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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Not from what I've been able to see. It appears to be a complete hoop bolted to the stem with the bowsprit put through it. It's clearer on this build. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/3958-hm-colonial-cutter-mermaid-by-olliechristo-finished-modellers-shipyard/page/24/?tab=comments#comment-204180 Rick
  2. Rick01
    Not from what I've been able to see. It appears to be a complete hoop bolted to the stem with the bowsprit put through it. Rick
  3. Rick01
    There's a little gizmo called (I think) a spectacle. Basically an iron hoop going round the bowsprit and bolted to the prow. You can just make it out on this contemporary model https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/image/10960-p1000982s/ Rick
  4. Rick01
    Should have done what I did. Threw my hands up in disgust over the use of ply, dug around in the workshop found a couple of nice off-cuts and crafted a nice solid stem, false keel and stern post. I did have two or three goes at it but I'm much happier with the result. Rick
  5. Rick01
    Perfect example! Rick
  6. Rick01
    😢
  7. Rick01
    That definitely needs doing. The kit plans bear little resemblance to the diagram King drew. Rick
  8. Rick01
    I made 3 x .6mm holes in each knee, left off the belaying points in the instructions and used the pins instead - made more sense to me. I also occasionally look at it and wonder if I should have fitted a "horse" for the boom control instead of the fixed eyebolt the instructions use. There is plenty of evidence for the use of this for small vessels during this period. Check this one of mine, it's a slightly later build (1817) but a similar size vessel. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15624-topsail-schooner-enterprize-by-rick01-scale-148-first-wooden-scratch-build-finished/page/2/ Rick
  9. Rick01
    Suggestion - add a few holes for belaying pins in the knees, it's surprising how many belaying points are actually needed when you look at a full rigging plan. Otherwise looking good. Not the best shot but you can just make them out here (top right section). Don't forget the binnacle that you can also just make out in the original plan. Rick
  10. Rick01
    👍 Rick
  11. Rick01
    Looks really good Jay - nice solution to your problem and the cup burr has worked well. I've actually only had one 4 week period in my life without cats (with my surname it's not really surprising) and that was when we migrated to Aus. by ship. My latest addition is someone else's reject rescued from the local pound, his only problem is that he talks constantly if I'm not around so I'm in immediate trouble after spending any time in the workshop 1/ with my wife because of Benny; and 2/ With Benny for not being where he could find me! He's learnt pretty quickly where he shouldn't go but that doesn't stop the occasional foray just to show who's boss. 🙂 Rick
  12. Rick01
    Having been bossed by 12 cats over my adult lifetime there's one thing I have learnt and that's the fact that you just have to go with the flow with these guys.They all seem to have their own ideas of fun, all with one common theme "pay attention to me NOW" 😉 Luckily my workshop is not in the house and they are banned from it for their own safety - but really I can't imagine life without one or two hanging about to boss me around. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Don't start trying to clean up until you've finished the complete side. I found that going down that route I cleaned an area then planked some more then cleaned again - including the previously cleaned area!! A bir counter productive. 🙂 Rick
  14. Rick01
    Shouldn't be a problem - you can display it one side one week, t'other side the next week. 😉 If you copper it will you also "weather" the copper plates? I feel that shiny copper plating may look a little odd . Rick
  15. Rick01
    You may need to translate that Cabbie although I think Google will know the word. 😉 Rick
  16. Rick01
    You may find the walnut isn't flexible enough - it does tend to splinter easily. The decking timber however can almost be tied in knots if you soak it long enough. Rick
  17. Rick01
    You'll need a lot of soaking in water and I'd use something like the .6 mm decking in 2 or 3 layers to handle it. Rick
  18. Rick01
    This is it. It's a bit left over from an old fish tank, 5mm glass 300 mm long and about 75mm wide. I occasionally spray the reverse white to help seeing what I'm doing on it which is why it looks a bit battered. This end has a couple of bits glued on at right angles, very useful when setting up things like hold/hatch covers. You can also use it to mix paints etc. and it cleans very easily using a razor blade as a scraper. Rick
  19. Rick01
    I use a plate of glass when edge joining. Nice and flat and very easy to slide a razor blade along to free the planks when the glue sticks them down! You can also easily clean it up after and re-use. Rick
  20. Rick01
    Funny but I was just about to sit down and make a comment about the "flying" sails having remembered a short discussion I had on this site very early in my build. When you look at the watercolours where she's under sail you can see that the gaff topsail is flying - that is unattached to the mast other than by a hoist (think that's the correct term) and in sketch 6 similarly the upper square sail. This really makes the job easier (unless you are going to mount sails) as both yards would only be hoist when actually using those sails (anyway that's my understanding as the word flying indicates that the yard is unattached to the mast). Basically it probably needs a little extra research on how these were hoist and where a couple of extra blocks would be attached to the mast head to handle them. Any other people following this build have any ideas? Rick
  21. Rick01
    Hell of a load of work to study there. 5 and 6 seem to show the flying gaff plus an upper square sail pretty clearly - it's surprising she didn't topple over with all that canvas spread. I'm looking forward to your finished item, even though it means I may have to re-model mine. Most of what you've found just didn't seem to be around when I was doing my research! Rick
  22. Rick01
    I ended up using a small drop of superglue on the brass then coating the whole thing with a good dose of a clear water base satin varnish. I seems to help secure the straps (just don't put any pressure on them afterwards 😉 ). As to Dockyard supervisors how did you manage to go so long without another boss? I also lost mine April last year but could only go six months before another applied for the job. Rick
  23. Rick01
    I used a wash of PVA glue on the cable eventually to get it looking reasonably authentic. It's quite frustrating otherwise. Rick
  24. Rick01
    Also brand of good work clothes!! Let them work out our vernacular Cabbie - we never get concessions over their misuse of the language. 😉 Rick
  25. Rick01
    Or do as I did - ditch the ply keel (along with most of the rest of the ply) make a solid false keel, cut the rabbets and install at first planking. This was only my second build but I didn't find making solid timber parts that hard even though my woodworking lessons were pre "Cuba Crisis" . Over in Aus. between local natives and Javanese pirates our survey vessels did suffer the occasional bit of "battle damage", Rick

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