hornet
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Everything posted by hornet
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soldering iron or torch? advice please
hornet replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Mark I have done similar jobs using silver solder. You can purchase what you need - including a micro torch - from Jaycar. Cheers Steve. -
Get yourself a cheap fly tying vice - used to make flies for fishing. There are plenty of cheap ones available on eBay. I use mine extensively when rigging. Steve
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I am currently building the Caldercraft version. I'm happy with the quality except for the walnut planks included or the second layer of planking. I've built the Caldercraft Supply and have the Caldercraft Endeavour on the shelf. This is an ongoing issue with Caldercraft. I wish they would look at improving the quality of this timber. The only consolation is that they provide plenty of planks. Plans are OK but I am using the the A.O.T.S - Bounty - as well. I will also probably scratch build many of the fittings. Steve
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This clip should help you. It's the method I use too. https://m.youtube.com/watch?autoplay=1&v=WUrRb66VSSE Steve
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It is also available on iBooks. I read it recently too - well researched and written!!
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Building scratch deck furniture is my favourite part of a build but I do enjoy rigging. I have just built my own motorised rope walker and will be making my own ropes for my current build - The Bounty - when the time comes. This should make rigging even more satisfying.
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This is grating and how it is assembled.
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That is exactly what they are Richard. They can be cut to size for different sized grates then framed all around with some timber the same height. I found that the easiest way to make them was to dry fit them together them drop the grate into a bath of thinned down wood glue. Let them soak for a few seconds then allow to dry on greased or oven bake paper (so they don't stick)
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Cardboard drink coasters are great for making up templates for items such as filler blocks.
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Terry Below is a pic of the stern of the Powerhouse Museum Model as well as the stern of my Supply (My Supply on top). I used a piece of black card and glued the timber frame of the windows to it - then glued the windows to the stern. The `glass' was in fact a 2 part clear epoxy which is used to cover/protect the 'whipping' on fishing rod guides (I also build my own fishing rods) but I suppose you could use clear plastic for this.
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Hi again Terry Have you taken a look at the stern photo of the model of the 'Supply' in the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney. I used it and a contemporary painting (which I cannot now find) to build stern windows for my Supply. Cheers Steve
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Terry Adding another level of 5mm planking to the top then sanding it back with a sanding block is exactly what I would do too. It's all a learning curve Cheers Steve
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Hi Terry Looking Good. One thing I did notice from your photos, and you may already intend to rectify this, is that the top layer of planking on the bow section is not the same distance from the deck for its entire length (it tapers towards the front) See arrowed copy of your photo below. If left like this it is not going to look right and it will also be impossible to drill hawser holes through the front for your anchor ropes (not wide enough) Once the bow piece (part 23) is fitted only 1 - 2 mm of it should be above the level of the top planks at the bow (and it should be sloping upwards towards the front) so that you can fix the bowsprit to it. I've added a couple of close up pics of my Supply to illustrate what I am getting at. Hope this helps. Steve
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Home made paint palette
hornet replied to hornet's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Ken. Got them from eBay. Item listed as follows: Blunt dispensing needle syringe needle tips 4" 14 gauge. cheers Steve -
When painting with a brush I used to work straight from the jar/bottle but I found this was often a little messy. Recently I purchased some dispensing needles and syringes very cheaply on eBay. These are great of removing paint from a bottle with the minimum amount of mess. They are also great for sucking out all unused paint from the bowl of my single action air brush. I also made up a simple paint palette using bottle tops glued to a piece of wood. I used some new bottle tops left over from by 'brewing' days but I am sure used ones would work just as well. The inside of the lids were lined with plastic so they were easy to clean (I only use acrylics) after use. Combined with the dispensing needles it means I can reduce mess and wastage when completing fiddly jobs with a brush. Cheers Steve
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I get my Wattyl polyurethane at Home hardware. I think any brand of matt or satin would do the same job though. It's just that I have used Wattyl for years and change is bad
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GLOSS varnish or polyurethane is generally not recommended for finishing your model - too 'shiny' and unrealistic. Many modellers use tung oil or something similar. I use MATT or SATIN polyurethane diluted 50:50 with low odour turps and applied with an airbrush. In Australia Wattyl make an Interior Estapol - which is what I use. If you don't have access to an airbrush you can use the spray can variety. Interestingly Australia's biggest hardware chain - Bunnings - does not carry Wattyl products any more. Other hardware outlets do though. Hope this helps. Steve
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aluminum planking clamps
hornet replied to umeckt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Or you could try making your own. I made these up out of plastic clothes pegs quite a while ago. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3734-planking-screws-moved-by-moderator/?hl=%2Bplanking+%2Bscrews -
Why remove nails?
hornet replied to halfmoonheinz's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
When fitting the first layer of planks, I do not nail them in place. I use planking screws. However, If you are going to nail your planks in place and not remove the nails when the glue is dry, it would make sanding the planks back to an even surface difficult. The main purpose of the first layer of planks on a double planked hull is to provide strength and the correct shape to a hull - through sanding and, if necessary, filling the surface with wood filler or a mix of PVA glue and wood dust. It also gives you practise at correctly shaping planks before fitting the second layer. -
Terry From memory, I too had to take quite a bit off bulkheads 9, 10 & 11. Frank has given you some very good advise about using a batten. From memory I had to add some `meat' to a couple of the other bulwarks using the method Frank describes - using 0.5 strips. Just make sure you get her smooth and level. It's better to get it right at this stage than having to overuse filler and sand the hell out of it later. I dug up a photo of my HMB Supply at this stage from my archives. Hope it helps. Steve
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I have purchased both flax and linen thread quite cheaply from antique/ collectable shops. Apparently the spools they come on are collectable.
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I would say that sanding back is your best option here. Just make sure that the Cargo hatches and hole for main mast line up with the keel. Looking at your second photo, this seems to be the case. If they are lined up, you probably only need to sand one side. If not, you will have to centre the main deck then sand both sides. BTW, when I built my Supply, I reduced the width of the main cargo hatch on this centre deck. If you look at the photograph of the model on the front of the kit box, you will notice how close this hatch comes to the rear of the guns. In my opinion it would have been too close for the crew to work them. I reduced its width by a deck plank on each side (about 1cm) Cheers Steve
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Hi Terry Personally I find fairing in a challenging part of a build. Sometimes you need to take quite a bit of 'meat' off the edge of a bulkhead to get the lines right. It's hard to tell from just one photo / one angle, but it looks to me like the bottom of bulkhead 2 needs more fairing in so that the planks sit squarely on its edge as they come around onto the filler blocks. At the moment it looks to me as if the plank would only sit on the leading edge of this bulkhead. Have you bent up a plank yet to use as a guide to check if it sits snugly on this bulkhead? Cheers Steve
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Caldercraft make a range. They are sold by Cornwall Models. (See link below) or you could scratch build one as I did on my HMB Supply. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft-ships-boats.html
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Hi Terry Another thing to check is whether or not the dowel for the two masts slides easily into the two slots provided for them in the keel. From memory one of them was a bit tight on my Supply. Easier to adjust this now than after planking and deck had been fitted. I did not cut a rabbet on my Supply. Nor did I fit the bow piece (part 23) before the first layer of planking. Caldercraft actually sent me the wrong board containing the bow piece and I ended up scratch building one I completed the first planking, then cut the planks level down the bow, THEN fitted my home made bow piece. The fit was very flush. I then fitted the second layer of planking. P.S when you go to square up your bulkheads, using clamps and Lego blocks works well. See pic below. I also colour the edge of the bulkheads black. This allows me to get a more even result when fairing them in. Bow of my Supply below:
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