toms10
-
Posts
897 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by toms10
-
First, thanks everyone for their help ful comments and likes and a special thanks to Jim (Bluto 1790) for all the insights on some of the rigging issues he is currently going through and that will be part of my somewhat near future. Decided to get started on some of the mast work. Nothing is glued yet, just dry fitting as much as possible right now. Probably start on the top masts and fitting them to the existing masts and add the railings to the tops. Tops still need rear railings. Still need to figure out what blocks need to be attached to the underside of the tops. Easier to do that now instead of after they are set in position. Still have some work left on the bow sprit. Tom
-
You are correct about the plans and rigging book. Sounds like I will be doing the same with adding cleats and pins all over the place. The good thing is there really is no right or wrong way to rig the lines as long as the are orderly and make sense. Adding the cleats to the masts was a good idea I had not thought of. Tom
-
Well done Jim. I am definitely going to use your log photos to help guide me through my rigging. You must be getting excited, you are definitely entering the home stretch. The proverbial light at the end of the tunnel is starting to flicker. Tom
-
Hi Jim “That vertical 'stick' above the martingale isn't the bowsprit flagstaff, it's just a cocktail stick inserted where the flagstaff will eventually live.” Cocktails are very important. Oh, I meant cocktail sticks. 🍸😁. Nice job on the bow rigging and anchors. Your model is turning out quite nicely. Tom
-
Hi Grandpa Phil yes I agree. I decided to put it on as per the plans. Tom
-
Thanks Vince. I was finally able to get on the website and check it out. Definitely worth a bookmark. Maybe Christmas present ideas.😉 Tom
-
I noticed there are 3 volumes of The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship by Steel. Are they all very different or is there a lot of duplicate information between the volumes? I can't get on the San Francisco Maritime website to check out what they have on-line. It seems to be down right now. Tom
-
Hi Frankie. I too will be putting it in as per the plans. Thanks for the input. Your model looks good. Dave, thanks for the link. I will definitely make use of this. Tom
-
Hi Dave thanks for the reply. I could not find this info in my book. I have Elements of Mastmaking Sailmaking and Rigging. I did see a reference to a fore stay sail for a 20 gun ship in the sailmaking section on page 82, plate XVI. is there another Steel book? I also can’t locate any tables with rope sizes. It does have block information. Sounds like Ike there might be another book I might need to add to the library. Tom
-
Hello out there. I am working on the HMS Leopard and I am starting to work on the bow sprit area. I was looking ahead a bit at the standing and running rigging to see how it works together with bow sprit, Jin and flying jib. My question concerns the stay sails, particularly the fore stay sail. The plans show it but all the reference material I have seen makes no mention of it except Lennarth Peterson’s Rigging Period Ship Models (pg 87). I am trying to follow Steele’s Elements of Mast Making and Rigging, Mondfeld’s Historic Ship Models and Harland’s Seamanship in the Age of Sail but none of them make mention of it. I was only able to find 3 sails (fore topmast, inner and outer jibs). I have very detailed pictures of this model that was built by Larissa Rumtant of the Ukraine. It won the world championships so I am thinking it must be a pretty good representation. In her model it was not present. Other than my plans, it shows up nowhere. Do I too omit it or follow the plans? The plans are from Winfield’s 50 Gun Ship. Below is a copy of the plans I have been doodling on. The sail in question is outlined in red. Any clarification would be appreciated. My gut is to follow the plan. Thanks Tom
-
Jim The repair looks fantastic. Thanks for the heads up on the belaying pins. I am starting to study these and other rigging plans for the bow sprit as I am thinking that will be the next section I will be working on. Lot of stuff going on in a small area. Your model is really looking good with the evolving rigging. Tom
-
Hi Jim my take away from this is always wear a short sleeve short when modeling. 😜. Hang in there, we have all broken a thing or two even on purpose sometimes. Hopefully you don’t end up with too much to redo. You are not ready to abandon ship yet. It is coming along very fine. Tom
-
Thanks Mark. That is kind of what I thought since I did not find any definitive info. I guess any way that keeps the boat put is the right way in this case. Tom
-
Hi all I am looking for info on how the cutters were secured or lashed to the skid beams. Right now they are sitting in small cradles. I was going to put some eye hooks on the beams on both sides of each boat and just run a rope from the eye, over the boat and then down to the eye on the other side. I would do this both fore and aft for each boat. Any possible solutions would be appreciated. thanks Tom
-
Thanks Jim. I am in Philadelphia this weekend visiting my daughter so nothing going on in the shipyard now. Gotta admit though that spending the weekend here with her is more fun. 😁. Next week I will make the oars, secure the skid beams and then lash down the boats. Then I will take a look at tapering the stem as mentioned above. Tom
-
Hi Allan thank you for bringing it up. I have never seen anything anywhere regarding a taper but it makes sense. It does not seem to be too late to do something. That’s why they make files and sand paper😁. If I can’t fix it, bow legged women it is! 😜. Thanks again. Tom
-
Little change of pace. Decided to work on long boats ... a long one and a short one.😁. They still need oarlocks and some eye bolts for lifting and strapping down to the skid beams which are only dry fit at this point. My goal was to have this done in time to display at the April conference in New London, CT next year... not at the pace I’m going! Weather is too nice. Going to need more rainy days. 😜 Tom.
-
Building Board
toms10 replied to shortgrass's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Shortgrass, Take a look at some of the pics in my build log for the Leopard. I just use 4 small blocks screwed to a piece of board. On the blocks is a pool noodle that I cut off 4 pieces about 2 -3 inches long and then sliced them down one side the long way. Placed these on top of the blocks and the boat nestles in quite nicely. After a while the foam starts to take the shape of the hull which holds it even better. You can get fancy with adjustable blocks for different widths but it really isn't necessary if you are going to be working on a single model for a while. The whole thing costs less than $5 using scrap wood I already had. Tom -
Hi Jim, It must have been quite an adventure tying those blocks. Creative vocabulary would have been used if it was me! At least it is behind you. She is coming along very nicely. Tom
-
Hi Jim, Are you sure about the number of knots? I think you might have miscounted. You should count them again. 😉 Looks great. Bummer about the bumpkin but it looks like a great fix. Nobody will be the wiser. Tom
-
Hi Gary, Thank you for the answer. That never even crossed my mind. I guess my inexperience is showing through. Always learning in this hobby which is one of the reasons why it is so interesting. Tom
-
Can someone tell me what the function of this piece is? It looks like it might be used to help with the longboats. It is hung off the outside edge of the midship channel. There is a hook on one end and slides into a hole on a bracket that is attached to the channel. At the aft side of the same channel there is another bracket that the pole just seems to “snap” into. So it is definitely meant to be taken on and off. I made one for each side as per the plans but don’t really know why. 😳 Tom
-
Jim progress looks great. I feel your pain regarding wiring on something for a while only to have it break near the end. Hope you hit the lottery so you can hire someone to finish up the rat lines. You will probably need most of the lottery winnings to pay the person. I am sure they don’t come cheap!😁 Tom
-
Definitely agree with used Starrett for E-Bay. I work in the tool making industry and it is the "go to" brand for tools. I have bought the cheap ones and you get exactly what you pay for. I bought my existing pin vises as a used Starrett set from E-Bay and don't regret it for a second. Tom
-
Thanks Meddo and Kurt. I will have to look into this. Tom
Our Emblem ®
