davyboy

If I am not mistaken 'Buchsbaum' is box (buxus) wood

Von der ursprünglichen Illustration zu ausgeführt Schnitzereien, ist es sehr einfach, wenn man weiß, was man tut.
Für das Schnitzen ich nur "Buchsbaum" zu verwenden, in diesem Fall ist die Platte 12 mm dick.
 

Nice! another "Brasso build" to follow 
 
Robin

Semi-offtopic. Finished the jewelry box, the build log is here if somebody is interested: http://imgur.com/a/7fNCc
That was an interesting practice, took longer than expected. Totally new skill of turning a non-square non-flat warped piece of wood and making it square, flat and parallel on all sides. Jointing and planing, something not frequently used in the ship modelling!
 
Also, my standard way of "cutting an oversized part and sanding it to shape later on" does not work on that scale, so there were much more careful calculations and cutting to final dimensions from the first attempt. Well, maybe shaving 0.5mm from some risky pieces with the block plane..
 
First time I used OSMO Polyx (http://www.osmouk.com/sitechapter.cfm?chapter=82&page=247) as a wood finish. It is surprisingly good - dries fast, easy to apply, the end result is really strong. Will test it on a small scale, might be a good finish for the model. Anybody has an experience with OSMO as a ship modelling finish?
 

 

the stern decoration is almost over

 

 

 

 

A few more pictures in this article that are all about this model. Enjoy
 
English Brig of War.pdf
 
 

I like the contrast of the black trucks Rusty, but hey, it's your ship!

Hi Rod.
Even the full size ships/boats develop joint leaks.
My rowing boat did and at the start of the season after being laid up in the boathouse for 4 months.
I just rowed it out to the sand bank and sunk her for a day.. next day pull her in and refloat her.. no more leaks for rest of season.
Not to be done with your model....
Regards Antony.

Thanks, Gentlemen, for the encouraging words .
 
***********************************************************************
 
I am now catching up from the point, where the log had been interrupted, namely from post #51.
 
The gears were cut from brass stock in the milling machine with the help of direct dividing head and different division plates. The shape of the teeth is not exactly correct, because I used a disc-shaped burr as cutting tool. However, at this module (0.06), where the teeths are merely pitched 0.1 mm apart, this is hardly noticeable. The gear wheels are parted off from the stock on the lathe. The gear segment that will be attached to the barrel was produced in the same manner.
 

 

 

 

Cutting the gears for the gun elevating mechanism using different division plates
   
Cut-off wheels before further machining
 
to be continued ...

As for the gratings, I tried to make them in wood, but even the smallest I could do was so off in terms of scale that even I who don't really care for scale in this size wasn't pleased.
 
So, improvising as usual, i just printed the gratings....
 

 
Some more details added
 


 
the same for the second deck (still need to paint the stairs red like the parisian model).
 

 
I also started building some more detail at the transom.
 

 

More balsa and a few strips of scrap wood to make the arcade stuff (don't know the name     )...
 


 
The balsa pieces also help to form the gunports.
 
I totally forgot to take pictures, but I glued the gun carriages in to the their positions in the gunports (two of them may be seen from outside - more pics later...) under this second deck (      stupid me!).
 
This is was a prototype for the gun carriages (the cannons themselves were not included as I thought I would break them easily - they'll be glued in the final stages of the model - if it survives...)
 
First try - thick card. Not good.
 

 
Second attempt - wood veneer (no idea what wood this is... I just bought a pile of scraps...     )
 

 
Toothpick for the cannon...
 

 
A second set...
 

 
Both together...
 

 
Ruler for size... (out of scale but still cool!)
 

 
And my thumb for reference too...
 

 
It'd be much easier to turn the cannons if I had a lathe or a rotary tool (I'll try to purchase one, 'cause doing all these by hand will be too time consuming and time is one of my restrictions lately).
 
 
 
 
 
 

Yes... It's my first build... It's all pretty messed up but I'm loving it... I'm even considering doing something bigger if it turns out "acceptable" in the end... The problem with this scale and all improvisation is that I'm spending a lot of time thinking about the next steps or ways to correct the mistakes I made in the planning...

After a few attempts, I think that the deck planking was not so horrible...
 


 
The hole you guys see in the middle section was the fruit of my illusion to add some real miniature grating      ... All the gunports were also painted red. Due to the small size, I think I'll have to use CA glue to secure the bow planks in place, so instead of wood, I carved/sanded a plastic piece (to make it easier, I think...).
 
The same was done with the other decks...
 

 
With a bit of improvised weathering (yeah everything's improvised!!!      )
 

 
 

To fix the 'flexibility' problem, I also added some wood (balsa - I know it's not the best, but it was easy to find, easy to glue, and really easy to sand) between the bulkheads.
 

 

 

 
This made all the fairing thing much easier... (improvised sand block in the lastpicture...     )
 
The problem with the wood-covered styrene deck is that it's really flat. I could sand it to give it a more natural curve, but instead I thought of something else...
 
I had some thick card paper lying around so I improvised some deck planking on top of it... Also, it's not the standard deck planking pattern (I only found a tutorial on deck planking a long way after I had done it).
 
It's a bit out of scale but whatever, it's already pretty small for me      ... 
 
 
 

To deal with the fleixibility and to keep bulkheads at a 90 degree angle with the false keel, I glued a lot of rubber blocks between them... I also added the space for the cannon ports...
 

 
The decks, however, were not glued. It was just a dry run to see if they would fit. I also started fairing the bulkheads, but with extreme care because, again, it was a bit fleixble      ...
 
 
 

Before anything, English is not my mother language so please be kind to my mistakes (there will be too many I'm afraid) and lack of nautical jargon.
 
Well, this is my first build. You may think it's a pretty bold move for a beginner to model such an intricate ship as the Royal Louis but I fell in love at first sight with the model at the Musée National de la Marine in Paris a couple years ago. At the time, I had no interest whatsoever in ship modeling, which is a pity, and missed the opportunity of taking hundreds of pictures at the museum. Either way, that's the one...
 

 
The model at the museum is huge - I think it's larger than 2.5 meters (8.2 feet?). I wanted to build a model ship like everyone in the forum but I live in a small appartment in Sao Paulo Brazil so I had to settle for something smaller. I also didn't want to buy a kit (another risky choice for a rookie) so I got both model ship makers and historical plans to plan my build. In the end, I planned my little Royal Louis to have a 25 cm hull (9.8 inches?) and sit comfortably on a very small shelf when done. Another reason for the small size is that I don't have much time so, a larger model would take too much time preparing the wood, etc etc.
 
I'm no Lloyd Mccafery so my model will be full of flaws and probably horrible in the end, but I guess it's a nice experience and you can only learn stuff by doing it. I really hope I can learn something from it. Lots of stuff will be out of scale or I'll end up using inadequate materials/techniques, but in the end I'll have fun.
 
I used POB as a start as you can see in the next pic...
 

 
The bulkheads are really thin, so wood was not an option (at least for my poor skills). I tried with a couples different types of wood but all of them felt too brittle to my taste, so the internal false keel / bulkheads were all made of styrene. They do have some flexibility but at least I didn't break all of the bulkheads. So far, so good.
 
   

Wasn't quite sure where to put these pics, but here seemed as good a place as any (Sorry these aren't exactly professional quality).  One of the interesting models in the Rogers collection at the Annapolis Naval Museum is this the following model of a Cruizer Class sloop.  I curse myself because I forgot to take picture of the plate, so if anyone else has that info then please share.  I'm not going to analyze, but the following jumped out at me.  I wonder how much of this was reflective of reality and how much was model makers whimsy....
 
Dare I say, the square tuck.... The presence of a Spritsail Topsail Yard Figurehead which are not shown on any plans Cannons rather than carronades, and the inclusion of 2 additional stern chasers Stern deck houses appear consistent with those shown on many plans Presence of fore platform, and bucklers on the foremost gun port Capstan placement consistent with plans and more logically located toward stern Aft davits which were RN anathema

There are many good books covering this subject. Do you have a specific ship, era and/or country you are modeling? That would help us to point you in the right direction as rigging practices changed over the years as well as between countries.

Not a great selling point when seeking a response to your enquiry.
 
B.E.

The stays are all at different angles, so the distance between deadeyes actually varies slightly.  It may be something you can deal with by sizing them all the same and using different tightness on the lanyards.  I use a little different jig which accounts for the difference.

Hi Timboat,
 
Andersons' 17th Century Rigging is IMO somewhat better than his Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast. Larger line drawings and a foldout rigging plan of the St George 96 guns of 1701.
 
Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War has a belaying plan for a 20 gun ship of circa 1719 in section 4. Also has 2 pages of text appertaining to this plan.
 
 
May be of some help to you.
 
Dave 

Today I finished the standing rigging.
 

 
Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.
 

 
Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.
 

 

 

 
Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!

Marsalv,
That figurehead is amazing.  Is it carved in wood or sculpted in clay... or maybe something else?
Tom

Very appetizing girl!