Ryland Craze

Thank you for your  comments kirill4 and OC, much appreciated.
Post 66
Continuing outboard
Thinking about Scuppers
On Cheerful there are four of them running along the hull with the outlets sited just above the wale.
As far as I can see from the plans the scuppers are 1.5mm in the clear.
I'm certainly not brave enough to  drill the holes straight thro' the hull so mine will be false scuppers.
Scuppers weren't just downward sloping holes drilled thro' the hull they were lead lined pipes exiting the hull thro' a specific block fixed between the frames, with flanges turned on either end.
I wished in some way to at least replicate the flanges.

5818
The answer came in the form of brass hollow eyelets with a thickness of 0/1mm, 1/16th" dia and 3/32" length. I remembered that I had originally bought these for use on Pegasus but they proved a tad too large for 1:64 scale, but for Cheerful at 1:48 just about right.

5813(2)
The scuppers were chemically blackened  before a push fit into the hole.

5809
So far so good, I'm happy with the outlets.
 
The internal scuppers are far more tricky with the flange fitting; part on the margin plank and part on the waterway, running to the spirketting.
I take my lead for the internal scupper arrangements from  David Antscherl's  FMM book Vol 11.
Drilling the internal scuppers needs care to avoid splitting the very fine waterway strip.
 
I spent a day forming the flanges from slices of aluminium tubing, hammered  a little, and squeezed to form an oval shape.

5852
As I thought fitting proved tricky, but in the end I didn't like the effect. I thought they looked too prominent, so off they all came.
 
Approach 2 involved stamping flange shapes from a sheet of 0.1mm thick lead foil sheet.
This was more promising as the process was quicker  and the flanges moulded closer to the profile.

5879

5876
These are in a raw state but already they look more in scale and less prominent.

5888

5883

5875
I will leave these to allow for natural patination before I consider a coat of flat grey paint.
 
Time to consider  the Chain and Backstay plates.
 
B.E
07/02/2019
 

Hello everyone.  I finally made it back from Daytona and got some quality shop time in.  There has been quite a bit of progress since the last update but nothing unusual to report.  Just trying to be patient and not rush things to much.  
Below are a few pictures of where we stand now.
 

I got the cap rail installed with the inboard sheer strip.  And also the frieze trim.
 
 
I used a brass scraper that I had from my Connie build for the shear strip.  It seemed to work out pretty good and I like the result.
 

A rear view of the frieze and the shear strip. 
The pic below are after one coat of Wipe-On Poly.  It really brings out the color of the wood and the seams.
 
 
 
Almost time to turn my attention to the inside.  I'm working up the courage to get started on the nails.  I can never get those things to look as clean as I would like them to.  Then a little cleaning up on the inside and moving on to Chapter 4.....
 

Thanks Everyone for the likes and comments.
 
Mast Partner layouts glued onto some boxwood blanks to start making them.
 
 

So, its too cold to work in my garage.  The hull shaping will need to wait.  I decided to get started on cleaning up and painting the Britannia casting pieces.  Here's a few cleaned and primed pieces.  Still more to go.

Thanks for the liks!!
waiting for all the rope from chuck, so wile am waiting 
I making some progress on the mast😊
 
Svein.erik 

Good afternoon, Modelers,
My name is RG Head, and I am building the USS Constitution. This is my first ship model, but I have a misspent youth building all kinds of wooden, plastic and stick & paper models. I spent a 32-year profession in the US Air Force, but also have a tailhook landing. I am a draughtsman and appreciate details plans for any model. I have just completed four aircraft models, one of which is in the Coronado Library and three are in the San Diego Air & Space Museum. The first is a five-foot wingspan model of The Red Baron's Fokker Dr. I. The second, and the most complicated, is the 1916 Albatros D. II, wingspan of 6-feet flown by Oswald Boelcke. The third is the Hawker Hurricane, Mod I, 9-foot wingspan, 1940 Battle of Britain. The last is an 18-inch wingspan model of the A-1E I flew in Vietnam. Having run out of airplanes that the museum needs, I am turning to the USS Constitution, 1815 version, 44 guns. After building the Albatros, I wrote a biography of its famous pilot, Oswald Boelcke which is now in its third printing, with the German edition soon to be on the market. I have joined this Guild, the San Diego Ship Modelers' Guild and the USS Constitution Ship Model Shipwright Guild. 
More later as we proceed.
best regards to all,
rg
Business Card.docx

As a young kid I built many models mostly plastic, cars ships and planes and some wooden planes , then came girls and motorcycles and I got distracted. In my mid twenties I became interested once again and found wooden ships I had never come across in hobby shops and bought and completed my first a Hoogars, a 19th century fisher the Hendrik by Dikar.
A good project for someone new to wooden ships, it didn't take long and it stills lives above my fireplace 40yrs later. After that I thought I'd move move to something more difficult, another Dikar the Derfflinger. Then life got in the way(marriage and kids) and the Derfflinger was retired to a shelf for 35-40yrs? 
 
I had a forced medical retirement four yrs ago, after surgical repairs I'm healthy again but I couldn't return to my old career as a renovator.  Dying of boredom in the those four years I needed a something to keep me busy so I resurrected and rebuilt three motorcycles! That done I needed something else that was low budget (rebuilding vintage motorcycles is very, very expensive) the little boss wasn't happy. Last week high on a closet shelf I came across the unfinished Derfflinger. I spent an afternoon sorting through the box making note of what was there and what I'd need to scratch build. It's probably 98% complete. What is missing is a parts list to identify all the planking, and more crucially the instruction book, I do have four large build sheets. I'm aware the planking maybe to old and brittle to use but I'll give it a try anyways, I can always buy more planking.
 
Assembling in the incorrect order can be a pain, with a motorcycle I can just take it apart and do it again, not that simple with a ship. So the instruction book would be a time saver.
 
If anyone has built this ship and has pictures or a pdf I can download of the parts list and instructions it would really be helpful.
 
Thanks Robert
 
 

Just a quick update. I finished fairing the hull and I'm currently working on tick strips to mark the lines for planking, I had one oops while fairing which was I took a little too much off at the lower part of the transom. Not paying attention 😒. I'll probably need to use a little filler after the planking is done.
 

I'm currently making some tick strips to mark off the hull. This is my tick strip maker.
 

That is looking great Rusty!!!
 
Also ...just to let you guys know, I gave Rusty some new rope that I am testing.  Rusty is using rope that I made using a new custom brand of thread that I had made which is ultra smooth with ZERO fuzz and lumps.  You can see how defined the lay of the rope looks.  I am moving closer and closer to switching over to this new stuff.  It wont unravel at all just like my current offering.  
 
Great work Rusty...😊

Thanks Dave, Bruce and all the 'Likes'.
 
Dave, as this is my first ship, I focus on building techniques. I will test the weathering techniques during future builds. But it's true that I prefer to avoid painting the wood and prefer to play with the different types of wood.
 
Bruce, finally I used the basswood strips provided in the kit. I have ordered some maple wood but when I received the strips I realized that the strips were too wide (a mistake in the conversion from inch to mm 😯). Since I do not have a table saw, I decided to use the basswood from the kit in order to be able to respect the deck plan.
 
It's been a year since I started this build log and I must say that it was really very interesting and full of challenges. I would never have arrived at this result without this forum that contains a wealth of information and advice.
A big Thank You to all who share their techniques and tips 😊
 

Thanks Dave for this kind comment and thanks to all the 'Likes'.
I just finish today to plank the deck. I continue to simulate the caulking with black cardboard.

The margin plank was a little tricky and took me several  hours of work to find an acceptable fit.

A blank test with the deck structures


and finally I could not wait to test the setting of the guns.

The installation seems to me correct.


Now it's time for a little sanding and for the treenails. There is still a lot of work but it's really exciting to guess the final result.
   

Here is the gaff with the lines attached. 
 

 
And the gaff in position.
 

 
The lines are in place but will have to be either loosened or tightened as the rigging progresses.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hi All,
 
The masting and rigging kit arrived and I've finally found some shoptime so the adventure continues.
The kit contained wood for the mast, gaff, bowsprit and boom. It also contains the dead eye kits,
1/4" blocks, wire, brass, pins, flag, plan sheet, rigging line etc. to complete the model.
 

 

 
Here the wood has been lined off to start rounding them off. The gaff has the sides shaved off with a #11 x-acto.
 

 
The bowsprite and gaff completed.
 

 
And I forgot to take pictures of the mast and boom completed but here they are rigged in place. The hooks and eye bolts were made from supplied 22 ga. wire.
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by!
 
 

After nearly six years, apart from a few bits to be added whilst rigging, the hull is complete. I have added the lanterns and lots of eyebolts and now for the masts and yards.

Looking very nice.

I am moving along slowly. I have completed the task of installing the frames and putting the keel on. 
I broke a couple of frames in the process. Nothing I couldn't fix.
I used a hair dryer to heat up the keel so I could straighten it out. I got it pretty good.

Hello everyone,  back on the syren build
I finish making the corronades hooks ,need to blacken them.
I also made one bloks an hook yust to see how it looks ,
its about 6mm+ totalt and thats it☺ 
I cant make them smaller than that.
So am starting now to make them all!
 
Svein.erik

Lower deck framing completed, have to make both main and mizzenmast partners to finish off.

Thanks so much for all the great responses and the warm welcome. People really went out of their way to help me and it’s very much appreciated. I feel I should reply to each individual but I’m in a rush right now. So sorry.
 
I’m feeling a lot better about completing this now due to all the advice. 
 
I also just realised there is a step by step on the box! I was searching through all the paper work. I was feeling a bit lost without knowing what order to do things. It also states on the box: building a scale model is very easy. Just follow the photographs step by step.
 
next step will be do order some tools 
👍

Nick:
Welcome. I agree with everything that has been said here. 
 
Everyone here began where you are at some point. Even now, the most talented modelers always learn something new each time they make something. It never stops. 
 
I have been scratch building for a little more than 20 years. The tools I use the most are hand tools. Clothes pins for clamping are the easiest to get and will serve many uses. You can buy other clamps as you need them. The number 11 exacto blade with a knife handle will do for a lot of cutting. I recommend wood glue like Titebond for wood to wood joints. Clamp whenever you can as it creates a better joint. super glue (cyanoacrylate or CA) will do for metal to wood joints, although many prefer epoxy. Get a good ruler marked down to 1/32 inch and keep a SHARP pencil for marking. Keep it sharp.  Always take care with your tools. Respect their ability to hurt you and you can avoid a nasty cut. I speak from experience. 
 
Definitely start a build log. Ask lot's of questions, but ask them beforehand and the answers will be of greater benefit.  
 
Above all, have fun. That is what this is all about. Ship modeling is my stress relief. Do not let it create stress. Enjoy it and do not be afraid to walk away for a day or so if you run into a challenge that requires some thought. Go slow, read your instructions and plans, ask questions, measure twice and cut once etc.
 
Russ
 
 

Hello everyone
 
I recently purchased a model ship. The ‘Le Hussard’.
 
I’ve always loved these models and tall ships in general. So i made this purchase of this second hand model as the previous owner gave up due to lack of time. I thought this would be like a complicated LEGO model with step by step instructions. 
However it seems I was wrong. There is so much more to it. Skills to learn and terminology I don’t know. I read through the forums here about all the new people that give up. I hope that won’t be me. 
 
So where should I start? What tools do i need? Which glue should I use?
 
Im not sure where to start here. 
 
Thanks for any help,
 
Nick



 

I think you're right Dowmer, having pre-made the hatch surrounds to the plans as I thought,  I obviously didn't take the round down sufficiently to the deck level, and then forgot all about it as I moved onto other stuff.
 
Thanks for the heads up, we need more members to point things out that puzzle them or don't seem right to help keep us on track.
 
B.E.

B.E.
 
I have a question that has been nagging at me.  In one of your previous pictures of your hatch coamings it shows the edge square with the top rounded off.
 

 
I always thought the edges were rounded down to the deck to prevent nasty ankle injuries etc.  Here’s a picture of what I mean.
 

 
 
Are there other ways to model them?  
I’m certainly no expert, and I don’t mean to be critical, but I’m always looking for accurate or contemporary ways of construction.
 
Thanks
 
 

Post 64
Mast Coat
This is the last deck fitting I need to make.
Have been thinking about it for a while and I didn't fancy trying to drill and shape this boxwood ring by hand.
So for this little exercise I got the mill out.

5735
I also brought into use the Dividing head to remove the centre.

5736
The beauty of this tool is that it can be used in either the horizontal or vertical plane.

5737
This gives a clue as to the donor for the mast coat.

5739
Shaping the rim is the final operation.

5741
Not for the first time an old Boxwood chess piece has provided the makings.

5746

5755

5754
 A little more tidying up and another milestone sort of reached.

5760
Meanwhile the precious little boxes of fittings delight await their turn.
That about does it for the present, now returning outboard.
 
B.E.
01/02/2019
 

So many bits and pieces to make.
The mast was planed down from a 3/4' x 3/4" piece of stock into a shaft that was approx. a 1/2" on one end and a 1/4" on the other. The base of it was inserted into the hole in the deck that it will reside and the top of the deck marked on it. Eight flats were then planed on the bottom three inches. Mast wedges were glued in place so that the tops of them would be above the deck when installed. They would be trimmed to a final fit at a later date. It's hard to see them but if you look close, you can.
　

　

　
Mast hoops were next.
Long thin strips were soaked in ammonia, wrapped around a half inch dowel, clamped and left until they were dry. I had a lot of fails just to get the ones I did. So many of the strips just cracked before I could wrap them. Others didn't get wrapped tight enough. The ones that worked the best were like the one in the lower right part of the picture.
　

　

　

　
The coils were separated into pieces that made more than a full turn around the dowel. They were held tightly around the dowel again and an angle cut was made across both pieces where they overlapped. Next, they were held down on a flat surface so that the cut ends would come together. CA was used to glue the ends.....and my fingers. After they were sanded, they were dowsed in CA. again to insure they would stay together and be strong. These are what I ended up with. They are not all perfect but the imperfections shouldn't be as visible when they're in place on the mast.....I hope.
　

　
The boom was also made. I used the 3/8" dowel that was supplied in the kit. A flat was planed on two opposing sides of the dowel on one end. Boom jaws were shaped and then glued to the flats. A final sanding blended them into the boom nicely. A number of fittings were attached to the boom. Fairleads on the underside for the boom hoists, a cleat on the side, near the end to tie off the boom lift line and a couple "n" shaped wires that will be used to attach the sail.
I don't have a picture of it as It was being produced.
　
I moved on to building the winder based on the plans provided. I was given two sewing machine bobbins. They were to be cannibalized and used as part of the reels. The picture shows most of the parts before assembly.
　

　
Now comes the first time I would need to make something out of metal. I had to make three "clamps" to hold down the reel and drive shafts to the frame.
　
The kit came with an assortment of different metal supplies. A 5" x 6" piece of aluminum sheet, a 3/32 steel rod, a couple of very soft aluminum rods and a few other odds and ends. Based on a decision I had made earlier as to how I wanted the boat finished, it was all replaced with brass. And besides, the learning curve was going to burn up a lot more material than the kit gave me.
　
To make the clamps, I cut a strip of sheet brass with a heavy duty pair of scissors. Then it was wrapped around a piece of the brass rod that was going to be used for the shafts. It was then bent with a pair of pliers to form wings. Holes were drilled in each wing. The ends were filed and they were attached to the frames with brass brads and CA.
　
Here's my winder.
　

　
Here's a picture of Lady Katie's winder, frame and one of her dredges.
　

　
They don't really look that much alike. It will be along time (maybe never) until I can make things like that look realistic.
　
This is one of the things I decided to try and make better after seeing some of the work on this site. Just recently, I added control handles to the winder. They are a little wide for the scale. I also think that the whole winder is a little on the big side. It probably should have been a 1/4" smaller in all directions. This is going to have an effect later in the build.
　

　
Two more pieces of rub rail needed to be added. One goes against the existing rub rail in the area of the rollers and the other goes just below it at the water line. They are meant to protect the hull from being damaged when the dredge is hauled in. I made a simple jig to set a bend in them so they would be easier to attach.
　

　
While waiting for the rub rails to dry, I mounted the bowsprit, the knight heads and the Sampson post.
　
With all the woodworking done, it was time to paint the hull.
　
Reed.