Ryland Craze

Progress is being made on the stern. Davits are done. Gun port lids are done. Stern ornamentation is done. Finally got a set of castings that were close enough to work. 
 
The davits sat high on the cap rail so I added a piece of wood as filler to blend it in with the cap rail. I'm understanding how any slip ups early comes back to haunt a person in a latter step. But hey, it gives my Syren its own character.
 
Made some progress on my quarter galleries and will continue the painfully slow process as I work on the ladders, and the rest of the cap rail details.
 
Richard

Welcome to another Syren build log!
 
I couldn't resist the Ebay bargain that I found of this kit on the Model Expo site, so I decided to make it my next project. Here is a sneak preview of how she was packed for shipping to my home city.
 


 
I have to say that the overall care was impressive in the way the kit was packaged! Considering that it had to come all the way from the US to my home town in Australia, it arrived nicely.
 
I have had a glimpse over the contents, and instruction manual/plans. I am very impressed with the level of detail in the instruction manual! The parts are nice and neatly packed, and it even included an apology letter stating that Model Expo was short on the Cannon Balls part. All I had to do was e-mail them and they will be sent free of charge! Great service! You can see why people on this forum have great things to say about Model Expo.
 
For now I will leave it as a teaser preview of whats to come. I would like to finish my Mare Nostrum before beginning the Syren...although it is calling out to be built. I must hold off on the temptation, and complete my Mare!
 
Regards
 
Adam

Connected frames together with a kind of false deck planking. It adds stability, frames or transom will not wobble.
 

 
Scrap piece of wood on top is used to clamp the hull upside down into the table vice - it would be in that state while planking and treenailing.
 

 
Now let's wait for glue to set - and it is ready for the frame fairing!

So sanded a bit and it looks better
 

Ryland
i am not taking it away from you, it works good for you, but those sanding sticks do cost a lot of money (at east over the time).
i bought a whole roll of this sanding paper, i thing grade 120 for near to nothing. this way its going to last me a life time... it barelly was showing any use on it.
also, if you push too hard on the stick, you bend the dowel you work on. if you hold it in the hand, you wil avoid any vibrations... and it really takes fraction of time, you can push as hard as you want and have the drill on full...
 
Pavol

I installed the coamings first (I assume that's what you mean). They were installed first when the ship was built so I tried to replicate that. I plan on installing the deck furniture just before setting the completed masts.
 
Here is a pic of how I did the coamings:
 

 
And one of the completed deck:
 

 
I used black construction paper to simulate the joints, sanded, and scraped the entire deck before applying the conditioner and stain.

Thanks for all the overly kind comments.  Welcome aboard Sam and Pete -----  and hello again, Kevin.
 
Update time.  The inboard planking has been completed up through the deck clamps.  It's all basswood.
 

 

 
Of some importance here is that the deck clamps, which will support some 30 odd beams for the quarter and fore decks, must be absolutely level to the deck and square to the centerline of the ship.  This required some plank 'juggling' / customizing to get it all just right.
Here, I've placed a deck beam temporarily in place to check everything along the way:
 

 

 
The fore and quarter decks will be half planked allowing us to view this deck, but a lot of what we see will be covered.  No matter, it needs to be right.  Which brings me to a comment on this kit.  Alignment (of everything) is important.  We saw this with the stern and it certainly continues here.  I'm still pretty new at this and, sometimes it tests my patience (or lack thereof).
 
Here's an overall shot:
 

 
Finally, a shot of the main cabin area.  This is where Ben's favorite aspect, the cabin floor, will appear at some point.
 

 
I shall now proceed to paint these inner bulwarks red to match the gun ports.  The ports themselves, and some other areas need some touching up and the shop needs to be policed.  The bulwarks in the Great Cabin will remain natural.  Then it's time to switch gears and decide what's next.  I could start setting up the margin planks in preparation for the Great Cabin floor ---- as per Ben!  But with Summer here, maybe something mind numbing like work on the cannon.  Or perhaps even some completely off-line detail.  All depends on the fishing/flying weather. 
 
Let ya all know next time
 
 

Small update.
 
I got a few strakes of the first planking in place, as well as the garboard. I began tapering immediately with the first one under the gun port template just to avoid crowding issues at the bow. I don't get at all obsessive about the run of planks or accuracy on under-planking, but I do generally use less than full length pieces because I just find them much easier to handle. 
 
That's it for a few days as I'm on the road for work until Friday. 
 
 

I have made and installed the waterways.  On this deck the waterway looks like a chair resting on its back.  To make the shape I took an old Dremel chisel blade and carved the shape into the end of the blade with thin cut-off discs.  The scraper was then cleaned up with a Swiss file.
 

 
I forgot to take pictures until I was almost finished, so I will describe the sequence.  I used drafting paper to make a template of the inside of the hull.  This was transferred to 5" thick stock and the segment was roughly cut out.  The waterway is only 4" thick but I made the stock over-thick in case I made an error with the scraper and gouged the surface.  The outer edge was then fit to the interior of the hull and the scarf was cut.  I used the scraper to scribe the inner edge of the waterway.  A sanding disc cut away the excess material on the inner edge and the scraper was used to form the top edge.  Various grits of sand paper smoothed everything out.  I was more concerned with a fair line on the inner edge since the spirketing will hide the outer edge of the waterway.  I started at the bow and worked aft.  After the first plank was installed, I made the next two planks, gluing them together at the scarf before installing them on the deck.
 

 
Finally, I made the aft plank.  The next three photos show the sequence of fabrication of the plank.
 

 

 

 
 
These photos show the waterway installed.
 

 

 

While watching glue dry over the past couple of weeks, I began to fool around with what to do with the forecastle. The last few days, I came up with my conclusion, and did the deck planking that I'm going to do. The result is a margin plank at the perimeter, a strip of planking down the center, and a small band of planking at the aft end to support the barricade and belfry.
 
All of the planking is holly, with the margin planks cut from sheet, using card stock templates, and the rest from strip, fitted around the openings and bitts. The caulking is simulated with pencil and the treenails are again simulated with golden oak filler in drilled holes. Wipe-on Poly finished that work. I also added the the steam hatch and the coaming for the stove stack at this time. I probably won't add anything else until after the bulwark planking is in place.
 
Bob

After reading the build logs on the Armed Virginia Sloop by MS I decided to give it a try. I am currently building the Virginia 1819 by AL and am up to the masts and rigging (not my favorite part). So to breakup the monotony I am going to start the AVS.
 
The kit arrived a couple weeks ago after waiting for 2 weeks for it to arrive (backorder). Since then I have been watching the box. I finally gave in to temptation and opened it. Everything was included when I did the inventory. I am not too pleased however with the walnut planking strips the edges are very rough and would require sanding almost every edge. Any suggestions?
 
Anyway a few pictures of the contents of the box and the infamous shipyard.
 
              
 
              
 
 

Thanks Russ, I appreciate your positive feedback and constructive criticism too.
The final two photos are of how she stands now with port and starboard sides.  I have roughly finished out two belts and this brings my progress and this log up to date.  It is also an excellent place to stop and enjoy an ice cold drink.
 

Thanks. It took bit longer to get back to actually building Rattlesnake. But anyway, in past three or so weeks I've completed rigging cannons, which also made hull complete except figurehead, and built anchors. I have photos of anchors only.
 
First treenails for two anchor stocks by cutting beech wedges from 0.8 mm strip:

 
Anchors stock halves were cut from walnut, glued, holes drilled for treenails and treenails tapped in:

 
"Iron" bands for stocks were cut from watercolour paper dyed with india ink. The strips were soaked in thinned white glue (watercolour paper doesn't get fuzzy when wet) and held in place with locking tweezers:

 
Anchor rings were cut from brass wire wound around x-acto blade handle:

 
And finally tung oil (which made treenails almost invisible), anchor assembly and puddening:

 
The pictures show only one anchor, but there are two identical ones as in plans. I think in reality there would be more, and more varied in size, but I'm building this one quite much "out-of-the-plans".
 
Next: will calculate how much I need to order wood for masts and spars. I think I'll also order rigging line ready-made instead of building a ropewalk; calculating how much line I'll need will be a challenge.

Just dropping in to say hello, she is looking great!

Getting back in the shipyard.  Starting to plank the side.  Needed to bend the planks so after soaking in a glass of water for a 20 or so minutes I gently bent the planks and then clamped them on this container 2 at a time.
 

 
Laying the first plank and gluing/clamping.
 

 
 
So it is much more noticeable now that I have the first plank layer, that the wale and the planks are not quite horizontal to the waterline.  They kinda point up right at the bow. 
 

 
 
I am going to try to lessen this with a bit of plank narrowing by sanding on each of the next 4 planks.

Thankyou very much Modelexpo! Just picked up a Syren for a bargain price on their EBay store, for $271 AU delivered! That's about $130 cheaper than retail price! I will soon join the large group of Syren builders on this forum.
 
Adam

Brett - both oil and water base work just fine, but look very different. Oil really brings out the color of the wood. The water based doesn't. I use both. I use the water based on holly. The oil based gives it a yello w tinge, while the water base preserves the white. I use the oil based on everything else.
 
Dave

It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
 
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
 
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
 

 

 

 
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
 
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done

I got a lot done today, started this log, sorted out creating a signature, linking my build log and gallery, and trying to post a picture to my profile.  There is a lot of great guides on how to do all that but it took me some time as I am only moderatly proficient when it comes to computers.  Next I started on making the plank above and forward of this stealer plank and botched it up as well  so I tossed it in the trash and started over.  This time it went better but still a gap crept in. Some times this hobby can be so frustrating and I am getting the feeling this may be one of those days. So not much progress but its progress.  Its a little agrivating to me as I have been looking forward all week to getting home and doing some planking but I think I am going to take a break for a bit and cut the grass.  Sorry for the rant, just needed to vent. 
 
Fair winds my friends!

This will be my third model ship and second plank on bulkhead ship. In addition to this web site I will be building the Pride of Baltimore II (POB II) with the assistance of Robert Hunts Sophomore course practicum, and of course all of you here at MSW. I thank you all in advance for your help and input along the way.

I must confess I am hesitant to start this log as there are already three magnificent build logs under way for this ship. I fear that I may have little to offer as I am very much a beginner and I do not posses any great skill, but I do have a desire to strive for perfection and like all of you a love and fascination with these beautiful tall ships that are reminders of our past. So with some trepidation and having being inspired by the craftsmanship of others here I have decided to take the plunge.

I chose the POB II for many reasons not the least of which is she is a beautiful ship, but also as I think she offers a great deal as a way to learn and improve as a model shipwright. She presents some new challenges compared to the AVS but in a way that is a natural progression for new builders.

The keel was first laid December 08, 2012 shortly after completing my Armed Virginia Sloop. Work progressed to the point where I had begun the process of planking the hull and had completed the first 6 rows below the wales. Some of the photos from early construction are posted below. Then life took me away and the poor ship has sat idle until recently. Like many others this hobby has a way of always pulling me back and the pride as waited patiently for my return.

Thanks Chuck, Kurt and Al for your comments and to those that hit the "Like This" button.  This is a fun build and I am enjoying it much more since I have finished the planking.
 
I have managed to get some more work completed over the last several days. 
 
Using a #11 saw blade that I purchased from Micro Mark (#11Saw Blade) I gently cut the tabs holding the bulkheads.  I braced the center of the bulkhead using my thumb and put pressure on the side of the longboat using my forefinger. 
 

 
After the tabs were cut, I gently wiggled the bulkhead unti I felt it snap.  This was a very satisfying feeling.  The bulkhead felt like balsa wood after working with the boxwood planking.  After removing four or five bulkheads, the inside of this little model started looking like the inside of a full size boat.
 

 
And here is a picture of the Longboat with all of the bulkheads removed along with my X-Acto knife with the #11 saw blade.  This is a well designed kit and I like the way the bulkhead removal turns this kit from a plank on bulkhead model to a plank on frame model very easily.
 

 
I took this model to the Hampton Roads Ship Model Society meeting today and it drew a lot of attention from the members.  I hope I can find the time in the coming weeks to continue working on this build.  It is a lot of fun and a great diversion from my job.

But now the good part. Quoting Chuck's manual - "That completes the model!!!" I'm still in progress with the display case, but she is completed! Yahooo!
Chuck, thanks again for that fun build, that looks simple, but actually forces to learn new techniques and go to the next level of accuracy.
 

 

 

 

 
Next buid would be a Longboat, since my wife really thinks it looks better with sails, and I want to make a better planking with boxwood
Ok, in reality I just want to make a pinnace again, this time avoiding all mistakes I did, but making the same model again is kind of silly, and I really love the look of longboat. Also, longboat build would be much slower - I will not rush things to complete it quicker.
 
Thanks everybody who watched, helped and commented - it is quite fun, much better then just modelling without being able to share!

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Additional mast assembly and outfit fittings. A list of special "Newsboy" rigging fittings typical of the mid 1800's is listed below:
 
Spar Setup
 
(1) Royal yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Topgallant yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Upper topsail yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(2) Upper topsail yard studding boom quarter iron (special fabrication)
(2) Upper topsail yard studding boom iron (special fabrication)
(2) Lower yard studding boom quarter iron (special fabrication)
(2) Lower yard studding boom iron (special fabrication)
(1) Lower topsail yard clevis assembly (Britannia casting)
(1) Lower topsail yard truss assembly (Britannia castings)
(1) Lower yard truss assembly (Britannia castings)
(1) Boom sheet assembly (special fabrication)
 
Mast Setup
 
(1) Main mast crane (special fabrication)
(1) Fore mast cap clevis assembly (special assembly)
(1) Fore mast clevis assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Iron stay assembly (lower topsail yard stay) (special fabrication)
 
This post completes mast fabrication and the fitting of mast ironwork. When construction resumes, mast sections will be assembled and outfitted with blocks and rigging lines per Rigging Setup Lists.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Not much to show for last weekend's work.  The garden has taken over most of my free time.  I have completed the upper deck hatches and ladderway.  The head ledges are bolted to the deck and the coamings are treenailed.  Even though I used a light colored wood for the treenails (bamboo) they are barely visible.  The nails securing the grating battens to the ledges were made by making a dimple with the point of a compass and then highlighting it with pencil. I scribed the main hatch cover to simulate a three piece cover.Openings have been cut into the aft hatch cover to accommodate the main jeer bitt pin. This will not be installed until I am ready to work on the quarter deck beams to prevent damage.
 

 

 

During the last weeks I spent some time on the figurehead.
 
As shown in the following images I used a block of pear wood cut to the right dimensions with a hand scroll saw (image 1a), glued a copy of the Syren figurehead from Chuck’s plans on it, cut it out roughly with the scroll saw (image 1b) and mounted it on a copy of the bow as a stand for carving (image 1c). By means of a rotary tool, different carving knifes and my sanding sticks (already used for the head rail) I refined the shape of the figurehead (image 2). The arms (and later also the head) were separated from the body as it was easier for me to focus on the body shape and the arms/ head as individual pieces. In this way the chances are also increased not to mess up the whole figure if the one or other part does not work out the first time  . The obvious disadvantage of this method is, however, that the figure needs to be pieced together later without showing too many seams. This turned out to be more challenging than initially expected.
 
As a next step the scales for the fish tail and the fin pattern were inscribed (image 3). To make the details more visible I enhanced them with some graphite powder gained from a pencil. The excess powder was “washed away” with Golden Oak wood stain (MinWax). Then I carved arms and head as separate pieces (image 4). Getting a decent looking face at that scale is a bit tricky.
 
The different parts of the figure were finally assembled, correct transitions between the parts established and the seams hidden. The result is shown in images 5 – 9.
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 

Image 3
 

Image 4
 

Image 5
 

Image 6
 

Image 7
 

Image 8
 

Image 9