slow2cool

Once again, many thanks for all the kind words and to those who hit the 'like' button.  Progress has been slow lately due to other commitments, so only a mini-update this week. 
 
Installing the sub-decking was straight forward:
 

 
 Took the opportunity to fill some of the dings in the hull using a two-part Epoxy putty (Milliput Terracotta) and she is finally ready for planking.
 

 
The instructions would have you just lay complete planks the length of the hull, from the chine up to the sheer. I tried that on one side and wasn’t happy, so ripped it all off again. Then I lined-off the hull using tick-strips in an attempt to do better by tapering planks fore and aft and having the same number of strakes throughout. Here is the lined-off hull:
 

 
So far, the tapering seems to be working quite well. I've been using a miniature plane to taper the planks and have to say, it beats the pants off sanding! Much easier and far less mess. The supplied planks are not wide enough to spile, so I will likely use some shorter plank lengths in addition to tapering, to cope with the bow curvature. I got as far as laying three strakes the second time around before I ran out of CA kicker – a real must for this process. So, it’s back on hold until I can pick up some more supplies.
 
More pics once substantial progress has been made with the planking.
 
 

John
You are doing some really great work. Looks like all your effort is paying off.
At the rate you are going your planking job is 1st rate.
Joe

What a difference a week can make! Awesome work as usual, Glenn.

Glenn,
You and your build... it's like a national treasure!! 
Absolutely stunning... 
I wish to had a chance to see your model once.

Cheers,
Matt

Mike,
 
The thickness you can overcome (if to thin) by glueing it on top of veneer/ very thin plywood. To thick, that can be sanded down. The wood. It's merely a matter of preference, you can get most kinds milled to request. Mick (Yamsterman) has an address in the UK where he get's his wood. It depends also on the amount you care to, or can spend on it. If the decks get stained ... it's merely the quality of the "look" of the wood after staining ...
 
Cheers

Several years ago I built model of a US Navy motor whaleboat at 1:32 scale. I wanted a wartime finish so I painted the decks navy deck blue instead of varnished as would have been the case during peacetime. Research indicated a foredeck caulked with white seam compound.
 
I first painted the entire deck white and then sanded the white paint off. The white paint of course stayed in the seams between the planks. I then "caulked" the seams with thread and sprayed on my deck blue. After the blue dried, I pulled out the thread leaving a white seam.
 
On my first try, the seam was too regular and too bold so I tried again with thinner thread and was happy with the result.
 
I did not plank this very small deck but sawed the seams into a piece of model aircraft plywood with a miniature table saw.
 
Roger Pellett

No Cathead (wish I knew your proper name, it seems a bit rude to keep calling you Cathead) you are absolutely right. There are loads of solutions to different problems and any/all suggestions are welcome.
 
Having said that I have just had a bath (not that anyone wants to know that!) and come back to look at the painted surface and I have to say I am far from impressed. The problem with MSW and all the experts and advice is that all of a sudden you become like them !!!!
 
I am not at all happy with what I see of my efforts thus far. Cathead you will be thrilled but I am now seriously considering this re-planking lark. Don't know what you think Karl because you managed with the kit as was ?
 
But, experts, what is the best wood for such narrow planking ? We are looking at 1/8th because it is an American kit which is 3. something mm for the Europeans which I simply refuse to be !! I did get some Manzonia before for my Lady Smith and that fairly decent. Any good? I will not get the size right for the laser lines whatever I do which is a bit of a pain but allowing for glue and slightly rough edges this aint going to happen anyway!
 
A lot of the walls and stuff are also planked in this kit much like others I have done so whatever I do has to be consistent. There was loads of planking to be done on the Robt. E. Lee I built which I do quite enjoy and the end result of that build looks one heck of a lot better than what I have in front of me now.
 
So guys, should I stick with Manzonia which is a wee bit wide but a good thickness or use something else ? HELP!

Apart from 'absolutely delightful', I don't know what to say!
 
John

John
You are doing some really great work. Looks like all your effort is paying off.
At the rate you are going your planking job is 1st rate.
Joe

Yes, Mike, I was talking about the toothed joints between deck panels, not the planking lines. Apologies for any confusion.
 
What about setting small metal pins into the bottom of any post/tab that's supposed to fit into the deck, then just drilling tiny holes into the new deck for those pins to fit into? Could be hard to get the alignment just right, but probably no harder than actually fully redrilling so many holes then shaping them properly.
 
Apologies if I'm overdoing the ideas;  my mother has the same habit of constantly offering advice even when unwanted; I get the solving-others'-problem gene from her.

I think you miss the point my friend. The planking lines are supposed to show although you have a very good point about some of the other 'joints'. Your suggestion might be brilliant for those. I think there are just too many square holes in this kit for your cunning plan to work but thanks for the suggestion. There is a lot to be said for scratchbuilding methinks but I am certainly not sure I could make as wonderful a model as your Bertrand!

Mike, if you think only a few of those seams will show, you could always consider hiding them under a few loads of cargo (barrels, boxes, bales). That's a long-standing model railroad tradition for hiding oddities in work; many layout buildings with vines creeping up the walls look that way to hide a flaw in the paint or siding!
 
If you decide to replank, those holes are a concern. Not knowing how the kit is set up, would it be easier to drill circular holes, then round the bottom of the posts or tabs that fit into them, rather than trying to square off lots of holes?

So far I have sealed the deck with sanding sealer less the talc and it has had two coats of brushed acrylic and it still needs another one. So far, the planking lines still show through. If it looks dreadful I am quite prepared to order some wood and re-plank but there are a lot of precut holes to redo. I wouldn't mind if they were circular but loads are square !! To be honest by the time the superstructure is on top there is not a huge amount of deck actually showing but we shall see. I might be really brave, take some pics and see what others think!

She's being built just like the full sized boat.  Beautiful.
 
Bob

beautiful work Glenn,
 
its getting more and more shape now....
 
Nils

Glenn,
 
Magnificent ...
 
Looking at her two question come to mind:
1. What's the "indent" from fore to aft on the topoutside
2. Looking at the mounted wheel, I get the feeling it is rather small compared to the housing you build around it, why such a height
 
Cheers

Very nice, Glenn - Heroine is looking better and better.  I especially like the last photo with the 'overseers' in the background.

Been following this for a while, the only thing that I can contribute is that I really need an "awestruck" button...

Hi Glenn,
 
              She is beautiful !!!!    You should be proud, I noticed you also have a couple of Moi overseeing her construction....
 
               If I can construct mine with half the precision you are showing, I will feel I'm doing something.
 
Keep up the wonderful work,  Keith

Hi Glenn
 
Oh wow. Damn, that's nice!
 
Seriously nice.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

That arch really does start to fill out her profile nicely.

Thanks Patrick, albert, Keith and Pat,
 
Keith, I look forward to seeing the sternwheeler!
 
 
 
This week I was finally able to get around to the top of the paddle box.  It's starting to look like a sidewheeler.
 
I was able to cut all the pieces for the arches in about 2 hours with the mill.  I don't know how long it would have taken by hand.  I milled some of the segments double.  These will be used on the planked side.  It saves a little time and adds a little strength.

 

 
Trying to keep everything square.  The notches in the cross pieces are for a thin plank that will be used to support the ends of the lateral planking.

 
Port side.

 

 

 
Starboard side.

 

 

I couldn't agree more Keith, I think the boat is quite magnificent.

Hi Cathead,
 
                   Absolutely grand build. I find it quite inspirational.....
 
 
 All the best,    Keith

Many thanks to Carl who has sorted my problem out.