davyboy

Hi Alan,
 
No,they stop at the futtock stave and continue upwards only on the futtock shrouds.
 
Dave

Carrick bitts are installed to hold the anchor windlass.
 

 

 

 
Dick
 
 

Remco, Steve, Joe, and Row thanks for your very kind remarks. Thanks to all who pressed the like button as well.
 
I finished up the clamp ring today and made the actuating lever to open and close the ring, it is quite tiny but was manageable. in order to get the widths that I wanted quickly I spun up a disc on the lathe, bored out the centre hole on the lathe then stood up the rod with the disc still attached in the vice on the mill and offset the other hole .156" then took it back to the lathe and parted it off then used the jewelers saw to cut out the crank.
 

 
Then cleaned it up with some files, then polished it up to a rouge finish and beveled the hub to create the cam.
 

 
Here it is set in position with the spring loaded bolt in the open position the width of the flanges at the bolt are .290"
 

 
And here with the lever in the closed position the width of the flange at the bolt is .250" locking the gearbox casing.
 

 
This is how it works
 
next the rear cam locking collar.
 
Michael
 

Ed, and Jack, thank you for your kind comments. and for all who added likes.
 
I had to make a new band clamp because the tabs were not wide enough to bolt it to the pan. the new one was machined from a solid ring and then a lot of fiddling and filing to get it to spring just right.
 

 

 
I also whipped up a flywheel because it is tough on my fingertips turning the 1/8th shaft all the time to test stuff.
 

 

 
Today I worked on the clutch, it was a bit of a design build affair following the general principles, the gearbox and clutch will be underneath the cover so only the top of the linkage and the lever will need to be as accurate as possible to keep the appearance of the engine looking as the full size engine.
 
I abandoned the cap screw hex and made a hex broach from a 3/16 allen key. first I heated it up and let it cool slowly to take the hardness out of it, then cut a taper on one end of the hex. Next I added the beveled slots to create the cutting faces. I ended up making a second one because I forgot to temper the first one after re hardening it, it cut the first hex through about a half inch length of brass stock, and then I tried a longer piece of brass and it shattered into three.
 

 
Pushing the second one with the vice rather than using the hammer which is how I managed to wreck the first one.
 

 
At the back end of the broach I reduced the diameter before it was hardened so that I could part off the disks one at a time, as the broach was forced through, each time the broach reached the end I put it back in the lathe parted off another disc
 

 
Next I turned a few discs of mild steel off a blank that had been pre drilled for the keeper rods. the steel discs are 5/8 diameter and .020 thick the brass plates are 5/16 diameter and .040 thick. the steel discs will be fixed to the gearbox and rotate about the hex the hex will be pinned to the prop shaft and the brass plated will spin with the hex
 
.
 
Here they are test fitted for size, the wide brass collar is also keyed to the prop shaft and will be the pushing element to squeeze the plates together.
 

 
Time for bed
 
Michael
 
 

Thanks everyone for the comments and Likes.
Its been a long couple of days working on the gearboxes, yes I ended up redoing the casing a couple of times over, I also opted to redo the inner stuff as well. Although the micro gears worked they were not as smooth as I wanted. I ended up using some 48DP "pinion wire" it is actually 10 tooth brass pinion, and is exactly 1/4 inch in diameter. this way I was able to go by the numbers and make the proper distances for the gears to mesh'
 

 
Like this Video
 
In order for the gearbox to be able to lock so that the prop rotates forward there is a clutch that is splined, I have been wracking my brains working at finding a way to make a small spline. This morning as I woke up it hit me.
 

 
Yup the trusty old allen head cap screw has a negative hex to accept the hex key, I matched up a 5/16 cap screw with some 1/4 inch hex brass. the steel collar will revolve in the base of the forward/reverse lever and will move about 1/64 to clamp the prop shaft to the gearbox causing the forward motion. the hex part will be pinned to the prop shaft, and a loose clamping collar will be inserted between the hex collar and the casing of the gearbox, when the lever is pulled back the hex collar will move forward clamping the case and loose collar hence locking the case to the prop-shaft
 

 

 
The revers is accomplished by clamping the gearbox inside a steel band which was made from some steel rings turned up and silver soldered together. As the gearbox is clamped the splined collar also releases the loose clamping collar allowing the gears inside to impart the reverse
 

 
The rings were machined to shape using the mill and the lathe.
 

 

 

 
When I cut the slot on the top of the band it automatically sprung to a smaller diameter which works in my favour because in order to open the band a wedge has to slide forward, this wedge is connected to the forward reverse lever.
 
It is getting there.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

If one is unsure, best get a specialist to sort things out. And I could not have found anybody better :-)
 
My I present, Mr William Rivers, Gunner of the Victory since 1790*.
 

 
Aged 50 he is already one of the oldest on board and lives since 15 years on the starboard aft end of the lower deck. he told me, that his nice wooden peace-time cabin was replaced by a batten-canvas construction as it facilitates removal during war times. But as he had some materials and documents to keep, he was the only one to get a real door.
 
The gunroom also was separated by a batten-canvas construction from the lower deck. Also the cabin underneath the weep was done this way, the middle cabins of the gunroom and the two extra cabins in front of it were pure canvas hanging from the beams. 
 
Through Mr River I had als the joy and honor to meet Chaplain Reverend Alexander Scott. In his typical black suit he took me to the so called school table where he held some lesons for the boys and midis.  
 
 
 

 
While Mr Rivers tries to circle around the group, holding his hat in the hand as the max headroom is very poor, this scene is watched attentively by two 2nd Lieutenant of the Marines, Mr Lewis Rotely and Mr Lewis Reeves.
 
 
 
Just some impressions, seen from the gundeck ...
 

 

 

 
... our fancy group ... 
 

 

 
... and Mr River, coming out of his cabin and trying to squeeze his way through.
 

 

 

 
Cheers, Daniel
 
*(1793?)

I have heard of Tobacco Pipe cleaners being used to simulate Baggywrinkles by wrapping  them around the Stays,Shrouds etc where required.
 
Dave

I have heard of Tobacco Pipe cleaners being used to simulate Baggywrinkles by wrapping  them around the Stays,Shrouds etc where required.
 
Dave

Und beenden.

Und vieles mehr.

Hallo Leute,
 
Ich habe hier Eine lange Zeit nichts, tut mir leid. Ich hätte Zuerst die Bauarbeiten zu mir nach Hause zu BEENDEN, sonst meine Frau Wäre sauer auf mich zu haben. Ich habe jetzt Begann sterben Galion, Aber ganz Eigene. Alle Artikel anzeigen Werden ohne Maschinen gemacht, Auch reine Handarbeit. Die Streifen 0,5 x 1,00 mm Sind mit Einem Messer geschnitten. Zu DM zeitpunkt, zu schnitzen ich sterben Galionsfigur.
 
Und ich danke IHNEN allen für die lieben Kommentare.
 
Grüße Kay

The main and mizzen top masts are now in place, and have all their shrouds and ratlines added, phew, I am glad they are all finished and that I split it up this way, as it did make the ratlines a lot less tedious to tie,I will now most likely add as much of the standing rigging that I can before fitting the tagallants masts.
I have also included some photos of Diana with Pegasus and The lady Nelson.
 
Firstly a lower fold down table I used to bring the rigging to a better level to work at

 
Main and mizzen masts



Completed ratlines



 
 
Some photos of Diana with Pegasus And some with The Lady Nelson as well

Top mast was fitted to the fore mast next, and the shrouds and ratlines have been added.
 
One tip I do have, which I seem to have omitted to mention in my earlier posts on the shrouds and ratlines, is that, most kit manufacturers instructions for ratlines, recommend using .25mm, or which ever size natural thread and then stain it black (a very messy option in my opinion) there reasoning’s being that black thread is to stiff to use well Caldercraft thread is quite stiff, but I always use Amiti which is no stiffer than natural colour thread.
The main and mizzen next.
 
Shroud with 3mm block

 
Shrouds

 

 

 

 
Shrouds And ratlines with Lady Nelson shows how big Diana is
 

 

Hi Guys. I finally got around to redoing the photo's. Just click on the photo and it should enlarge so that you can get a good look at the books. As druxey said it  is a little dated back to the 1980's but does help  one who doesn't know about them and just may want to add them to their library. Gary

This afternoon after getting the shop warmed up a bit from 3 degrees to 13 degrees C I worked on the parts for the crankshaft.
 
First I thinned down a piece of 1/8th gauge-plate to .094 then drilled and reamed 8 holes to 1/8th diameter.
 

 
Next I cut the piece into the four plates for the sides of the con rod bearings part of the crankshaft, I used a new blade in the jewelers saw.
 

 
A 1/8th set of dowels were slipped through the holes and the group were clamped in the vice and filed to shape.
 

 
Then polished up with 400, 600, and 1200 wet and dry sandpaper., I like it when I can get a reflective surface, then I know it is pretty smooth.
 

 

 
The sides of the plates will get polished Tuesday or Wednesday. Tomorrow is errand day in the big city.
 
I turned up the .344" long 1/8 inch diameter shafts for the big ends of the con rods and did a dry assemble to see how the whole lot looks.
 

 

 
I will silver solder the lot together then cut off the parts of the main shaft that are not needed. "The proof will be in the pudding" as they say, so crossing my fingers for a clean soldering job.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thanks to all the builders who pushed the like button.
 
Denis, I am learning a lot about engines myself at the moment.
 
Steve yes I am going to make the reverse mechanism as well.
 
Today this morning I was drawing up the feed-water pump, I ended up finding a good internal design in one of my old Model Engineer mags page 1265 October 1981 for a 3 1`/2 inch gauge Stanier 8F. I will need to make it smaller but the design will fit into the pipes that are on the prototype buffalo which pumps off the camshaft like this one on the Old Marine engine site
 
I worked on the pan today and roughed out the half round bottoms for the crankshaft and drilled and tapped all the 0x80 holes for the studs.
 

 
I looked at all my stashes of steel wire and rods looking for some .060 to make the steel 0x80 studs from. I could not find any that was exactly .060"
I then came across a most unlikely source, the re-bar ties left over from building the house just happened to be .060 the stuff threaded up a treat. had to make a small open ended wrench to get to the valve side because of the overhang.
 

 
Did a test fit of the crankcase and pan and water-jacket, it all slipped together nicely. It has really helped with the accuracy of cutting and drilling to set up the dial calipers on the mill, and working from  a 0 centre 
 
Michael
 
 
 

Ed hopefully the next set of pictures will clarify my description. Mark well it is not a complete machine job there is some soldering however I did not want to anneal the brass that has the bearings braces so opted for soft solder which will be more than adequate for the oil pan.
 
The first picture shows the material being removes that will become the hollow areas'some parts were machined by the numbers and the bulk was just milled away by eyeballing it.
 

 
Next the 1/32 thick sheet was annealed and curved over a steel bar.
 

 
It took a while to get it fitted cleanly, the flat area on the middle bearing wall is to allow the oil to pass through to equalize both chambers.
 

 
The next picture shows the assembled parts cleaned up a bit getting ready to do the soldering.
 

 
Resting the upper part of the crankcase to see the overall scope of the whole engine.
 

 
In the next picture you can see the central cross member.
 

 

 
There is still a fair bit of cleaning up to do but I am generally pleased with the progress.
 
Again thanks to all who have looked in and pressed the like button.
 
Michael
 
 

Looking at my records, I realised that I started the project already in 2006, after doing some 10 or more years of research on it. I also began to report on the project in MSW 1.0, but this building report sank together with it and the project then stalled due to my move to Paris. Now, with my Noord-Holland nostalgia Botter-project all but completed, I am turning my attention to the WESPE again. Looking over its storage box, I realised that I had made quite a few bits and pieces already, on which I will report here by and by.
 
@tadheus: thanks for the picture. This wellknown picture shows some of the boats towards the end of their active service life in one of the entrance locks to Wilhelmshaven harbour. While I will be depicting the boats in a state some 20 years earlier, this photograph is very useful, because it is one of the few close-up images showing a lot of detail.
 
As to the scale: I chose the 1:160 scale really for three reasons: i) I don't have the space to keep large models and I don't like to give my models away, once completed; ii) I like the challenge of working at a small scale, trying to pack-in us much detail as others may do at twice the size; iii) this is the model-railway N-scale, so you can crew water-line models easily.
 
There is also a German Wikipedia-page on these boats: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMS_Wespe_(1876) and a generic page on 'flat-iron' gunboats, as they were also called: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat-iron_gunboat. Both pages, however, have to be taken with a pinch of salt, as they contain some imprecisions.

More details to add are the nun buoys used with the anchors.  Seen on the real ship, these served to locate the anchors and by a line attached to the foot or fluke end of the anchor, the anchor could be pulled backwards to disengage the flukes with a fouled anchor. 
 

 
On the present ship, the nun buoys are rigged as they were described by Steel in 1794.
On a  close up of the nun buoy, although rather dark, one can see the upper rope line forming a ring with lines eyespliced to the ring, running down to form a lower eye.  The reverse lines run from the lower ring to form the upper eye.
 

 
I hesitate to recommend this technique since it requires many "splices" but being rather compulsive, I decided to rig them as described by Steel.  I suspect one could paint a vitamin pill black, glue it to the rigging and few would notice. But what's the fun in that.  The buoys were shaped from a 7mm. dowel and the line to form a ring was glued to one side (C/A 10-15 sec.) to give a stable starting point.
 

 
Lines with eye splices were attached to the ring line.  Forming the eye splice. The upper ring line completed.
 

 
Four stages of rigging the nun buoys.  From left to right,
  Upper ring with eye splices and lines seized at lower end.
  Lower eye seized.
  Lower eye seized and trimmed.
  Reverse rigging lower ring line and forming upper eye.
 

 
Seizing the other end.
 

 
To be continued.......
 
 
 
 
 
 

And the rest of the story.
Both eyes formed
 

 
All nun buoys rigged.  On the right, upper line for retrieving the buoy, heavier lower line to the anchor.
 

 
On the real ship, nun buoys lashed to the shrouds.
 

 
And on the model.  Excess line to anchor stored in hammock net.
 

 
The close up appears rather rough, but gives the sense of tarred canvas and ropes over cork
 

 
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.  Gil.
 
 

The easiest way to control the depth you want is to push the drill bit into the chuck,collet or pin vice leaving only the length you require protruding. No need for tape or colour marking the drill. Also less chance of breaking a small diam drill. Works every time for me
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Thanks for the link. If I say what I want to say this would get delete so I won't say, but believe me I am not offended by any means.

Thank you for the link!
 
FWIW I don't see why it should offend anyone any more than the Spanish or French should be offended over Trafalgar, or the British should be offended for losing the War of Independence, etc.

i will remove if this offends anyone
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-30128199
 
 

Not something I've heard of either, but I am surprised that removals took place at sea except under extreme circumstances.
Sailors were /are? a superstitious lot and from the earliest times viewed the figurehead as a symbol of the soul of a ship, a guardian providing comfort and security against the vagaries of the sea.
I would imagine that certainly in the 18th century and earlier removal of the figurehead would be considered very bad luck for the ship and viewed with dismay by the crew members.
 
B.E.