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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. I got to fly on the wing of the RAF version of the Buccaneer; I think 208 Squadron, at a Red Flag in the late 70s. Very professional crews. 👍
  2. Had a good friend from up that way. Heck of a mechanical engineer. Unfortunately, he passed about a year back from a heart attack. He had stories about the Michiganders. We miss him.
  3. Rudtbob, you may want to wash your plastic parts with Dawn and warm water. The Dawn cuts through the oils on the parts. Works on both plastic and resin. Wash after cleaning up the parts, but before assembly. The CA and styrene glues work better.
  4. Too bad these printing resins are so brittle. The old resins they cast kits back in 80s were like that. Like peanut brittle. I think they were polyester resins. the stuff the use now is much easier to work, but then they are cast parts. They call it styrourethane and it glues up with CA. I think it was mid 70s when the yellow gear went to camo.
  5. Looking good, EG. Been out and about, missing this discussion. Engine and dolly look the part. Cripes, I remember when all the support equipment, referred to as Aerospace Ground Equipment or AGE, was that yellow. Well done. You may need to insert brass pins in your plastic joints. And maybe use MEK to weld the parts. Just sayin'.
  6. I'm in also. I remember the incident, because of some friends' involvement conducting the overflights. Looking forward to the build.
  7. Rudybob, just be careful that you have tight seams all along the hull. The Tamiya is a very thin liquid and can find the tiniest holes. The painters tape can hide the seepage.
  8. Great work, Craig. Well fitted parts, nice. And a good history lesson on armor development in the 30s into WWII. Thanks, EG.
  9. Roger that. Seems a waste to do up a nice interior and then hide it inside..
  10. Rust exists in multiple shades. Fresh rust is almost orange and darkens as the iron continues to oxidize. This just looks fresh; like Greg said, rustier is better. Multiple shades. 😀
  11. Coming along nicely, Javlin. Good weathering takes time and many layers. Don't rush. 😁
  12. My freezer is, but I usually do the disassembling with cars under a foot. And it gets really cold. Nanook would like it. 😉 You had mentioned reworking the superstructure, so that should be a more manageable size. The hard part is getting the freezer cold enough to make the joints brittle, but it does work. I recently did 3 cars, two worked well, one was glued with an epoxy and I couldn't remove the car weights without demolishing the car. The life of a kit-basher.
  13. Denis, I'm in too. If you want to disassemble plastic, try putting it in the freezer section of your fridge. I've dismantled a few cars that way. The plastic cement get brittle and you can gently pry the pieces apart. You may want to use plastic tools to do the prying, so you don't mar the kit parts. And get the Admiral's permission to use her freezer. The colder the freezer the better.
  14. Your combustor section looks good. 👍 All you need now is the nozzle section.
  15. Nice print. Cleaned up nicely. And your combustor cans are looking good
  16. I'm in. The Bunnell photos are really good for enlarging. They're large plate glass negatives. Details are amazing. The Steamtown crew did an excellent job scanning most of the photos. Unfortunately, some had started de-laminating and the pictures are gone. I've used some of the freight car pix from the collection.
  17. Absolutely correct, OC. Should do a "Missing Man" at the cemetery. And thank you, it was an honor to serve.
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