Ryland Craze

Again, I am trying to figure out whether to go painted or au natural.
As above the piece from the kit but painted and 50/50 varnish on the boxwood.
 
Leaning towards the painted in order to get some contrast, but the natural looks good too........  HELP!
Maybe doing two sets and then take it from there......hmmmm
 

And THAT, my friends, is how the MASTERS do it.

Guys
 
All I can say is that I am careful and slow to a fault.  Its tough to get stuff done this way.   But I do agree everyone should just slow down.  Its what I recommend  a lot of folks to do...
 
Anyway...back to Cheerful.
 
I was able after two attempts to shape the boom crutch and create a procedure for doing so.  The key was starting with a much thicker piece and making the boom crutch a bit over-sized to start.  I cut out the boom crutch on a piece of 1/4" thick boxwood and carefully adjusted for three angles.   When completed it will be just 1/8" wide to match the width of the fashion piece.  Now that the starboard side is complete I can do the other and take pictures at every step.  This is certainly one piece that needs slow and attentive care to the angles involved.  The boon crutch must be turned inboard slightly so the boom can actually sit in it.  This is tough because the fashion piece and the side of the hull goes in the opposite direction!!!   This one piece took me over four hours to produce, shape and paint to a finish I found acceptable.
 
A few careful reference marks and filing...then turn the piece inward and you are good to go!!!   I will have a step by step soon.  You can see the second boom crutch over-sized and ready to shape in one of the photos.  Note the tail is left long so the proper angles can be created while sanding it shorter.
 
Because the boom crutch was painted black it might be hard to see in these photos but essentially the boom crutch must match the angle of the fashion piece when viewed from the side and from astern in two planes while being turned to line up with the path of the boom (or the main mast).  All while hiding the seam between the two pieces...thank God it is supposed to be painted black.  
 

 

 

 

 

The hinges are made and in place. They turned out the way I wanted them.
Working with the 110gram paper was quite an easy approach.
I have decided not to paint the seats.
Looking at the picture it looks like I could have put simulated "going through bolts" in place.

Locker with hinges in place but not glued.

Thanks Bob. I think this is working out pretty well. The model is supposed to have a row of plates at the base of the upper plank as well as the lower plank. But, since I've painted the lower plank black, I'm not sure that it's necessary to add the plates there. Real plates were actually inserted into recesses, and I know that on many boats, the lower recesses were often filled with putty instead. I presume that would then be painted over after the puttying.
 
The trick after all this is done is that there were often plates, or maybe they were just painted areas, on the deck house too. Not quite sure how I'll deal with that yet.
 
But, in the meantime, I was able to finish off the row of plates on one side of the boat. Turns out that a section of text I was having trouble translating was telling me to do pretty much the following:
 

 
Laying out a strip of masking tape with sticky side facing up, in my case I chose blue painter's tape, I taped the tape down to a flat surface and placed one of the copper plates on the sticky face, right at the edge. Then, using the plans as a guide, I laid down copper plates with 7mm spacing in between.
 
I trusted my skill with 5 minute epoxy since it's viscous enough for me to control and to keep a very thin layer, so I started with a needle, putting just a touch onto each plate, then going back and spreading across the plate with the side of the needle, regularly wiping off excess from the needle. I then peeled the tape up and laid the tape, sticky side down, along the edge of the plank, so that the plates were held in place in proper position until the glue set.
 
I think the Woody Joe instructions suggest applying instant adhesive one plate at a time and then rolling the tape down so that it holds the glued plate into place, then applying to the next plate, and so on.
 
This actually didn't take all that long. I carefully peeled up the tape after the glue had set, but while I could still push the plate slightly with my thumb nail to straighten and make final adjustment.
 

 

 
With this one side complete, I feel like I'm nearing the final stretch on this model!
 
 
Clare
 
Edit: Forgot to add this shot of how I was using the tape method at the bow...

So, consider a little change in direction, Sawdust Dave. Do you want to leave five sub-standard models or one really good one? I know which way I jump!

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

I'm working the kit now and am about 98% done. The kit quality is very good. The metal parts are excellent. The gig boats require repair. They are very good but the rosin hulls are full if air bubble holes and require filling in with putty. They turn out very good. The pictures in the instruction book are almost to dark to be much help. The assembly instruction book is very detailed. I recommend you read all the instruction book prior to building. I did not do that and found out latter that it was a mistake. I skimmed over the instruction book and dove right in. MISTAKE.  I prefer " plank on bulkhead " to the solid hull. To get the solid hull perfectly true is beyond my skill or patience. I am almost done and it has been a one year build. I am retired and work on the model almost every day. Hours worked vary. My guess is it is a 1000 hour build. I think it has turned out to be a very excellent build. I ordered the planks for the upper hull and the copper plates for the lower hull. I very glad I did. I ordered the paint kit but found out that I only use about one third of the paints. The quarter galleys are a bit of a mystery. The bow is a beast. Have fun, It tried my skills and patience. I used the internet a lot in finding answers to my questions. Pictures were my primary  references.

Ich bin etwas enttäuscht über die Interesse von den Schiffsmodellbauern!
Ich habe erwartet, dass mehr Anfragen und Diskussionen über die Holzarten, über die Werkzeuge und über die Technik wie das Holz bearbeitet werden soll, kommen wird?!
 
Zu den Bildern:
Der schwarze Puttenkopf ist aus Bruerée-Holz geschnizt, das Schild mit dem Löwen ist aus einem Buchsbaum geschnitzt, das 450 Jahre alt war. Und dieser Buchsbaum ist nicht weit weg von meinem Hause gewachsen.
 
Ich freue mich über jegliche Kommentare und Anfragen!
 

Ed : I would fair the bulkheads when the fillerblocks are glued into place.. I live 160 Km from Copenhagen on Fyn... 
 
Made a jig for bending planks, the first planks and wales is in the jig now drying. So tomorrow i can get started with the wales...   

My first attempts at "joggling" or "nibbling".  Followed the instructions and it worked out OK.
 

 
The planking is all laid in, and you can see the results of the joggling fore….
 

 
And aft…..
 

 
To finish the deck, I scraped it with the blade from my hand plane and a utility knife blade.  After some sanding I finished the deck with pre-stain conditioner and a 50-50 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak stain.

Doubles on the inside and singles on the outside.....
 

 

 

Timberheads are completed....now on to the boom crutches.  Just a word about those boom crutches.  These are probably some of the trickiest parts of the model to make.  There are going to be some crazy angles to create and much trial and error.  I expect to make quite a large pile of bad boom crutches.  This is for the benefit of all those building the model as well.  You will no doubt have a large pile of discarded crutches also.  I will do my best to explain how I make them step by step.  
 

 

 

 

Initially I joined the hatch frame corners with 45° joints. I thought a decent carpenter would work like this. Then I found in the clever books that a completely and incidentally simpler solution was used which also took the strain on those corners better.
So much for avoiding the easy way.
 
 
Whom the bell tolls...
As said before I constructed a belfry according to an illustration in 'The Global Schooner'. Sides and top were constructed with doubled and sanded 5x1mm walnut strips. The bell is from the shop and the small parts came from the kit.
Most of the furniture on the deck is only provisionally fixed. Before putting it permanently in place I will have to go over the rigging plans to find out which additional belaying points I will have to construct for the running rigging with sails set.
 
 
 

45° joint. Not so easy to make
 
 

joint according to several clever books
 
 

finishing work on the belfry
 
 

a simple but pleasing construction

Working on the mast and additional hull details.  The mast is comprised of over a dozen parts and is a nice little kit in itself.  I finally got to install some of the copper etching also.  Clare, what kind of glue did you use to install the copper pieces?
 
       Bob R.

Igor, I am reminded that Siddhartha, too, was only a student.
 
What you have created is truly magnificent. Not just the ship, but the shape of the bottle, the rocks, the setting, the perspective, the gestalt, and coup d'oeil. I think you have created a true work of art.
 
John

Thanks for all the support and encouragement all.
 
I fixed the anchors.  The other one was a bit loose, so it required a longer setting glue, so it didn't make it into the photo.
 

Rick, I understand what you mean about using weathering to bring out or enhance small detail, example small rivets, etc.  Unfortunately I do not have any nautical examples to show you. The weathered sails Steve posted above is an excellent example of weathering to make sails look aged (in fact his scale sails closely resemble the 1:1 scale 100 year old sails on some of our clubs ice yachts). I would study his results to pick up the technique.
 
The only example I have at the moment of weathering something other than small detail is this photo of an N-scale rotary snow plow. The weathering was done using Floquil grimy black.
 

 
It was done using the technique I described in my earlier post. I may have some other examples tucked away in storage boxes, if I can locate them I will post pictures here.
 
I agree Tamiya makes excellent paints. If you can find the original Floquil or PolyS brands of paints they also have an excellent selection of weathering colors. Unfortunately they are no longer being manufactured - as far as I can tell. I have not tried any of the newer brands that have come on the market in recent years.
 
Weathering a ship's deck would be interesting to do. I've never tried it only because I preferred pristine ship models. Weathering the effects of water spilling down the side of a ship from the scuppers and/or bilge pumps would be interesting to do also. Paste chalks and/or charcoal sticks would make some interesting grime effects.
 
You've brought up an interesting topic, thanks for doing so.

I created the rudder port by flipping the hull upside down.  I made a pilot hole and slowly opened it up and shaped it.  I made the rudder first which is shown below.  This was used to test the size and shape of teh port and when I was satisfied I touched up the red paint around it.
 

 
Then it was time to add the small top section of the rudder post.  I designed the model so it was simulated and put on in two pieces.  The laser cut longer piece is shown in the same photo below.  I left a longer tail so folks can sand it down to fit their models.  The deck level will probably vary model to model and this takes care of the issue.  Once filed down to fit, it was glued into position and painted. To pull off the illusion I used yellow glue which sets up slower.  By having the rudder made I was able to tape it in position so I could get the correct angle for this tiny piece.  This step was crucial.   It was tweaked while the rudder was taped on temporarily.
 
The yellow glue gave me a lot of time to move it around so it was positioned correctly and creates the illusion of a one piece stern post.  A little sanding on the outboard edge and some filler and it looked really good after painting.  I still havent decided if I will paint the inboard portion of the rudder head.  I probably will as is stands out too much left bright.
 

 

 
And finally....I made some time to paint the windlass.  I havent glued it into position yet but here are some overall detailed photos.
 

 

And finally....the deck is planked.  This is a big milestone for me because it is the last really big  messy job to be done.  The remainder of the project will be small fittings and less sanding.  There will be less dust and less paint touch up.
 
The planking was pretty straight forward after having lined off the deck.  I just following the plan I drew on the false deck.  Each plank was tapered to match.  The scarphed planks were handles much the same way the drop plank was on the outside of the hull.  If I thought it was needed, I made a card stock template.  The scarphed planks were cut from wider stock (7/32" or even 1/4" wide planks). 
 
Next I will create the rudder port because it will be the last time I can turn the hull upside down without too much trouble.  Once that is done I will return outboard and finish off all of the details.  The boom crutches, boarding ladders, scuppers and channels etc.
 

 

 

After doing the stern, it was almost a relief to get back to planking the lower hull. I've now done the lower segment on the starboard side through the rough sanding. I started with the garboard strake and then worked from top and bottom until the area was filled in. The final strake required some shaping and fitting, but generally the work went fairly smoothly.
 
Before moving on to the port side, I will drill and fill for the treenails on this side ( there are well over a thousand holes to be done on each side and I want to break up that task).
 
Bob

Thanks Piet!
 
Beginning to build jig for stamping the copper plates...

Good morning from Denmark...  Here´s an update on the Syren, It´s beginning to take shape... 
 
Got the stern framing in place, painted the gunport and made the filler blocks. 
 
Off to charpter 5. Looking forward to that.. 

The transom framing and counter framing will be visible through the great cabin roof (poop deck) which will be partially planked.  The kit provided the hull planking in hard maple, but counter and transom planking is in cherry.  I just finished cutting out the components for this framing, including the wing transom, out of hard maple to match the general framing.  To add some contrast, I redid the transom itself.  The kit provides two pieces to form the transom.  There is the transom proper (TR1) and an "overlay" trim piece (TR2).  Both are made of cherry.  I took the outline of the transom piece and traced it on some 1/64" plywood and planked both inside and out with swiss pear.  I then remade the overlay piece out of boxwood to match the outer bulwark planking.  Once the transom is fit in place, the bottom will be trimmed off and the overlay fitted with a plank as shown in the photo. The second transom in the photo is the two kit parts. I like the color contrast between the boxwood and swiss pear.