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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. The Spitfire has always been one of my faves. Yours is looking super, Joe.
  2. I think the little beardless one has a distant cuzzin lives near me, over Cold Mountain way. He wants to get his still on that Moonshiners TV show. His stuff will curl your toes. Smooth, not!
  3. I use the Tamiya glue and like it a lot for a quick stick. It's mostly acetone, so be careful. I must have an allergy to the stuff, so I mask up. I also use Testors, for some joints, where I need a skosh of working time. Apply it with a fine wire. Some folks espouse methyl ethyl ketone. It's avilable in bulk from some big box hardware stores. Be careful if you go that route; the green label stuff doesn't work too well on polystyrene. Bottom line, have fun and enjoy yourself.
  4. Maybe the lady is selling off an estate and may not know the value of this kit. Without a sale price sticker on the box, most won't know the value. Like Lou says, there is a lot of aftermarket items for this kit. What you save here, you'll spend on those "detail up parts". Model Monkey, Black Cat Models and others have some very nice parts.
  5. May have to use super glue on that thin stock. I have to for model RR cars, if I use 0.010 stock.
  6. Good find, EG. I was about to suggest some fine fishing line called Spider Wire, looks like cabling.
  7. You can sometimes use 90% isopropel alcohol to remove paint and decals. But it all depends on the paint, too. Different paints react differently. Best bet is to try it out on a test piece.
  8. EG, nice work. Don't forget Archer Transfers for some of your details, such as those louvers. https://www.archertransfers.com/index.html You can go into the model rail section for the louvers. https://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsHOscale.html I know it says HO scale, but the resin decals show lengths in actual dimensions.
  9. Good luck with that retrofit, Jack. Happy to read there are bits you can use to do the repair.
  10. We had a crew warp the barrels of a 20MM Vulcan Gatling gun in an F-4. Two second burst was the max time per trigger pull per tech orders. These guys got too heavy on that. Don't know how long, but the barrels had some weird twists to them. Yeah, the rubber treads look good, but they do have a shelf life. May need some aftermarket treads?
  11. Yeah, that's not John's thing. He's more of the CAD/CAM side. How about the fine mesh in the plastic tea strainers. It's pretty thin, although the mesh is real fine.
  12. Nice job with your underframe, Andy. And a great diagram of all the various parts. They were busy, even without the airconditioning parts. Will you have screens along with vents?
  13. Testors/ModelMaster used to have a Gunmetal that was more of a blue-black. Don't know if it still exists in anybody's paint lines. The Tamiya Gunmetal is too silvery. Black with navy blue drybrushing may work. Just sayin'.
  14. Tom, you can never have too much ammo for those bomber gunners. The yellow ring around the nose is pretty much a US standard for live ordnance. We still use that on free fall and precision guided weapons. The fuses (little propellers on the noses) are a metallic aluminum. Old USAF weapons officer and I did this stuff for 20 years. Hope this helps.
  15. Andy, I'd imagine you'd need a "belt and suspenders" approach to heating those cars up your way, so dual systems makes lots of sense. I found better info on air conditioning systems on a couple of sites on Pullman operated cars. Anyway, very nice work.
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