ccoyle

Well, this was already described at this thread, just have a look:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/?p=162240
 
 
And what´s new on the model.....
I have just started with masts and rigging, I try to make all these things according to plans from Anatomy of RC and also follow books and other credible information to achieve more realistic result.
 
The bowsprit:
 




 
The ropes are handmade using the ropewalk. I use ropes by Corel or Amati...

Few updates:
 

I've hit a bit of a hitch. As I was nearing the end of doing the deck ( I swear I've lived in bedrooms with less floor space), I kept on ignoring the obvious, with the endlessly optimistic  "of course they have provided enough wood". After trying to contact Billings all week with no response to emails, I've ordered what I hope will match what is already laid

A little more progress - all yards mounted. just a few more lines left like braces,anchors,flags,& a few misc.items.note the hooks & rings on the lower end of the mizzen lateen yard - I think this is correct.That light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter...........
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark

UPDATED JULY 2024
Only a few tools needed to get started in card modeling.  At the very least, you need a cutting tool and some glue.  Everything else is optional.
 
Here are some basic tools:

 
You'll need a self-healing cutting mat, available from most office supply or crafts stores.  Next, you need something to cut with. Most card modelers do not use scissors.  A garden-variety craft knife does the job nicely and with more precision. Some card modelers use scalpels. Get a good supply of #11 blades -- card can be surprisingly hard on them.  A steel rule is a must, not just for measuring, but more importantly for cutting straight lines.
 
Glue is, of course, essential.  A variety of glues will work. Each has its own merits and drawbacks.  PVA glue, either white (e.g., Elmer's) or yellow (wood glue) are good general purpose glues. Lately I have grown fond of Evergreen's Canopy Glue, which is a PVA-type glue that grabs quickly and dries fast. Bear in mind that PVA glues are water-based, and card can absorb the glue and deform. PVA is therefore not a good choice for gluing large surfaces together.
 
Cyanoacrylate glue, or CA ('Super Glue'), has its uses.  Fast-cure CA can be wicked into card stock to stiffen it. Medium-cure CA is useful for gluing parts made of different media together, as well as for paper-to-paper bonds.
 
Contact cement (not to be confused with rubber cement) is a non-water-based glue and thus good for gluing large surfaces together. Contact cement sets rapidly, so repositioning of parts once they come in contact with each other is not possible.
 
Now, on to some optional items.
 

 
From left to right:
     blackened, annealed wire - an assortment of diameters is useful for making gun barrels, railings, etc.      styrene rod - card can be rolled into tubes, but styrene is often a better choice      assorted paint brushes - for painting and as aids for rolling tubes      tweezers      paint, marking pens, or other media for coloring cut edges (more on this later)      calipers - for measuring card stock thickness, especially when laminating sheets together      hobby pliers (not pictured) - for cutting and forming wire (end nippers, needle nose, round nose)  
Some other useful items to have are thin, flexible, clear acetate sheets (for glazing windows), matte clear spray varnish (for prepping parts sheets), and 3M spray adhesive (for laminating card and/or paper sheets together).  3M costs more than other brands, but take my advice, it's worth the money.  Cheaper brands don't coat as evenly and produce clumpier spray patterns.  Trust me -- I learned this the hard way.
 
I'll add other items if I remember them. Now, go get your supplies and let's build a model!
 
Back to Part III: Shopping for Card Models     On to Part V: Building V108 - The Hull

Thanks J. David, I used a foredom way back in the day at the jewelry bench. I remember the foot pedal being very easy to control.
 
Here's a hatch cover on the deck house. Still to go are raised panels for the doors. Thanks for looking.
 
Steve

Well, after some time since my last update, I have a couple photos of the current status of the superstructure and After Air Defense Stations to show the progress I'm slowly making on the model. Once again, the assemblies are simply put in place, nothing permanent at this point:

 


Comment - Some of you more astute battleship nuts may notice the modification to the After Air Defense Station Tub - the bumpout on the side was unique to NEW JERSEY, added during her 1967-68 refit. I'm currently working on the two Target Designators which will be loc'd on either side of the MK. 37 director base inside the tub. I have two of those TD's also loc'd on the 08 Level Conn Station and they are just barely visible in the lower photo. These are not the Mk. 1 TD's that were used on the IOWA's from WWII - Korea.

I've started tryiing to make resin radar dishes for the Mk. 25 and Mk. 35 radars that are associated with the Mk. 37/Mk. 56 F.C. Directors - this (resin molds/casting) is something new to me and will be a learning curve, for sure! The Mk. 56 directors will also be scratch built (possibly molded, don't know at this point).
 
Hank

**Groan**  I swear, if MSW had a keel, you'd be being hauled under it right now! 

**Groan**  I swear, if MSW had a keel, you'd be being hauled under it right now! 

Completed the fore deck fixtures.
 
I assembled the fore deck companionway, painted the vent pipe and made the wire guard, painted the anchor, made two more bollards, made the davit from the wire of a paper clip, installed handles (used 28 gage wire) on the winch bits and then painted it, and made another mast coat for the fore mast similar to the one made for the main mast.
 
 

 
The positions of all these pieces were located on the fore deck from the plans and the appropriate size holes were drilled in the deck.  All the parts were then glued in place.  Note that there is another eye bolt that appears to be needed near the fore fife rail that is not mentioned in the practicum until later in the rigging chapters.
 
 

 
 
According to the Chuck’s practicum I am now officially half way complete with my ship.  
I must admit I do feel a sense of accomplished in the progress I've made to this point.  I've enjoyed each task preformed so far, although some less than others.  Coppering the hull is pretty far down on the list.  I would also like to take this time to thank Mr. Chuck Passaro for his excellent practicum.  If it wasn't for his guidance through his practicum I would have never been able to complete all this.  It’s always easier to enhance things that someone has already designed.  I hope that the second half of this build goes as well (knock on wood) as the first.  With Chuck’s guide I’m sure it will.  Since I’m thanking people; I would like to thank everyone for their words of encouragement and help and for all the ‘likes’ so far.
 
 

Hi Again Folks... It's Photo Time Again.
 
The wee doghouse is almost finished, just a little tidying up to be done, oh and attach the doors of course (not forgetting the various handles too)
The rope hand rail ring (where it attaches to the sides of the doghouse will be painted black.. they were painted black to begin with but it seems to have rubbed off in the fitting process !!
The steps are glued in place but no other deck fitting is permanently in place as yet (I threw in a close up photo of the 'L' shaped Anchor Rope reinforcing brackets on the forward hatch coaming)
 
By The Way I had one of those slow motion 'NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO' moments earlier as I was gluing the roof arrangement onto the Doghouse.. Clamps were being used to secure the whole affair when suddenly a clamp slipped causing the near total collapse of the doghouse.. there were doghouse sides, sliding roofs, rope hand rails & coamings flying through the air just like Cirque du Soleil !! How I kept my cool I'll never know ^_^ I just calmly reassembled the whole thing.. very Zen moment
 
Stay Well Folks
 
Eamonn a.k.a. Mr. Keep Calm & Carry On..

**Groan**  I swear, if MSW had a keel, you'd be being hauled under it right now! 

Looks good, David!  There has been some commendable improvement in your card modeling skill set.
 
Cheers!

That's my goal for every model I start, too.  I don't always reach it -- but I keep trying!

Here are the final photos
 





David B

The lower masts are made and the top masts and topgallant masts are carved out.  The ship looks really good with the lower and top masts mounted, although nothing is glued so the alignments are not perfect.  I took some photos and am ready to glue the lower masts and start rigging them.  I’m still not sure if I like the look of the wooldings on the fore mast but not on the main mast.  If the gaff is mounted with parrels, does it mean that the main sail was not brailed?  Anyway, all rigging will have to wait until after the WC final.

This will be my summer project, as I believe I mentioned in my Sherbourne log. Rather a change from the cutter I have been working on, I’m sure you will agree – well, for a start, there aren’t any guns! But why this particular ship, and why a half-hull, you may well ask? Well, read on, but first a bit of history…
 
The ’Statsraad Lehmkuhl’ was built as a steel barque for the German Schoolship Association and launched at Bremerhaven-Geestemunde in January 1914. She was originally named ’Grossherzog Friedrich August’, after the then Duke of Oldenburg, and used to train merchant navy cadets. Taken as reparations by the British after the First World War, she was then sold to Norway in 1921 and renamed ’Statsraad Lehmkuhl’, after the minister Kristoffer Lehmkuhl (Statsraad meaning cabinet minister), who had worked in the interests of sail training. She was put into service in 1923 as a sail training ship for Bergens Skoleskib and used as such until the Second World War, when was taken over by Nazi Germany and given the name ’Westwärts’. Following hostilities she reverted to her previous ownership and name, and was put back into service following renovation. She continued to sail until 1966, when she was laid up due to financial difficulties, until in 1978 she was bought by shipowner Hilmar Reksten, who donated her to the Statsraad Lehmkuhl Foundation. She is based in Bergen. (She will be referred to as SL hereafter.)
 
Today the organisation welcomes ’trainees’ of all ages and nationalities to sail on board, and she is also used by schools, and employees in corporate business. In 2000 German naval cadets trained on board whilst the ’Gorch Foch’ was being refitted, and since 2002 she has been officially used for training cadets of the Royal Norwegian Navy. Her voyages have taken her across the Atlantic to America several times, and she is a frequent participant in the Tall Ships Races. Under sail she has frequently reached a speed of 17 knots and, on at least one occasion, 18 knots was recorded. Her website contains further details, both about her and her training programme.
 
Although I have referred, colloquially, to SL as a ’ship’ she is of course, and always has been, rigged as a barque – square rigged on the fore and main masts, fore-and-aft rigged on the mizzen. By convention, the barque as originally conceived had three masts and reference to their number was not normally made.
 
There are four main reasons for my building this half model:
 
1) I had spent three weeks aboard the barque in the June/July of 1988, sailing from Bergen, Norway (where she is based) to South Shields in the UK, back to Bergen and thence to Leith, Scotland. I had originally booked for two weeks on board and had intended to return to the UK from Bergen by ferry. However, following my cruise, the SL was due to sail to Leith to pick up a Norwegian girl’s choir that had been appearing at the Edinburgh Festival. Thus, courtesy of the captain, I was able to spend another week aboard the ship – at no extra charge.
 
2/ On board I met the Swedish girl who was later to become my wife. Therefore the model is largely being made for her.
 
3/ This year, 2014, marks SL’s centenary. The late Harold Underhill thought her to be perhaps being the most beautiful of the barques of that time, and I tend to agree. Even at 100 years old, I think she is still better looking (from any angle) than some later vessels.
 
4) Half-hulls are interesting in themselves historically for, although they are now largely used for decorative purposes, they were originally used as part of the building process of an actual ship.
 
 
Approximate Dimensions:
 
The ship: Hull length, 277.’ (84.60 metres); Sparred length, 321’ (98 meters); Beam - 41’ (12.60 metres); Draught -17’ (5.20 metres); Gross tonnage - 1516 tonnes; Height mainmast: 157.48' (48 metres); Sails: 22; Sail area: 2062 m2.
 
The model: Hull length - 36” (91.44 cm) Sparred length - 40” (101.6 cm); ’Half-beam’ - 2 ¾” (6.98 cm); Draught – 2” (5.08 cm); Gross tonnage – 0!
 
The model will be built using plans drawn up for the ’Grossherzogin Friedrich August’, by the late Harold Underhill – the Lines and Profile, drawn to a scale of 1/8th” to 1’ – which will make the model of a good size to admit of some detail. Even though the plans are for the ship under her original name, the deck layout and other details have not been altered a great deal and any changes that have been made appear to be minimal – such as the positioning of boats, alteration to the figurehead, etc. How much detail I will include, I have not yet decided, but there will of course only be stump masts.
 
As mentioned this will be a summer project (for the approximately four months we are here at our cottage) and I intend to store her here over the winter, suitably protected of course, and continue working on her next year – and probably the year after that!  At a suitable stage she will be moved to the flat in town, where a spot has already been designated for her, atop a long bookcase. Unfortunately, there are plenty of other jobs to take me away from the project, but I hope to be able work on her whenever I can – so watch this space! In the meantime here is a link to one or two photos of her:
 
https://www.google.se/search?q=statsraad+lehmkuhl+%2B+photos&client=firefox-a&hs=rRS&rls=org.mozilla:sv-SE:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=sCbEU5T3Goe9ygO-8YDYDA&ved=0CCIQsAQ&biw=1065&bih=509#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=uMfSHUqYE4cyxM%253A%3B9Ix4jWbc9xIczM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Feuroclippers.typepad.fr%252Fphotos%252Funcategorized%252F2008%252F11%252F10%252Fstatsraad_lehmkuhl_mudie_1.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Feuroclippers.typepad.fr%252Fuk%252F2008%252F11%252Ffinancial-cri-1.html%3B500%3B768

That’s how the deck is looking now.
 

 
Making a buoy was especially time and nerve consuming. Mine looks much battered, so I like to explain that this item is one of the original pieces of equipment of HMC Sherbourne I in 1763 and has seen 23 years of service, improbable as this may seem…
 

 
It was rather difficult to make pictures outside today, but I absolutely wanted to share my first look of a “complete” cutter – without the rigging lines, of course.
 

 
Many details need to be prepared before assembling. I think I will follow Kester’s log to do that.
 

 
One of the small details will be a proper fiddle block. This one was made from a 5mm and a 3mm single block glued together, not perfect. I wonder whether it would be better to simply lash two blocks together, an alternative proposed by Wolfram zu Mondfeld, but one that I can’t find on NMM’s models. 
 

 
The brown things taped to the mast are the mast rings, which I made from brass wire, soldered and filed into shape. As there will be no sails, they should at least lie properly, and I thought paper rings too light.
I have to admit I’m quite pleased with the model that is standing for the first time complete with it’s impressive spars. This will give me the necessary boost for all the other small things that are to be prepared before anything can be glued on definitively.
Cheers,
Gregor

Worked on the transom: eagle added along with name and moulding strips.  
It took me a while to realize that adding the name was not a matter of painting it on by hand, but is easily done with a little magic done with a printer, the correct font choice and some scissors.  ;-)   
 

 
~John
 

I'm thinking those probably have more value as collector's items than as actual projects.  Are you sure you want to build them??

and here are the rest

Thanks Scott.
 
Rainy weather has cut down golf time and increased modeling time. As a result, I have made and installed the quarterdeck pin rails and also have done the quarterdeck hances and related moldings.
 
The pin rails are boxwood and were pinned and glued to the bulwarks. For the hances, I used the laser cut kit parts for the sculpted curved portion, but cut off the additional laser cut "molding" portion and replaced it with half round molding. The kit parts were nicely done, but very fragile, and it just seemed easier to use a less fragile alternative.
 
Now, I will do the cap rails for the bulwarks and transom.
 
Bob
 
 

David,
 
HMV is the firm you are thinking of.

Cheers,
 
I have contemplated to a 32nd scale Royal Caroline in the past - would make a great model...
 
Today, the Roman Quinquereme was delivered to the couriers in Gloucester, to be shipped to Italy - our home is once again free of any models!
 
I did design two versions, one for the Republican period (which is how the model is displayed), and an Imperial version (Augustan).
 
I had to design quite a substantial display base for it, as the oars make the width half a metre!

A busy weekend has proved fruitful. I went forward with adding the whales, outboard planksheer and rudder. The copper has been coated with Testors Dullcoat Varnish (spray). I like the dull matt finish it created. The whole thing is starting to come together rather nicely. I am really pleased with the fortunate mirror-image from starboard to port... not at all like my first build!  A little careful measuring makes the difference.  
 

 

 
Now to work on the stern with some details. 
 
~john