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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Nicely done with the metal process. The reflectivity is very good. I wouldn't expect mirror finishes on operational jets, unless they were going to an airshow and they'd buff up everything. Thank God for camouflage paint jobs; no shining that stuff up, unless you're the Thunderbirds/Blue Angels and similar demo teams. Yeah, the frequent updates here in this sub-forum are crowding out the actual ship builds. You can't follow these builds on the front page. I'm OK with that. The techniques discussed here are applicable to most modeling disciplines working with styrene and other materials. Model on!
  2. OC, you may want to look at coating your decals with Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Prevents older decals from breaking up. Some of the others may chime in about maybe using a stronger setting solution. I have a bottle of Solvaset, put out by a defunct maker of pretty thick decals. If you have a hobby shop nearby that's open, maybe they could give you a steer (if its an older person who knows how to apply decals).
  3. Denis, keep on truckin' with this beastie. It's a definite novelty.
  4. Nice catch with the void in the tail.That may have even been a section of titanium. Most jets, of slightly newer vintage in that era, and later, had some in those hot areas.
  5. Mike, read EGs F-104 build about his clear coverings over BMF. Some of the hobby formulations may darken your finish. He seems to like the Liquitex varnish.
  6. Really fine job on those cockpits, Mike. And ditto about the canopies. Dip, do not brush.
  7. Vinegar (mild acetic acid) may be better. Try not to touch the parts with bare fingers afterwards; you may transfer skin oils.
  8. I like your testing, EG. The pictures are good examples. I've read of folks doing this, but they don't show enough examples.
  9. I'm in too. Don't think they came in anything but BMF (unless you do it as a USN Fury).
  10. I've heard that from other folks, too.
  11. Get some Canopy Glue. It's a thick white glue that dries clear. Find it at RC airplane shops. Or some of the Aleene's Tacky glues. They have several different formulations. I used the Extra Tacky to glue styrene to wood. Had to clamp that since the wood was a small structure and I think it absorbed the glue faster than I could stick the plastic to it.
  12. You're a brave man to work with 1/72 PE cockpit details, although I must say they do add some nice parts. Hope they're visible after you closed up the fuselage, too.
  13. Carl, thanks. I ended up with a bottle of pigment for Burnt metal, because I didn't realize they made them as a paint and a pigment. Lesson learned.
  14. EG, the black gloss or a dark grey gloss undercoat works well. I like the steel over black on the exhaust nozzle. Looks familiar to me. Great job showing your testing, too. 👌 I have a train buddy who was a master at doing the various shading of natural metal finishes, when he was an IPMS maven. He liked working with the various Alclad shadings. I think you may need several shades of the paint Carl references and apply panel by panel to get the variations you seek. I've read this technique on several aircraft modeling sites. Carl, are these paints or dry pigments you apply over the base coat?
  15. Kevin has the key, a gloss undercoat. Which metal paint are you using, EG? Canopy glue should be good for the PE. I haven't used TG for PE. I have used it for gluing styrene to wood. The canopy glue is like a thick white glue that dries clear and has some flexibility after it dries. I've glued PE running boards to plastic freight cars. Better than superglue, which can get brittle as it ages or gets cold.
  16. Going to look good, OC. Starter units were always at a premium. Never enough to cover all needs.
  17. Got some spring clamps to hold that together? Keeps the bands off the seams. It's a big model.
  18. Carl, Jack Northrop in California, had flying wing designs in the late 30s. He started building on a government contract in 1941, about the same time the Hortons were doing similar in Germany. A couple of 1/3rd scale N-9Ms were built during the war as proof of concept, flight testing and flying trainers. The first bomber, an XB-35, flew in 1946. A jet powered version, YB-49 was flown in early 1949. Whether Northrop or the Hortons were first is hard to call. The Hortons got contracts for airframes about the same time, so it's a tossup. We definitely learned stuff from the Hortons, but for reasons known to the Dear One, we scrapped the whole program in the early 1950s. It took until the late 80s to resurrect the Northrop designs and build the B-2. Whittle (UK) and Ohain(Germany) developed the jet engine simultaneously. I think there was some acrimony as to who was first, but I think they finally agreed to a simultaneous start. Now, the rocket program was definitely grabbing all the German designs we could.
  19. The Wrights were early systems engineers, not so much by schooling (they were bicycle mechanics by trade), but by figuring out they needed something to do something else. They developed a crude wind tunnel and figured the engine they wanted to propel their airplane didn't exist yet, so they reached out to a friend to develop a lighter weight engine for the Flyer. Read "The Bishop's Boys" for more insights into these 2 gentlemen. The Flyer turned by wing warping, not ailerons. The aileron concept was developed in the UK in the late 1800s, but the French applied it to a glider a year or so after the Wrights' first flights. Since wing warping put more stress on the wing structure, ailerons took over as the primary means of roll control and coordinated turns.
  20. Safe journey. Hope the weather is good to you.
  21. Maybe a tiny dot of Tacky Glue first to get it in place. Then flow your CA/superglue into the joint. Have some little squares of paper towels to blot up any excess CA. I've tacked styrene bracing into a resin car with that, then flowed the CA into the joint. Really need it with the older "flat" kits. Need square corners if you want the roof and floor to fit in. Trapezoids don't work too well. 😉
  22. Yes, it does. Aftermarket in this scale would be overkill. And the kit maker did such a nice job with their moldings.
  23. OC, nice presents. I like your dio concept. Definitely need those erks about.
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