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mugje

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Posts posted by mugje

  1. Planking process happening :)

     

    I apply the caulking with a 2B pencil, and clamp the planks with pins. By the way...the provided wood is horrible. The tanganyika planks are really brittle and rough.

     

    When the deck planking is finished, you don't sand the deck right? But scrape it with a knife or something like that?

     

     

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  2. 19 hours ago, Heinrich der Seefahrer said:

    No I don't find some troubles - less circumstances will be in your build if you copy the decks part drawing (simply on transperent paper) and work on the brench with this - seperated from the kit. So you can cut the planks to length and shape - after this you than add it onto the plywood. 

    Please remember to lay. some soft cloth between ships hull and stand. This due to the pressure of adding the decks planking that may harm the wounderfull coppering.

     

    The waterway can be simply build by some 1/4 circle of wood bent to the decks outline shape by hot water steam - please remember to add the scubbers by drilling through the hullside and paint it with some plumbum like metal grey. Succubers are one of the very often neglected little details that are able to push your build in the first class row. :)

    If you have a look into Mondfeld Historical Modelshipbuildung there are several examples of scubbers to find - most important is to add one pair (port and starboard!). Placed in the line of the pumps and on tne deepest point of the deck (rectangular to the ships central line) they will be located right.

    Thank you for all your help and tips, they are really helpful! It's nice to see people that help beginners. It so important to keep motivated. I immediately ordered the book from Mondfeld on amazon, so that is something to look on for. Like i said...i don't know if i'm gonna modify or add a lot, because there's is so much to learn just building the kit. Sometimes i lose sight of all the information haha.

  3. 19 hours ago, Duncbe said:

    If you want to get fancy with your planking you could try a three or four butt shift planking. Or do the plans show this already? 1234114320_ButtShiftPlanking.png.d021686869f43bc902b8f8f5b9f2ed56.png

    Yes the plans provide this already, so that's nice. I see that you build the some older Caldercraft kits. I assume there are not instructions in the manual to plank in three butt shift system?

     

    IMG_20190730_144727594.jpg

  4. Ah tnx for the explanation. It sounds like an easier progress to do the main planking first and then mount the deck on the ship.

    Well, with the next ship i will keep that in mind. I had to first find out what the waterway was haha, but now i get it.

    Caldercraft does not have a waterway in there plans, so i don't know if i'm gonna do that for now. It's offcourse more authentic to install

    one, but i'll think about it.

    The pattern of planking is explained in the plans, so i can begin planking from the midline and don't see any troubles with that?

  5. 33 minutes ago, Heinrich der Seefahrer said:

    Hello Peter,nice work you do! Ease remember to clean the copper by using isopropanol before giving it a clear layer of colour - due to varnish any fingerprints that will appear in some years on the copper. 

    And shouldn't the deck been planked before installing it due to lighter planking or are the manuals' advises like this?

     

    I wiped the copper plates clean with a mixture of vinegar and salt. Is isopropanol then still needed? And what do you mean with a clear layer of color? 

    To varnish the copper plates?

     

    And yes, in the manual they put the deck first on the ship and then planking it. Would it be better not to? (with the next ship :D)

  6. 14 hours ago, flyer said:

    ...or you could make your own, more realistic, stern fascia.

     

    Hey mugje, great work so far.

     

    I think that schooners and other small craft in Pickles time usually had a more elliptic stern, similar to what I tried with my Pickle.

     

    Have fun!

    Peter

    You have build a lovely Pickle Peter! Very clean work, something to aspire to.

    I will stick to the original stern fascia, i don't really want to do modifications on this ship.

    With my limited knowledge of ship building and  history, it's easyer to keep the building progress going.

     

    But thanks for your input :)

  7. First question right away. I'm happy how the copper plating turned out. And it's aging by day, i like that a lot!

    But there is some glue residue visible from the CA glue i used for the tiles. Now i read that you can wipe it off with some

    aceton? Does it also count for the dried glue like you see in on the pictures? and what is the best technique then? Any tips are appreciated! :D

    IMG_20190728_090348103.jpg

    IMG_20190728_090359773.jpg

  8. Hello! I already introduced myself a few weeks ago and thought that maybe a building log is a good thing, because it's my first build.

    So al the help is welcome! I'm from the Netherlands, so my spelling won't always be on point ;).

     

    I began this ship in 2015 but paused at the first planking stage. Life came in between and i didn't knew if i would continue this wonderful hobby.

    But recently i picked it right up where i left and addicted ever since. I'm now finished the second planking and plating the hull with copper plates.

    Yesterdag i spent the whole afternoon with cutting out the gunports. I didn't make use of the gunport pattern that was included because of the issues i had with installing them. So i just planked it with walnut strips and cut the ports yesterday out.

     

    My goal with this ship is to just make it right out of the box with practically no modifications, because i want first run through the whole practice of building a ship.

     

     

  9. Hello,

     

    I have a question about a paint that matches the same color as the copper plates from Caldercraft.

    I'm currently building the Pickle from Caldercraft and I'm busy with the coppering of the hull.

    In the building manual, Caldercraft advices the use masking tape at the waterline and paint a nice straight line between the waterline and the copperplates if you don't get a nice straight line with the plates itself ;).

    It looks great on the pictures in the manual so I think it's a great idea. But now I'm looking for the right color of the paint that matches

    the tile color. Maybe has someone here on the forum already did this with a good matching result?

    I'm curious what kind of brand and maybe paint number you used.

     

    Thank you in advance

  10. Hello I'm Ronald, 35 years and live in the Netherlands. I am a member for a while and I don't know if I already introduced myself, so here we go. The first time I checked in I began with the HM Pickle from Caldercraft, but life happened like with a lot of people and I lost sight of the wonderful hobby.

    But here we are again in 2019 and picked up where I left with the Pickle. Just finished the hull and now busy with installing the copper plates.

     

    So a short introduction, I don't post a lot of things but mainly read. But a introduction is always okay :)

     

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