davyboy

23 hours ago, J T Lombard said:

Glenn:

Can you point to the portion of the instructions that require the brass strips you are looking for?

regards

J Lombard

Rudder pintle and gudgeon straps I would say,certainly required when I scratch built my Cheerful.

Dave 

Hi David,

You may find this of interest :- Google  The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship. This will take you to the website of The San Francisco Maritime Park Association, there they have Steeles' work. You want the asterisked chapters of 208,209,210 and 211,numbered drawings and names of the numbered rigging and sail items are there. Should be of great assistance to you. OK, these appertain to a 20 gun ship but the names are the same for all ships. This book covers everything as the title says.

A lot of reading there to keep you out of mischief for a while 

Dave   

Hi David,definitely do it again,that deadeye gap does not look good. Anyway,it will give you some practice     There are a couple of

books on rigging that I recommend to you. James Lees Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 and Karl Heinz Marquardts'

Eighteenth Century Rigs and Rigging. Second hand online booksellers usually have them in stock. Either is worth having,the first being the best.

Dave 

Hi David,

The distance between deadeyes should be appproximately 3 times the diameter of a deadeye. 

Dave 

Good evening Maurice,you have made a beautiful job on your Alert. All your research has indeed paid dividends. I look forward to following your next build,another

Cutter or something more exotic 

I've just spent much of the past week building a Capstan for my Speedwell,had a pig of a job making the spindle. I don't have a lathe so had to make do with using

dowel,no choice. However much scraping and sanding I eventually got a passable round to build upon. There are a surprising number of parts to make if you count

all the wood parts never mind all the other things,bolts,pawls etc. The ten bars I'll leave 'til much later. 

Regards,

Dave 

Hi David,

Skip what is in the instructions and make them as I wrote as that is the correct method. It's also easier and neater,you would have 8 loops to make taking more space on the masthead. 

I do my shroud siezing like Pat says around a suitable sized dowel. I thread a needle with the siezing line and pass it through one of the legs at the top then take around ten turns downwards about both legs. I then pass the thread between the legs at one end of the siezing then over the siezing and through between the other legs doing so 2 or 3 times. Finally pass the needle & thread through the middle of that,apply some glue (not CA) when dry clip off. You're then good to go. This last bit sounds complicated but is dead easy  to do.

Dave 

Hi David,

I assume you are referring to the shrouds. These were made up in pairs by doubling a suitable length of rope leaving enough lenght to tie in the deadeyes. The centre portion was normally served then the two legs lashed together leaving a loop sufficient to fit over the mast head. They were always fitted in the following sequence :- first pair starboard,second pair port,third pair starboard and so on. 

Hope this answers your query,have fun.

Dave 

Mark,if you have a copy of Marquardts' Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging Davis's "The Proportion of the Rigging" tables are printed

in the appendix section pages 307 to 328. If you don't have a copy maybe your local Library could help.

Hope this may be of help to you.

Dave 

19 hours ago, stuglo said:

what no "broon" !!
 

LOL,when I lived in Northumberland many years ago it was called "newkie broon" or more usually "Lunatic Soup". Visited the Scottish and Newcastle brewery once and looked inside a vat of the brew fermenting,80 odd thousand gallons of it 😵 😵 Heady stuff.

Dave 

Hi Wahka,

Many builders change the 2nd planking for another wood. Pear is indeed an excellent planking timber and readily available in Europe in

sheets or milled planks and not too expensive. It also has very little grain showing. Cherry and Maple are also suitable timbers.

As far as historically incorrect goes most period ships were planked with oak which is not really suitable for modelling purposes at all. BTW,there is

no such thing as stupid questions on MSW,that's how we all learn "how to do it" correctly

Kind regards,

Dave 

That is an interesting painting but I suspect that they were carrying out some repair work on the hull. Not only did coppering prevent a shipworm infestation but also prevented the growth of various types of marine vegetation. Copper is I believe poisonous to plants.

Dave 

Glenn,make your own. Sand down a piece of Pearwood and mix the dust into a thick paste with sanding sealer or model aircraft dope. You are then good to go.

I did this and it worked perfectly and is virtually invisible.

Dave 

7 minutes ago, TBlack said:

1mm = .47 inches; 1/32" = .45 inches. If you're not too fussy, you can buy 1/32" stock pre-cut. Cherry is a good choice for a darker hull, or Chuck P. sells 1/32" Alaskan Yellow Cedar for a lighter hull.

Tom

Ahem !!!!!! 1mm is 0.0394".  1/32" is 0.0312". 

Dave 

Hello Doris,

These are the tackles for the Top Ropes which were used to lower the Topmasts. They were hooked to the top rope pendants which ran through sheaves in the heel of the Topmast. These pendants started from an eyebolt in the Lower Mast cap running through one of these sheaves up to a block on the opposite side of the cap then down to the tackles. There is a very good illustration of this in Lee's Masting and Rigging book (page 55). Also in R.C. Andersons 17th Century Rigging,drawing #13 items 166,167 and 168. Hope this helps with your wonderful model build.

Dave  

Hi Matt,welcome to MSW.

Dave 

Hi Maurice,very very nice indeed,super job👍. I look forward to the continuation next year.

I had a rethink on my Speedwell POB. Didn't like the filler blocks fwd of the front bulkhead so they were chiseled out. Made the upper

parts of the bollard timbers and 4 hawse timbers from pear and fitted them. Had to do some "surgery" on the fwd bulkhead and part of

the lower filler blocks. Looks very much better. It was quite a job making these parts with a fretsaw,razor saw and files

Regards and I wish you a Happy New Year.

Dave 

I use medium grade aluminium oxide paper which gives very fine sawdust from the wood I'm using. This I mix to a paste with sanding sealer,works well and there's no alteration of the wood colour. Very useful for filling minor gaps in hull planking,if you don't paint it's virtually invisible.

Dave 

Hi Srodbro,may I suggest you PM Jim Lad who is one of our mods. He lives in Sydney and is also a volunteer at the Maritime museum there. I'm

sure he will be able to give you any info you require. Enjoy your cruise,

Dave 

Greg,

Doris is still working on her Royal Katherine. Can be seen on the czech forum :- modelforum.cz  Now has the lower masts stepped and rigging started.  I wonder

why she stopped posting here on MSW.

Dave 

Opened it no problem here in Switzerland.

Dave 

Good evening Maurice,

That's one of the problems with kits unfortunately. Scratch is the way forward  Your idea of using 6 mm stock looks good to me anyway. I was very surprised to see what was provided in the kit for eyebolts and rings  and those ghastly cast cannon,oh dear. Love your Alert print from the Science Museum by the way. I was in their shop 12 years ago hoping to replace a print of HMS Prince I bought in 1974 but was told they didn't sell prints anymore.  Guess they must have started again.

Dave 

You really need silver solder for joining brass wire. Ordinary solder is useless for this.

Dave 

Hi André,

Welcome on board MSW enjoy the voyage.

Dave 

Hi Maurice,

As usual lovely workmanship. Great job on the replacement catheads and sheaves,I like the idea of using plastic rod for them. Wish I'd thought of that on my Cheerful,I used dowels for all the sheaves. A pita as the smallest ones kept splitting when drilling .

Regards,

Dave    

Hi Mark,

When I made a 90° scraper from a Stanley blade to cut the rebate on my current build I did the following. On the non cutting edges I used a small 1000 grit sharpening stone to round them down. Worked a treat,no marks on the keel.  

Dave