Jump to content

Ryland Craze

Moderators
  • Posts

    1,511
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ryland Craze

  1. The video above was made by Jay Brent who goes by Modeler12 on MSW. He has not been active on the forum for several years. I hope he is OK.
  2. Hi Peter and welcome to Model Ship World. Thanks for showing your model railway. You are a talented modeler and will do well building wooden ship models. Glad to have you aboard.
  3. Hi Dan and welcome to Model Ship World. You have received some good advice on selecting your first ship model kit. I look forward to seeing your choice for your first build.
  4. Excellent build. It is nice to see an old vintage kit completed.
  5. On my model, the wales pretty much followed the top of the frames. I do recall that I had to trim down a couple of the frame tips at the bow and the stern to get them to be even with the top of the cap rail. The most important thing is that you want a smooth sweeping sheer while leaving a 1/16" gap at the bow and stern for the cap rail. No two models will be the same. You also want the tops of the frames to be even with the top of the wale as this is what the cap rail is glued to. The frame tips will be sanded down later in the build when the frame centers are removed. You also want a consistent height of the wales on the port and starboard sides to prevent problems with alignment further into the build.
  6. I would put the top wale on first to give you the correct run of the sheer and also see how far you are off with the bottom layer of planks. You could make a new wider bottom wale plank to see what it would look like. If you are happy with the look, then go with it. Just remember that you will have a printed frieze and moulding strip to be mounted on your wale.
  7. Rick, You did a nice job on your planking. All of the joints and fitting of the planks into the rabbet look great. You will have to address the gaps in the bow and stern. You still have the wales to install. I would add a small strip of wood on top of the top plank from the bow back to the joint at the fifth frame leaving a 1/16" gap for the caprail at the bow. At the stern, you will only need a small strip of wood along four or five frames to leave the 1/16" gap. The next step would be to install the wales (second set of planks) leaving a 1/16" gap for the caprail at the bow and stern. The top edge of the wales may not match the run of the filler pieces, but you would sand the top edges of the planks to make a smooth sheer. The wales would cover up your patchwork. Your wales may not match the first layer of planks, but this is the only fix I could come up with without a lot of rework.
  8. Hi Dlowder and welcome to Model Ship World. You have quite a collection of kits to choose from. I like your idea if doing the NRG Half Hull planking project. I think it will build skills that you will use on your other kits.
  9. Keep working with the plank where it fits in the rabbet at the stem. It looks like the bottom edge of the plank is not all the way forward in the rabbet. For cracks that opened up, I used Minwax natural wood filler in the tube. On my model, it was an exact match. I experienced the same thing with cracks opening up on my model.
  10. Looks like the real thing. You are doing a good job on building this model. If you can't make it to a craft store for dowels, Walmart may have them in their craft department.
  11. Hi Greg and welcome to Model Ship World. The build logs are segregated by era, such as 1851 - 1900 and 1901 to present. If you search these build log topics, you may be able to find a kit that is close to what you want.
  12. I watched the video today and it was excellent. It should be required watching for those that are new to owning a miniature table saw. Well presented. Thank You.
  13. Michael, Thanks for the comment. I have been following your Medway build and you are doing a really nice job on building it. It is nice to see the progress you are making on this fine kit. Joe, I appreciate your comment. My goal is to finish my 1:48 scale 18th Century Longboat. I would like to have it finished so as to display at the Northeast Joint Clubs Conference on April 30th in New London, CT. I have found the smaller scale kit more difficult to build than the Medway Longboat from Syren Ship Model Company.
  14. Congratulations on finishing this model. You should be proud of this build. I have seen many Philadelphia Gunboat models over the years and yours is just as nice as those that I have seen.
  15. Wonderful work. I really like your detailed build log with all of the research. I cannot wait to see more.
  16. Beautiful model. Congratulations on finishing this kit and thanks for sharing your build with us.
  17. Hi Reece and welcome to Model Ship World. I had a look at your build log and you did an excellent job on building your Dory. You are off to a good start in this hobby.
  18. Ron, Could it be John Earl's website: http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
  19. Nice save on the replacement plank. I had to make several new planks for my Medway as I had messed them up in trying to fit them to the hull. You will place this learning experience in your brain for future builds.
  20. Excellent job on your first build. You have learned skills that will help you on future builds.
  21. Congratulations on finishing this model. I really like the way you weathered this model. You do excellent work.
×
×
  • Create New...