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Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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New to PE, need suggestion about tools to fold
Canute replied to Jsks76's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I'd second all of Mike's suggestions. The Tamiya tools are good working with the smaller parts. -
I would think if you perused some model railroad sites, you'd see paper shingles of those styles of cuts. I've seen them for structures over here. Having a little 3 dimensional effect would bring the scene up a notch.
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I'd love to see a 50s era "hook and Ladder" truck. My uncle took me on a few rides on the tiller when I was a little guy. Needed them for all the mills and factories in town.
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1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)
Canute replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Yep, there was. Those leg straps went away with the F-15 and later jets, I believe. Maybe leg flailing was no longer an issue. We had straps just above the knee and down by the ankle. They were usually laying on the floor of the cockpit, when we strapped in. I think the Thud had similar; they had to put their straps on under the g-suit and they had big D rings on the insides of their legs. I know the F-104 had strap on "spurs" near the ankle, for clipping their feet into the base of the seat. I did some practice "ejections" in pilot training. Strapped into T-33 seat attached to some almost vertical rails. The ground-crew popped a 37mm charge into the seat bottom and we were told to raise arm rests and fire the seat. Heck of a bang and we went 30 or so feet up the rails. Yahoo, a red ticket ride! -
Kurt, thanks. I'll reach out to them about doing that.
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Very cool, even has the stucco breaking up. Will you have to shingle/tile the roof portions or just paint? Medium density fiberboard, I take it?
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Kurt, thanks. I've been an enamel/lacquer sprayer and wanted to use all these acrylics. These couple of videos and one on another site on Mission Model paint have me interested in them. These 2 that Ron brought in are the first I'd seen discussing the nozzle. My old Badger 360 is in need of a major overhaul, when I saw I had a bent tip.
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Nicely done. You'd think it was a Snap-Tite kit. Fits right into your scene.
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Ron, That first video was extremely helpful with covering those 6 different acrylics. Thanks
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Shh, don't tell everybody, Popeye.
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1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)
Canute replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Ejecting at high speeds will do things like that. Wind blast, arm flail, spinal compression fractures. Not a pretty picture. Flying is a dangerous game, folks. Most newer jets have 2 sets of handles to initiate ejection sequencing. In the F-4, sitting in the trunk, I planned on ejecting using the overhead loops around takeoffs, since the stick was almost in my lap when we rotated the nose up and blocked the loop on the seat kit, between my legs. Lower handle was better at controlled bailout at our normal cruising speeds. It kept one's arms tucked in toward the legs, reducing the risk of arm flail injuries. At high speed, I'd go back to the overhead loops, because it also allowed me to pull a face screen over my helmet to kind of keep my head centered in the seat back parachute container. And I'd start saying my prayers,... -
Your pumper turned out great, Craig. Well done.
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On metals and resins, a swipe with acetone or denatured alcohol should clean most of that. I've washed resin boxcar kits in Dawn and warm water (not sealed up though) to remove mold release, plastic/resin dust and finger prints. Dry the kit, but don't touch it with bare hands after that. Rubber gloves are fine. Sometimes you may need to etch brass. Usually some kind of mild acid, such as white vinegar, does the trick. A short bath should do (5 min). Again, don't touch with your bare hands after you've cleaned it.
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1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)
Canute replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Guys who used the "silk let down" say it hurt for several days. Neck, butt, some times arms. Like Denis says, assume the proper position. -
That's a good primer and light gray should work. It's the translucent yellow. Strip and redo or try a second coat? I'd try a second coat. If its still like that, do-over time.
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Good idea for the mud. It was a wet area for the battle.
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Yes, yellows are translucent, like the tube label says (as are reds) and the primer is critical. Add another coat of yellow, taking some of the sheen off to get the next coat to stick.
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1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)
Canute replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Yeah, you could get hurt, but that was/is true of many of those seats. All depends on body position when you fire the seat. -
Nice one. Love that green. I'm in, too.
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I believe those primers are lacquers, hence the stink/odor.
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1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)
Canute replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Good old M-B seats. They work. (Not that I personally experienced them). -
Edward has it for the muddy, rutted road. Don't think they had many paved roads outside of the bigger towns. And yes, "wet" water to soak into the roadway dirt and such.
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Your farm diorama will look super with those structures, OC. And the ground foam scenery materials are easy to apply. Dilute some white glue, sprinkle the foam and ground covered. Use a blend of colors - look at your last photo.
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