Ryland Craze

Having cut the moulding on Cheerful for steps I’d just as soon not to do it again if it’s an option. Since no one is climbing them I’d rather go for aesthetics. Also can’t imagine a neat way to have the frieze applied to a step other than I guess a little hand painting. 

The Winnie contemporary model steps only make sense if the molding sits proud of the planking enough to actually be a step. 

Looks like you could run both ways with it. But I agree with you, perhaps the modeler didn’t want to cut a nice run of moulding. And since it’s not actually functional I think aesthetics take priority. Also the molding and the steps seem to have similar profiles.
I checked my drafts for Portland class and it shows the same thing.
 

Just an FYI.....its one of those things....
 
On the Winnie contemporary model the ladder or boarding steps are kind of funky as far as spacing goes.  See below.  There are 5 steps below the molding and one above it.  This does not match the original draft.
 

But it is very typical of contemporary models...here is another that does the same thing.  It would be fine to do it this way.  The molding is supposed to be cut away to make room for a step.   But I imagine the contemporary builder didnt want to break the nice run of the molding perhaps?
 

If you look at the original draft it is very different however as well as our model plans.
 
I wonder why the deviation?  The plans show the molding cut away to facilitate an even distribution of ladder steps.
 
Also note how on the steps follow the sheer on the models but are actually flat on the draft although its hard to tell.  I am not sure which way I will go yet.   But you have some choices.  I dont want to be the guy to randomly pick one for the group yet any will work and be historically correct "of sorts",  based on these contemporary sources.
 
Two drafts for the class....Note that one even has seven steps.  With an extra actually on the wales.  The bottom pic shows how I reconstructed this but its basically dealers choice.   I dont know why the contemporary model builders didnt cut away the molding for the step.  But do you guys have any thoughts on this...or preference.
 



 

Fun with fenders today!!
 

 
Fenders may seem like a small detail but it is very important.  These small pieces can really hurt the appearance of your model if done poorly.  These are laser cut for you just like the channels.  They are done in three layers.  Very thin outside layers is the key.  But one often overlooked detail is the fact that the fenders do taper thinner as the work their way lower on the hull.  That is when viewing them head on.  To add this detail will elevate your model as well as getting the beaded edges made by the layers nice and neat.
 

 
The center layer had the char removed first.  Then I thinned down and tapered them towards the bottom.   Only then did I add the outside layers.   After using some wipe on poly I set them aside.   But now it was time to carefully chisel away the molding on the hull to accept them.  Do this carefully to get nice tight seams.   I glued the fenders in place first on the hull and then added the fries so I could carefully match the pattern as best I could.   Then I painted the top black to match the sheer cap.   
 
I hope you can see the nice beaded edges and the taper.  I will note that I used tissue paper this time to print the friezes.  I wanted it very thin so I could push it into the beaded edge with a dull toothpick.   I used a glue stick for the adhesive.   It will be almost impossible to match the pattern but its more important to just get some neat color on the fenders that match.   
 

 
Any questions or comments.????
 
Now its onto the other side...and then the chesstrees which are done exactly the same.  The chesstrees have a sheave through them however and you will see that soon enough.
 
 

Evening, 
I think an update is in order.
Admittedly, we have moved quite a way forward. All the standing rigging is attached and hanging from the masts.
I had to upgrade my phone, it was an old iPhone 5 and was really showing its age and having problems with it. 
I have since gotten an iPhone 13 and have restarted taking a lot of pics. 
 
Anywho.....
 
The Topgallant and Topmast shrouds are all in place and rigged in. 
Since I was moving up the masts installing the standing rigging and such. 
I'm just going to work my way down the masts installing yards.
 
I started with the Royal yards. 

All the standing rigging is in there.
I've been able to keep it from getting tangled up, for the most part, but nothing too bad. 

Weaving the Royal yard onto the mast, I'm always mindful of its surrounding ropes.
I'm cheating a bit and anchoring the yards onto the masts with some thin wire for stability and grip.

Dressed with appropriate blocks.
The fore and main royal yards are being done at the same time. 

I don't have my notes directly in front of me, but if I remember, I used .008 Syren tan rope for the halliard.
Fed thru sheaves built into the masts and will anchor at the sheerpole on the Topmast.
There is a fixed lift of the same size that I can install a bit later.  
Again, harder in my head than in reality. 

The Topgallant yards are being prepped and will be next.
 
Be good
 
Tom E 
 
 
 

Hi Cisco, 
 
I appreciate the kind words, thank you!
As towards a stand. Honestly, since I started building Niagara it was in my mind, but I never put any serious thought to it. 
Never really thought I would get this far. 
 
I did come up with the pic below, a few months back.  
If I remember correctly, the wood is just a slab from Michaels and brass pedestals from Model Expo. 
I have no kids, cats or dogs, so I'm not entirely worried about it getting chewed up while at work. 
I do want a case around it to protect from dust and the like, that I'm sure of. 
But I haven't even wrapped my head around that one yet!!!!

 
Tom E 
 
 

Thanks Marcus for sharing your build with us.  Each ship model you build is a learning experience and your skills will improve with each model built.  I am sure that you can see where you could improve your planking process. I would not give up on this model.  Completing it will increase your knowledge base and help you build better models in the future.  Good luck on this build and do not hesitate to ask questions on this forum if you need help.  We are here to help and support you in your modeling efforts.
 

Post One Hundred and Ten
 
Foc’sle Breast rail
More tiny little pieces to assemble and fit.
It’s these small fittings that soak up a lot of time, I have been fiddling with these for two days.

6518
Made more difficult by my deck modifications resulting in the need to tweak the support knees so that they sit on the carlings whilst retaining the above deck height.

6527
As with the Bitts the belay pin holes have been filled in.

6524(2)

6520

6528
The support knees for the Belfry are added.
Constant soft brushing is now required to keep the dust down, must try and find a small nozzle cleaner to get between the beams.
 
In the next post I return to the Cathead.
 
B.E.
16/04/22

On with the build logs, then. My first problem was fixing the bulwarks. This wasn't quite so easy as I had expected. I realised I needed to sand the deck edges a bit more and although the photos in the instruction manual don't show any pins to hold things in place, in the Instructional videos they supply on YouTube, there are pins in place. So as things weren't as easy as I had hoped with this, I elected to use the pin method.
 

Hello Marcus, and welcome to MSW!
 
Currently I'm building the same kit but I'm a little bit further than you. I just finished reading your log and noticed one mistake on the very last photo. You didn't have to cut the extra deck planks, which are above the holes for the ribs. The idea is to hide the ribs with the deck. Actually I can't suggest you approach for fix, maybe someone with more practice will know. Next time just read the instructions more carefully. 🙂

Hi Marcus      don't get too disheartened with your model    you've  learned a lot so far   , planking is probably the hardest part for a beginner to atempt  we all had to go through this at the start   and as with  everything in  life some people are better than others at certain things   ,you're next model will be better    .my first model  was billing boats VASA    Waaaay to much for me,    got binned   never went near models again for around twenty years    then restarted  but with something smaller and a bit easier     and carried on from there    so don't worry it will all work  out in the end      stick it out                      cheers    sticker

Assembled. 

Hello Arthur, and a warm welcome to the forum from another denizen of the Southern Hemisphere.
 
John

Arthur, welcome to MSW. Very nice wildlife photography. I'll follow you along on your Bluenose build. 

Hi Arthur and welcome to Model Ship World.  A lot of our members are into photography and it helps when you put pictures in your build log.  Good luck on your Bluenose.

Hi Arthur and welcome to Model Ship World.  A lot of our members are into photography and it helps when you put pictures in your build log.  Good luck on your Bluenose.

Here's the jib sail pattern being test fitted.
 

 
And it gets the same treatment as the staysail did.

 
 

The sheet on the right is liberally sprayed with flat clear lacquer, which doesn't shrink it.

 
Then the second piece is laid over it, and wiped with a finger to remove any air bubbles.

 
 

Starting to do the sails. First step is to tape the sail pattern down, then tape silkspan over it.
 

Next step is to trace the lines onto the silkspan, then cut another piece with the grain at 90 degrees to the first piece.

As it so happened, we were of want for things to do with most places closed for Good Friday... So my partner and I made a day trip to Ballarat.
 
This is somewhere I've always wanted to visit since learning about the gold rush in primary school!
 
It made for a lovely day trip! Thanks for the suggestion @Louie da fly ✌️
 
Some pics from Sovereign Hill, the mini gold rush reenactment museum.
 

Next belts on each side of 5 planks completed, onto the final belts of 5.

Yep, cause it had a big huge windshield to watch the movie thru if that is what you wanted to do, and a cavernous back seat in case you didn't....

Nice work Denis
 
I think I would have installed the rear side windows as my mental picture just seems like that is how it should be. A friend of mine had exactly the same car that was a hand-me-down family car from his dad in high school. The stripe on the side and I think the roof were white though if I remember right. We were all jealous because it attracted almost all of the girls in school and drive-in movies were plentiful back then!