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hornet

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Everything posted by hornet

  1. hornet
    The belaying pins provided with my Caldercraft Bounty also looked more like bowling pins. I remedied this by reducing the diameter of the top section by about 50% using sandpaper and my proxxon lathe.
  2. hornet
    Great result Graham, certainly a lot better than you would have got with flat black paint. cheers Steve
  3. hornet
    Great Graham. A couple of tips when using Birchwood Casey. Make sure your cannon are free of any contaminates such as grease ( from your fingers) by soaking them in white vinegar then drying with a tissue ( without touching them with your fingers) Don't soak them in the Birchwood Casey for too long - about 30 seconds. Remove, wipe with a tissue ( some of the blackening will come off) and resoak. Continue doing this until the cannon is sufficiently blackened. I have found that submersing the cannon for too long results in the blackening not working evenly. Some folk dilute the Birchwood Casey, but I don't. I also pour it back into the bottle to reuse. Not sure if everybody else uses it in this way, but I have done a bit of experimenting over the last couple of years and this method works best for me. One bottle lasts a long time. Hope this helps you, cheers Steve.
  4. hornet
    I use Admiralty paints a lot too. I agree with the 50:50 mix that Nick suggests. However, like Nick, I have come to the conclusion that for some jobs, brushing is quicker and easier. Admiralty paints provide very good coverage and finish. I have completed one Caldercraft model, The HMS SUPPLY which I painted with Admiralty Dull (metal) Black because the guns were Britannia metal. However my current build, HMAV Bounty has brass cannons. I use Birchwood Casey (available on eBay) and get a nice burnished finish. If your Victory is supplied with brass cannons, I'd suggest blackening as you get a much better finish and it is much quicker.
  5. hornet
    Errrr it's Steve not Chris..... but yes I will add Bounty to my Gallery but it probably won't be finished for another 6 - 12 months. I tend to tinker with the basic kits, replacing or modifying kit parts and ropes with ones I make myself. If you haven't built many kits, I would suggest the Suppy or Bounty before attempting the Endeavour ( I have all three) as the Endeavour is a lot more complicated. You will find build logs for her on this site if you want to get an idea. The Supply is a great little kit. I did a fair bit of research and made quite a few modifications to the basic kit. The Bounty is a good kit too, not much harder than the Supply and seems fairly accurate when compared with the AOTS reference book.
  6. hornet
    Welcome Fernando I've built most of the Modellers Shipyard/Central kits (see my gallery) The instructions are quite good and the accompanying DVD's are great for beginners. However, I think they are overpriced. If your mind is not totally made up, have a look at the Caldercraft range that is available from Miniature Steam Models in Melbourne. I have completed HMS Supply and am currently working on the Bounty. Their Endeavour will be next. They have a couple of 'easier' kits too. All in all good value for money and Miniature Steam Models is great to deal with. cheers Steve. http://www.miniaturesteammodels.com/jotika-models-nelsons-navy
  7. hornet
    I can see the need for using a drill, powered or hand, to drill into a solid hull, but I have never used either to drill through the deck of a POB hull for fear of damaging the deck. Much easier to cut through with a #11 hobby knife and then make small angle adjustments with a round file. Only very small adjustments are needed to achieve the correct angles and the hole is usually covered by a mast base anyway.
  8. hornet
    Eddie I have been looking for a reasonable band saw myself. The range sold by Hare and Forbes seems to be worth a look Steve http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Bandsaw
  9. hornet
    I will be watching with interest Danny. Your post prompted me to read up on HMVS Cerberus. A very interesting story. I did not realise it was still visible and recognisable after being scuttled in 1926. My stepson trained at HMAS Cerberus and now serves on Collins Class Subs in Perth. I now know the origin of the name of the base cheers Steve
  10. hornet
    Just an observation, but why have you cut your deck planks so short? At that scale I would guess each plank should be at least 120mm in length. By making your deck planking longer, you avoid having so many joins. It also means that it is both easier to 'line up' your planks and they are less likely to lift at the ends. My advice is to sand back and have another go. It will take more time but, in the long run, you will be happier with the result. Also, I assume by your reference to WW1 Aero Historians, that you are an Aussie. If so I would suggest you get to Bunnings and buy some Aquadhere quickset pva glue. It is great stuff and as the name suggests, it sets very quickly. I would also advise that you use CA glue very, very sparingly. I only use it on copper plates and sometimes on the end of planks that have a very tight curve and need to be kept in place while the PVA sets. All the best with your Endeavour build. Steve
  11. hornet
    Hi all A trick/ technique that I use is to trace the 'false deck' onto paper and then draw up planks and planking pattern on it before beginning. Experiment by drawing up a shift pattern, say 4 or 5. If you are not happy with how it looks, flip over and redraw on the other side. You can then track/ check off on this pattern as you plank your deck. The image below is of the deck of my current build (HMS Bounty). Note that I have written the plank pattern near the bow and ticked off each plank as it is fitted. This technique may not be for everyone, but it helps me
  12. hornet
    I bought an Aeropiccola plank bender about 35 years ago. Have built 10 ship's with it and it is still going strong. I usually clamp it in a vice when bending planks over it. While the one shown in the link below has a different shaped head and no spring loaded roller (as the Ralt RA5 has) I think it would still work quite well if held in a vice and presoaked planks were bent over it. http://www.hobbytools.com.au/electric-plank-bending-tool-240volt/
  13. hornet
    Hi Druxey. I have used heat and steam for over 30 years. However, there are still times, particularly on buff bows where you need something - planking screws - to hold planks in place until glue dries. Cheers Steve
  14. hornet
    I have used the plastic ones but screw shaft tends to come loose in the plastic over time. This can be remedied, in some cases, by applying heat and melting the plastic a little so it grips the shaft more tightly. Pushpins are great on the first planking of a double planked hull but tend to damage the second planking if you are not careful. I designed some of my own using plastic clothes pegs. I have posted the method of making these previously but here is the link fir anyone who has not seen it and may be interested. Cheers Steve http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3734-planking-screws-moved-by-moderator/
  15. hornet
    Dupree I have found one advertised on eBay if that is any help to you. Cheers Steve http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Precision-Router-Base-For-Dremel-Tool-Freehand-Routing-Inlaying-Luthier-Tool-/111179440399
  16. hornet
    Pink cannon, cool
  17. hornet
    Hi PeteB I found this one on the Bunnings website. Not as good as the one above but once you add shipping to the $55 US price tag of the Stewart MacDonald version I think it would be about 1/3 the price. https://www.bunnings.com.au/dremel-plunge-router-attachment_p6373700 I found a YouTube clip as well https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oqu-Ni12oic Cheers Steve
  18. hornet
    I built my own router table for my proxxon mini router, but that looks like a great addition. I will investigate Thanks Steve
  19. hornet
    I usually knock up a few of these deadeye holders or resize ones I have used on past builds. They are made from tie wire which is cut to the appropriate length. The ends are then bent and silver soldered together so as to hold two of the holes in the deadeye on either end - you could probably twist the wire instead of soldering it. Mount the lower deadeyes on the channels/strops then fit the wire to them ensuring the length of each is the same. You can then proceed to adjust your shrouds/top deadeyes to the appropriate length. Cheers Steve
  20. hornet
    When I first constructed my rope walker (see link below) I intended it to be hand powered. This proved to be impractical so I ended up using the dial/variable speed controller from my Domanoff serving machine coupled with an inexpensive motor from an electronics store. I had intended to use a sewing machine motor and control pedal but I found that once the correct speed is selected there is little need for adjustment - just switch it off when complete - therefore a foot pedal was unnecessary. I know that you can get these type of dial/variable type speed controllers from any electronic store. Maybe this would be a simpler method you could consider. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14464-inexpensive-powered-rope-walker/ Happy New Year to All Steve
  21. hornet
    Hi Rick. You say that you 'shaved' your deck area down suit the transom. That is what I am suggesting too That is how I would describe what is done on the video. The ply deck and the ply support underneath is faired (shaved) to meet smoothly with the transom. The edge of the transom is also faired so as to allow for a smooth run of planks. I have taken a photo of the transom of my Mermaid. See below. Cheers Steve
  22. hornet
    Hi Cabbie. It's been a while since I finished my Mermaid so I went back and had a look at the video on the ship's construction that I bought from Modeller's Shipyard to remind me what I did with this problem. In the video the deck is faired back to the transom. I took a photo of my tv screen on pause at this point in the video. See it below. Hope this helps. Steve
  23. hornet
    Hi Tom Miniature Steam - also based in Melbourne selling online - also stocks Admiralty Paints. These paints are acrylic, have excellent coverage, are historically accurate and work very well in an airbrush. Link below. http://www.miniaturesteammodels.com/admiralty-paints Cheers Steve
  24. hornet
    The paint that is sold by Caldercraft/Jokita is Admiralty Paint. It is acrylic and has very good coverage. The colours are supposedly accurate for 18th century ships. The yellow ochre is NOT bright yellow. I would best describe it as mustard. I have painted some on a slip of paper below. Total accuracy online is difficult to achieve because it very much depends on the screen you are viewing, but you get the idea. I have used it on my Caldercraft 'Supply' if you want to check it out, go to my gallery link below. Cheers Steve
  25. hornet
    Thanks Mark. Post some pics when you've build yours. Cheers Steve

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