davyboy

Hi, and thanks for the like
 
 

One last photo for the week.  I drilled the interior scupper holes.  This was a bit nerve wracking.  I hadn't anticipated how easy it would be for the 1/32" x 1/32" waterway strip to split while being drilled.  I wound up starting with a much smaller drill bit and then using three more progressively larger sizes to only take a slight bit of material off at a time.  I made sure to turn the pin vice really slowly.  If the waterway split, the split part was still attached at one end.  I took a sharpened toothpick, applied a tiny amount of wood glue, and glued the fragmented sliver back down.  I had to do that with three of the holes.  The splits are invisible.  Glad I'm done with that part!
 
Also, I'm not sure of the properties of wood in general, but I'm curious if my boxwood, which I've had for 9 years in an inside climate that has a humidity of around 25% most of the year, splits easier because of that.
 
Erik

Hopefully by this weekend.

Chuck wasn’t lying, there is lots of wood!
 
Shawn

Not back in that cabin….take a look at the original draft.   The captains stateroom is on the lower platform….an even smaller space.  These were small vessels and working mainly coastal.  
 
Smaller crew and even smaller spaces.  Heres a look at the original draft and cabin spaces.
 

 


 

Mast steps
Over the weekend I completed the two mast steps. The location of these is very important and the plans really helped me out here.
 
Mizzen step: The first thing I did was to tack glue the three sections together with a spot or two of school glue. Then I milled the notch which goes over the keelson. After breaking the pieces apart, I milled the notch into the top of the middle piece and glued the aft and middle sections together permanently. Next, I angled the bottom edge about 5° to account for the upward sweep of the keelson. I worked the two sections until everything was sitting flush with the limber strakes and keelson. The fore section was then positioned over the keelson, against the first two pieces, and shaped accordingly.
 
You might be asking, why didn't I  just glue all three pieces together from the start? It wasn't long before I realized that the shape of the fore and aft pieces were not Identical. The aft piece had a slightly different angle at the foot than the fore piece. This is due to the twist in the limber strake, I think. Doing this in stages allowed me to get each piece angled correctly without the hassle of trying to work the whole piece at once.
 
According to the plan, the center of the mizzen step sits .151" (approx 5/32") in front of the aft edge of frame 11F. I glued the step into position using a cross piece and shim to account for that distance. This also helped to get the step perpendicular to the keel.

Main step: This was made basically the same way as the mizzen step. It sits over frame Ba. Unlike the mizzen step, I didn't need to taper the foot. The distance between the centers of the two steps is approx 9-5/32".

For the pins I turned down a 1/16" dowel using the Dremel tool. They are press fitted without the need for glue.

I've had so much fun making these that I almost forgot that I need to finish up the outer hull planking.😏
 
Mike

Post One Hundred and Sixty. 
 
Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part Three) 
Getting the correct thwart levels and height is a critical part of assembly.
It is important to get the thwarts all square across the boat.

4038
When fitting the thwarts it is advisable not to exert even light pressure on the centres of the thwarts, particularly those with the mast holes in them. 
 
The final tricky part is fitting the gunwales.
These delicate parts are pre-cut and include the thole pin fittings.
4041
I decided to fit the gunwales as provided, complete with thole pin fittings for eight double banked rowing stations.
 
I know all the arguments about Pinnaces being single banked to accord with historical custom and practice, and that boats of 32’ were 10 oared, and even that traditionally Pinnaces had a centre board running between the thwarts.
 
There are more than a few difficulties involved in making a diversion from the kit to reflect the above, and as with the smaller Pinnace on Sphinx, after long consideration I decided that leaving well alone was the best course.

4044
No matter, it is a very fine boat to display with Indy.
Chris has put a lot of thought into the design of these boats, and the fine detail is the best around at this scale.

4055
The wale is next fitted and does require a degree of edge bending to conform to the line as it rounds the bow.

4048

4045
The lower hull has been painted in Ivory to provide a contrast with the ‘bright’ timbers up to the wale.
 
Painting these small boats requires careful masking but the tyranny of the macro w-i-p photos required several goes to improve the lines to a point I found acceptable.

4103
Vallejo blue/grey is used to decorate the top strake and transom, and w-o-p is applied to the bare wood.

4104
The rudder is fitted with the modified quick release arrangement common on these boats.

4097
Making these small boats provides hours of fun and frustration in equal measure. They are absorbing little projects that I enjoy doing despite the frustrations at times.
 
Just the finishing touches to add now.
 
B.E.
25/03/2024
 

Mizzen Topsail Shrouds and Topsail Stays
This morning I added the final ratline when I completed the mizzen topsail shrouds.

Before moving on to adding the topgallant masts and associated shrouds I ran in the threads required for the topsail mast stays.
 
Starting with the mizzen topsail mast stay
The main topsail stay and preventor have been run in, but I have not belayed to the deck as yet.

The fore topsail stay and preventor have been run in, but I have not belayed them to the deck as yet.

Current build status

One of the benefits of working at 1/32" scale is of course the size.  I think its easier to handle the parts and keep things neat and tidy.  But in addition to that you can really get a lot of details in there.  Stuff I would never attempt to add on smaller scales.  Further, 1/32 and better yet 1/35 scale is a very popular modeling scale.  There are so many aftermarket parts and details available for builders at this scale.  This includes figures and accessories.  Like the small cups and pitcher.   Its all readily available on Etsy or Ebay.   Its also fun to just look.   I am waiting on a few other things I made add.  
 
The barrels are Syren barrels.   I am also getting some new ones in stock I think you guys will like.   It might be a while though.
 

The checker is still very tiny but that is laser cut by me including small very teensy checkers.  The stools are also laser cut in cedar and very differnt from the cushy chairs in the great cabin for the officers.
 

The cups and tea cups and teapot are all 3d prints from EBAY.  They were cheap and there are so many to choose from....you can add crates and boxes full of food and pots and pans and utensils. Its really just up to you and how much fun you might want to have with it.
 

The officer in the great cabin is from Vanguard.  It had a tall hat so I removed that and just shaped some hair in the traditional pony tail of the day.   I didnt want to really paint these items as I want them to all fade into the background.  I want to keep it all very suggestive and simple.   So rather than paint everything with realistic coloring with all the uniform colors and fanfare,  I am just finishing all this stuff as if it was wood color...and carved.   Its a minimalist approach so the ship itself takes center stage.  But it will all be covered and just barely visible when the decks are planked.  But still you might just get a glimpse and a happy surprise if you look hard enough.   I think it will be fun.
 
I do actually have a few more 1/32 and 1/35 scale odds and ends coming in the mail.    We shall see if they make the cut and I add them to the model.  I dont want to over do it.  For all you guys who would do the same...try and stick with 1/35 scale details.  They are plentiful and just a tad smaller and look better on the model.
 

 
Chuck
 
 

Decided not to work today and instead start working on the fcastle beams.
 
Its basically the same as establishing the height for the gundeck beams and deck clamps.  There is a template provided for you.  But yes you can measure it any way you feel comfortable.   Trace the bottom of the template in pencil.  
 

The line you just drew will become the TOP of the deck clamp for the fcastle beams.   I will repeat that...The top edge of the deck clamp.  
 
Once the deck clamp is in position which is a small length of 1/4" x 1/16" cedar strip,  we can proceed with the first deck beams.   There are two we must contend with first.   One is a gundeck beam....and the one above that is the first fcsatle beam.  They are both 1/4" deep but the fcastle beam on top is much thinner.  Those beams were not as heavy.
 

In the photo above you can see how the aft edge of these two beams are all flush with the riding bitts.  This is important.  The riding bitts are not glued in position yet and we can use them to establish the position of both beams.   The beams must of course be cleaned of char and cut to length so they sit nicely on to of the deck clamps for them.  These two beams can be glued in position but still refrain from gluing the riding bitts in place.  Also do not glue in the fire hearth yet.   Although this will sit flush against both beams and can help you position them as well.

 
Next up I will start working on the remaining 3 fcastle deck beams but I wont glue them in position just yet.
 
 

Actual step of built :
 
 

Hello, and many thanks for all the likes
because the vegetation here is 4 weeks in advance of normal years, my garden now needed much of my time. But today it rained and so I'm back at the shipyard.
 
The carpenters set in the deck beams and started with the paneling of the walls.



 

Dave,
I doubt anyone will notice, but as a rule, many builders feel it is better to err by being a little too small rather than too large.  1/2" is about 0.2mm and the human eye can see the difference of about 0.1mm (if next to each other)
 
Diameter/Caliber - I believe the Artois class carried 18 pounders and 9 pounders so the bore diameters would be about 5.25" and 4.25"  The chart on the following site might be a little help for diameter of the shot.  It shows shot diameter and bore diameter.  https://www.arc.id.au/Cannonballs.html
Length of the bore - For argument sake maybe go from the touch hole to the muzzle.  At 1:64 it will be really close.  What I did not find is whether the length of the breech rope is from the bulkhead ring to bulkhead ring or does that include the loop of rope through those two rings and the ends that are seized.  
 
There is also the following chart, but I forget where it came from or the era.  It might be from Simmons' Vade Mecum which came out in 1812.  There is a second chart below that I put together a while back but it only gives barrel lengths at various scales.   If you do not have Excel I can send as a PDF.
  Length chart.xlsx
 
 

It's funny how some people complain about the government as "Big Brother" when it really is companies like Apple that are the problem. They spy on you 24/7 to record everything you watch or listen to and purchase, and tax you any time they want to without any public input. Orwell was right about Big Brother, but he just picked the wrong villain.

Thanks, Allan ☺️
 

Hi, Thanks Alberto, Tanks to all
 
 

So I thought I was ready for planking but, I forgot the small forward hatch and galley cover. Needing my mill and having everything packed in boxes from the move forced me to unpack 14 boxes of shop stuff. Spent two days doing the first organizing in my new space. I have some tall cabinets on order so I'll do a proper job of organizing. With the mill found now how to put together. Took quite awhile to remember what went where and then put it all together. Spent the afternoon aligning and squaring and thank goodness for lasers to make it level and square. 
It had been two years since I cut any wood and I can't tell you how good it felt. Found the stock from the larger hatch and went to work. Previously I had made the grate using Syrens kits so it was striaght to the coaming. True confessions the wood bin was well fed.
Completed grate after one coat of wipe on poly

Next on the the galley vent

Finally finished planking the interior of the hull,then proceeded to the stern to began building the bulwark that separates the gunner room from the rest of the officers quarters, then realized I  need the deck beams temporarily in so I can build the  walls of the rooms up to and around the beams.

some steps forward:
everything is still only provisionally resting, I haven't fixed anything yet
 







 
 

First. The schrouds problem
Fortunately, cherry wood is very flexible and this can be easily solved. By stretching the frames towards each other.
This is something for later, if I do this now I won't have enough space to work in the rear castle.

 
Continued with determining the position of the decks.
And the "gun wale". On this beam were the swivel guns placed on the first version of the Mary Rose, on the current version only 3 would have remained.

Memory aid. Where is what 


Adjustment of the stern

The position of the 3 swivel guns

further surgery of the stern

Upper deck and castle deck determined. Upper castle still to do

current status

Thaks for following

Not really...there are no drawings of the frames in the kit plans because they are not needed.  All the frame parts are laser cut.  The other plan sheets will be released however as PDF docs....
 
But yes there are plans available at 1/4" scale in the seawatch books.   They are included in the two volume set.   They are of course slightly different than my approach but everything you need is in those two sets for a scratch build.   
 
Chuck

So here it is with the whole length toothpicks.
 

And trimmed, with the railing just started.
 


 
My lovely wife has solved at least one problem on this build for me - I'd wondered how to get the wavy border on the awning. Turns out she has a pair of scissors (think: a variation on pinking shears) that cuts paper and cloth with just the right wavy edge. Amazing!
 
Steven

Still a fair few things to do - she needs a railing and a red and white striped awning for the roof.



As I mentioned before, this is a prototype for a "good" model double the size, to see what works and what doesn't. Unfortunately one of the things that doesn't work is the uprights that support the awning/roof - they're made of bamboo toothpicks - in this version they were cut to exact length and went into "stopped" holes in the deck and roof, but due to inherent lack of precision this meant several posts didn't reach all the way from floor to roof, but hung supported at only one end.
 
So I've removed the roof again and drilled holes that go all the way through both deck and roof, and I'll use the toothpicks full-length so they stick out the holes, and cut the ends off when the glue is dry.
 
Steven

I decided it would be bestt to remove the bad gunnel and bend a new one.

I've been fiddling with making 'raw' deck beams for the past couple of visits to the museum. The model will need to come home shortly to have some finish applied to the inside of the hull, but in the meantime, I can make the beams ready to start chopping some of them up where deck structures will intrude so that things can progress after the model comes home.
 
This is how she looks at the moment with the beams so far made temporarily fitted in place.
 
John