davyboy

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thanks Dave, can you tell me what the height is  midships between the deck and capping rail top on your model?  I’ve been looking at the scale figure on the plan and the capping rail top on my Cheerful appears higher in relation to a 1:48 scale figure but I can’t figure out why. 🤔

 

B.E.

Hi B.E. I have 7/8th" approx. Difficult to be exact as shrouds,guns and guntackles are in the way. I can't get my vernier in so had to use 2 bits of wood and a pencil mark. Hope this is of use to you.

Dave 

Hi B.E. Thanks for that,I did think that 1/8th" square was about right for the swivel posts. The gun carriages were not too bad to scratch,I glued the carriage profile drawings to suitably dimensioned wood and cut them on my mill. Just a case then of slicing off the required number of sides,the rest was easy enough,just took a bit of time. The worst for me was making that tiny skylight,broke several window frames doing it 

The port shroud ratlines are done,now doing the stbd side. Not my favourite job as I've rheumatics in my right thumb and wrist and also the left. What with that and old mans shakes tying clove hitches with tweezers is not funny 😥   

I like your dish of goodies but you'll need a bigger one for the rest of the guns  

Dave 

Hi B.E. I too made jigs for both types of carriage. I scratch built mine and was very surprised how many separate parts there are,30 pieces altogether I think not counting gun tackle blocks. Never mind,you've only got 11 more to finish  Currently progressing the Topmast standing rigging but can't finalise the Topmast shrouds as I'll have to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds first (my pet hate) for easier access.

A question if I may,what dimension do you think should Swivel gun posts be,6" square,9" square ? I can't find any info in any of my books. I tried some 1/8th and 3/16" squ' (1/48th scale size) and prefer the former as it looks more realistic. As usual keep up your excellent work.

Regards,

Dave   

Hello Ed,

That second last photo WOW. Looking at that one could almost believe you are standing on the deck of the real ship. Wonderful work indeed.

Kind regards,

Dave 

Hi Stergios,

Assuming your mast cap is not yet glued on here's what I would do. Get a piece of wood of the same size as the masthead,sieze  your shrouds around that then just transfer them onto the masthead. No chance of doing any damage to the model then.

Dave 

A very nice Companionway BE,I take my hat off to you making working hinges for it.

I managed to cut out the fwd corner bits on my main hatch grating without doing any damage. Took quite a while after drilling 3/64" holes right  through the decking then filing out the pieces,luckily I have some very small square tapered Jewelers files 1mm x 80mm long to do this. 

regards,

Dave 

Hello Druxey and Dowmer thanks for your replies. I've another pair of faux sheave holes to drill now,will go for fore and aft.

Dave 

Masthead trucks usually had a sheave for flying a flag or pennant. Does anyone know what the sheave orientation was ? Fore and Aft or Athwartships. Thank you.

Dave 

Thanks for that info Moab. Looks like I'll be spending some money again

Dave  

18 minutes ago, wefalck said:

I may be stupid, but it isn't to me, sorry. Is the pin with the wire inside the tube and you form the sharp corners with it ? Perhaps also the term 'spin' is confusing, as it normally implies serveral, if not many turns.

Wefalk,perhaps I should have written bend the wire around the pin ensuring the two ends are inside the tube slot,silly me.

Dave

Hi Pavel,I'm not knocking Dremel but I bought a model 398 which came with kit of accessories 10 years ago. I found it very noisy and also having too much vibration and bulky. I have hardly used it at all. All my power tools except my bandsaw are Proxxon,quiet with no vibration. Maybe I bought a bad one,who knows,but once bitten twice shy so to say. BTW,I've no connection to the Proxxon company.

Dave

2 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Can you post a picture, Dave ? I don't seem to understand what you do with the tube, once you bent the wire around the pin etc.

Wefalk, I wrote "hold the wire with pliers and spin the tube" Sorry no pic,I thought this was self explanatory.

Dave

Hi Svein Erik.

What I did was get a piece of 3mm tubing,cut a slot about 10mm long drill a hole right through at 90° to the slot of the diameter I want the eye to be. Bent the wire around whatever pin,drill shank etc diameter to get the size of eye I wanted. Hold the wire with pliers and spin the tube. I can make dozens of eyebolts in a very short time. I have several of these for making different sized eyebolts. No need to butcher a pair of longnose pliers as has been suggested. Incidentally a spun up eyebolt holds much better than the single shank ones.

Dave

Hi Moab

Interesting,I wonder if it's an updated/reissued version of his book "Building the Wooden Walls" published by Conway in 1991. The design and construction of the 74 gun ship Valiant. I have this book,the contents sound very similar.

Dave  

Hi Stergios,here is a little cheating you can do. The shifting and standing backstays are the same size of rope,use a long enough piece and sieze them around the masthead thus you have two of your stays for each side. I would make separate breast backstays unless you can do or imitate a cut splice and fit them under the other 2 stays. There is nothing in Lees about serving these stays but that doesn't mean they were not,up to you there

Dave

Looking excellent as usual B.E.

What is your opinion about cutting out the 2 fwd corner sections on  the main grating which I'm thinking of doing. They were used to pass the Anchor Cable/s below when weighing or up onto the deck when preparing to drop Anchor. I've seen this on almost all period models. Perhaps of course this may not have been so on Cutters  but I don't see why not. I still have access to this area as the Boom (fitted) can be swung out and the lower Mast backstays slackened off and moved also,hmmm. Anyway,onwards and upwards.

Have a good weekend.

Dave 

Brian,as far as I was aware 20% VAT is the tax which I presumed is deducted. So what is basic cost ? Is that what they pay for things ? 16.67%...........So where does the other 3.33% go to,is that their profit margin 🤣 ? Glad I don't have to pay your iniquitous EU taxes,I left the UK a long time ago

Apologies Ronald for hi-jacking your post.

Dave 

I believe they recently increased their UK prices,probably haven't updated their site yet. All will be made clear when you hear from them.

Dave 

NO !!!! The Victory is priced at £890,just looked. 20% taken off that sum gives £712. Convert that to dollars and that is what you will pay plus carriage/postal costs. Anything you buy from them will be 20% less than the UK price plus postage as you are in the U.S. not an E.U. country. In fact,anything you buy from any E.U. country will have that countries V.A.T. discounted from their price. I often buy items from E.U. countries and do not pay their V.A.T. as Switzerland is not in the E.U. Hope this helps. Their price in $ is good I would say.

Dave 

Hi Ronald.the price in pounds includes 20% V.A.T. Deduct 20% from the U.K. price then do your conversion to U.S. dollars. The dollar price they quote is about right. British V.A.T is not charged on orders from outside the E.U.

Dave 

Lovely job B.E. she looks splendid  Just my opinion but I think painting the fashion pieces would enhance her appearance.

Moved the long guns to the second gunports,I like it. A minor problem is how to disguise the holes where the guns were pinned to the deck,I've got a couple of ideas on that. I now have space to fit a pair of swivels each side fwd which I'll likely do.

Regards and I look forward to the next phase of your build

Dave  

Good evening B.E.

The problem with moving the windlass aft slightly is that you only have around 1/8" to play with. To move it any further aft requires also repositioning the fwd grating further aft. In any case,with the height of the Bowchaser Guns and Carriages the breech of the Port Gun Barrel would still impact on the bowsprit (it does,just proved that) which cannot be raised. I'm moving mine aft to the next port. Jeer Bitts ? Did you mean the hand winch  

In reality I expect they towed the Ships Boat.

I agree about swivels,would almost certainly have been fitted. Looks like I may have some retrofitting to do 

Regards,

Dave 

Very nice job B.E. I would advise cutting the fashion pieces flush with the top rail now,I didn't on my model and broke one of them off needless to say  

I'm currently finishing off the lower mast rigging. I'm seriously thinking of moving the bow guns aft one gunport. Apart from the fact that the port gun would smash into the bowsprit and/or the post knee on recoil,both guns would have to be moved when dropping or raising the anchors. They both obstruct the run of the anchor cables to the windlass. The three Cutter models on the NMM website have these ports empty as does the one that was in the Science Museum of which I've a photo that I took 11 years ago.

Kind regards,

Dave   

Richard you are correct.

Just tried to watch it,UK only I'm afraid  I can get some UK television programmes here on the internet so will watch the next part next week. 

Dave 

Jim,I was a "crabfat"no pussers hard for us. But,try telling a "Dhobi wallah"not to starch and iron your "shreddies" along with your K.D. shorts and shirts was often a waste of time. Not so 'comfy'. 😢😢

Dave