirms this approach against the Brady Naval Apprentice Kedge Anchor (Ed. 1841)  Apparently these first shrouds would be eased or tightened as the ship changed tacks.  As such, Eriksen refers to these as "Swifters" - although that term is a bit ambiguous to me.  I know, for example, that the aft most shrouds on a channel were often referred to as the "Swifters" - they are not paired with another shroud when rigged and seem to have evolved from some sort of backstay in an earlier time.   All part of the mysteries of rigging as I venture forth.   Sorry for the delayed update and thanks again for all the Likes and interest.   Evan

I found this little gem in the stacks. I'm sure many have read it, but its new to me. Makes me want to cry ...

"306 OPERATIONS ON THE ATLANTIC COAST.

Confederate reports and correspondence relative Jo the destruction and
abandonment of Norfolk navy yard.

[Telegram.]

NORFOLK, April22, 1861.
North left for Charleston to-day; I answer your dispatch. The Penn-
sylcania, Merrimack, Germantown, Raritan, Columbia, and Dolphin are
burned to the waters edge and sunk. The Delaware, Columbus, and
Plymouth are sunk. All can be raised; the Plymouth easily; not
much injured. The Germantown crushed and sunk by the falling of
shears. Her battery, new and complete, uninjured by fire; can be
recovered. The most abominable vandalism at the yard. Destruction
less than might be expected. The two lower ship houses burned, with
the New York, line of battle ship, on the stocks. Also the rigging loft,
sail loft, and gun-carriage depot, with all the pivot gun carriages and
many others. No other buildings burned. The metal work of the car-
riages will be recovered; most of it good. About 4,000 shells thrown
overboard; can be recovered. The Germantowns battery will be up
and ready for service to-morrow. In ordnance building all small arms
broken and thrown overboard will be fished up. The brass howitzers
thrown overboard are up. The Merrimack has 2,200 10-pound cartridges
in her magazine in water-tight tanks. The flag of Virginia floats over
the yard. Only eight guns, 32-pounders, destroyed; about 1,000 or more
from 11-inch to 32-pounders taken, and ready for our cause. Many of
them are ready in batteries. We saved about 130 gun carriages; all
saved at St. Helena [Va.]. Many thousands of shells and shot, from
11-inch to 32-pounders, safe. All the machinery uninjured. Magazine
captured, with 2,000 barrels of powder and vast numbers of shells and
quantities of fixed ammunition. An attempt made to blow up the dry
dock failed. Everything broken that they could break. Private trunks
broken open and officers clothing and that of their wives stolen.
Glorious news! General Gwynn just read me a telegram; it comes
from a reliable source; the New York Regiment, attempting to march
through Maryland, was met half waybetween Marlborough and Annapo-
lis and cut all to pieces.
G. T. SINCLAIR.
S. H. MALLORY,
Secretary of the Navy."

DONE!! Essex is now completed. The last item was the lantern kit from Caldercraft that just arrived from the UK. Etched brass with a white metal top and base and brass rod support. A fussy little piece to do, but correct in size and shape.
 
Essex has now sat for her completion portraits and it is time for some reflection on the past almost two years that I have worked on her:
 
1) This was a great challenge. Those who have followed along from the beginning will remember that I almost gave up in frustration at the problems that presented themselves. I'm very glad that I didn't. It turned into an enjoyable and rewarding experience. I had my doubts about how things would turn out and some of my fears were realized --  for example, the placement of the quarterdeck gun ports turned out wrong when I did the rigging. This was my fault for not having thought it through well enough when I was making the various structural changes that were required. I thank everyone for kindly not pointing out the errors  when they appeared.
 
2) I will not do another model at this small a scale again. The problems of aging eyes and arthritic hands made some of the very small work and particularly the rigging in very close quarters a pain. This probably also means that this may be the last large complex ship that I will model. My current plan is to stick to smaller vessels in larger scales. Chuck's Cheerful is next.
 
3) Some words of warning and encouragement to those wishing to build the "new" Essex kit. I have not seen it, but I've read the posts from some who have. If the drawings have not been changed, you will have problems. The drawings have scale issues, inconsistency issues and, according to Sam Cassano, were not his final drawings. Using the AOTS Essex as an additional reference is a help, but care will still be required to make it all work. Having said that, I think that anyone with moderate skills and some experience can turn out a creditable model. I would love to see some logs started, and I would be happy to provide any help that may be desired.
 
Thanks to all for the interest, the generous thoughts and comments and the help and encouragement throughout this project. It is always appreciated and is what makes this site so great. A special thank you to Sam for all his help and a wish for his good health.
 
Bob

Apparently the crew referred to these as "Spice Boxes" (presumably because they resembled a common household item) and they were commonly included on the larger frigates for the convenience and privacy of the ships officers. It is tough to determine how permanent these were... You'd think they were flimsy screens that were easily removed when clearing for action.  It seems that they might've been more solid fixtures... Captain Stewart ordered them removed prior to the battle with Cyane and Levant to give better clearance for the forward gun crews.  They were not reassembled after the battle - probably because they were removed with an axe. On the cruise home the British officers began to grumble and get very surly about the lack of private facilities for the gentleman.  (Apparently the were used to having these on Guerriere) They felt that it was very undignified to have to relieve themselves using the leeward channels like common sailors.  One of the American Lieutenants finally got fed up and remarked loudly to one of them something to the effect that the prisoners were well positioned to attest that American officers cared more about their gunnery than about their round houses... Presumably that ended the trouble.
 
Here is my representation:
 

 

 
A fun detail that will get buried once my spar deck is in place.
 
Evan

http://usscm.blogspot.com/2014/02/slip-shod-truth-about-early-navy-shoes.html

Cheers Frank and Popeye!
 
Folks -
 
I've reached that point in the build where there is nothing more I can do to delay the inevitable... I have to start accounting for the rigging and making sure that I've incorporated the necessary end points into the half hulls before I start to glue it all together.  
 
I consulted the usual suspects:
 
1. The Revell rigging plans
2. The Bluejacket kit manual and rigging plans - Larry Arnot/Tyrone Martin
3. AOTS USS Constitution - Karl Heinz Marquardt
4. CONSTITUTION - All Sails Up and Flying - Olof Eriksen
5. The Charles Ware 1817 Sail plan (National Archives)
6. The "Hull" model in the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) collection.
 
I've been poring over these different representations of the rigging layout of Old Ironsides for many months and have started to form some sort of plan.  For the most part I will follow the guidance of Olof Eriksen, but fall back on the Bluejacket plans in some cases.  Eriksen's work is focused on her 1815 configuration, so I'll try to insert some 1812 era modifications wherever appropriate - mostly using the Hull model for corrections.  Ultimately this is all going to involve a fair bit of guesswork and intuition tempered by the realities imposed by the Revell model itself. In some cases the molding of the hull will impose limitations that are more than I'm willing to modify - I'll just roll with what is there.
 
Here is my first compromise:
 

 

 
Some may recall that I eliminated the chesstree included in the kit and filled in the holes at the gun deck level that originally allowed for the Fore Sheet and Main Tack to enter and get tied off within... I just feel that by 1812 these lines would've been led to the spar deck to allow for better control and coordination.  Eriksen shows the Fore Sheet entering thru a sheave in the spar deck bulwark just forward of the last carronade before the break in the bulwark at the waist.  The Revell kit does not have much of a bulwark at that point.  I couldn't widen it because the "entry port" is situated here with the cleats/steps leading up the side.  I was not willing to move that stuff over with all that scratch building... Marquardt offers a solution.  He shows a sheave added on the waist for the Fore Sheet to pass thru and tie off to a cleat mounted nearby on the deck.  Do I think this is historically accurate?  Nah... But it suits my purpose.
 
The first eyebolt near the sheave is the tie off for the Fore Sheet.  The eyebolt mounted forward on the waist near the fo'c's'le bulwark will eventually have a block mounted for the Main Tack to lead inboard. I still need to drill the hole just aft of the fore channel for the Main Tack tie off point.
 
Here is the sheave I cut into the spar deck bulwark for the Main Sheet:
 

 
I mounted a cleat on the inside to tie off the Main Sheet:

 
More to come shortly
 
Thanks for the interest
 
Evan

So... A couple of comedians!    Don't people remember that she was called "Old Ironsides"???!! - She never absorbed any damage!  Everything bounced off!!!  Well, at least it all bounced off for my model.
 
 
Here is the latest...
 
It is amazing how many holes need to be drilled into a sailing ship model!  I've been busy with the mini spiral drill and #76 bit for the past few weekends.
 
It is also amazing to uncover the various nuances that go into these builds.  I've been drilling the many small holes for the Jotika eyelets that will be installed around the interior of the gun ports.  
 
Most references indicate the breeching terminating on a ring bolt positioned near the trucks in line with the bottom of the gun port.  The outhaul tackle, however, is often shown leading at an angle to an eyelet positioned about midway between the two guns.  It would seem to me to be more efficient if this tackle ran more parallel to the gun barrel - no waste in lateral effort when hauling on the tackle.  That would seem to be the arrangement on most of the contemporary ship models... An eyebolt for the outhaul tackle positioned about midway up on the gun port and near the opening.  The ring bolt for the breeching rope positioned directly below in line with the bottom of the port.
 
We can also see this type of set up on the remarkable War of 1812 wrecks of the Hamilton and Scourge that lie preserved at the bottom of Lake Ontario. Both were swamped by a sudden squall and lost at the same time.  (Actually the wrecks were once remarkably well preserved but have now become encrusted with an invasive species of mussel):
 

The boarding cutlasses are very cool.
 
Here is the approach I took:

 
None of these eyelets are glued in... Just a sample of positioning.  I'll blacken them and glue the upper eyelets, but I'll attach the lower ring bolts to the breeching rope when I rig the cannon off the ship before attaching these to the bulwarks.
 
Evan

Thanks Steve and George, and for the likes, too.
 
I finished up the gun deck last night, for real this time, unless I mess it up with the work going on above it. I made new coaming sides for the bigger stove, stained them and glued them in. I added more to the front of the stove, painted it black and glued it into the coaming, them glued the riding bitts back in. One side of the bitts kept coming up from the deck, so I came up with an on the spot clamping technique that worked a treat.
 

 
So here is the new stove arrangement with the chimney the right distance from the fore mast, so the spar deck hatch will be in the right place.
 

 
And for completeness, the pump area with the ammo scuttle covers in place.
 

 
I then started on the spar deck beams that will go over this whole area. My first attempt was to cut out a single beam, using the old beams that I cut out over a year ago as a template. I traced it onto a piece of 3/16" basswood sheet, then cut it out with the scroll saw. I sanded the top to final shape, then attempted to use the thickness sander to get the underside to its final shape. I found that because the piece is curved, any little movement up and down caused the thickness to change, so it was coming out too thin is places. I decided that since i just got the thickness sander I am going to need more practice with flat strips before I attempt curved ones. So plan B was to roughly cut out all the beams on the scroll saw and lightly glue them together side by side.
 

 
When that was dry, I sanded the tops together using the belt sander, and the undersides using a large sanding disk in the drill press.
 

 
I then soaked the block in alcohol for about an hour and separated the beams. On a couple I had to wedge an X-Acto knife blade into the ends to get them started. As you can see, they were still a little rough.
 

 
I then cut them to length, using the old beams as templates. Here are the old beams, and the beam extensions that I left on the bulwarks to hold up the new beams.
 

 

 

 
I cut these a little long so I could sand them into a good fit. I don't want to have to do a lot of sanding of the beams once they are in place because I don't know how to keep the dust from getting onto the gun deck, so I am trying to fair them as much as possible off the model before attaching them. I still did not like the way the undersides looked, so I took some sandpaper and placed it on top of one of the old beams and clamped them into a vice, then sanded the underside of each beam. This worked pretty well and the beams looked much better. The next picture has a new beam on top of the sandpaper being sanded.
 

 

 
Here are some of the beams in place before I sanded the ends.
 

 
Still more work to do but they are getting there.

That is very fine and precise craftsmanship!
 
Were such booms used sparingly in that era?
 
Evan

Ahoy Popeye!
 
I will also elbow my way thru the crowd to watch...
 
I have the Commemerative edition of this kit that includes Pontos PE and decking.  I don't think it is the most accurate version of the Titanic, but it is certainly representative  of the great ship.  I'm not a Titanic fanatic so I'm not counting missing port holes and worrying about much minutiae, but I did take the trouble to add the openings on the forecastle and stern decks.  I also put some edging around the stern to help support the PE railings
 

 
I didn't like the fit of the deck towards the bow so I scraped off the kit's molded ledge and replaced it with my own styrene version to help the deck sit even.
 

 
Otherwise, I really like the fit and finish and have found it to be a terrific kit.
 
Unfortunately, this is about as far as I've gotten, so I'll look to you for guidance going forward.
 
Good stuff!
Evan

Slow going in the shipyard....but progress is still being made.
 
Here is my attempt at making inner studding sail boom irons.
These are made from 24 gauge steel wire.  I start with a z-shaped bend in the wire (90 degree bends).  The section in the middle is the measurement of the distance required between the yard and the boom.  Then I flattened both ends from the bend outwards on an anvil.  The length of each flattened end is determined by the circumference of the yard and the boom.  Then bend the flattened ends to make a hoop for the yard and boom.  A final adjustment to make everything straight and the iron is done.  The piece still needs to be soldered closed and blackened.  I will solder the hoops slightly smaller so that they are a jam fit at the proper place on the yard and boom.  The last photo shows the boom temporarily in place. The outer boom iron will be replaced with my own also.  That one will be a smaller version of the inner.  R.C. Anderson suggests that the style of outer boom iron shown in this photo did not come into use until the eighteenth century by the English.  
 
Hope you enjoy
 

 

 

 

 

The rigging is now done! I added the crossjack, topsail yard and the gaff and boom to the mizzen mast. The yards and their rigging are virtually identical to the fore and main and need no further description. The boom and gaff were made up with their jaws cut and shaped from strip and bead parrels added. The boom was rigged with topping lifts, sheets and guys. the gaff was rigged with peak and throat halliards and vangs.
 
The access clearances got really tight between the main and mizzen, particularly in doing the braces, which basically run between the two masts .This work resulted in a number of "accidents" and some very colorful language. 
 
I have a few comments on the rigging process. I used Chuck's blocks and rigging line throughout. I tried to keep as close to scale sizes as possible. As a result, the majority of the blocks were quite small and the majority of the line of small diameters. The blocks are really good looking and well made. I did find that drilling the sheave  holes with a very slightly larger drill size made them easier to work with. The rigging line is also very good looking and generally easy to work with. As I've mentioned before, my only problem with it is a tendency to stretch or sag once in place. This presented some issues when running rigging lines had to be attached to the standing rigging.
 
With completion of the rigging, the only remaining items of work are the anchors, the stern lantern and possibly a boat to be hung from the stern davits.The kit castings for the anchors and lantern are not usable. I will scratch build the anchors and I'm continuing to look for a suitable lantern. I probably won't do the boat.
 
Bob

Ahoy Popeye!
 
I will also elbow my way thru the crowd to watch...
 
I have the Commemerative edition of this kit that includes Pontos PE and decking.  I don't think it is the most accurate version of the Titanic, but it is certainly representative  of the great ship.  I'm not a Titanic fanatic so I'm not counting missing port holes and worrying about much minutiae, but I did take the trouble to add the openings on the forecastle and stern decks.  I also put some edging around the stern to help support the PE railings
 

 
I didn't like the fit of the deck towards the bow so I scraped off the kit's molded ledge and replaced it with my own styrene version to help the deck sit even.
 

 
Otherwise, I really like the fit and finish and have found it to be a terrific kit.
 
Unfortunately, this is about as far as I've gotten, so I'll look to you for guidance going forward.
 
Good stuff!
Evan

Ahoy Popeye!
 
I will also elbow my way thru the crowd to watch...
 
I have the Commemerative edition of this kit that includes Pontos PE and decking.  I don't think it is the most accurate version of the Titanic, but it is certainly representative  of the great ship.  I'm not a Titanic fanatic so I'm not counting missing port holes and worrying about much minutiae, but I did take the trouble to add the openings on the forecastle and stern decks.  I also put some edging around the stern to help support the PE railings
 

 
I didn't like the fit of the deck towards the bow so I scraped off the kit's molded ledge and replaced it with my own styrene version to help the deck sit even.
 

 
Otherwise, I really like the fit and finish and have found it to be a terrific kit.
 
Unfortunately, this is about as far as I've gotten, so I'll look to you for guidance going forward.
 
Good stuff!
Evan

Ahoy Popeye!
 
I will also elbow my way thru the crowd to watch...
 
I have the Commemerative edition of this kit that includes Pontos PE and decking.  I don't think it is the most accurate version of the Titanic, but it is certainly representative  of the great ship.  I'm not a Titanic fanatic so I'm not counting missing port holes and worrying about much minutiae, but I did take the trouble to add the openings on the forecastle and stern decks.  I also put some edging around the stern to help support the PE railings
 

 
I didn't like the fit of the deck towards the bow so I scraped off the kit's molded ledge and replaced it with my own styrene version to help the deck sit even.
 

 
Otherwise, I really like the fit and finish and have found it to be a terrific kit.
 
Unfortunately, this is about as far as I've gotten, so I'll look to you for guidance going forward.
 
Good stuff!
Evan

Ahoy...

Apologies for the long interlude... Had some computer issues and had to upgrade my system to get back on track.

I have made some progress on cleats, dead eyes and such and will post some pictures soon. In the meantime, I had a nice visit last week to the US Naval Academy museum... They have the other set of the Michel Felice Corne paintings of the Constitution vs Guerriere battle that were commissioned by Captain Hull. These are exquisite and I think I stared at them for at least 30 minutes:

The series is hung in a bit of a jumble, but very visible.








Here are some details of the stern. The ventilation ports under the counter are clearly visible - I'm glad I added those to my version.




Rigging detail:



Here is a detailed view from the Corne painting of the Tripoli campaign:


The basement of the museum contains the gift store and the model maintenance workshop. It turns out that if you stare through the viewing window long enough (it helps to have a forlorn puppy dog expression as well) someone in the workshop will take pity and invite you inside for a tour. Jack was extremely generous with his time and showed me all the projects and some of the terrific tools - including a very nice rope serving set up and a clever/inexpensive micro-torch he built for detailed solder work.

At some point I mentioned my own "learner's" project on the Revell Constitution and I was invited into the Curator's office to have a look at a "small Constitution" model kept on top of a file cabinet.





It should be readily apparent that this is no ordinary model. In fact, this is a Donald McNarry masterpiece showing Constitution's early appearance. The pictures don't give a true perception of the small scale... I'd think it is 1/192 or thereabouts (less than half the length of my project) and each element is executed with unfathomable detail. The guns, boats, wire rigging, etc. are all incredible. I urged The curator to find a way to get it on the display floor, but he explained that there is not much room in the current display area for all of the incredible models in the museum collection. Gawd only knows what the thing is worth - especially after the passing of Mr. McNarry.

The museum is a true treasure trove of American history. The collections include the original "Don't Give Up The Ship" flag, the actual table (and tablecloth) used for the Japanese surrender on board the USS Missouri (it was a mess table quickly adapted for use after the beautiful wooden table provided by the British turned out to be too small for the surrender documents), and the spur that snapped off the boot of John Wilkes Booth when he leaped off the balcony and got caught on the flag bunting - breaking his ankle on the landing.

Folks should make the effort to visit Annapolis if at all possible - well worth the side trip from DC!

I'll post some more project pictures later this week to catch everyone up on my progress.

Thanks
Evan

Some not very glamorous progress...
 
The pin rails have been added to the spar deck bulwarks.
 
I do not have a drill press with enough precision for micro pin holes, so I needed to do these by hand.  First, a simple jig was cobbled together to encourage consistent results... I made starter holes with a simple push pin, then came back with the micro-drill.  I had to remember to place the holes on the outboard edge of the strip and attempt to drill straight with a steady hand (not always successful, but darn close).

 
I laid in some small support ledges underneath to increase the surface area in hopes of a solid connection to the bulwarks.  I also drilled small holes so that I could insert thin steel pins for additional strength:



 
It was not easy to determine the proper layout for all of the pin rails - no two sources agree.  It does seem obvious, however, that there does need to be more rails than provided by Revell.  My solution is a combination of the Bluejacket guidance and Olof Eriksen's version with some allowances made for the reality of the kit bulwarks.  I elected to not include rails over the knighthead above the bowsprit... I probably have a few more pins than needed, but better too many than too few.
 
Some additional progress on the channels:


 
I should be ready to mount these after a bit more cleanup and filler in some of the small seams. 
 
Evan

Paint!
 
Folks -
 
Apologies for the long gap between updates - I just got caught up in the flow and haven't paused to add to my log.
 
It may be hard to believe, but I've actually begun to smear some paint over some of the plastic...
 
I've got the gun deck and associated furniture mostly done with a few minor touch ups needed here and there:



Spare Anchor:

Camboose:

Capstan:


Chain Pumps:

 
I was a Floquil paint guy in the past, alas, we know how that has gone.  I'm now trying Vallejo paint and I'm becoming a big fan.
 
Thanks for looking in
Evan

Folks
 
Here is another quick exercise I undertook... The Stern Bumpkins.
 
Many representations of the great ship show the presence of Stern Bumpkins (or Main Brace Spreaders, or Main Brace Bumpkins, etc.).  We see an example on the "Loring" model that is currently undergoing restoration at the USS Constitution Museum:
 

 
Marquardt includes them in his reconstruction and Olof Eriksen shows them as well in his 1815 version.  I went ahead and dabbled a bit with a quick mockup just to get a sense of what might be involved if I go down the same path:
 


 
It may be that my version is slightly undersized - hard to tell.  I used some spare .080 x .080" strip and some scraps of PE brass.  If I do include these I might try .100 x .100" and drill through the bulwark to extend into the hull for more rigidity.
 
However, I am hesitant to go this route.  I think it is very likely that these were present through most of the War of 1812, but I can't see any evidence that they were fitted during her battle with Guerriere.  
 

 
The Hull model clearly does not show these and neither do the Michele Felice Cornè, Thomas Birch, or George Ropes Jr. paintings.  For now, I think I'll hold off.
 
EG

Here is a bit more progress...
 
I'm not thrilled with the kit provided galley funnel (later called the "Charlie Noble").  It's not bad, but not good either.  It is easily dismissed or overlooked on the foredeck.
 
The Hull model shows us a short and stocky version:
 

 
This is  the way to go if I want to be strict with my sources and true to the most historical representation of her August 19, 1812 configuration.  But here is where I may exercise some artistic license.  If I lay out the boats in the OOB configuration, then this funnel points directly into the butt end of the stored cutter that spans the skids and foredeck. And I've seen several models of ships in this period that display a taller funnel.  Even the restored ship today has a much taller Charlie Noble.  This, I think, may be an opportunity to utilize something from the AOTS book that adds a bit more interest to this part of the deck.  Perhaps not entirely accurate, but what the heck (and maybe I abuse Marquardt too much and should at least acknowledge his version of the ship in this small way).
 
Here are the raw materials; .188 dia. solid rod styrene (Plastruct 90863), .188 dia.tube styrene (Evergreen 196), .188 x .188 styrene (Evergreen 196), some very narrow/thin styrene strip, and the wonderful Jotika .3mm PE brass eyelets.

 
I glued a hunk of the Evergreen 196 to the base of the solid rod and then shaped the corners with a small file to blend the pieces. Then I cut the 45 degree angle in both the solid rod and the tube and glued them together.

 
Finally I wrapped the funnel with some narrow styrene and added some eyelet "tie downs" around the perimeter.
The end result:

 
The baffle plate was easily made - I added a common paper hole punch to my tool box and snipped out a few discs from some thin and wide styrene strips.
 
Certainly a more interesting element than the alternative.  Later I'll add the baffle plate and some small tackle to hold the funnel stable in a heavy breeze.
 
EG

Ahoy Popeye!
 
I will also elbow my way thru the crowd to watch...
 
I have the Commemerative edition of this kit that includes Pontos PE and decking.  I don't think it is the most accurate version of the Titanic, but it is certainly representative  of the great ship.  I'm not a Titanic fanatic so I'm not counting missing port holes and worrying about much minutiae, but I did take the trouble to add the openings on the forecastle and stern decks.  I also put some edging around the stern to help support the PE railings
 

 
I didn't like the fit of the deck towards the bow so I scraped off the kit's molded ledge and replaced it with my own styrene version to help the deck sit even.
 

 
Otherwise, I really like the fit and finish and have found it to be a terrific kit.
 
Unfortunately, this is about as far as I've gotten, so I'll look to you for guidance going forward.
 
Good stuff!
Evan

Ahoy Popeye!
 
I will also elbow my way thru the crowd to watch...
 
I have the Commemerative edition of this kit that includes Pontos PE and decking.  I don't think it is the most accurate version of the Titanic, but it is certainly representative  of the great ship.  I'm not a Titanic fanatic so I'm not counting missing port holes and worrying about much minutiae, but I did take the trouble to add the openings on the forecastle and stern decks.  I also put some edging around the stern to help support the PE railings
 

 
I didn't like the fit of the deck towards the bow so I scraped off the kit's molded ledge and replaced it with my own styrene version to help the deck sit even.
 

 
Otherwise, I really like the fit and finish and have found it to be a terrific kit.
 
Unfortunately, this is about as far as I've gotten, so I'll look to you for guidance going forward.
 
Good stuff!
Evan