Jump to content

hornet

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    661

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by hornet

  1. hornet
    Terry From memory, I too had to take quite a bit off bulkheads 9, 10 & 11. Frank has given you some very good advise about using a batten. From memory I had to add some `meat' to a couple of the other bulwarks using the method Frank describes - using 0.5 strips. Just make sure you get her smooth and level. It's better to get it right at this stage than having to overuse filler and sand the hell out of it later. I dug up a photo of my HMB Supply at this stage from my archives. Hope it helps. Steve
  2. hornet
    I have purchased both flax and linen thread quite cheaply from antique/ collectable shops. Apparently the spools they come on are collectable.
  3. hornet
    I would say that sanding back is your best option here. Just make sure that the Cargo hatches and hole for main mast line up with the keel. Looking at your second photo, this seems to be the case. If they are lined up, you probably only need to sand one side. If not, you will have to centre the main deck then sand both sides. BTW, when I built my Supply, I reduced the width of the main cargo hatch on this centre deck. If you look at the photograph of the model on the front of the kit box, you will notice how close this hatch comes to the rear of the guns. In my opinion it would have been too close for the crew to work them. I reduced its width by a deck plank on each side (about 1cm) Cheers Steve
  4. hornet
    Hi Terry Personally I find fairing in a challenging part of a build. Sometimes you need to take quite a bit of 'meat' off the edge of a bulkhead to get the lines right. It's hard to tell from just one photo / one angle, but it looks to me like the bottom of bulkhead 2 needs more fairing in so that the planks sit squarely on its edge as they come around onto the filler blocks. At the moment it looks to me as if the plank would only sit on the leading edge of this bulkhead. Have you bent up a plank yet to use as a guide to check if it sits snugly on this bulkhead? Cheers Steve
  5. hornet
    Caldercraft make a range. They are sold by Cornwall Models. (See link below) or you could scratch build one as I did on my HMB Supply. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft-ships-boats.html
  6. hornet
    Hi Terry Another thing to check is whether or not the dowel for the two masts slides easily into the two slots provided for them in the keel. From memory one of them was a bit tight on my Supply. Easier to adjust this now than after planking and deck had been fitted. I did not cut a rabbet on my Supply. Nor did I fit the bow piece (part 23) before the first layer of planking. Caldercraft actually sent me the wrong board containing the bow piece and I ended up scratch building one I completed the first planking, then cut the planks level down the bow, THEN fitted my home made bow piece. The fit was very flush. I then fitted the second layer of planking. P.S when you go to square up your bulkheads, using clamps and Lego blocks works well. See pic below. I also colour the edge of the bulkheads black. This allows me to get a more even result when fairing them in. Bow of my Supply below:
  7. hornet
    Hi Terry I used balsa for bow and stern fillers on my 'Supply'. I gave the balsa a few coats of watered down PVA glue after shaping and fitting to try and give it a little more strength and stability. It worked OK. On past builds I always used pine blocks as fillers and I think I will go back to them on my current build. While the pine is a little tougher to shape, I think it provides a more solid base for the planking screws to screw into when holding planks in position while glue is drying. This is particularly the case when dealing with buff bow sections or some of the tight curves which occur at the stern. There is a great tutorial on shaping bow and stern fillers in the planking and framing link on the NRG site. If you haven't read it, I suggest you do. Steve
  8. hornet
    Terry I ended up making my own pintles & gudgeons (rudder hinges) for my HMB Supply. See link below. Good luck with your build http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4679-the-kit-bashers-guide-to-the-galaxy/page-5 Steve
  9. hornet
    I used to store all my threads in an old fishing tackle box but got sick and tired of them getting jumbled and tangled so I thought of an alternative. I drilled holes ( at an angle) along the edge of some scrap timber. I lined some nails up with the holes and then placed my spools of thread on the nails and pulled the ends through the holes thus creating a dispenser of sorts. I have a few like this. I have collected quite a lot of 'antique' cotton and linen threads from antique and collectible shops. They are relatively cheap - apparently the spools are collectible - and, in my opinion, are often better quality than the modern stuff. Hope the idea helps someone who also suffers from tangled thread syndrome. Cheers Steve
  10. hornet
    Hi Mark. When I first built my rope walker, I was hoping for it to be hand powered. However, if I wanted to make up a rope of a decent length it was far too slow to be practical. I now run mine with a variable speed battery operated drill. It is much easier. I've not seen the ME one but I would guess you may have the same problem with it as well. Steve
  11. hornet
    You can also make your own rope walk. I have done this using Lego, scrap timber, perspex and a few screws, nuts and bolts. It may not look as flash as commercially bought rope walks but it cost me very little and does the job. There are lots of ideas that you can copy ou YouTube.
  12. hornet
    Just re-reading this thread and realised that the number and size of plates for the Amati 1:60 version could be similar to my current build the Caldercraft Bounty (1:64) Supplied with this kit are 800 plates which you can get from Cornwall model boats. I bought some from them a while back for my HMB Supply build. It was actually cheaper to get them from England than buy locally - although our $$$ has dropped in value somewhat since then They come in packs of 100
  13. hornet
    Hi Terry. Having completed this build myself, I can say that there is very little literature out there about her. I used the Sydney Powerhouse Museum model as well as some contemporary paintings (found on the net) as a guide. Also used Dan V's and Dfel's models ( in kit gallery). I found that the most useful resource was 'Rigging Period Ships' by Lennarth Petersson. It was most helpful as the rigging plan in the Caldercraft Supply seemed to be somewhat 'Dumbed Down' for beginners. Best of luck with her, I look forward to following your log. Steve
  14. hornet
    I have a number of Proxxon tools including a scroll saw. Haven' t had any issues yet. Proxxon tools come with a 2 year warranty. If it were me I would return it to the supplier rather than stuff around with it and perhaps void any warranty.
  15. hornet
    Hi Robbyn Check this one out. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9JWlSFzJ8uA Steve
  16. hornet
    After watching that clip, I am glad I left my Victory unpainted
  17. hornet
    I agree with the above posts. I have a badger Model 200 single action brush. It is a little beauty.
  18. hornet
    Michael, in addition to the advice given above I would suggest you go for a single action airbrush. I have both a single and double action brush and have been using both for a couple of years. The single action is usually cheaper to buy than the double action. It is easier to use and clean. It does a great job when painting small and large areas. I assume you will be using acrylic paints as they are much easier to clean up and dry a lot quicker. I use Admiralty paints exclusively. They give good coverage, are authentic colours and can be thinned with water for use in an airbrush. My recent build, HMB Supply (in my gallery) was almost completely painted using a single action airbrush and Admiralty Paints. Cheers Steve
  19. hornet
    Hi Nick. I have had one for about 18 months. It has done a lot of work in that time. I have found it to be robust, accurate and very quiet. Changing disc pads is easy and quick. You should be happy with your purchase if you decide to get one. Steve
  20. hornet
    After mixing and using acrylic paint in my airbrush, I store the surplus in syringes which I seal with the end of a nail. I have stored paint this way for many months. Syringes are available cheaply on eBay and I have made stands to store them. Being transparent makes it easy to determine the colour of the paint and being stored in a syringe makes it very easy and economical to reuse the paint. In addition, also available on eBay, are plastic bottles designed for storing acrylic paint for use in an airbrush. These are also quite economical to buy. Search airbrush supplies on eBay if interested.
  21. hornet
    I have a vacuum next to my to my workspace which removes any sawdust very soon after it s created. I also have a CAT who enjoys seeing how far she can belt anything that has been left out overnight or chew anything that looks remotely edible. Needless to say this encourages me to put things away after use maybe you should get a CAT???? Said CAT waiting for her opportunity to create havoc:)
  22. hornet
    You are correct Daniel it is 1:50. Your build leaves it for dead though Cheers Steve
  23. hornet
    Hi Captain Steve I use a similar method with a bit of a 'twist' so to speak. I have taken two different diameter brass nails and cut off the heads. I filed one side of the top of each nail flat so that I could drill a 0.8mm hole through each. The nails were then whipped into dowel handles. Using two different diameter nails allowed for different sided rings and hooks. Rings are produced in the same manner as you demonstrated except that I start by placing the brass wire in the hole before wrapping it around the nail. This allows more 'grip' and produces a 'tighter' ring. Hooks are made similarly. I place one end of the brass wire in the hole, bend to shape then cut the wire, reverse it and bend again. I usually then place them in my fly tying vice and silver solder before blackening with Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Cheers Steve
  24. hornet
    Hi Siegfried Just discovered your Mercury build. It looks great. I have built this one myself - from the kit by Modeller's Shipyard/Central. Could I ask, is this based on that kit or is it a totally scratch build? Also, earlier in your build log you stated that the Mercury is depicted on the Australian $10 note. It is in fact depicted on the Australian $20 note along with its owner Mary Reibey. She was a VERY interesting character. If you have not read about her, she led a very interesting (and long) life. I have scanned a $20 Aussie banknote below for you to have a look at and a brief biography of Mary as well. http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/reibey-mary-2583 Cheers Steve
  25. hornet
    Agree 100% John. I reckon there are countless unfinished Corel Victories around the world that were purchased by inexperienced builders who became disillusioned and gave up. At the time I bought mine ( mid eighties) it was half price - Unfortunately I couldn't resist a bargain Cheers Steve

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...