Ryland Craze

Lots of progress on the Dory.  The base is complete, now comes gluing the dory to the base. This step took a steady hand because I was using CA glue to ensure a good adhesion to the cradles. You only get one try at mounting the Dory to the base. Luckily, I got it glued on the first try. Looks good.

Thank you all so much for your warm welcome, and it was my pleasure to serve.  I would do it all over again in a heartbeat!  If they come out with a geriatric submarine force, I'll be the first to join. 

Bollard timbers made. I'll put these to one side until needed.

Took a break from the dory to let paint dry and stay out of trouble so I  made the small barrel that the kit has you build. I also planked the inside and added some weathering to make it look old and beat up. Not sure if I'll weather the dory yet, I don't have the guts....or experience to take the chance. So the fisherman will be taking out a fresh built dory with an old bucket. I'd like to build some tools dorymen used to carry. I know a bailer is one, and a gaff is another. Any other suggestions would be appreciated!
 
Cheers, Tim
 
 

Hi Joe and welcome to Model Ship World.  I am glad your research sent you to this forum.  You will not be disappointed.  Also, thank you for your service to our country.

I'll second "take lots (and lots) of pics". That way folks like me will indeed see how its made. I don't aspire to build at anything like your level, Mike, but I'd love to see how you make things. 

Aft deadwood, stern post, wedges
With the addition of these parts, the central spine is finished. The stern post and the steps in the deadwood were cut on the mill. The straight taper in the deadwood, from the bearding line down to the foot, was done as described in Chuck's build log. There is a lot more wood to remove here than you might think. I often checked the work with a straight edge to insure that the final taper was straight and not rounded. More sanding will be needed later when it comes time to fair the cant frames.


Mike

Rear platform installed. I really screwed this up. I did not get the templete right and ruined 2 attempts at the platform. Thank goodness I do not have the cap rail on yet. Hopefully I can save one of the bad rear platforms for the forward platform.

Thanks Alistair, I don't know about longer UK hours, I suspect the fact I'm long retired has more to do with it, coupled with the fact I've now given up Golf. 😊
 
Chapter Three
The Assembly continues.
I pick up this stage by adding the deck beams for the Upper deck and will finish with the bow and stern assemblies.
Twelve beams are required that simply slot into the longitudinal braces (part30) There are three spares.
Note: These are located on the 4mm mdf sheets, not 3mm as indicated.

0415
My old Sphinx build board is re-figured for this early build stage.
 
The bow parts that build up the round are now assembled.
Note: Part#34 is located on the 3mm mdf sheet, not 4mm as indicated.
 
I followed the indicated sequence of fitting the bow extension pieces with Bulkhead 1 fitted to the keel, taking care not to get glue on the keel.
I then struggled to remove the bally thing from the Keel, and I began to worry that I may break something trying to free the bow section. I used a piece of dowel thro’ the Bowsprit opening to act as a lever to ease the part out, combined with pressure on bulkhead 2 and the extension pieces that fit over it.
Nevertheless, it was a bit of  an anxious moment.
 
The final parts were then added.
 
I read in Jim’s log that Chris had recommended a palm sander to do the fairing, given the size of this beast.
As a confirmed toolaholic, I followed Jim’s lead and got myself a B&D Mouse. (one of those sundries I referred to in Chapter 1.)

0410
I’ve never been a fan of power tools for delicate work on models, I don’t trust myself, but I thought I’d give it a go.
 Initial fairing of the bow section seemed a good place to start, and I was pleasantly surprised.
 
The mouse sits easily in the hand, and with the finger extension attached, there is no feeling of it running away and taking too much off too quickly.
The finger extension which acts like a sanding stick, runs across three of the bow extensions, and I think it will prove useful to reduce the amount of hand sanding required in the fairing.
 

0411
This is about as much as I felt comfortable taking off with the section off the model.

0424
The bow section was then glued into place.
 
Same procedure with the stern section.

0418

0420
The final section (parts 29) are pre-shaped before attaching to the keel.

0422
Completion of the fairing will be done on the model.

0425
All the bulkheads are now attached and she’s starting to get heavy.
I’m thinking of adding lifting handles to the build board ends.

0412
I have also invested in a white board to display Chris’s  beautifully drawn plans, I was struggling to find somewhere to open them out, and this Amazon basic board fits the bill.
 
B.E.
12/03/2023
 
 
 

Hi B.E.
I've just been catching up on your prolific outputs since I last wandered around MSW eight years ago. Extraordinary and all to the very highest quality. The Indefatigable looks like a fantastic kit and - no surprise - you are already proceeding at pace but with your usual accuracy. I will follow along as I will also troll through your other logs as they are always very informative. You are indefatigable! The UK must have more hours in a day than we have downunder - I'll have to check that as I'm surely wrong...
 
Cheers,
A

Finish!
 
I have been a bad build logger.  No interim photos.  Just got caught up in the masting/rigging/finish and got lazy about taking progress pics. 
 
You might notice no oars.  I made one.  It turned out fine, but I didn't have a lot of pleasure in the process and really didn't want to clutter up the nice interior with a pile of them anyway.  So my lazy nature won out!  
 
Anyway, it's done.  Lot's of places I know are not as good as I'd like, but since this is my first wood kit I'm still quite happy with the result.  I had fun, learned some stuff, and am ready for the next project and to get better. 
 
Thanks to all who've read along and hit the like button!
 

 

 

 
 

DeadEyes and Chainplates
 
My kit was missing one of the white metal "chainplate" parts that are also the band wrapping around the deadeyes.  I put in a request for missing part the day I received the kit and that's been almost a month.  Still no part.  So I got impatient and decided to try to make something.  I've seen pics of them made this way, with bits of wire and metal strip, so thought I'd give it a go.
 

 
I think they look at least as good as the ones that the kit parts would make.   Not accurate for this boat, I know.  But neither are the kit supplied ones, so whatever. 
 

I got a little further on the case. The base is assembled. Ended up being 42 x 14. White ash with black walnut trim. Acrylic will fit down in the 1/4 x 1/2 groove and be pinned in place with maple dowels. The Pegasus stands will be sunk down 3/8 to lock them in place. 

Thank you kindly @Spooky spoon. Rigging a sailing model, especially a complex, large vessel with square sails (during the “Age of Sail”), requires knowledge, a good set of plans, the correct mechanical bits (including rope,not thread),and lots of patience and TIME. I remind my friends in our hobby that once they’ve completed a fully-loaded hull, their build of a full-on sailing vessel is at about a halfway point in modeling terms. Personally, I really enjoy the complex challenges involved with rigging; I know there are many who dislike and even “hate” it. This is but one example of how eclectic our hobby remains; after all, because crafting model ships (whether scratch or kit)is a pastime, the whole idea is to seek relaxation, pleasure and a host of other satisfactions.
Go For It, I say! There are many really excellent resources here in the forum on how to up your rigging game; my Build Log is but one source.
 

Very nice job. I almost got this one last year when I lost my mind and bought 7 models. So I will follow along. Very nice work  

Addition of the following deck. There’s a gap at the base of the assembly there that I’m going to have to fill with a 2x2 piece of shaped wood, like a decorative trimming. I tried to press the entire assembly down to fill-in the gap but the wood told me to stop or else. So I listened.
 
 
 

ooops on the door way, im sure a couple others things are still needing attention, and when i got back in i found that i had forgotten to put the bracing beams inn thats how strong this build is

I need a new palm sander also.
I have noticed that you have not removed the upper and lower gunport strips from the quarterdeck doorway. Is there any reason for this?
 
The fairing looks good, so the planking should not be a problem for you.

Coming along very nicely Kevin, she looks impressive even at this stage.
 
B.E.

good evening every one
thank you for comments and likes
 
day 13 hull faired
 
the weather here has been pants recently, with snow and rain, so i have been doing some smaller projects on the build, but i will post photos later on in the build as I would  like to keep this log in some sort of order, (never achieved that before)
the deck has been sanded and varnished with a water based varnish @50/50
to day a few days delay the hull went outside to be sanded, brilliant, oh thats getting hot fizzle bang me mouse blew up
anyway an trip to Wickes (other palm sanding tool outlets are available0
this is what i have now
 
 

Hi Joe and welcome to Model Ship World.  I am glad your research sent you to this forum.  You will not be disappointed.  Also, thank you for your service to our country.

Great to see again Alistair, she is a beautiful model and deserves to be finished.
With a view to the coppering finish, I'm off to make friends with the horses across the lane.😉
 
B.E.

Thanks Spyglass & Allan
 
Next update to compress my old log. I was determined to try to copper the hull no matter how the boxwood planking turned out. I marked the waterline using a very expensive kit of an old cardboard tube with a pencil piercing it. 

The coppering went well but the result was far too bright and shiny. The process was tedious but I stuck to the FFM concept of copper planking which more or less follows the hull planking. The bead at the waterline is a thin styrene strip painted black.


Unwilling to wait for the copper to naturally tarnish, I decided to accelerate the process. My wife, an architect, used to work on the design of high end resorts in Indonesia. They used horse urine to quicken the aging of copper roofs. I don't have a horse but I make urine - so why not try? Unpleasant to use but repeated applications over two to three days got me there. The speed of aging takes place within that time but needs careful working by brush on, wipe on and wipe off.  By this point I had also painted the upper works in my interpretation of the blue. For me Humbrol 157 enamel with a touch of added grey. After the aging of the copper the entire hull is sealed with Testors Dullcote. All of this is done by hand with brushes.


Next I tested the quarter badges for the look and started the process of adding the hull rails.

Improvements to the rails included making new coils for the end pieces. I also painted the upper most works in red.
 
Next up (actually I played with this earlier in the build) was the vexed issue of the cannons. The kit supplied ones are pretty awful (an understatement)  and not to scale. I mucked around with alternatives and settled after a while on RB Models barrels set on Syren Models (I think - memory a bit lost here) carriages. The RB Models cannon is pretty much the exact right size and it fits perfectly with the carriages. It was quite an expensive exercise trialing and getting the right bits in place but the cannon is a (the) central part of a warship and getting these wrong would let everything else down.
 
Test One - carriage good - barrel too big.

First test versus kit supplied cannon. Ugh - And my test barrel and carriage are still too big.

the next test put a new barrel (from where I can't remember) in the foreground up against the RB Models barrel in the background. RB wins.

Having settled on the cannon I now need to get them under the forecastle and quarter deck - where they'll never be seen again. The rig is single 2.5 mm block to double 2.5 mm block with 0.25 mm tackle and 0.6 mm breeching rope. I know the single to double block arrangement is wrong for this sized cannon but it is easier to rig and I don't have enough single blocks at 2.5 mm to do the job...
 

Lower capstan, beams, bitts, rear bulkhead and cannons (rope coils to come) installed before tackling the quarter deck installation. I'll leave it there for now.