Jump to content

hornet

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    661

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by hornet

  1. hornet
    Google ‘squadron precision glue applicator’ It is specifically designed for applying CA glue. I use it when attaching copper plates. Works very well.
  2. hornet
    I also only use diluted wood glue on rigging. CA glue fumes are also very toxic. Cause flu like symptoms. I only use CA when fixing copper plates. I put puddle on the bottom of an upturned glass jar and use a glue applicator (like a metal hook that holds a drop of CA) purchased from a hobby shop. I only use CA while working outside on a verandah in the open air.
  3. hornet
    I have about 10 proxxon tools. The drill press is one of my favourites. Check their website if you want to see it in action. Excellent quality product.
  4. hornet
    2mm cannon balls can be obtained on eBay. Type in 2mm steel ball bearings. I was able to blacken mine but you could paint with dull (metal) black from Admiralty Paints.
  5. hornet
    Ripping to 1mm and soaking, heating then bending should work. Maybe you could also score the rear of the planks at close intervals with a No 11 blade before attempting to bend. This has worked for me in the past.
  6. hornet
    I have found mahogany to be very brittle at the best of times. I’m not sure that soaking it for an extended period will make much difference. I suggest you rip it down to 0.5 mm and use it as a veneer over limewood or something similar.
  7. hornet
    I forgot to say, don’t leave items in the solution for too long, I have found that the blackening tends to come off if you do. I don’t know why. Rinse in fresh water and leave to dry on absorbent paper. Soak again if necessary. Some people dilute the solution and get good results, I usually use it undiluted. Experiment and see what works for you. I have collected the medicine cups that come with cough mixture and use them for this job, as well as to mix and dilute paint. Always use tweezers to pick up your copper/brass items so as not to get the oil from your fingers on them.This will affect the quality of the blackening. Cheers Steve
  8. hornet
    John I’ve never found a situation where there was enough pressure on the ring to open it. So, for me, silver solder in this situation is unnecessary.
  9. hornet
    Hi dgreen. If you haven’t read the tutorial from this forum on planking, I suggest you do.There are a few good ideas there. I use a ‘plank bender’ after soaking planks for 15 - 20 minutes in warm water. You can also use your hobby knife to cut slightly into the rear of the planks at close intervals (about 1mm apart) This makes bending without breaking easier and is not visible from the front. It is still best to soak the planks and use a plank bender as well. I pin the damp, planks to the frames and filler blocks until they dry (overnight) and they usually retain their bend. Never try to glue down damp planks as they tend to shrink when dried and gaps between planks result. Hope this helps Steve http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Plank_Bending.pdf
  10. hornet
    Yes, blackening solution will work on silver solder. You may have to apply more than once to get s good coverage. Just wondering why you need to silver solder your eye lots though? Seems like a bit of overkill to me
  11. hornet
    Might I suggest when you use the blackening solution, you treat the wire BEFORE you make the eye bolts. Run the wire through some very fine emery paper then soak in white vinegar to remove any grease, such as the natural oil on your fingers, then follow the instructions on the blackening solution bottle to blacken your wire. Steve
  12. hornet
    Have used this for years. Available on eBay. Can be reused over and over.
  13. hornet
    Try Admiralty Acrylic Paints sold by Cornwall Model Boats. They make a yellow ochre which may be what you are looking for.
  14. hornet
    Yes, you will get some overspray. I solved the problem bu purchasing a small, portable spray booth from eBay. Cost around $100 au. As long as you vent it to the outside via the supplied flexible hose, you can spray inside to your hearts content. The booth folds up into a small ‘suitcase’ for easy storage.
  15. hornet
    Adding to what Amateur has explained, the shrouds were also wrapped or ‘served’ in a smaller diameter tarred rope where they looped around the mast and for some distance below the cross tree. The forward shroud was actually served for its entire length. This was done to prevent wearing or chafing of the shrouds against each other or against other components of the rigging. You can buy a serving machine from the Syren Model Ship Company (manually operated) or from Domanoff Workshop (motorised) both are listed in the SPONSORS tabs on the right of the MSW Home page. I have the Domanoff version which works well. For this aspect of rigging and many others that are often not well explained in model ship instructions, I can thoroughly recommend the book Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson. It has many great illustrations and I refer to it constantly. See below the rather dusty pic of ‘served’ shrouds from one of my models. Cheers Steve
  16. hornet
    Having built a number of models myself, I know that every mistake I make, and don’t fix or replace, stand out to me (even though nobody else would notice). For that reason, if it were my model, I would sand and strip the affected area back and redo it. Put it down to experience and since you have not planked a Hull before, take advantage of the chance to practise and develop your planking skills. Take Druxey’s advice and always test your stain on a piece of the SAME timber next time. This way when you finally finish you will be much happier with your model than you would be if it is compromised by such a large boo boo.
  17. hornet
    Admiralty acrylic paints (see caldercraft website) are excellent quality, accurate colours and thinned with water to the consistency of milk. Have used them for a few years and am very impressed. Steve.
  18. hornet
    Hi Wefack May be a simple machine to someone with an engineering background, but to us mere mortals, building one that actually works is quite a challenge:)
  19. hornet
    I have posted this before. Maybe it will give you some ideas to build your own. Steve
  20. hornet
    I have both. The scroll saw gets a lot more work when modelling. If you get a band saw, make sure it is a decent size. I'm my opinion the smaller ones are pretty useless.
  21. hornet
    The belaying pins provided with my Caldercraft Bounty also looked more like bowling pins. I remedied this by reducing the diameter of the top section by about 50% using sandpaper and my proxxon lathe.
  22. hornet
    Great result Graham, certainly a lot better than you would have got with flat black paint. cheers Steve
  23. hornet
    Great Graham. A couple of tips when using Birchwood Casey. Make sure your cannon are free of any contaminates such as grease ( from your fingers) by soaking them in white vinegar then drying with a tissue ( without touching them with your fingers) Don't soak them in the Birchwood Casey for too long - about 30 seconds. Remove, wipe with a tissue ( some of the blackening will come off) and resoak. Continue doing this until the cannon is sufficiently blackened. I have found that submersing the cannon for too long results in the blackening not working evenly. Some folk dilute the Birchwood Casey, but I don't. I also pour it back into the bottle to reuse. Not sure if everybody else uses it in this way, but I have done a bit of experimenting over the last couple of years and this method works best for me. One bottle lasts a long time. Hope this helps you, cheers Steve.
  24. hornet
    I use Admiralty paints a lot too. I agree with the 50:50 mix that Nick suggests. However, like Nick, I have come to the conclusion that for some jobs, brushing is quicker and easier. Admiralty paints provide very good coverage and finish. I have completed one Caldercraft model, The HMS SUPPLY which I painted with Admiralty Dull (metal) Black because the guns were Britannia metal. However my current build, HMAV Bounty has brass cannons. I use Birchwood Casey (available on eBay) and get a nice burnished finish. If your Victory is supplied with brass cannons, I'd suggest blackening as you get a much better finish and it is much quicker.
  25. hornet
    Errrr it's Steve not Chris..... but yes I will add Bounty to my Gallery but it probably won't be finished for another 6 - 12 months. I tend to tinker with the basic kits, replacing or modifying kit parts and ropes with ones I make myself. If you haven't built many kits, I would suggest the Suppy or Bounty before attempting the Endeavour ( I have all three) as the Endeavour is a lot more complicated. You will find build logs for her on this site if you want to get an idea. The Supply is a great little kit. I did a fair bit of research and made quite a few modifications to the basic kit. The Bounty is a good kit too, not much harder than the Supply and seems fairly accurate when compared with the AOTS reference book.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...