bridgman

The wobble blade  method of cutting dados has been pretty much abandon by full sized woodworkers for all of the above objections.

It's a cheap  method compared to the preferred method  stacked blades to obtain the desired width, which is more accurate and results in a  better finish

of the dado. The stacked blades have a smaller diameter, fewer teeth a larger gullets for better material removal.

MicroMarks supplying accessories for their "doll house saws".

Bridgman {bellow zero} Bob

Use the existing deck as a pattern, make a temporary pattern from paper, card stock, whats avaiable that's easy to

work with. Insert pattern and trim as need to lay flat. Transfer final shape to deck and make any final adjustments.

Bridgman Bob

Boerscht has realy crafted a beautiful and finally crafted model, and has moved on to the world of

larger models! 

Unfortunately, the Amati kit, and others, are  inaccurate in the depiction of J class yachts and other America Cup racers.

The Midest Products kit, 2003, is much closer to realaty. The Endeavour''s owner T.O.M. Sopwith, aiecraft designer, had 

all Endeavour's rigging repalced with stranded wire, and the "latest" high tech electronics installed. Most o fthe deck layout is close except for the brass 

hand rails at the deck edge, they would have been some type of wood. These were competive racers where money was no object, Endeavors hull

was made of steel.

I had a similar problem in building the Mamoli kit of the 1885 cup racer, Puritan,  where the entire deck furniture had to be reseadched and replaced.

 A beautiful model Boerscht.

Bridgman Bob  

Beware of the "doll house table saws"! If you have any   experience with any full sized table saw

you will be appalled with the sloppy fitting of their parts fences , miter gauges for example.. Buy one if you are up to work arounds to 

make them do what you want!

Been there done that.

Bridgman Bob

Always enjoyed your posts and seeing your work, look forward to more!

Bridgman Bob

Confronted with similar fabrication question on my 1:50 scale Puritan, I fell back on my local

Ace hardware, more out of curiosity than any real expectation. Searching thru the metric hardware 

bins found 1.6mm diameter washers of stainless steel. Good size match and were able to 

solder to eye bolts. No shipping costs or waiting,  and able to pick out the ones I thought were the best. 

Bridgman Bob

The features Roger mentions are critical for proper and useful operation of a band saw, even more so than motor power. 

They will permit setting up the saw correctly and allow for accurate usage.

Bridgman Bob

Usually for anchoring situations, chain was used next to the anchor to take the potential

of damage from lying on the bottom. The rest of the rode would have been hemp to absorb 

and flex with the strain shock loads. Photos show the anchor on deck where the chain is 

fasten to it. 

Good  point about Bluenose being a "racing schooner", probably would not have the anchor

chain on board during a race.

Bridgman Bob

Steve
Thanks for the tip on YKL and Gutermann, unaware of those colors. Should be easier to work

than bead wire! 

Bridgman Bob

Copper powder is a component of modern day bottom paint. It is mixed into the binder before the paint is applied.

The power is a fine as face power, and I still have tools that are stained by it, doesn't wipe off. A common component of

Interlux bottom paints, don't know if it's sold separately. You might have to haunt the boat yards this spring looking for a possible sample.

Bridgman Bob

Kit instruction for 1:50, 1885 Puritan call for o.5mm "metal plait" material for shrouds and stays. Material that came with kit

looks like a braided wire, gray color, flat, and less than a millimeter wide. Have not worked with this type of material for rigging

not sure how to make end terminations at mast, dead eyes and other terminations. Material is pliable and twists easily, but not sure 

how to finish it off neatly. Also looked at beading wire of similar diameter as it is pliable and easily knotted and available.

Suggestions, recommendations would be helpful!

Or, I just may revert to non-metallic material. 

Bridgman Bob

John:

Still struggling to finish my Puritan, how did you handle the rigging, plans,

plans call for "o.5mm metal', I've never worked with material and am looking for methods,

procedures to do so.  Came across some beading wire of various sizes, that is actually stranded and flexible

enough to knot. 

My be easiest to revert to usual fiber material.  

Bridgman Bob

Mr. Bean:

Translation from my Mamoli Puritan kit: OTN=brass, CO=hemp rope{?}, NO= walnut. The instructions

lists 22 other codes. Cross checked with my instruction for my America kit and they are the same. Instructions

are printed on the inside of the folder that held the drawings mines in taters, but mostly usable. Plans require close 

inspection as they contain details not mentioned in the directions. Found the kit enjoyable and resulting in a

nice model. I cheated by having my sails sown by a quilter friend, she didn't like the supplied material!

Bridgman Bob

Bob:

Thanks for the surgical knot tying video, just whatI need for fastening 2 to 5 mm blocks.

Bridgman Bob

The next time you visit your friendly dentist ask him if he has any of those micro files they use on root canals.  They come to a needle point

and are about 2'' long, though and sharp, with differing diameters and are disposed of after a single use. Great for reaming holes in mimi Blocks,

and if you are  brave, they work in a Dremil tool chuck.

A further question is how best to run rigging lines thru blocks that are mounted on various locations on a model, deck, railing, mast fittings that are 

almost inaccessible? A timely question for my current stage of build.

Bridgman bob

Browsing the local [an hour away] Hobby  Lobby store noticed that they carry BSI CA  and Testors paints, both enamel,  acrylic and spry cans.

An unexpected surprise and convient source.

Bridgman Bob

Curious about the accuracy of my HP Envy printer, printed the attachment and was surprised the print to be dead on for all scales without 

any adjustment. The pdf could be used as a calibration monitoring means for a printer. Also convenient comparison between the various

scales.

As an alternate suggestion, print it out on a suitable transparent media and protect the printed surface. Much easier to take dimensions

off a drawing using a transparent scale.    Now where do I save this file,?

Thank you Mark

Bridgman Bob

Wefalck:

Found some gears of the right diameter, "jewelry making gears", but as you noted thin. Will stick two together and see how they look mounted

on the winch frame. Their profiles are good machine representations. Much less frustrating than my attempts to form gear profiles.

The joys of 1:50 scale. Thanks for the suggestions.  

Keith:

Thanks for the heads up, memory jog for the steam punk "stuff". Should make fabrication much easier!

How are things in Michigan?

Bridgman Bob

Attempting to model deck mounted manual center board winch, 1:50 scale, that consists of two gears, 1/4" and 1/2". 

Design of winch is ca 1885 and is patterned from photos of original vessel. Have no access to metal working tools,

and fabricating them from wood results in less than satisfactory , if

any results. Gears can be of any material or color as size is important.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Bridgan Bob

Kurt:

Have Microlux saw by Micro Mark {doll house saw} its slot measeurs 0.320" deep,and 0.110"  wide. Not sure of the preciseness of the machining. Exchanged an extra 

slot guide from another Micromark attachment  with the one on NRG strip jig and it seems to work fine. Thanks for the 

follow up.

Bridgman Bob

A readers quick tip in the March/April, 2022,  Fine Woodworking magazine suggests using UV light to detect misplaced 

glue smudges, including Titebound, before finishing. It appears some glues are made to glow,from UV light and therefore detectable.

A UV flashlight  seems to be sufficient. Have not tried it, seems simple.

Bridgman Bob

Another simplistic solution is to construct a dust collection system using a small box window fan and a furnace filter.

Find a window fan bout 24" square and a high efficient furnace filter of the same dimensions, tape the filter to the inlet side of the fan all around the filter.

Place the fan adjacent to your work area and run at the appropriate speed. Look for the quietest running fan. Several years ago, Wood magazine was evaluating 

dust reduction equipment for wood working shops and assembled the above contraption for comparison and found it to be 98% as effective as  the factory made equipment.

Bridgman Bob

Thank you Mark and Bob for your replies. I had these dividers for many years, but never able to sort out 

their full capabilities other than simple proportions. Even found instructions for the same model to 

perform speed time navigational calculations though I'm long beyond needing that function. Bob, if convenient,

could you forward a clearer copy of those instructions as the table on the bottom half is difficult to make out.

Thanks again

Bob

Does anyone have a source for instructions for the proper use of proportional dividers? Google search returns

use for  art work proportions and not much else. Have pair of old Weems navigation dividers from Air Force

navigation brother identical to those shown in Bob Cleek's photo. Has markins use on maps different scales 

and straight proportions. No instructions otherwise.

Thanks,

Bridgman Bob