HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 Scale - POF

[Richard Feliciano]

Being dissatisfied with the bow framing of frames 2 thru 12, these frames were completely reconstructed using my forecastle template previously submitted in the forum. The results were satisfactory as these photos show. I also prefabricated timber heads which procedure will be posted in a day or two.

 

This exercise set me back almost 2 months. I would like to mention 3 of the frames needed build out at various locations. I laminated 1.5" (s) strips to the frames at these low locations. Results were fine.

[mtaylor]

Richard, since your revising and really starting over, it would probably be best to just merge this with your other build topic on this model. Many of do have "restarts" and just continue the build log as it gives a better overall read of what worked and what didn't work.  

 

Let me know and I'll merge them for you.

[Richard Feliciano]

I am clueless as to how to merge topics or to post a new topic in my build log. Any help is appreciated.

[ccoyle]

Merging of topics needs to be done by a moderator. Adding to an existing log is done simply by using the reply window after the most recent post, just as you replied in this topic.

[Richard Feliciano]

Deciding to fabricate Timberheads after grading the frames to their final elevations, the following process was used. A tongue and groove assembly will be used on to the frames.

1. Cut 5 X 8 (s) to lengths approximately 1 to 1.25" in length so that the pieces could be handled by hand when sanding.

2. Construct a jig for the milling machine that would bevel the 5 X 8 pieces at approx 11.5 degrees. Mill the required bevels as shown in the photos below.

3. Sand the edges by hand

4. Mill the tongues at the base of the timberheads. Cut off the timber heads leaving a tongue of about 1/8"

5. File a notch in the frame to which the timberheads will be attached so that the timber head fits neatly on to the frame

[Richard Feliciano]

Additional photos showing completed and installed timberhead sections

[Richard Feliciano]

I came up with this scheme to hold the Side Counter Timbers into proper position while gluing. The falsework constrains the timbers from moving out of p osition

[Richard Feliciano]

Assembling the Knee of the Head was challenging. To aide in the tapering of the Cross Section, I used a card board template cut to the desired bevel at two elevations from the bottom as the photos show.

[Richard Feliciano]

This is where I am after 15 mos. My goal is to finish in 2 more years assuming I can keep my cancer in remission. I've built Pipe Lines, Bridges, Tunnels etc. This brings as much enjoyment as the other accomplishments.

[Shotlocker]

Richard,

Looks like a great (lengthy!) start with the most difficult assemblies done. What ship is it?

 

Cheers,

Gary

[druxey]

That's one way of doing it!

[Cathead]

Looks like a beautiful start! And that's a very nice workshop.

 

If I may make a suggestion, please consider renaming this to follow MSW's naming conventions for build logs (see this link). It will help people find and recognize the work you're doing. You can do this by clicking the three little dots at the upper right of your initial post, then selecting Edit. That will give you an option to change the title of the thread.

 

[Jim Lad]

Very neat work and a great start, Richard.  As gary said, you've got the most difficult part of the framing done.

 

John

[tlevine]

Looks great!  I cannot tell from the pictures but if you have not faired the inside of the frames, now would be the time to do it while access is still easy.

[druxey]

Looking good, Richard. Toni's advice is sound if you haven't faired inside yet.

[Cathead]

My apologies, when I commented this was a separate thread and I did not realize it was a continuation of another thread (which has now been combined, making my comment look bizarre). Please disregard. I still look forward to following your future work!

[Richard Feliciano]

The model is HMS Fly. The interior of the frames have been faired. Now on to the square frames. 

[druxey]

Excellent, Richard. Looking forward to seeing your hull grow.

[Richard Feliciano]

It's been a challenge to get started on the square frames. One of the issues one needs to consider is the layout of frames 14 Aft and Forward. The patterns given by Admiralty Group are for the forward faces of the frames. The rear faces are entirely different because of the slope of the deadwood. In addition, the actual disposition of your deadwood slope is not the same as mine due to construction variations of each modeler. I mentioned this to Greg Herbert who stated he had a similar problem. 

After constructing 14 Aft, the resulting frame was to narrow in width. 

My approach to resolving this issue:

1. Make a fairly accurate drawing of my deadwood using a carpenter's moulding template.

2. Draw building board line on this drawing using drafting dividers. I find my old K & E dividers to be more accurate than calipers for this purpose since they can fit into tight spaces.

3. Lay out the proposed frames (14 down to 12) on this drawing. Use this drawing to determine the bevels needed on the base of the frames.

[Richard Feliciano]

After fabricating frame 14 Aft, the resulting frame was too narrow to conform to the existing inside framing. To correct the problem a thin (2" S) strip was laminated to the interior of the frame with satisfactory results. The inside of the frame will never be seen. 

A bending heating iron created the needed curvature. The ends were tapered to zero thickness.

[druxey]

I'm trying to understand what went amiss here. Was the last cant frame a little high or the the first square frame a bit low to cause the disparity? Another possibility is that the inner surfaces of the cant frames needed more fairing. The way to determine this is to check the thickness of the last cant at various points and compare with the thickness of the dead flat pattern at her same points along the frame.

[Richard Feliciano]

As previously stated, I believe that the 14 Aft pattern is too narrow due to the significant slope of the deadwood at it's location. The pattern is satisfactory on the forward face but the back face is much higher thus requiring a wider overall cut out to achieve the interior and exterior surface. 

I made adjustments on 13 Aft by cutting the pattern fuller (~2" S) on the inside and outside.

 

You can see the interior of the stern has been faired.

 

I agree that there may be some alignment issues on the last cant frame, but looking down keel axis the alignment of the frames looks good to me.

 

After I raise the 12 & 11 frames, I will post a photo.

 

[druxey]

Thanks for the response, Richard.

[Richard Feliciano]

The Square Frame patterns for 13 & 14 Patterns do not take into account the rising slope of the deadwood for the tops of the frames (see photo below). The frames are higher moving from 13 F to 14A. I wanted to check spread of the frames at the top of the patterns for the temporary cross spall. Using the information that I had previously drawn and the Plan Section for HMS Fly, I plotted the Tangent Offset for the frames in question. I then plotted the design heights for the top of timbers on the pattern drawings. Fortunately the Tangent Offset on the pattern drawings checked exactly with the Tangent Offset. 

The main point is Frames 13 thru 14 need to be cut down to design height.  (As previously stated, the 36 timberheads will be fabricated separately and  attached to the frames later.

 

[druxey]

If you look at the frame pattern, you will see the slot for the deadwood. There are two lines across the top of the slot. The solid line is the fore edge of the frane pair and the dashed line indicates the bevel to allow the frame to sit at the correct height. Does that solve your problem?

[Richard Feliciano]

The point that I was trying to make is the patterns for 13 and 14 are too tall. I was also concerned that the temporary cross spalls would be of the wrong dimension but that dimension checked out o.k..

[Richard Feliciano]

Struggling with the square frames and port hole construction. Not very satisfied with the results. The following shows steps taken to create port holes. I find try as I might, I need to resort to miniscule shims to get any sense of proper proportions.  My notching  skills require 45 degree notches to get any sense of looking right. The 60/120 degree notching too difficult for me.

[druxey]

I see you are using a watchmaker's slotting file, Richard. A great tool to have but, may I suggest, not he best tool for cutting scores. Lay the frame flat, as you have done (after marking out accurately) and, in the case of the upper sill, make a downward vertical cut using a very well sharpened chisel. Turn the frame around and make a series of shallow paring cuts to form the score. For the lower birdsmouth make the first vertical cut across the middle of the score, then pare away at an angle toward the middle from each side. Practice on scrap first to get the technique down.

[Richard Feliciano]

Thanks for your advice. I'm sure most follow your procedure of using a chisel with great results. I'm against your method primarily as a result of my background. My objection response would be too lengthy and wouldn't change anyone else's mind on the procedure to follow.  The slotting file enables me to make a cross grain cut where I want (assuming my measurements are accurate which is a leap of faith).

[dvm27]

I found the cutting of these mortises to be one of the more challenging aspects of the model Richard. I also made my sills slightly oversize and pared them back to better match the mortises after cutting. Trim, fit and repeat until satisfied. What I can tell you is that when you do your final fairing with a dab of white glue in any unwanted gaps they will disappear.