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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Roger, I'll second that on the training. The Allies figured out how to shorten pilot training without skimping on what the newbies really needed to know. Plus being able to rotate aircrew out of combat roles and into training jobs where they could pass along lessons learned. Mike, yes, you can saw the resin blocks off with a micro saw. I noticed you have a JLC one on your bench; I have one and it's an excellent saw. Wear a mask when you sand resin parts, the dust is annoying. I'd get a piece of coarse sandpaper to start, attach it to a dead flat surface and start gently sanding the part in a figure 8 pattern. Check the part frequently to ensure you're not sanding it at an angle. One very good reason to use that pattern. Go to finer grits as you get closer to finishing the part, if the side you're sanding will be visible.
  2. Commander Jimmy Thach developed the "Thach Weave" to combat the Zero. Effectively drag a Zero out in front of another Wildcat and the shooter brought his guns to bear on an aircraft having no armor plate over any part of the airframe. No protection for the fuel tanks and cockpit. Made the Zero very nimble and fast, but it did have a serious Achilles heel to get there.
  3. Another book that goes deep into analysis of Midway is "Shattered Sword" by Parshall and Tully. Debunks some earlier books, like Fuchida's.
  4. I'm in, too. Just finished an ebook on Midway; more like historical fiction. Good quick read. "The Silver Waterfall". Adds some good info on many of the personalities of the participants on both sides. One character featured was Jimmy Thach, the Navy fighter pilot who figured out how to survive and sometimes beat the Zero with the F4F.
  5. Jason, it's a good idea to take frequent breaks working on the size of gear. Make sure you have bright lights and maybe an Optivisor magnifier. PE can add a lot of detail, but work smart. 👍
  6. Mike, try canopy cement. It's a thick white glue and has some expansion capability. More forgiving than CA. RC folks use it to glue canopies to their builds. Dries clear, too.
  7. Jason, you might look at Tichy Train Group for phosphor bronze wire . It's a bit stiffer than brass wire, but holds it's shape. It's sold in packs of 10 or 12 8 inch pieces or 3 foot pieces. Here's the link: https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_wire/Default.aspx
  8. Nice work, OC. Take your time; this will be a jewel in your display, mate.
  9. The black powder fouled the barrel fairly quickly. Anything to moisten the buildup to remove it makes sense. One reason they resisted going to rifles as a widespread weapon, I suppose.
  10. It's essentially a gray tube behind the seeker head section with clips to slide it onto a launch rail. With an electrical contact pad to talk to the aircraft. Very reliable missile when you get to fire one.
  11. I think we were still flying some of these in the Philippines at the start of the war in the Pacific. Thanks to MacArthur's mis-management, we lost any air force we had in the first few days. Many were lost sitting on the ground.
  12. OC, the training rounds were actual AIM-9L seeker head sections, so they were dark colored, sort of a metallic gray green. The body was just gray with a blue band to mark it as training use.
  13. We had a real high tech yaw indicator on some Phantoms - a piece of parachute cord.
  14. Sanding sealer is not a finish coat. If you want a flat finish, use Dullcote or similar. If you have a porous wood, sanding sealer. might be of use.
  15. After a trip to the range, we'd take the cap lock rifles apart and put them in a bucket of hot soapy water, after pulling the plug for the percussion cap. Take the ramrod, with a cleaning jag( looked like a big Q-tip) attached and run it in and out of the barrel, siphoning the soapy water thru the hole into the barrel. A few minutes work and clean barrel. Dry it and coat the barrel inside and out with gun oil. Reattach to rifle.
  16. Be interesting to see this fully loaded out. The centerline was part tank, part bomb. The Air Force decided 1 weapon was kind of inadequate and added the 4 blivets on racks in the wing roots.
  17. Since shellac seals the wood, stain it before sealing it. The glues we use also seal the wood, so again, stain beforehand. Test your stains on spare pieces of wood to see if the results are what you expect. The basswood used in some kits stains unevenly, so you may need a conditioner before staining. Minwax makes such a product. Have fun in your build.
  18. My experience has been with caplocks, either modern designs or American Civil War. Have a repro 3 band Enfield, made as a working prop for the film "Killer Angels". Hefty weapon to lug around. Back to the dio now.
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