Ryland Craze

Next up is the 1:24 scale Revell Porsche GT-1 Evo, 1997 LeMans winner.
 

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

Outstanding!!!😊

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

An almost impossible question to answer Erik, as it’s all about perception. 
For what it is worth, your Hull is pretty pristine, so weathering the sails may present a discord.
 
The other consideration is that once started there’s no going back, a tricky decision.
 
Good luck
 
B.E.

Hi Keith, well again sorry for the long delay as you might have guessed I have been down a few more of my rabbit holes. The deck sounds like a great project. The ability to set up the track on a nice flat surface is a plus with live steam, and given the climate in our parts of the world the ability to take it up over the winter is not such a bad thing really. We are going back down temperature wise it is currently -20C and overnight are set to get down to -36C in the next couple of days. The RH Billy looks great, was the kit difficult or an easy job? I think they sell their cylinder sets as a separate item. I have considered buying a set to bypass all that side of the work.
 
And regarding the other rabit holes I have been working on a 12 foot long by 2 foot wide layout in 7/8th scale of a section of a locomotive building building works with the Crewe works as inspiration.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then there is the Hospital tramway model layout that is also 7/8th scale and just 4 square feet of model surface .
this first picture is in the public domain and shows the intersection of two corridors and one of the electric locomotives.

 
This is my proposed floor plan.
 

 
and the 3rd or fourth iteration of the loco.
 

 
The wooden flooring is laid over some old salvaged rail from some HO gauge set track that was soldered to brass spacers the gauge is 1.25 inches

 

 
The flooring is Yellow cedar.
 

 
Then there are these two locos, One of Montagues new fangled electric experimental locos. this parts salvaged from an old battery drill. it is 1:10 scale and 45mm gauge

 

 
My own design for a forward and reverse switch using a rotary set of wipers.
 

 
testing the efficacy of the switch
 
It worked well enough
 

 
Using the old third hand to do a bit of soldering.

 
And finally this odd loco using some salvaged printer motor and gears with some Servo link plastic chains for the drive, it has gone through many iterations as well it is based on the only known photograph of a 2 foot gauge loco built by the Saunderson Gifkins Tractor Company and is dated around 1912


 

 

 

The gas tank is some .005 thou styrene wrapped around a block of Poplar the gas cap is a watch winder from the stock of watchmaking bits that I acquired from an old friend.
The battery will be located in the water tank that was also used as added weight for traction. it is 7/8th scale and set up for 45mm track gauge, the loco will be using a LocoRemote control system that uses my phone to control it.
 
That pretty much sums up the last year and some of my rabbit holes.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I agree with Matt, in my humble amateur opinion, both W1 and W2 look fine, no!, more than fine, I would be happy with either version, but we all find faults with our own builds, that others may not see.
I know if I built another Winnie I would use liteply, not mdf, for the bulkheads, for ease of cutting and fairing.
At the end of the day it is your build and if you'd feel happier doing mk3, go for it.
Btw the white hull looks good and you have W1 wood so best of both🙂

And another build comes to an end. Tamiya did a great job on this kit, it was a pleasure to build.
She now finds herself in her resting place along side the '40 Ford Coupe in the display case. At some time in the future, will need to devote one entire shelf to motorcycles only. Others are waiting in line to be built.
Thanks for following along and for all the encouragement along the way!
 
 

This came from Jazz Hobby out of Hong Kong. Fast and reliable. Always low prices. Main land China is a totally different animal. Good luck with that.
Big difference with Taiwan, Hong Kong, or Japan as opposed to mainland China.

Need to install top of triple tree, handlebars, connect front brake lines and calipers, a couple of rider comfort pads, foot pegs, then a few last placard decals before this is done.
 

This particular model hasn't come out in the USA yet. Had to order it from Asia. There's a hobby shop I use in Hong Kong who is very fast, low prices, and reliable. From time of order, takes less than 2 weeks to get a parcel from him. 

Thanks OC
 
Just need to finish the front forks and wheel/brake assemblies, then all the part sub assemblies can be brought together and close this one out.
Dry fit check...
 

Perhaps, Wefalck, you are more experienced in photoetching than me. I was a complete greenhorn in it, starting from point ZERO!
For me, strangely enough, preparing my artwork, and later on copying it onto laser transparencies, wasn't a problem. Just time consuming. The transparencies (my "negatives") turned out quite fine, enough details, sharp borders and nice b/w contrast. I saved them onto a thumb drive and took it to a nearby Kinko, asked them to photocopy them on laser transparencies, using their highest resolution and max. contrast. They turned out quite nice, certainly adequate for my purpose.
Then, I tried to prepare my brass plates, sanding them into madness, sand paper, starting from about 1000 to 3200 grads. Then I didn't know if I shoud rinse the brass with some isopropyl alcohol or another degreaser. Mr. Berger later on told me that he doesnt' use any degreaser, just sandpaper and makes sure that the water runs off from his brass in "sheets" and doesn't "gather up". So, I stopped degreasing it, after having some problems with it. Than, there was a problem with applying a film (photoresist) on my plates, first removing the outer, curled up protective plastic sheet with sticky tape. It turned out that the photoresist, being very thin, was reacting differently, if I cut a piece from the bigger roll with an exacto knife, versus if I cut it with a pair of scissors. If I used an exacto knife, sometimes I had real difficulties separating this protective layer from the emulsion; that layer wasn't separating nicely, was tearing up the emulsion, and so on... Frustration!  But when I used scissors, the separation along the edges was somewhat easier - I don't know why?
Then, I had a problem with applying the piece of photoresist (exposed emulsion side down onto the brass). If I used a clear tap water to rinse the brass after sanding it untill it looked raw and shiny like a baby's behind, I would find that, after laminating the "sandwich", the tap water would be leaving blotchy, milky spots between the metal and the layer of photoresist, even though before the lamination everything looked perfect. These spots would later on make etching difficult and uneven. So, I started using distilled water for rinsing brass after sanding. That helped.
Than, there was a problem with adequate exposure time in my home made UV light box. I had to determine the best time; not too short, because the emulsion would be too soft and the developer would wash away EVERYTHING, or not too long - than the emulsion would harden so much that the developer would not remove completely areas to be etched away later on. My optimal time turned out to be about 90 seconds (45 seconds on each side, while exposing both sides simultaneously). Generally, if you use a specific UV light source (with appropriate UV light lenghts), the exposure time is much shorter, that with using a regular incadescent lightbulb. And the etching process is more even.
Finally, I had to determine proper concentrations of my chemicals. Mr. Berger gave me some tips, but it turned out that I was using a wrong developer. It was supposed to be Sodium Hydroxide. And mine was! I got it inexpensively from somewhere on line. And I was using 20% concentration - 1 part of this lye to 4 parts of water - like in Mr. Berger's tutorial. But my developer wasn't developing anything! I was getting more and more frustrated and started already to think about etching my plate in some kind of professional etching service.
Then I changed my developer into the one from Micro Mark. A major difference! I started getting some results!!!
From that point on, it was just a matter of finetunning the entire process.
So, as you can see, there are multiple variables to determine before you'll start getting acceptable results.
Then, in order to further improve the quality of your etched parts, perhaps one has to perfect further his artwork. I agree with you on this point.
 
Also, one has to remember, that there are many other chemicals and processes used in photoetching, which require yet different variables to perfect it. I just was using Sodium Hydroxide for developer and Ammonium Persulfate for etching, trying not to complicate everything too much.   :-)
 
Best regards,
Thomas

For more info on the topic, check out this link:
Photo Etching - do it yourself - Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings - Model Ship World™
 
I did not use the Micro Mark kit, since my pieces had to be way bigger - hence I had to build my own UV exposure lamp, get a bigger laminator and a bigger developing tank. I based the entire procedure on the very informative tutorial by Gene Berger (link included in the above mentioned thread), so I used different chemicals and exposure parameters than those proposed in the video. There are many ways to "skin the cat", one has to choose what is better for him and what is available in his area.
This is definitely doable at home, but it is a learning curve - one has to determine all variables based on one's trials and errors.
Do not expect to do it once and end up with gorgeous results! Patience!!!
Have fun...

Thanks, Ryland. I'm learning quite a bit on this model, which is the point. I do wish that the instructions were consistent throughout. But I'm confident that I can overcome these problems. . .
 
Bob 

Thanks so much Derek, Bob and the "likes".
 
I've now completed the main deck furniture and fittings. These included the hatch coamings and gratings; the galley chimney; the main bitts; the gallows; the windlass and belfry; the pumps; the bowsprit bitts and the guns. This work was quite straight forward, using the excellent laser cut and PE parts. The guns presented the only issue-- whether or not to rig them . After experimenting with the tackle, I chose to go with breech ropes only.
 
Now it's on to finish the remaining hull items, including the head, which I continue to put off.
 
Bob

What else would you expect at a Speedway, Glenn? 🤣🤣🤣

Breech rope is often enough, there’s plenty of visual appeal all around on this model. Crisp work as always. I should use more towels. 
 
congrats on the vaccination hub. I got my first shot today at the Texas Motor Speedway as provided by my county.  Very efficient and fast. 

Hi All.
 
Things have been a little chaotic at work the past three weeks as we've become a mass vaccination site.
Time in the shop and on MSW have been curtailed.
 
Anyways here's a bit more of where I'm at. I've painted the gun ports and I highly suggest you paint them prior to pinning the PE to the outboard side. Saves a bit of clean up if you are a sloppy painter like me.
 
Mast coats were added with the edges rounded just a bit. Just something I like the way it looks. The gallows, main mast bitts and staghorn cleat beams were assembled and placed along with the hatch combings.
 


 
I also assembled a cannon and rigged it with the breach rope. I attempted the tackle but even using 2mm blocks and the smallest hocks I could make there was no space between the blocks and I did not like the look. So I will just be adding the breach rope.