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ccoyle
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ccoyle reacted to John Gummersall in Secret Vessel "Morel" by John Gummersall - FINISHED - Master Korabel - Scale 1:36
Have completed sanding and a couple coats of wipe-on poly. Hatch cover still need a little work as it got a little scraped up sliding the metal framing over the hatch. A little sanding and more wipe-on poly should do the trick,
I have also added the metal framing around the hatch cover, windows, and parts in the bow/stern.
Port Side.... Here I used the nails supplied with the kit for around the window. The nails around the oar ports where the 1.6 mm nails as the kit supplied nails are just too large.
Starboard side.... Same as on port side. Kit supplied nails around the window and 1.6mm nails around the oar ports
Stern view... Here even smaller nails were used (1.2mm) around the steering line ports and ballast port
Bow - again 1.2 mm nails used around the ballast port
Top view showing the nails around the hatch. Here the large kit supplied nails were used
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ccoyle got a reaction from yvesvidal in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Sassafras 12 by ccoyle - Chesapeake Light Craft - FINISHED - 1:1 scale canoe - you read that right
All fixed!
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ccoyle got a reaction from FriedClams in Sassafras 12 by ccoyle - Chesapeake Light Craft - FINISHED - 1:1 scale canoe - you read that right
All fixed!
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ccoyle reacted to Paul Le Wol in Cheerful 1806 by Paul Le Wol - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Co. - 1:48 - English cutter
Hello Everyone, I hope you are all well. Many many thanks to everyone for their comments and Likes. Been rigging Cheerful for a couple of weeks now. Just a few photos of the progress. Ran into a couple of glitches along the way. I forgot to install the cleats for the lower back stay tackles so like so many others I had to make a long-reach drill bit holder and an “oops I forgot the cleat” installer. The cleats I had were to big to install horizontally so they went in vertically.
I also decided to remake the entryway stanchions. They seemed to be a bit over sized. Used the same 1/16 inch tubing. Flattened the end and drilled a hole in it. Rounded it off and blackened it. Then gave them a test fit.
Then carried on with more rigging.
I ran out to the Falconet hooks that I have been using so while waiting for my order from Crafty Sailor I will start rigging the yards.
Talk to you soon
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ccoyle reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
@jdbondy
@Dziadeczek
Hello,
Thank you for the positive reaction to my post.
Thanks also to all the others for the LIKES.
Hello Thoma,
the best way to answer your question is to show you this picture.
I hope that I have answered your question in an understandable way.
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ccoyle reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
@albert
@mbp521
Hello,
thanks for your nice comments, and all the others for the many LIKES.
Continuation: Ratlines for the fore topmast shrouds - Enfléchures
In the meantime, I have started working on the port side ratlines (ø 0.25 mm) of the fore topmast shrouds. These are already about three quarters made, as can be seen in the following pictures.
On the last picture I show again how the simplified splice for binding the ratlines to the outer shrouds is made step by step. For lifting and inserting the end of the rope twice between the strands, I use an appropriately prepared cannula, as already reported and shown.
The end of the chapter -ratlines- is within reach.
To be continued ...
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ccoyle reacted to WalrusGuy in USF Confederacy 1778 by WalrusGuy - Model Shipways - 1:64
After some consideration, I decided to paint the bulwarks before drilling the holes. Reason being, the paint will clog up the holes, and I will need to pierce the holes again after painting. And I chose to paint the bulwarks in the great cabin white after seeing Werner's and Dirk's gorgeous builds.
Also, I ended up using the kit's shell pieces for the sides of the quarter gallery instead of scratch building them. They needed a lot of tweaking for it to fit well, and not to mention a lot of filler as well 😁
Shaping and gluing these pieces is probably the trickiest part of the quarter gallery construction. There are a lot of angles to work with. It's not perfect, but I am happy with the outcome.
And here are some photos of the painted bulwarks:
I will be gluing a thin veneer on the false deck at the portside of the bow since there is a large gap beneath the spirketting which is very noticeable. The starboard side has a more consistent gap throughout the entire hull. I was afraid to remove the false deck neatly, so that's why I am thinking of following this route instead.
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ccoyle reacted to WalrusGuy in USF Confederacy 1778 by WalrusGuy - Model Shipways - 1:64
The interior of the bulwarks are now planked. The foreword piece with the notches was around 1-2mm short, so I had to trim the exterior planking slightly. I found the spirketting the most challenging part of this chapter, especially at the bow. I needed to use slivers of wood beneath the plank while the glue set so that the plank was oriented with the top of the port sills correctly. Here are some photos before I start painting:
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ccoyle reacted to Daniel Filipe in Golden Hind by Daniel Filipe - Occre - 1:85
Had to paint the cannons with black color. The result is good.
I will start to plank the hull now.
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ccoyle reacted to Thukydides in HM Cutter Alert by Thukydides - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - first build
I am continuing to make progress on the planking. Not much to really say about this. I simply edge bend the planks to get the right curve then mark the side of the plank with pencil and glue it in place using super glue.
I did use the thinnest planks for this section so they don't look off on the main deck and to make sure they didn't rise above the beam at the base of the transom. For the plank directly beside the transom I made the bend match the curve of the transom and then used a piece of masking tape to make template to determine the cure I had to file on the concave side to make it fit.
I damaged a bit of the paint job on the top of the transom, I will have to touch that up later...
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ccoyle reacted to DB789 in Lady Eleanor by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Fifie
Planking was challenging (whilst still being a lot of fun). I didn't follow the kit instructions on how to plank, much to my regret and tried instead to line off and taper the planks. This proved to be too much for my beginner wood work skills and I couldn't cut the taper onto the planks with anything like the precision needed. The upwards bend at bow and stern meant that some of the planks did not sit naturally on the bulkheads (learning point for fairing next time) and in particular dried not straight around bulkhead 9 where the curve is sharper giving a slightly clinkered effect. I relied on bending the planks whilst wet and then clamping them, going forward I will try to bend them on a "jig" with an iron.
The final plank was a real challenge on each side and I ended up needing to fit it in three sections with some slivers filling gaps. The end result was much messier than I would have liked, but with liberal doses of filler and sanding I now have a flat smooth surface for the second layer of planks. So somehow got to the required outcome, but lots to improve on next time.
For the second layer of planks I am going to follow the procedure in the kit instructions to the letter.
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ccoyle got a reaction from king derelict in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
Step 18: Funnel (cont'd)
Moving forward, or backward in this instance, we come back to the funnel. The basic stack has been glued down to the hull, along with two ducts (I assume one for each of her two boilers).
Here's where it gets dicey. There's a can-load of pipes to be added. These can be built using either flat parts or optional rolled tubes. Here's the parts for the tubes. 😬
Of course, what I'll likely do is attempt the tubes and fall back on the flat parts if things don't work out to my liking. Fingers crossed!
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ccoyle got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
19: 20mm gun tubs
Step 19 is finished. Now it's back to Step 18 to continue work on the funnel.
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ccoyle got a reaction from lmagna in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from KurtH in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle reacted to DanB in Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by DanB - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Bowsprit Number 2
This one came out better and not crooked at the end. It took a while working slowly in stages with sanding sticks. I have a bit more confidence to shape the mast now. Tried out some golden oak stain on bowsprit number one , but still trying to decide weather to use stain on the spars or just leave them all natural with some wipe on poly .
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ccoyle reacted to DanB in Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by DanB - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Traveller, Tiller, Trail boards and starting bowsprit.
This was all a lot of fun and not too difficult except for the bowsprit. I had a lot of difficulty shaping the mast and spars or the Norwegian Pram. The instructions here were better, and after reading the instructions a few more times, I figured out how to use the octagonal scale in the manual. I also finally understood that the first step is to sand the rectangular shape of the part into a square. I think that is where I went wrong on the pram. I was still nervous so made a copy of the bowsprit blank and used that to practice on. The written instructions are not clear about when the spar goes from four square to octagonal. I figured it out after I looked at the plans a few more times. but had already tapered the final 1.5 inches of the bowsprit. I think I will be able to do it much better with another try tomorrow . I am going to make another copy of the bowsprit blank--- just incase😃.
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ccoyle got a reaction from oneslim in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from amateur in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from Canute in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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ccoyle got a reaction from AJohnson in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
BLASPHEMER!!
Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends.
Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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