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hornet
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hornet got a reaction from ERS Rich in Worst Planking Job Ever
Try to start tapering your planks from the bulkhead that starts to reduce in size( length measured with a tape measure - if that makes sense) you really should be tapering planks to around 50% of their width by the time they reach the bow. Also try not to twist or bend planks unnatural or against the grain. Best of luck, don’t give up.
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hornet reacted to chris watton in Vanguard models without simplified rigging
All of the range have proper rigging. The term 'Simplified' only refers to the omission of most of the sail related running rigging, like sheets, tacks, clews and bowlines. Rigging directly associated with the spars is always included (lifts, braces, jeers etc.) - and always full standing rigging (shrouds, ratlines, stays etc.).
The kits that have 'full rig' (including at least sheets, tacks and clews) are Alert, Speedy, Flirt, the 6 fishing vessels, but have very simple rig anyway, and sail options, Trial, Sphinx, Harpy and of course, Indy. The remainder omits most of the sail related rig (Duchess of Kingston, Grecian, Sherbourne and Adder). However, the extra rig is very easy to add if you wish.
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hornet got a reaction from hollowneck in HMS Adder Rudder/Tiller/wheel.
Thanks Chris. I appreciate your explanation. Love the detail in this kit!
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hornet got a reaction from AJohnson in HMS Adder Rudder/Tiller/wheel.
Thanks Chris. I appreciate your explanation. Love the detail in this kit!
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hornet got a reaction from chris watton in HMS Adder Rudder/Tiller/wheel.
Thanks Chris. I appreciate your explanation. Love the detail in this kit!
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hornet reacted to chris watton in HMS Adder Rudder/Tiller/wheel.
My fault, I really should have added an explanation in the manual.
The tiller that you see is auxiliary - there is another tiller arm a little further down the rudder. If you look at the rudder, you can see I simulated the start of the lower tiller arm (a little stub near the top, but lower than the deck tiller arm)
If you also showed a picture of the actual rudder, the lower tiller stub would be seen.
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hornet reacted to rhephner in Worst Planking Job Ever
Thank you all for the words of encouragement. I think next steps will be to get a curling iron, watch more videos, and taper more. I think I’m on the right track, but need to follow through more.
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hornet reacted to Ronald-V in Vanguard MDF
Personally don't have problems with it. Did have ply with my HMS Pickle build, and now MDF with the Sphinx i'm building. The MDF is very easy to work with regarding sanding. For the very fine pieces, use very fine tools with little pressure. I can not much more say about it.
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hornet got a reaction from palmerit in recommendations for window glass for model ships
I use a two part epoxy designed for covering the thread binding runners to fishing rods. It can be tinted if you like
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hornet got a reaction from Mr Whippy in Bounty - Caldercraft or Amanti
I am currently building the Caldercraft version. I'm happy with the quality except for the walnut planks included or the second layer of planking. I've built the Caldercraft Supply and have the Caldercraft Endeavour on the shelf. This is an ongoing issue with Caldercraft. I wish they would look at improving the quality of this timber. The only consolation is that they provide plenty of planks. Plans are OK but I am using the the A.O.T.S - Bounty - as well. I will also probably scratch build many of the fittings.
Steve
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hornet got a reaction from SaltyScot in Received partially-built Corel Victory -- worth salvaging?
I built this kit many years ago. There is a great deal left to do and I don’t think you would come out the other end with a satisfied feeling. In my opinion you should put the rest of the kit into your store of spares and write off the hull. My Corel Victory pictured below.
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hornet got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Received partially-built Corel Victory -- worth salvaging?
I built this kit many years ago. There is a great deal left to do and I don’t think you would come out the other end with a satisfied feeling. In my opinion you should put the rest of the kit into your store of spares and write off the hull. My Corel Victory pictured below.
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hornet got a reaction from Keith Black in Received partially-built Corel Victory -- worth salvaging?
I built this kit many years ago. There is a great deal left to do and I don’t think you would come out the other end with a satisfied feeling. In my opinion you should put the rest of the kit into your store of spares and write off the hull. My Corel Victory pictured below.
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hornet got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Received partially-built Corel Victory -- worth salvaging?
I built this kit many years ago. There is a great deal left to do and I don’t think you would come out the other end with a satisfied feeling. In my opinion you should put the rest of the kit into your store of spares and write off the hull. My Corel Victory pictured below.
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hornet got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Endurance 1/70 Scale by OCCRE
I recently completed the Endurance. I found a number of problems. The funnel was the incorrect shape. Belaying pins supplied were too big. Supplied rope was not always to scale, only two sizes of deadeyes when more sizes would have allowed for more accurate representation. Anchor chain also out of scale(links too small) Portholes on side of cabin were out of scale (too small) Propeller had 3 blades and should have only had two. Supplied flag incorrect. Should have been a blue ensign not a white ensign. I wouldn’t recommend this kit to you if you were keen on historical accuracy.
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hornet got a reaction from mtaylor in Which HMS Victory kit do I have?
Having built the Corel version, I would say the dimensions don’t look quite right.
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hornet got a reaction from mtdoramike in Need tips on deadeyes rigging
I usually knock up a few of these deadeye holders or resize ones I have used on past builds. They are made from tie wire which is cut to the appropriate length. The ends are then bent and silver soldered together so as to hold two of the holes in the deadeye on either end - you could probably twist the wire instead of soldering it. Mount the lower deadeyes on the channels/strops then fit the wire to them ensuring the length of each is the same. You can then proceed to adjust your shrouds/top deadeyes to the appropriate length.
Cheers
Steve
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hornet got a reaction from paul ron in Need tips on deadeyes rigging
I usually knock up a few of these deadeye holders or resize ones I have used on past builds. They are made from tie wire which is cut to the appropriate length. The ends are then bent and silver soldered together so as to hold two of the holes in the deadeye on either end - you could probably twist the wire instead of soldering it. Mount the lower deadeyes on the channels/strops then fit the wire to them ensuring the length of each is the same. You can then proceed to adjust your shrouds/top deadeyes to the appropriate length.
Cheers
Steve
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hornet reacted to Dr PR in Pewter Cannons
A fairly simple way to modify the cannons is:
1. Find some round head pins of the appropriate diameter for the cascabel. Fabric stores carry a variety of pin sizes. Clip the pin about 1/16" / 2mm from the head.
2. File off the projections on the rear of the cannon and round off the back end.
3. Drill a hole in the back end where the cascabel should be. The hole/drill bit diameter should be the same or slightly larger than the diameter of the pin. The metal is soft so you can do this with a pin vise or motor tool.
4. Glue the shaft of the pin into the hole in the cannon. Use a glue that will adhere to metals. I would use Duco Cement or a two-part epoxy.
5. Paint with satin black paint.
Note: Don't try to solder the pins into the holes. Some of these fittings are cast from low melting point metals, and the whole cannon will melt into a puddle if you heat it very much.
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hornet got a reaction from mtaylor in It's not going well, Lady Nelson
Might I suggest you invest in some planking screws. They make a fiddly job much easier.
https://www.modelerscentral.com/modeling-tools/hand-tools/holding/planking-screws-p12/
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hornet got a reaction from Canute in It's not going well, Lady Nelson
Might I suggest you invest in some planking screws. They make a fiddly job much easier.
https://www.modelerscentral.com/modeling-tools/hand-tools/holding/planking-screws-p12/
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hornet got a reaction from DARIVS ARCHITECTVS in Some beginners questions on deck planking
Hi all
A trick/ technique that I use is to trace the 'false deck' onto paper and then draw up planks and planking pattern on it before beginning. Experiment by drawing up a shift pattern, say 4 or 5. If you are not happy with how it looks, flip over and redraw on the other side. You can then track/ check off on this pattern as you plank your deck. The image below is of the deck of my current build (HMS Bounty). Note that I have written the plank pattern near the bow and ticked off each plank as it is fitted. This technique may not be for everyone, but it helps me
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hornet got a reaction from mtaylor in Block Tumbler Help
Mine is made of a piece of poly pipe with 2 end caps. It has a four bladed sandpaper impeller. Fitted with a motor that is hooked up to a variable speed switch box.
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hornet got a reaction from Gregory in Block Tumbler Help
Mine is made of a piece of poly pipe with 2 end caps. It has a four bladed sandpaper impeller. Fitted with a motor that is hooked up to a variable speed switch box.
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