davyboy

Screw steering device, but without screws.

Parts before installation on the hull.

The propeller shaft brackets are assembled.

Brazing of propeller shaft brackets.

Now we need to install the ship's propeller steering device.
 
 
Marking the directions of the propeller shaft lines.

Good morning:
 

The hull, why do you think about color ?

After a long break, we started again on Mary.
The fore castle is painted, but the upper part was not really successful I thought. Too high and too green.

So the height was adjusted.

And repainted.

Better, I think.

Time to start on the 2 cannons in the fore castle. With special thanks to @henrythestaffy for the 3D printed cannons,much appreciated.
(The brass cannons upper left are fore the Brandenburger yacht)

there will be little to see of the carriages. So spend i little time on the details.

Make wheels
Use the crosscut saw to saw thin pieces. so that you can then knock out wheels across the grain.

The barrels will  be glued on later.


A stair on both the sides is too much
Then the stair to the upper deck must be in the middle. And that is just before the entrance (arrow).

So from the lower deck a staircase on the starboard side. And to the upper deck a staircase on the port side.
The error in the planking will be invissible later

I wouldnt recommend doing that.  Best to start with the wales as they establish the run of planking above and below them.  If you start with the ports it is all to easy to establish the incorrect run of planks.   Once the wales are established,  Line off the hull below it....or plank the hull above it and between the ports.  But lining off is the best practice regardless.
 
See the many tutorials posted on this site.
 
Chuck

Hello to all the Ship Builder's around the world.
 
Time for me to drop anchor and build another ship "HMS Sirius" (approval from the Admiral has been gained) after nearly 5 years away from the Shipyard.
This will be my first Scratch build of a wooden ship. The first being a Kit of the HMB Endeavour (build log on this site).
 
The Sirius has held much interest to me, it is part of the Colonization story of Australia - my birth country.
This ship is going to be somewhat interesting to construct. Details of the ship is lacking, but this does not deter me to take on the task.
To my knowledge, no Kit or AOTS book is available. However, in saying this I have gathered material & information over the past 5 years to which I will refer to during the build process.
The one defining piece of material (which I now have) is the "Berwick (1781) - Technical Drawing" ZAZ5405 held at the Royal Museums Greenwich. The plan, as I was informed: "As far as is known, ZAZ5405 is the only original drawing we hold of the ship you are planning to model".
 
She was built in 1780 for trade with the Baltic States. She had a displacement of 511 tons.
Originally, she was named the HMS Berwick, an armed store ship, but prior to its departure for NSW she underwent refitting to be a 6th rate at the Deptford Yard and in 1786 renamed the "Sirius" - after the major star in the Southern sky. She carried 16 guns.
Sirius was selected to be the flag ship for the first Fleet (11 ships) - the fleet that carried the troops and convicts to Sydney. She was commanded by Captain John Hunter.
The fleet left Portsmouth on 13 May 1787, and arrived at Port Jackson on 26 January 1788. Sirius carried most if not all of the first fleet's administrators including the Governor Arthur Phillip and Major Robert Ross commander of the marines responsible for guarding the convicts in the colony.
On 19 March 1790 Sirius was wrecked on the reef at Norfolk Island while landing stores. With the settlement still on the brink of starvation this was a major catastrophe as it left the colonists with only one ship.
 
So, into the shipyard I go.
 
Dave Row

A small update😉
Just channel, connection streghtened by metal pins, and 120 +  deadeyes .
And I´m working on the belfry.
 
 








 

Actual step of built
:

A short update:

Would it be possible to get the handbook as a pdf file? The shipping to switzerland is 3 times the cost of the book...

I don't think it's too much of a stretch to say that this is shaping up into one of the finest Viking longships we've seen being modeled here.

Hello,
and thank you for all the likes.
The two bulkheads at the bow and stern cost me a lot of nerves. You have nothing to lean on. It's all free floating. But now it's done. Here the one at the bow.


And here the one at the stern.

This one was a lot more complicated, because it has to hold also the rudder. When I dryfitted them, they fit all perfect. But when you get a little glue on them, nothing fits. 😐
So all out and try again. The lower parts you would't see later, so I'm here a little more generous with the seat.


And here the carpenters from the Tiger have a look what I'm doing so all the day

 
 

Post 59
Carronades
Harpy carried a complement of  (16) 32 pounder carronades.

3661a
I like to set up a sort of production line for carronade assembly, all the constituent parts in separate containers.
Before I get to that part I need to decide what position I prefer the carronades to be set.

3664a
There are three options, run-out, inboard (run-in), and  mid-way.

3665a

3662a

0070
I quite like the Run-in position which I think I will use for most of the guns, with a couple of examples of the other settings.
I am thinking I could modify the slides to allow  movement of the carriages.

3667a
At this early stage I have noticed that the elevating screws are subject to breaking when removing the supporting fret.
I had three break but they are easily drilled and fitted with a blackened pin.
I used a No11 scalpel blade for the cutting and found that  cutting the elevation screw first worked best for me.
 
B.E.
26/03/2025

I would like to thank Gerard Delacroix for the advice and drawings he gave me for the construction of the model.

Good morning ☺️

Thanks Ron, my old Pentax doesn't seem to be responding to adjustments so I've ditched it in favour of the i-phone which gives a more representative colour match.
@ Rusty - Thanks for looking in Rusty, hope things are good with you.
 
Post 58
Rings and things
A stage I can’t put off any further, the bulwark fixings for the gun tackles.
Some 88 pieces are required to equip the gunports, all to be chemically blackened.

044
Etched eyes are provided for both side tackles and breeching, altho’ the breechings should really be ring bolts, something I have modified on every build I have done. Adds to the work but the look for me is so much better.

041
I used the kit provided eyes for the tackle fixings, and Amati fine eyebolts and 2mm brass rings for the breeching ring bolts.

3643a
Along with the ironwork there are pin racks and cleats to fit.

3653a
As a contrast I decided to leave the cleats  as varnished plain wood.

3648a

3657a

3655a

3658a
Sucks up a lot of time attending to the detail, but she’s starting to look more shipshape now.
Been working close to four months on this build, more time than I initially imagined to reach this stage given the  amount of  pre-cut laser parts.
The next stage is likely to be even more time consuming, so Harpy is providing a lot of entertainment for the money.
 
B.E.
25/03/2025.
 
 
 

The most omportan thing is that you are interessed in the ship. Next perfect build manual and good materielas.
 
Go for a Vanguard kit from Chris Watton.   Forgett about Al, BB and a few more. I have built
them for more than 40 yares and I know what I am talking about
 
 
 
 
 
Morten in Norway

Greg,
 
Here is a bit of terminology. The yard is the spar the sail hangs from. The tapered end where all these lines and block go is the yard arm.
 
Ya gotta know this stuff if you want to talk like a pirate!

Each pendant or block should have an eye spliced in and fitted over the end of the yard arm.  The inside one butts up against the yard arm cleat and the rest snug up close to the preceding one. The fittings usually went over the yardarm in a specific order, usually with the footrope being first over (most inboard) and then proceeding outward with the yard tackle pendant, brace pendant, topsail sheet block, and the lift block being the last (furthest outboard).
 
Regards,
Henry

Read the pinned articles on planking on this site!