Keith_W

This Mil Mi-24 helicopter is equally impressive. It is offered for 18,000 Euros from Helicrazy: http://www.helicrazy.com/crbst_86.html
 
That's right, you can buy a BMW with that kind of money. It is powered by a jet turbine engine. For those who don't know, real helicopters are not powered by piston engines because they generate too much vibration. Instead, a jet engine blows into a turbine, which spins the crankshaft and thus the rotor via a transmission. Most nitro powered helis use 2 stroke piston engines because of the sheer cost of manufacturing a scale miniature of a jet turbine. But if you want realism, a jet turbine is the only way.
 
Need to be convinced? Watch this video:
 

OK I know this is a ship model forum but surely most of us can appreciate other models as well
 
I thought I would post a link to this site: http://www.armortek.co.uk/index.html
 
Armortek makes 1/6 scale model tanks, fabricated from metal. Unfortunately, their production goes in runs, so once a kit is out of production, it is out of production. They are currently selling a British Mk. IV WW1 tank. Very impressive, but not as impressive as this:
 

 
... a 1/6 scale King Tiger, measuring 1.2m long and weighing 60kg. Here is a video of it in action. Note the realistic engine sound (which is computer controlled and responds to revs):
 

Hi Keith,
 
I've done photoetching for a couple of my models using the Micromark kit. It does work. However, I will say that doing your own photoetching will probably not result in parts that look like the commercial set that Brian showed. The commercial processes are different than the DIY kit, and from what I've been able to find, they are cost prohibitive.
 
But DIY PE is pretty finicky, involves several steps, and if you screw up one thing you practically have to start all over. You also need a drawing program, but the Micromark kit requires an inkjet printer, not a laser printer. I even gave up at one point as nothing was turnout out well. Then, I tried it again with a fresh outlook months later and had some pretty good success on small items.
 
And...well... I was going to direct you to my photoetch results on my Saginaw project, but I just went there and 2/3 of the photos are now missing, so that won't help.
 
Clare

Hello all, I did a search and did not come up with any results, so I thought I would start a thread.
 
Has anybody here tried making custom parts using photo-etch? I know that dafi has, so perhaps he would like to chip in.
 
I have done some googling to find out if it is possible to make parts for a ship I would like to build. The fittings that come with the kit are rather chunky and I have been thinking about how I would replace them. I think PE is the solution.
 
It is possible to do photo-etching at home, as per these links:
 

http://www.steelnavy.com/etching.htm
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm
 
... and you can buy your own PE kit here: http://www.micromark.com/micro-mark-pro-etch-photo-etch-system,8346.html
 
HOWEVER, it requires an investment in machinery (if you do not already have these): laser printer, fluorescent lamp, heat source, laminator. It also requires consumables, including some toxic chemicals, a glass plate, and so on. In the end, the investment sounds pretty substantial for making a small run of parts.
 
My next thought was to look at businesses that can do it for you. So far I have found a few:
 
http://www.ppdltd.com/web_site_3/page_1_intro.html
http://www.photo-etch.co.uk/page1/page6/page6.html
http://www.photofab.co.uk/
http://saemann-aetztechnik.de/
http://www.orbel.com/photo-etched-precision-metal-parts
 
I have not looked in detail to see if any of these companies would be happy to do a one-off project. It appears that as a minimum, you need to supply your artwork in vector form, either AutoCAD format or CorelDRAW format. A pixel manipulator (like Photoshop) will not work. Does anybody know of any free CAD programs or vector drawing programs that can output to AutoCAD format or CorelDRAW format?

Not sure it this helps, but I used to do my own photoetching with supplies used for making pc boards.  Here is a link to an old article, on the technique, that I did for FineScale Modeler Magazine
 
http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/photoetch.pdf
 
Paul

She's beautiful, coming along really nicely. BTW the earlier photos of your build log are missing.

Despite a long absence, it can be reported that CaptainSteve hath not shirked hardship and misfortune. Nor hath he been vanquished by that most persistent of his foes, Stoopidity.
Indeedeth, he hath rallied this past fortnight; and he hath thrown himself, time and again, into the planking melee. One by one, they didst fall to his unceasing onslaught. Until, finally, but two didst remain – the Shutter Planks.
 
“They be over-sized,” didst Bob the Builder write. “You shalt cutteth them to fit.”
“Hah!!” our hero snorted, in reply.
“Surely, you jest !! They be too small, and the gap doest be humungous !!
Indeeth Bob, I doest herewith removeth thee from my Christmas Card list!!”
 
For, verily, and to his dismay, CaptainSteve didst findeth that, for him at leasteth, a large gap was to remain. Much wailing and gnashing of teeth didst ensue.
 


 
Thusly, our hero didst embarketh forth to maketh his very own Shutter Planks – one Port and one Starboard.
“Methinks that stealers shalt also be required,” he didst declare.
 


 
Indeedeth, our Hero didst need to trieth many a time ‘ere satisfaction were to be attained. Verily, at one point, the four planks from the gap to the Sheer didst popeth out from the Rabbet !!
(And, Oh My, didst much wailing and gnashing of teeth and uttering of Ye Olde sailing language ensue on THAT day !!!)
But, finally, he didst meeteth with success.
 


 
But he didst not rest upon his laurels. Casting his one good eye over the planking, CaptainSteve realized that something was missing.
 
“But something be missing," sayeth he. "'Tis good, but a final touch be required."
Thusly, didst he turneth his attentions unto the transom, whereupon he didst cuteth planks to fit, distressing each in turn. Then, to capeth things off, a Docker Plank was madeth.
 


 
 
Some trimming, a final touch-up of the painting, and with that, the planking was done!!
 
 

Pete and others, it is far from my intention to bash Euromodel. Like I said before, I am thinking about building a Euromodel kit next. Thanks to your excellent build logs and what I can see on MSW, I can gain some insight into what's in the kit and what isn't.
 
I don't buy into the scratch building argument. If one were prepared to invest a lot of time and expense buying third party parts, you could raise a kit from Artesania to the level of a Caldercraft. In fact, that is precisely what Canoe21 is doing with his AL Victory.
 
For me, an expensive kit should mean that it comes with more in the box. I was looking at the Friedrich Wilhelm and thinking that I would have to buy a third party boat, anchors, gun carriages, eye hooks, lanterns, and wood. And maybe learn to carve because it appears as if the horseman is printed on plywood, instead of a cast part. Learning of this fills me with disappointment, because this is not what I would expect in a premium priced kit. I can honestly tell you that I was looking forward to buying a Friedrich Wilhelm until I learnt this. I am still keeping an open mind though - which is why I am asking if I am missing something. 
 
If the Royal William comes with 5kg of metal decorations, and pre-tapered masts - then I can see where the money has gone and I would be prepared to buy that kit. I don't mind the expense, as long as I know that I am getting more if I pay more. 

Sorry, missed your question. I recommend you treenail after it comes off the building jig.
 
You need to drill out the holes for the treenails. I have seen two methods on MSW to do this. The first is what I did - drill them out from the inside. The problem is that you have to keep your drill perpendicular to the frames at all times - not easy when they are curved like that. 
 
The second method is to place your model in front of a light source so that you can see the frames through the hull, and then drill the holes from the outside. I saw this on someone else's build log (might be Alde's?). This might be easier. 

Oh, it's so kind of you to offer assistance Keith! Thans a lot. Yet, I will try to solve my problem within next two weeks. Already have a vague idea, hope to figure it out soon. Will keep you posted and thanks again!
Regards
 

Pete, I would like to thank you for going through the trouble of providing the interpretative files which are found on Euromodel's website. I am researching my next build and I would like to tackle either the Friedrich Wilhelm or the Royal William. I am a little disappointed by some of their fittings, e.g. the lanterns and the windows - but there is no reason why I can't scratch build them myself. Well, apart from severe lack of skill, I suppose. It would be nice if these parts were photoetched instead of cast metal, IMO. A photoetched window frame looks much more realistic, and there is no easy way for modellers to make their own photoetched parts. 

My Byrnes disc sander has arrived. I can't believe the size of the motor on this thing. To put it in perspective, my Sherline 4410 lathe arrived at the same time. The motor on the Byrnes is larger than the Sherline!

I have had a few Dremel rotary tools in the past and the thing that was the most helpful is the flexible extension with a place to hang it near the workspace.  This flex ext was much more important than the individual model.

A new version of the Amati Prince will be released one day...
 

 
 
Just need Amati to cut my new designs.....

My Byrnes disc sander has arrived. I can't believe the size of the motor on this thing. To put it in perspective, my Sherline 4410 lathe arrived at the same time. The motor on the Byrnes is larger than the Sherline!

As far as possible, I try to avoid coming across as a smartass. But this time, I really thought that something interesting was amiss. I knew for sure it was not copper plated, and it was my interest in history that lead me to question him, rather than any desire to show him up. To his credit, he took it really well. All the theories postulated above seem plausible to me, so thank you gents. 

LOL....oops, the tour guide didn't know what he was telling you.
I love all the pictures you put up from the Batavia. You are giving me a detailed tour of what is located on the other side of the planet.
Thank you.
Marc

Here are more.
 

 
View of the curved timbers at the stern.
 

 
Where toledo worm had eaten holes in the hull, Dutch carpenters mended the damage with patches, as shown here.
 

 
Scarph joint.
 

 
I asked the tour guide what these little holes represented. He said that the hull was copper plated. I pointed out that the Batavia was launched in 1629, and that copper plating was only invented in 1750. He said that he will discuss this with the curator. Anybody know what these holes may represent? They seem too regular to be due to marine life.
 

 

 

 
Pictures of the inside of the hull, looking towards the stern.
 

 

 

 
Various artefacts recovered from the ship.
 

 

 
A victim of murder. Note the hatchet mark on the skull.

I was going to create a new thread when I remembered there was an existing thread on the Batavia, so I decided to upload photos here instead. So here goes.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In England at least, some ships were sheathed with an expendable / renewable thin layer of planks. Sometimes "noxious compounds" were put under the planks. It was fairly effective at keeping worms out of the real planking but did nothing to inhibit the growth of weed during long jouneys. Some ships returned from years long trips to the tropics trailing long streamers of seaweed which slowed their speed to a crawl.
 
There were limited experiments with closely spaced big headed nails

I remember reading somewhere early methods of anti fouling involved the use of lead (or other non-ferrous) nails.
 
Andy

Wonderful pictures, thank you!
 
"I asked the tour guide what these little holes represented. He said that the hull was copper plated. I pointed out that the Batavia was launched in 1629, and that copper plating was only invented in 1750. He said that he will discuss this with the curator. Anybody know what these holes may represent? They seem too regular to be due to marine life."
 
Second wooden planking as food for the worms?
 
XXXDAn

I don't know how I missed this thread, but i'm going to start following it now!
 
I grew up in Perth as well, and have been to the Batavia museum many times. There is a very nice model of the Batavia in the museum. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of it. Maybe another West Australian can oblige.
 
You are doing a great job with this model. Thank you for posting!

Here are more.
 

 
View of the curved timbers at the stern.
 

 
Where toledo worm had eaten holes in the hull, Dutch carpenters mended the damage with patches, as shown here.
 

 
Scarph joint.
 

 
I asked the tour guide what these little holes represented. He said that the hull was copper plated. I pointed out that the Batavia was launched in 1629, and that copper plating was only invented in 1750. He said that he will discuss this with the curator. Anybody know what these holes may represent? They seem too regular to be due to marine life.
 

 

 

 
Pictures of the inside of the hull, looking towards the stern.
 

 

 

 
Various artefacts recovered from the ship.
 

 

 
A victim of murder. Note the hatchet mark on the skull.

Hi Hans, I have uploaded my pictures into this thread: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5315-batavia-shipwreck-photos/