Ryland Craze

Finished! Thanks to all who helped me, commented and "liked."
 

 

Started on making masts and could not find the bottom pieces.
 
Quick design and print on the 3d printer solved the issue.
 

Rigging done on foremast and anchors placed.
 

Here ist the plate I did purchase from the company Sauter. They deliver wooden boards to be inserted into the Bosch table saw GTS 10XC. The version that I did purchase is the most expensive one because I did want it to show the same color as the table saw shows on its desk. The grey frame you can see placed within the opening of the board is made of aluminum and it is there so that the aluminium plate that will cover this opening can be made 100% aligned with the desk surface. This alignment and calibration word is key to enable me to get perfect results when using either the saw or the router.
 

 
here you see my table saw with the board inserted into the desk of the table saw by extending the surface of the saw to the right. Another detail I want to highlight is the element of the table saw that is with a white board replacing the aluminum red colored board with which the saw was delivered. This table element is rigid and mounted on the structure of the saw without it ever changing its alignment. This element is the reference to which all other elements of the table are aligned with. The wooden board that has been inserted into the surface of the saw is aligned together with the right most element when fixing the screws of the right most element. So as you see the table on this foto it is perfectly aligned to the right of the longitudinal support of the saw.
 

 
Here the link to the page where this aluminum plate could be purchased with more details of it. The version I have purchased is the one prepared to be placed in the opening of the wooden board and it has the perforations so that a TRITON TRA001 coul be mounted to it.
 

Here you can see the aluminum plate inserted and calibrated into the desk of my table saw.
 

 
This is my router TRIOTON TRA001.
 
 

 
Here you see my router hanging from the blue aluminum plate. Not because the pressure the supports that prevent the side with the router table functionality bend down my desk surface due also because the router is pretts heavy, I did build it this way because I did like it.
 

 
This picture shows with an acrylic plate how the router is mounted to the plate, which in my machine is this blue colored aluminum plate. The silver colort insert is to adapt the diameter of the opening for the milling head that will be used. You canalso see the handle, which inserted in one of the holes of the blue aluminum plate.. Turning it you can set the heigth of the milling head above the router table. I plan to use the same kind of digital display so that I can read the heigth of the milling head above the table surface.
 

 
But I did further improve my equipment. I did purchase an upgrade for the longitudinal support of the table saw. This upgrade consists of 2 aluminum profiles that can be moved closer or more distant from each other to make the opening between the as narrow as possible for the milling head that will be used.
 

 
In this picture you can see a silver colored box that is between the original longitudinal support of the table saw and the aluminum profiles of the extension for the router table. To this, at the back of the machine from this perspective, you can connect a flexible tube from the dust and chip suctioning system. Also the milling process of the router generates a lot of dust and chips. Having an opening exactly behind the opening for the milling head of the router dust and chips can be absorbed where it is generated. But this also shows you that connecting this combined circular table saw and the router table requires the suctioning system to have at least 3 ends connected to the machine.
 

 
Working with the circular table saw or with the router has taken the fingers of many operators when they were not concentrated enough on what they were doing. Even my families requires me to spend as much effort as possible to prevent me from getting hurt. Again, the videos on YouTube are an excellent source for information. Even more by studying all the material about safety when operating this machines I even learned to understand for what was the acrylic transparent part mounted across the 2 aluminum plates. This element has a surface that will be placed so close to the object being milled, that if the operators fingers slip, they will nit slip and get in touch with the milling head.
 
The other issue I did learn was related to the width to which the 2 plates are away from each other. As the work piece has to always be moved from the right to the left, if the opening is too wide the milling head can draw the work piece into the opening, as the milling head always moves counter clock wise.
 

Here the Link to this feather board from Bow I did purchase from Dictum.
 
 

 
As you can see in this foto of the router table side of my machine I have mounted the feather shown on the pevious picture to the lateral support upgrade for the table router. The feather on the right pressures the work piece to the support and the feather mounted on the left presses it onto the table surface. By the way the feather on the left I did install in the wrong direction. So while the feathers keep the work piece presed into the trayectory desired it also has a safety aspect. Work pieces can kick back and hurt the operator. Having the 2 feathers mounted on the right side they also make it impossible for the work piece to kick back and also that the work piece is drawn into the opening of the support by the milling head. I did like this so much that I did purchase an aluminum plate like the ones used in the extension of the lateral support on the router side, but 80cm long to upgrade my lateral support on the table saw side so that there also the feathers could add to my security.
 


 
This 2 grips do help additionally to keep my hands away from the blade of the table saw and the milling head of the router table The tool shown on the second picture explains itself. The one on the first picture is of use when you want to cut with the blade of your table saw a board on its narrow side, same applies to the router table. A victim board is used to move a board on his narrow side and keep it perpendicular to the direction that is being worked on.
 
Having learned so much about calibrating and aligning parts of the table saw by watching the videos on the Youtube Channel of Nachdenksport and having purchased quite a few of the products that he develop and demonstrated in his videos on one side and having a very good friend of mine print me 3D printed parts for my dust and chips collection system for my workshop, I was finally convinced that 3D printing would be very usefull for me. Not just while working on improving my workshop, but also for my sailboat model, the Carina. Thanks to the "Black Friday promotions" I could purchase the Creality Ender 5 Plus 3D printer for 50% of the price I have seen it recently offered.
 
3D printing is a science of his own right and I will present to you my printer, the cabinet I am building for it and write a couple of things related to the 3D printing. A challengue for placing my 3D printer in my workshop is the air polution due to dust and chips resulting from using other equipment in my workshop. My wife has place a strict veto onme to expand my workshop into other rooms in our house.

A lot of time has passed since the last time I did update my thread about my workshop. Health problems are slowing down my progress, saving money to be able to buy what I was tempted to buy and finally waiting for promotions like "Black Friday" added to it.
 
Listening to videos in YouTube, reading material related to topics I found to be interesting for me in those YouTube Videos and finally reflecting about those potential purchases and their integration into my workshop.
 
So the first piece of equipment I chose to buy after comparing possible alternatives was a circular Table saw. I decided to go for the Bosch Professional GTS 10 XC:
 

 
The key criteria that make me decide to buy this circular table saw were:
 
1. The precision of the longitudinal support. Many of those tend to result in having a different distance to the circular blade. The one of this machine corrects its position thanks to the way the fix on the back side of the support works. It get the support to be parallel to the blade.
2. In a German YouTube Channel called "Nachdenksport" the person running it intensively studies aspects of how to optimize the aligning of the table elements. He offers numerous stuff 3D printed that make possible perfect behavior and alignment.
3. The table of this circular table saw can be expanded to include a router table. Numerous expansion options get me as a result a piece of equipment that combines a table saw and a router table.
 
Equally relevant becomes the issue of absorbing the dust and chips originating in the use of this equipment
 

 
I am designing a system for my workshop, where the dust and chips from ideally any machine I use in my workshop dust and chips will be collected. This graphic shows the principle of such a system using a cyclone to separate dust and chips from the airflow that is being collected from any machine that will benefit from such a system. The polluted air with dust and chips flies into the cyclone horizontally and will spiral in the cyclone. The polluted content of the airflow will fall down in the cyclone and drop into the barrel. The air, now much cleaner will be collected vertically from the vacuum cleaner. The benefit is that a very little amount of the dust will be collected by the air filter and the dust that gets into the bag filter is going to be minimal. This the filters in the vacuum cleaner will remain empty and the suction capability of the vacuum filter will not be reduced.
 

 
You might guess the shock I had when the barrel I did purchased arrived. Knowing from reading in forums and seeing videos in Youtube, the barrel can implode due to the reduced air pressure within the barrel used. To prevent this from happening to me I ordered a metal barrel and I did chose one that had 210 liters of capacity.
 

 
Well, assuming I do live for another 2 decades that barrel will never be filled!
 

 
This is the industrial vacuum cleaner I did purchase.
 

 
Here the box with my circular table saw finally did arrive. I used the "Black Friday" promotions and got the saw for 50% of the price it was offered at Amazon a month ago.
 

 
When with a lot of effort I was able to put the box on the surface of what I call my old workbench and this was what I saw first opening it.
 

 
Here my circular table saw placed as desired on the old workbench. As you can see in this foto the desk surface consists od a good number of elements which all have to be aligned properly. The hole in the surface is were the red piece of aluminum shown on the last foto is placed and the blade will be visible there.
 

 
I also did purchase a second blade for my saw. Studying videos on Youtube I started to learn about how to use such a saw, what are the sources of danger in such a saw and how to eliminate this risks as much as possible. But I also did learn about what it means when the saw does its job along the direction of the wood fiber or across. That the distance between the teeth of a blade has to take into account the length of the chips that happen while the blade does its job. So the number of teeth of the blade that came with the saw was 24 while the second I did purchase had 64 teeth. The first blade is good when the chips are long and the one with more teeth when cutting across or when the material being sawn did not generated long chips. The groove you can see on the blade with the many teeth is to eliminate or reduce the vibration while cutting.
 

 
In a video on Youtube I took this image. It shows the desk of the table saw to be expanded and achieving this way to get a router table functionality added to my circular table saw. But I also got a view of how a wooden cabinet on wheels could look like that also included supports to prevent the table on the side of the router could bend itself down due to the weigth of the router. I decided to make it, or at least similar.
 

 
Here my cabinet while in construction. You can see the big openning on the top left of this cabinet. While the circular table saw cuts a lot of chips and dust is not collected by the dust and chips suction port of the saw, but drops to the bottom inside the table saw.
 
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In this foto you can see my circular table saw from below. The grid that you can see is how the table saw allows chips and dust to drop out of the body of the saw.
 

 
 
Here the same view, but now without the grid. The shape of its opening is the shape of the opening you see on the wooden top side of the cabinet. Additionally you can see the black box on the left side of the opening, this is the motor and the aluminum case to its right is where the blade is, On a Youtube video on the channel "Nachdenksport", sadly only in German, a digital sensor is added to be able to display how much the blade will show above the surface of the table saw.
 

 
 

 
Here you see my circular table saw mounted on the cabinet in construction so that its opening at the bottom matches the opening in the cabinet.
 
 

Wonderful.....yes you will have to flip and resave those images...
 
You did a great job on the cheeks and head.  That looks great.   So much better than any kit project on the market.
 

Thanks.  No build log yet, not felt brave enough or made progress that regularly.  Started a few years ago and it sat on a shelf when the planking got a bit tricky..😂. I have spent a bit more time recently and finished the planking and then moved on to some other bits.  I think we are pretty much at the same stage now....
 
If I worked out how to post them there are a couple of pics below.  Will be following your progress with interest.

Great lithographs by the way....👍
 
Mick.
 

Thanks Mick, I hope you start a build log (did I miss it?) and/or share some pics of your Granado!  I was pretty hesitant to start documenting, but so far it has definitely been worth it for getting some helpful commentary and moral support.  
 
Here is a picture of the nearly finished bullwark dry-fitted in place....

 
We managed to join the Noble Maritime Museum and got a discount on 2 more lithographs to join our one hanging in the hallway.  The one below is "Schooners running for cover behind Cape Henry"
 

 
 
The one below is "Wild Calm"

 
 
And the one below is Dying in the English Kills....

 
Finally, here  are two ship-building kits that my wife likes to complete.
 

 

Indeed taking your time and sanding carefully is the trick.  Rushing will never produce a tight fit with those pieces.   But regardless your capstan looks really good.  Use of machines to sand and prep those parts is definitely overkill.  Just take your time and try to not let impatience take hold of you.   Just a light sanding by hand to remove the char with a sanding stick will ensure no over-sanding.  
 
Chuck

I want to say at this point that the key to success with this kit would be to take a lot more time than I did, to carefully finish the pieces, and check fit before gluing.
They are so small,  just a little heavy handedness with the sanding will throw everything way off.  Chuck has included at least one extra of the whelps and chocks, so a little fo rgiveness is included in the kit.
 

 
I did a little rough finishing on my unimat,  My final sanding was with some stuff that I'm not sure what the grit is.
 
At least a thousand..  It produced a nice polished look that I think looks pretty good.
 
  
 
Here is the new head piece that I fabricated with my laser. ( the old one on the right)  The holes are all proper now..
 

 
Here is the finished upper Capstan on the deck of my ship.
 

 
A close up.  The finish is some very thin poly.  I really like the look of the cherry for my purposes.
 
My workmanship does not do the kit justice, so I really look forward to see what some of the Winchelsea builders accomplish with this kit.
If one follows the instructions precisely, you can't go wrong.
 
I will be putting together the AYC version soon, but  taking a lot more time and refining what I have learned with this quick build.

For the upper capstan, which is the part I plan on using, I made a jig to get a more even surface to fix the whelps.
I just take a couple of strokes on the sand paper on each surface that will be visible after whelps and chocks are in place..
 

 
For the upper capstan I made a jig to help me hold the whelps in alignment while I glued them up with the chocks.
 

 

 
This time I drilled the holes for the simulated bolts in the chocks before going forward with the assembly.
 

 
 
Here the lower chocks are glued in, with finishing to follow.
 

 
Here are some of the parts for the upper drum.
 

 
I thought I was on a roll ( yes a drum roll ), but I did this before I had the discussion above with Chuck, about how those holes should line up..
 

 
Here is the condemned effort before I realized my mistake and proceeded to  rip it apart.
To be continued..
 
 
 
 

This is where I am after 15 mos. My goal is to finish in 2 more years assuming I can keep my cancer in remission. I've built Pipe Lines, Bridges, Tunnels etc. This brings as much enjoyment as the other accomplishments.

I see I am not the only one who makes the unforgivable mistake of using the Byrnes saw as a building surface. But it is the only perfectly flat surface in my workshop so allowances must be made. Beautiful work N.I.!

I wasn't sure whether to put a build log on here as this is my first POF build and I'm not sure how it will go.  I keep on asking random questions about issues that I've had, and to me it would be better to put them all in one place.  So I've taken the plunge and I'll give it a go.
 
I'm building Le Rochefort using the Ancre Monogragh which in itself is a lovely piece of work.  I'm also using the book by Adrian Sorolla called Model Shipbuilding Dockyard Style.
 
So why Le Rochefort and also at 1/24th scale?  I chose this ship after having communicated with a few people on this forum as to what a good first ship would be.  I didn't want to start something that I would loose interest in due to my lack of skills and experience.  I only ever build one ship at a time and my last two boats have been POB builds at about the same size as the 1/24th scale version.  So building in this size will feel familiar to me and let's be honest we all like a big ship!
 
Time is one of my biggest issues as I'm a truck driver and my job takes me away from home all week, so I only get to work on it at the weekend which also has to fit in family time.  So thats an introduction of me and why I'm building this lovely ship so I believe its the right thing to put a bit of history on here too.
 
Le Rochefort 1787
 
This is the third ship of this name and was built in Rochefort France in 1787 on the plans of Hubert Penevert.  It was classed as a yacht and was designed to navigate the shallow waters of the Charente.  Its job was to carry powder from the safe port of Rochefort to the larger fighting ships that could not sail the Charente and as such had to wait in deeper water in the estuary.  Its design was very detailed such as specific instructions on how the hold must be fully planked and caulked and a floor above the keelson.  This details were all about keeping the powder dry.  One funny reference is to the ships kitchen and how it says that it may not be used with powder on board.
 
So I hope all of the above makes sense as I'm certain that I will need to ask many questions.  The good news is my kit has arrived in the form of Castello planks
 
Mark

That’s one, only 11 more, or 44 more blocks, 44 more hooks, 24 rope coils, and 66 seizings. The breech ropes are done though. 


 
Fun stuff😁

Well Ladies and Gents, I’m calling this puppy done! Waiting on 2 gangway ladders and one anchor to dry and install then the plexiglass case goes on top. I really do appreciate all the likes and comments. They kept me motivated when down. I can’t name all the build logs I took ideas and inspiration from but I thank you all for them. 
 
Not sure what’s next. There are some leatherwork and woodwork projects that are calling me so it will be a while before I start something new. Besides, the weather here is good and the fish are biting! It’s time to dust off the fly rod. 
 
thanks again for all the help,
Mark
 

 

 

Looks like a beautiful start! And that's a very nice workshop.
 
If I may make a suggestion, please consider renaming this to follow MSW's naming conventions for build logs (see this link). It will help people find and recognize the work you're doing. You can do this by clicking the three little dots at the upper right of your initial post, then selecting Edit. That will give you an option to change the title of the thread.
 

I'm not sure how much appetite there is for another Drakkar, but here goes.  I chose this model because I thought it would be a manageable first ship build, and I've long been interested in Viking history and lore.  
 
I do plan some modifications.  Looking at the Oseberg Ship and other surviving examples, the rib spacing appears to be too wide, so II'll be adding ribs above deck to make the spacing look more historically correct.  I also plan to make some changes to the rigging.  The cleats riveted to the hull planking, to my eye at least, aren't mechanically sound, and don't appear historic.  I'll most likely go with attachment similar to that used on Draken Harald Harfagre reconstruction with shroud pins for the standing rigging.  I'm sure there will be other small mods, but perhaps a bit controversial will be replacing the dragon figurehead. The included figurehead looks a bit cartoon-like for my tastes, so I'm thinking of carving something up based upon a Viking era dragon head pin.

This is my first scratch build so will be quite a learning curve. Having been involved with model planes, cars and boat for many years it has been a very long time since I last built anything, let alone  a scratch build of this size, because of this I built a Billing Andrea Gail in 1:60 scale as a refresher first. I have actually had a set of plans for this vessel for the last 20 years but life somehow got in the way slightly. 
 
Harbour Defence Motor Launch (HDML) 1387 was built in 1943 by R.A Newman & Sons of Poole, Dorset in the United Kingdom one of 486 built during the years of WW2. She left Portland Harbour at 05:00hrs on June 5th 1944 and was one of the first vessels off Omaha Beach acting as a navigational leader to the assault forces. Later in the war she had her armaments removed and was redesignated a Fast Dispatch Boat. After the the war she acted as as a Survey Motor Launch before being offered up for sale by the MOD in 1968. This is where my uncle bought her along with some friends with a complete refit starting in 1972 and taking 14 years to restore her to operational condition. She is now under the care of the HMS Gannet Society and on the Historic Ship Register.
 
My build will be starting with a vacuum formed hull from Sarik Hobbies, using 2 different plans. The first being the David Metcalf drawings matched to the hull but also using a copy of the original as built drawing from R.A Newman & Sons given to me by my uncle. Along the way I will be also using the Hmsmedusa.org.uk site as a reference as there are a lot of pictures during the restoration of Medusa, as most of these vessels had subtle differences depending on which ship yard built them.
 
The first picture shows the hull as delivered.
 
 
After making templates all 11 bulkheads were cut from 6mm birch plywood and finished to final size with a great little disc sander purchased from a certain German Super Market chain. For what it cost this machine has been an absolute god send and provides a really good result.
 
Just to make life easier with locating everything inside the hull I made a keel from 1.5mm ply which slots into the moulding.
 

 
This shows 1 - 4 dry fitted into the hull with the first of the deck stringers cut and fitted. You will notice that for the time being I have left the flash from the vacuum forming in place as this retains a bit of stability in the hull until I am ready to trim back to deck level.
 
 
 
Kris
 


 

 
 
 

Thanks to all the 'Likes'.
 
This week, I put the planking between the wales and the first layer of the molding.
For this I used the method described by Chuck and proceeded to shape the planks using a small travel iron and a hair dryer.
I have to say that this method works pretty well and makes it easier to get the planks in place.

 
I found that the second strake, the one that fills the space, was still difficult because the width of the planks must be really precise.

 

 
The next strake should be easier as it will consist of a constant 5/32" width, although here it will be the length that needs to be precise to leave a 1/64" gap around each gun port.
 

So made some progress yesterday. The planking of the deck was actually kind nice and a fun little thing to do. And I had to soak the main piece holding the ribs and dry it out straight because it was about a cm bent so I wanted to start off right. 

Thanks, WalrusGuy! I’ve been reading through your build log as a 2nd set of instructions, and your Syren is looking amazing! For this next step I had the same eraser to space the gunport framing and it worked great, appreciate you sharing that tip.

 
I was having a tough time sanding the inside of the gunport sills without hitting the bulkheads, so I switched over to the 1/4” chisel to make better progress. 

 
Here’s where the sanding block started digging. Once I switched to the chisel I really enjoyed shaping the frames. 

 
I marked out guidelines for the chisel and carved the inside and outside. Then I used a file to work towards a smoother line before sanding. 

 

 
Next I’ll sand down the outside with a block before starting the vertical frames. 

Progress Made + A Question:  
 
Question:  In the paper plans that came with the kit, the placement of the plates is indicated.  I have taken the 2 halves and taped them together for a good starboard view.  I see some stealers in the rows, and am wondering if that is just a depiction of row on the hull as it flattens, or are they needed?  I had no problem on the planking, but am not sure how to cut/install for the copper.  I will be checking threads, but am wondering if they are critical and do I just eyeball them?   OOPS....I guess that is really 2 questions.🙃
 
And...pics of my progress:
 
 

1-15-21
Between the first and second belts, I practiced bending planks laterally instead of cutting them to shape. I like this method. As long as the upper edge of the lower planks have been smoothed, the lower edge of the next plank above can snug up nicely with very little pressure. Notwithstanding, there is a limit of how much a plank can be bent laterally.
 
For my electronics hobby, I use a temperature controlled heat gun typically used for soldering surface mount devices. A temporary jig was made to do bending tests of bass, box and AYC in the lateral direction. Side stiffeners were a must to prevent warping. The jig worked well enough to make version 1.1 for the next project.

 
This is just a simple bending test of DRY 3/64" x 15/64" x 6" bass vs AYC vs box in the above jig.

The dry bass and AYC bend about the same while the box is is less bendable.
The same pieces were bent again after a 5 minute soak in room temperature water.

All three pieces increased their bend when using water. Especially the bass.
 
Using heat bent bass with light clamping. For minor bending, just finger pressure is needed.

 
Mike

... 1-11-21
 
The first belt is finished. The method i have used up now is the same that Toni used in his project. i.e. apply masking tape to the frames, mark the tape, apply the tape to the wood and cut out the plank a little large. Then, trim to finish. (Toni's Post #31). This method worked fine for me from stem to stern on belt one where the final quality of the fit became a matter of time (and wood) spent.

 

 
It's hard to see in this shot but gaps are showing at G & Ga in spite a Ga already having a shim.

 
... 01-14-21
I've yet to develop a good eye for fairing the tricky frames. 🧐

Note the last plank in this belt straddles the stern and counter.
 
Mike