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hornet
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Everything posted by hornet
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To Kurt's philosophy I would also add the following: He who dies with the most toys WINS!!!!!!! My Chopper II works well on anything less than about 2mm in thickness. After that I find that the blade tends to flex and a square cut is difficult to achieve. This is when my little Proxxon KS 230 circular saw takes over. I have found the chopper to be most useful for repetitive jobs like cutting deck planking.
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Brick75 and Jparsley. Buy or make yourself some planking screws and use titebond or quick dry PVA when planking. CA is more trouble than it is worth when planking. Home made planking screws shown on thread below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3734-planking-screws-moved-by-moderator/ -
Being half way through my Caldercraft build of HM Supply, I too found many differences between the Caldercraft and the Artesania kits. After close inspection of the build by Dan Vadas I noticed the model seemed more `rounded' than the Caldercraft kit. When comparing them both to the Powerhouse Museum model, I could see that both kits had some similarities and some differences to this as well. Things became even more confused for me when I looked at a contemporary painting of the HM Supply (see below) I think that the overall `shape' of the Caldercraft version is more accurate, but many other details are more accurately shown in the Artesania Latina kit. The Caldercraft kit was reasonably inexpensive and this may account for some of the omissions (like a ship's boat). With a lot of `bashing' I have ended up producing a hybrid of all four configurations. It may not be entirely accurate but I am having fun with it.
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I too am fascinated by Shackelton's amazing feats of endurance. I purchased the reprint of his book 'South' as part of a Time Life Series - 'Classics of Exploration' many, many years ago. The story and the B/W photo's in this book are remarkable. I am very interested to hear that a kit of the 'Endurance' is coming out at the end of the year. Does anyone know who is producing it?
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Paints ain't just paints...
hornet replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have also found Admiralty Acrylic Paints to be excellent. The colours are authentic and they work very well when diluted for an airbrush. Even though they might not be considered 'cheap,' the fact that they give excellent coverage makes them, in my opinion, very economical. I also love the new lid which is a flip top and has a small lip at the rear which prevents paint spilling down the side of the bottle when opened. -
Video of a serving machine being used
hornet replied to achuck49's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Chuck, an example of a `served' rope. This pic was taken on board the Endeavour replica.
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Video of a serving machine being used
hornet replied to achuck49's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I purchased Alexey's motorised serving machine some time ago and made a modification which allows the reel of cotton used in the process to be mounted on a rod at the front of the machine rather than just sitting on the bench top. I have found it to be a useful addition. I also found greasing the shaft where it goes through the supports with fishing reel grease makes the whole machine work more efficiently. Check out the link below if interested. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7712-domanoff-rope-serving-machine/page-2 -
Hi Bryan. As you move forward with your second layer of planking, you may like to consider using PVA wood glue instead of CA (superglue). The use of wood glue such as titebond, or my preferred glue a quick drying PVA from Selleys is not only much easier on your fingers because it is water based but is a lot more economical and has no toxic fumes - as CA does. You can use a gel type CA (this is not runny) on the end of the planks to help hold them in place while the PVA glue dries ( only a couple of minutes in the case of the quickset PVA). Using PVA allows you to move, adjust or even remove an reshape where necessary. CA is much less forgiving.
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Thanks Derek, but I was actually interested in John's ( Neptune) take on the warranty issue. I'm sure that purchasing from Germany would not be an issue if you were in the UK but could be if you are a zillion kilometres away in Australia.
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Varnishing the Ship??
hornet replied to LFrankCPA's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
LFrankCPA check out the following thread http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9623-low-sheen-finish-that-can-take-glue/- 1 reply
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Hi John ( Neptune) The price you quote for the MF 70 milling machine is excellent - compared to prices on offer in OZ. I have bought a number of Proxxon tools locally ( even if they cost a bit more) mainly because I am concerned about warranty backup when purchasing from overseas. How does purchasing this tool direct from Germany effect your warranty? Cheers Steve
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I'm not keen to 'clog up' your build log with my stuff Brian. I'll try resending the PM.
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Hi Phil. Great idea - citric acid!! Lemons contain citric acid. Have you tried blackening the ball bearings with this or is the concentration not enough for the job?
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Have a read of the post from Paul Garcia on this link from another modelling forum. It made me think about the marketing practices of MicroMark. The follow up comments on the thread are also very interesting. http://www.network54.com/Forum/47211/thread/1354040989/Micro-mark+rivet+decals+in+the+U.K
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Brian, do you have messenger enabled. From my end it says the massage has been sent but not read by you. I've never had a problem sending a message before. Not sure what the problem is otherwise
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From what I have read on this site and on links provided by members over recent weeks, it seems a pity MSW can't ban certain tool companies just like some model ship companies are banned. It seems as if much of what is sold by micromark is either dodgy, dangerous or ripped off from another reputable tool company. I will certainly never buy a micromark product no matter how big a bargain it is.
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You may also want to shape and glue a couple of pieces of ply under the front and rear of the main deck ( part 21). There is quite a lot of flex in it where it butts up to bulkhead 8 at the stern end and bulkhead 3 at the bow end. I have also sent you a PM with a few pics and some other ideas I have used in my build so far.
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My preferred support when planking is single malt whisky.
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Blackening Very Small Pieces
hornet replied to FredSC's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I have just used Birchwood Casey to blacken the photo etched dead eye straps for my HM Supply. I gave them a rub back with some fine emery paper first then soaked them briefly in the lid of a plastic take away container. They came out fine. Much easier than painting. Thanks for reminding me David!!!! I also soaked in white vinegar after rubbing them back - before soaking in Birchwood Casey -
Hi Bryan. I am somewhat ahead of you on the same build. Am about to start work on the masts and yards. Have done a fair bit of bashing of the kit though. My only comment at this stage is that the supplied timber for the second layer of planking is quite brittlle, rough and splintery, particularly on the edges. You will probably need to go through the whole lot and disregard some of them. Luckily Caldercraft provides more than enough to complete the job. I also found a very good example of this ship in the online exhibit from the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney. It is worth a look if you are considering any bashing. Use the Museum search facility - enter HM Armed Brig Supply - 24 hi res pics.
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Interesting thread. Whatever you use - other than some sort of filler material - would need to be able to be pulled through a drawplate such as the one produced by Jim Byrnes, otherwise scale would become an issue. I prefer to stick with bamboo myself.
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I usually collect a small container (I use old 35mm film canisters) of wood dust from whatever wood I am using at the time. This is mixed with a small quantity of PVA glue to form a paste. This can be used to fill small 'tack' holes. I also bought a cheap set of palette knives (used in oil painting) these are good for applying the paste to the hull. Agree with Druxey though, invest in some planking screws or search this site for some home made ones. There are a number of ideas around.
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I sympathise with you about the walnut planks provided by Caldercraft. The rest of the kit components and the plans are good but I found the walnut planking on my Caldercraft Supply to be of poor quality as well. I have the Caldercraft Endeavour and Bounty on the shelf and the walnut strips provided for them are no better. You say you are drilling out the gunports. I am wondering if you are using too large a drill bit for this, and that is why the planking is splitting. I would experiment on a piece of scrap with a very fine bit such as a 1.0 or 0.8 mm. Drill about a 1 mm inside the final dimensions of the gunports and finish off by sanding.
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Not sure quite what you mean Joshua, but clamping the wood in a vice then wrapping your sandpaper around a wood block should allow you, with slow and steady passes, to achieve the angle you require. You could also consider scribing a line and sanding to that to ensure you get the desired angle.
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Hi Michael. Check out the discussion about waxing rigging line on this thread. Hope it helps you. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7480-wax-for-rigging-lines/page-2?hl=waxing
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