Ryland Craze

I'm joining the fun of this "learning exercise". 
 
Started:
Using a foam core building board.  Rabbet cut.  (Without much thought I started cutting the rabbet on both sides of the keelson before I remembered that this was a half hull - oops)

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

It looks like my next steps are to :
1.) Sand off the excess decking
2.) Cut deck boards to size
3.) Determine the deck layout I want. Not a fan of what the picture on the box shows
4.) ... and something about treenails? Have to look up why they use that name.
5.) maybe varnish the deck, is it to early in the build to do that?
 
Looking at my last work , I see the starboard side poop deck has to much curvature in it. 🙄
Hoping this gets covered up with the planking.

Making progress on the backstays. Very unusual (I think) is that the upper backstays have longer lanyards on the deadeyes than the lower ones. But that's what the plans show.

 

Sorry friends for my long absence.  Has it really been nearly 3 years.  A variety of pressures with work, family, and an aging mother were then and now continue to put pressure on my time.  So my loving wife recently told me "You need to get a hobby".  "Why don't you clean out the garage and set up a place to work on your ship models again. Something to you help you relax and ease some of the stress your under".   For any young newly weds out there when your wife so delicately starts saying such sweet words in your ear, what she really means is your are really becoming a pain in my backside and you need to do something about it, now!  I have a nagging suspicion this may have all been a ruse and her real master plan was just to get me to clean the garage.  Well be careful what you wish for sweetheart!  I am a dead mad if she ever reads this. 
 
So never one to go against the sensible wishes of my loving bride, I am coming back and diving in head first!  I spent today in part setting up a new hobby shipyard in the garage.  I still have a ways to go before I am up and running.  My poor POB II has been in dry dock these last few years and she is now safely birthed in her new home.  She is a tad worse for ware I fear.  Her stem post is broken as well as damage to the keel and transom and several bulkheads for the side rails have been broken off.  Happily there is nothing that can't be mended.  I will be painting her eventually so these and other scars should be well hidden.    I hope that eventually you all will have something interesting to see here.
 
Cheers!

As anticipated, we returned to New Jersey for Thanksgiving. While there, I got a great deal of the rigging done. I probably would have finished, but for discovering that I was 1 deadeye short (probably lost in transport between Jersey and Florida at some point). That means that completion will have to wait for our next trip north, which isn't likely to be until late spring or even summer. In the meantime, I also have to get 1 deadeye. 
 
In any event, the attached photos show the model in it's almost completed state, lacking 1 shroud, final tying off of some lines and rope coils.
 
Bob

Yes there would be but they are seldom shown on ship models.  You could of course add one.  But its a bit "kitchen sink" for my tastes.
 

Yes that was all straightened out, thanks.  The tissue paper didnt work.  I used plain paper and it worked well.  The friezes you see are glued on permanently now.  More to add soon. 
 

Thank You!!!
 
I added the columns to the QGalleries.  The top and bottom of the columns were done using a scraped strip of boxwood.  Basically you scrape the strip like you would make a molding.  Then cut off tiny pieces that become the top and bottom of each column.  You still must file the sape on each side to finish it off.  This was a 3/32" x 3/64" boxwood strip.
 
Then the fluted column was added between these two pieces to complete each column.  These are laser cut from .025" thick boxwood.  They have laser etched flutes.  
 
Note how just a small strip of blue remains on each side of the columns.  I will start working on the other side so now so I complete the galleries at the same time.  Then I will put the shingled roof on each qgallery.
 

Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  I finally finished installing the simulated nails using 10LB black monofilament line.  I cut a short length of the line, dipped the end in some titebond glue and then inserted the glued end in the holes that I had previously drilled in the planks using a #77 bit.  Once finished and the glue dried, I trimmed the monofilament line close to the plank using a sharp blade.  I then gave the hull a light sanding and applied a light coat of Wipe On Poly.  Here is a picture of the line before I trimmed it.

Here is the hull with the monofilament line trimmed and a light coat of Wipe On Poly applied:

I then sanded the inside of the hull and applied Wipe On Poly.

Next up is to paint the cap rail and then install the friezes and the molding.  That will complete Chapter 3 of the instructions.

Hello everyone,  I've gone and done it.!! Bought the plans, set up the build log, printed the bulkhead patterns. 
Just don't know where I'm going to find the time or space for this one though.
Thanks for having me 👍😀 
 

OK, I bit the bullet and started the modifications to the stern by removing two of the rear frames. The critical part of this is, how many bulk heads need to be removed because you have to be able to mount the rudder and still have room for the drive shaft and prop. Ideally, it would be nice to have at least a 1/2" between the rudder and the prop. 

I used the Jax pewter for blackening. It was my first attempt working with metal blackening, so I have nothing to judge it against, but I was satisfied with the results. Just make sure the metal is super clean, and BRUSH the Jax on, do not submerge it. 
 
The stuff can be a bit pricey, but I found a little glass/jewelry  store on line that sells 4 ounces for  $6.00.  That';s a pretty good price.
 
https://glasssupplies41.com/product/4-oz-118-ml-pewter-black-patina/
 

Beautiful work. 
 
Thanks for the link for the fishing line.  The 0.010 loop in the kit JUST made it through the outside hull with scraps left over. Having enough to do the whole hull in one pass is a winner. 
 
I am am looking for the red paint like “Utrecht Crimson” and metal darkening products locally and striking out.   Feels like a basic question but it has me stumped. 
 
Thanks in advance, looking forward to your progress in part 4. 

I just placed my order.  Looking forward to this, I am sure I will learn a lot.  Now I need to clean the garage and set up a place to work.  

Thank you Toni for this wonderful tutorial. I hope everyone who still thinks long straight strips will do to plank a hull has understood that it is totally impossible. Maybe some of your readers are withhold from buying worthless kits for outrageous prices.
You did a great job.

Ok Toni I am in.  I will get a kit ordered and start a log...........here I go again 😀.   It looks like a fun and educational project.

Scratch-built Tenmasen from Paris drawings
 
Something that I tried, but failed to do on my previous Japanese coastal transport, the Higaki kaisen, was to make a Tenmasen, a small lighter that was carried aboard these ships.
 
Since the ships were too large to travel up waterways, they'd anchor close to shore, and this small boat was used to ferry crew and cargo to and from shore. The term Tenmasen (ten-mah-sen), or simply Tenma, seems to be used across Japan to refer to different types of workboats. 
 
My 1/72-scale Tenmasen was based on drawings by Paris, made in the late Edo or early Meiji periods. It differs from what I've seen in most Japanese references. It seems a bit simpler. Maybe more functional and a little less elegant than versions I've seen in books or the reproduction I saw on Sado island. 
 

I had a time trying to build this as a planked boat at such a small scale, so I broke down and carved the lower hull, then added the beams and upper hull planks and such. There is still some work to do on it, but all the structural work is done now. 
 
The boat is interesting in that it is very shallow draft and very wide. It's clear in the drawings, but you don't really realize it until you see it in 3D.
 
 
 
 
Boat Builder Douglas Brooks brought a model of a Tenmasen to the NRG conference at Mystic. It's the upper model in the photo below. That one was made by his teacher, and appears to represent a canal boat, as it was poled, and had no fittings for a sculling oar. 
 

 
The Tenmasen replica I saw on Sado Island, Japan, was very different, and had sawed frames added for strength. It had a pair of Ro, or sculling oars, but had a couple paddles, probably just to aid in manuevering.
 


 
I find it interesting that at the time Paris made his drawings of this small boat, unlike all the Japanese representations, this boat had 11 oars, and only one of them was a sculling oar. Whereas, all the Japanese representations show boats that are primarily sculled. Some, like the one on Sado, had paddles, but no apparent way to rig them to use as oars.
 
This is something that bothered me a bit when I went to work drawing up and building a model of an Edo period boat from 1803 and earlier. This boat was illustrated in a kind of book used by tax assessors. The boat, called a Tenma-zukuri chabune, or Tenma-style "tea boat", and was one of many illustrated boats that showed no fittings for the use of sculling oars. When I drew up my plans and built my model, it seemed that most of my knowledgeable friends in Japan felt that the illustration was wrong and that it should have fittings for a sculling oar.
 
I'm not one to ignore the only piece of actual historical evidence, but people were insisting that it have the fitting for a sculling oar, so I drew the plans with the fitting, but couldn't bring myself to build the model that way. The photo below shows that 1/20-scale model, mostly finished, but with a few details I've been neglecting. By the way, I made use of the vinyl cutter here to make those nail ends you see on the inside of the hull. I also used it to make templates for cutting those mortises in the rub rails. But, more about this particular model another time.

Anyway, the point being that I'm not sure if the use of the sculling oar was as widespread as people believe today. I have yet to find anyone who knows its history of use in Japan, though I think it's widely accepted that it was a technology that was imported from China, where it is called a yuloh. 
 
In any case, the Kitamaebune looks like it will be equipped with a tenmasen. 
 

 
Clare
 
 
 

Actually, I've read recently that someone was able to cut styrene up to .015" on the same machine I have. Any thicker required him to separate the parts manually with a knife. But, the Cricut Maker can definitely cut thicker.
 
Regarding the software, I went on both manufacturer's sites and downloaded their software for free to try them out to learn how to work with it first. Being on a Mac and not a PC, I was cautious about it. As I said, I preferred the Cameo software. Though both were free downloads, I ended up paying $50 for an upgrade to the Cameo software, primarily to allow me to import files that I could create in Adobe Illustrator, since I already know how to do a lot with that software.
 
As for the uses of the vinyl cutter, this is great for creating vinyl lettering, which one of the members of the Hyde Street Pier Model Shipwrights group in San Francisco introduced us to some time back. One of the members of my ship model club asked me if I could cut his ship's name for the transom on his model, which I did. 
 
It can cut pretty amazingly small details, though it is cutting vinyl, which can flex a bit. So, applying the cut vinyl requires a lot of care. 
 
I've recently some templates in vinyl, which gave me regularly spaced rectangles, which I used as a guide for cutting mortises on another Japanese wooden boat model I made. Saved me some time and kept me from drawing a lot of pencil marks, which are hard to remove from the soft wood. 
 
I've also considered using it to cut masks, so that the final product on the model is just paint, rather than vinyl. Haven't tried that yet, though.
 
Of course, you can cut other material, like paper. And for that, it works very well.
 
I do wish this machine were a bit tougher, though, as I would like to cut thin copper foil.
 
Clare
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  I finally finished installing the simulated nails using 10LB black monofilament line.  I cut a short length of the line, dipped the end in some titebond glue and then inserted the glued end in the holes that I had previously drilled in the planks using a #77 bit.  Once finished and the glue dried, I trimmed the monofilament line close to the plank using a sharp blade.  I then gave the hull a light sanding and applied a light coat of Wipe On Poly.  Here is a picture of the line before I trimmed it.

Here is the hull with the monofilament line trimmed and a light coat of Wipe On Poly applied:

I then sanded the inside of the hull and applied Wipe On Poly.

Next up is to paint the cap rail and then install the friezes and the molding.  That will complete Chapter 3 of the instructions.

Compared to the soft and malleable Tanganyika,  it's like strips of steel!

Old habbits... I always use these when I do the first planking. They are sharper than any pins i have came across. Bought them over 20 years ago in a local hobby shop that dont exist any more. 

 
For the first planking i am not so accurate: pins, pva, water, whatever works quickly. But for the 2nd layer i will not use any pins. Instead its CA, sanding, and the "Chuck method" prebending in the wrong direction with my heatgun.  

1st planking has begun!

As i said earlier, its a small kit... here you can see it in comparison with my Granado and Snake.

The only downside is that MDF is quite fragile. When i dryfitted the deck i managed to break two of these. I glued it back together so no problem in the end. However these really smal parts probably had been better in the pearwood.